Lewes - renewing my acquaintance with two classic pubs, and experiencing two unfamiliar ones

Right, we’ve covered the travel details, we’ve admired the pretty pictures as well, so now it’s time to take a look at the four Lewes pubs that I visited last Friday afternoon. Having worked in the town for a three-year period, I know the town quite well, and even though the time I spent there was over 30 years ago, I still retain much affection for the Sussex county town. During those three years, I visited a fair number of Lewes’s many pubs, but it’s important to remember that I was based in the town for business reasons, rather than ones of pleasure, and whilst there were no real restrictions against the occasional lunchtime pint, it wasn’t something that I indulged in that often.

There were two reasons for this, one of which was shortage of cash, whist the other was one of road safety. I wasn’t terribly well-off back in 1992. I’d recently become a father, and with Mrs PBT’s swapping the workplace for domesticity, we’d changed from a reasonably well-off, two wage-earning household, to one that was having to rely on just the one wage. Furthermore, my travel costs had increased significantly, changing from a short car journey of around 5 miles to a return, cross-country drive of just under 60 miles. Quite a difference, especially when it came to putting fuel in the tank, and an added expense I had to be aware of. This is where the road safety bit comes in, as that 30-mile journey to and from work each day, meant keeping my wits about me behind the wheel, so any lunchtimes drinking, if it occurred, had to be kept to a minimum.

Despite these restraints, I still manage the odd lunchtime pint, although most likely my regular walks into Lewes, served a different purpose, because two or three times a week, I would call in at the Harvey’s Shop, in Cliffe High Street, to fill up my 4-pint, carry-keg with draught beer. Cask, of course, and not always Best Bitter either, because the shop normally had a cask of whichever seasonal brew was on sale at the time, so XXXX Old Ale in winter, Porter for January-February time, Tom Paine in July, and Armada Ale most of the time, as an alternative to the Best. I was a regular customer at the shop, and always addressed properly as Mister Bailey, and never as Paul.

My walks into town took me along South Street, a quiet side street these days, following the construction of the Cuilfail Tunnel. Opened in 1980, the tunnel allows the busy A26 to bypass Lewes to the east of the town, thereby removing much of the through traffic that used to clog the narrow streets of the county town. Close to the northern end of the tunnel, is the Snowdrop Inn, a welcoming and friendly free house, nestling under the cliffs on the outskirts of Lewes.  Offering a range of beers from local Sussex breweries, the pub has quite a quirky feel to it, a feature I recall from the time when I worked in the town. Seeing as that was 30+ years ago, I decided to check out the Snowdrop, to see whether anything had changed at the pub.

My choice of the Snowdrop was in line with the plan that I hatched earlier, of avoiding some of Lewes’s better-known pubs, in favour of some that I was less familiar with. It was quiet as I walked along South Street, and when I eventually reached the pub, it did seem as though little had changed. There was a handful of people, scattered around the bar, plus a large, husky type dog, splayed out in front of the side entrance. I noticed Harvey’s Old on sale, but to begin with I opted for a coffee. My rather rushed train journey from Tonbridge (see previous article), had left little time for non-alcoholic refreshment, and I was missing my mid-morning caffeine fix, so a flat white, prior to the XXXX Old, was just the thing to set me up for the day.

Both drinks were good, and also very welcome, as I positioned myself at a table that gave me a good look at the proceedings. Several customers had ordered, and the food I saw being brought out, looked very good. I noticed on the pub website, that the pub has an additional, upstairs seating area, a facility I’d completely forgotten about. Eileen’s niece and her husband, who live in nearby Uckfield, have a fondness for the Snowdrop, so I must let them know about my visit.  That aside, it was good to renew my acquaintance with this welcoming, but slightly offbeat pub, so I’m pleased to have made the effort to call in.

Departing the Snowdrop and managing to get out of the door without stepping on the hound, I retraced my steps, back towards the Cliffe area of Lewes, for the next pub on my list. For many years, the Dorset was the nearest Harvey’s pub to the brewery, and whilst that distinction has now passed to the John Harvey Tavern, the former still gives the impression of its position in the local pecking order, reinforced by it being the home of the Cliffe Bonfire Society - the largest of the Lewes bonfire societies.   

The Dorset was refurbished in 2006, which is probably why the interior looked completely different, from what I remember. There are several drinking and dining areas, a large patio affording views back towards the brewery, plus six reasonably priced en-suite bedrooms. There are at least four Harvey’s ales on hand-pump, plus an extensive menu featuring traditional home-cooked dishes along with a seafood menu, using freshly caught fish from nearby Newhaven. 

