I broke one
of my own unwritten rules yesterday, the rule being not to have drink at
lunchtime. As I’ve explained before, there’s a good reason for me not having
even a single pint, primarily because it makes me feel sleepy during the
afternoon.
Yesterday
was going to be different though, and in some ways it was as, although I didn’t
nod off at my desk when I returned from my lunchtime pint, the pub visit itself
was not the experience I’d been expecting.
The
Greyhound at Charcott was a rather obvious choice, being just over 10 minutes’
walk away from my workplace. Its situation in a tiny rural hamlet, just a short
distance off the beaten track, is a major attraction, and in addition there is
normally a good selection of beers available.
So far, so
good, and as I turned the corner into
Charcott, I noticed there were several
groups of people sitting out in the garden, which is to the left of the pub.
There was also a lone cyclist sat on a bench, directly outside.
It’s a
couple of months since I last set foot in the Greyhound, although if I want to
be pedantic, it’s much longer than that, because on my previous visit in late
June, the pub was operating table service only. As I sat outside in the garden, I had no need
to enter the pub, but this time was going to be different – or was it?
The front
door was open, as is the case during a normal summer, so I stepped inside and
approached the bar. There were four clips on the bank of hand-pumps, which
caught my attention and whilst I was waiting for someone to come and serve me,
I weighed up in my mind as to which beer to plump for.
Although
fan of both Old Dairy and the ever reliable, and “must stock” Larkin’s
Traditional, the 3.9% West Coast Pale from Three Acre Brewery caught my eye, so
when the young man appeared behind the bar, I was all ready to order myself a pint. He asked, “Can I help you?” to which I replied that I only wanted a
drink, and the Three Acre beer was the one I was after.
My face
dropped when he informed me that I couldn’t stand at the bar, or even pay for
my drink there, as the pub was operating on a
table-service only basis. He
would bring my drink over to me once I was seated. Somewhat taken aback, I said
I would be out in the garden, and headed off outside, but not before telling him
which beer I was after.
That
instruction was primarily to save time, as I only get an hour for lunch and
didn’t want to be hanging around outside waiting for someone to come and take
my order. Several minutes later, the barman appeared, carrying a tray full of
drinks – one of which was mine. As he placed the glass on the table, he
enthused that this West Coast Pale was a good one. The beer had only just gone
on sale, and my pint was the first one he’d pulled through.
That latter
comment was sufficient to set alarm bells ringing, as without wanting to appear
picky, or indeed obsessive, the beer in the glass certainly had that “just
pulled through look” about it. The haziness seems missing from the photo, and
the colour too was much more of a straw-coloured yellow, but more than anything
it was the taste that was disappointing.
“Dry” would
be the best description, and I didn’t really notice the citrus flavours that
were listed as an attribute on
Untappd. The beer was quite drinkable, and
perhaps I am just being over-fussy, but as my first pint of cask since
returning from holiday, it didn’t exactly inspire me.
What was
more frustrating was the length of time it took me to make payment for my
drink. The barman had said that he’d set me up a tab, even though I’d told him,
whilst inside the pub, that I would only be staying for a quick drink. I
explained that I was on my lunch-break and needed to be back at work by 2pm, but
despite this, no one came out to collect my payment. It was shades of drinking in Germany
all over again, and that frustrating experience when all the waiting staff
disappear, just as you are wanting to drink up and go!
Eventually
a young girl appeared to take orders from two groups of people who’d recently
arrived. I collared her on her way back inside, pressing a five-pound note on
her whilst explaining me need to leave shortly all over again, but after taking
the cash, she failed to reappear with my change. Just as I was about to leave,
the barman appeared with my change, although I was quite prepared to depart without
it.
So, a frustrating,
annoying, and totally unnecessary experience, as by refusing me service and
payment at the bar, what should have been a speedy and perfectly normal transaction turned
into a complete farce!
It also
significantly reduces the chance of me making future lunchtime visits to the
Greyhound, which is a shame really, as when I look back just a couple of years
ago, it was the sort of pub where one could stand at the bar and engage the
locals in conversation and the odd bit of banter.
I’m wondering
where the
“old boys” whom one could almost rely on
encountering there, have gone to? I mentioned bumping into one such character,
a month or so ago in the
Rock, at
Chiddingstone Hoath, but, being
a 15-minute drive away from work, it's not ideal for a lunch-time drink. I could, I suppose, always call in on
my way home, but it's not the same as arriving there on foot.
More to the
point though, is why the Greyhound has continued sticking with table service
when for casual visitors like me, plus the much missed local “old boys”, it
obviously isn’t working? Having to pay waiting staff, just to deliver drinks to
customers, can’t make economic sense, and whilst I can understand a reluctance
to drop all restrictions immediately (I wrote about this in relation to the
Star at Matfield, back in July), it is now a full two months since rules about
standing and ordering from the bar were relaxed.
The pub
seems to be majoring on food, and bills itself as a
“Gastro-pub.” This is fine
and may even be necessary in order to survive in an isolated rural situation,
but to ignore the regulars who liked to congregate at the bar, whilst at the
same time discouraging casual drinkers, isn’t perhaps the wisest of courses.
A good pub
is one that caters for all sectors, and all types of visitors, so it is hard to
see why a pub that prides itself on the range and the quality of the cask ales
it serves, should choose to alienate the casual drinker and dedicated beer
lover.
Footnote: I
feel quite bad writing those last two paragraphs, especially as I have watched
licensees Fran and Richard rescue the Greyhound from closure, re-open it following
a complete revamp and makeover that enhanced its overall character, and then build it up into one of the best pubs in
the locality.
The couple
have put their hearts and souls into the pub, which is their home as well as
their business, so why take notice of me, a casual and occasional visitor, rather
than a dedicated regular. Isn’t it rather churlish of me to criticise,
particularly as there might be perfectly valid reasons for staying with the
table-service only approach?
In my defence,
I am only reporting what I found and using it to illustrate what I see as the
downside to table service. It works on the continent, and it worked as we
started to come out of the pandemic, but I’m not convinced that it’s the future
for the traditional English pub.