There were two pleasant and helpful girls working behind the bar and looking after customers’ food requirements. With the time and place being just right, I ordered a bowl pf potato and leek soup, served with thick-cut, crusty bread. It was the perfect accompaniment to the excellent Old Ale. As with the previous pub there was a good mix of customers, that included an extended family in the room on the other side of the bar. The Dorset was definitely worth visiting, even though there was little that I recognised from three decades ago.

It was quite a hike up to pub No.3, and this was an establishment I wasn’t 100 percent sure about. Situated in Lewes High Street, at the top of School Hill, and a short distance from the town’s famous law courts, the "Rights of Man" takes its name from American revolutionary, Thomas Paine’s best known works. Paine lived in Lewes for a while, and to commemorate this fact, Harvey’s produce a strong pale ale in his honour, which is a available in cask form on and around the 4^th July.  

United States Independence Day, of course, so
the wrong time of year for cask Tom Paine to be available but made up for by some rather good Armada Ale. The latter is available all year round, but in my experience isn’t seen on the bar as often as it should be. I said that I wasn’t sure about the Rights of Man, and CAMRA’s local pub pages for Lewes, have since confirmed that the pub only opened under this name, in 2012.  

Conclusion, this was definitely my first visit to this bar, which extends back a fair way, as if it is making up for the rather narrow frontage. The style of décor at the pub is of cosy old-fashioned booths, etched glass and wood panelling, all adding to the rather upmarket feel of the place. The toilets are at the top of a rather steep staircase that isn’t that easy to navigate after a few beers. It is worth persevering in summer though, as there is an external roof terrace, that is almost hidden away. After that hike up from the River Ouse, it was another route march to the fourth and final pub of the day, and this time it wasn’t a Harvey’s pub. 

It was further to the Pelham Arms than I thought, although not quite as far as the Black Horse – a pub which back in the day, offered rather basic bed & breakfast accommodation. Eric and I discovered this on our South Downs Way hike, after traipsing along the banks of the River Ouse, in the pouring rain. I digress, although I must have walked past the Pelham on several past occasions, but never recognised the Pelham as a Hall & Woodhouse pub. 

It’s a large, white painted building, dating back to 1640, with plenty of original oak beams, an inglenook fireplace, plus a courtyard garden, and is full of age-old charm. The pub was the original home of the Abyss microbrewery which was housed in the pub's cellar but has now moved to larger premises elsewhere in the town. 

This leaves Badger Tanglefoot and Fursty Ferret, as the offerings for cask devotees, and I’m pleased to report that, after the bar manager pulled the line through for me, the Tanglefoot was in first class condition. As I said earlier, I must have walked passed the Pelham on a number of occasions, without noticing the owning brewery – I must be slipping, as I am normally aware of such things, so I’m assuming the pub is a fairly recent addition to the Badger stable. It’s certainly unusual to find an H&W pub this far east, and away from the brewery's Dorset home, but it’s well worth taking the trouble to visit.

The Pelham has a good reputation for its food, and even has its own smokery – get, you! It’s a bit of a hike up from the town centre, but there are regular buses, which include the No. 29 Brighton & Hove service, that operates between Brighton and Tunbridge Wells on a half-hourly basis (hourly on Sundays). There wasn’t time for me to linger though, so I made my way back along the High Street, before turning right into Station Road, and the train home. 

As reported in the previous post about Lewes, my homeward journey passed surprisingly smoothly, even if it did involve an additional change of train at Gatwick. It still took two hours which, when you consider that until 1969, there was a direct rail service between Tonbridge and Brighton (via Lewes), is proof that things have gone backwards in this country. Vested interests, corrupt politicians and a general lack of joined up thinking, have a lot to answer for, but that’s another story.  

 

 

 

 

The beer gods have been smiling, recently

Before I continue the narrative that I began a few days ago, about my recent trip to Lewes, I’d like to highlight a few unexpected beer moments. By that I mean those occasions when you weren't expecting anything special from the beer, and then, quite out of the blue, it surprises you, transforming an ordinary experience into an exceptional one, and rewarding you with something that restores your faith in the brewers art. Exceptional is probably too strong a word, but when you come across something good that you weren't expecting, then it’s well worth shouting it from the rooftops. There has been three such events recently, including the one I’m about to write about, so let’s get stuck in to that one, before moving onto the other two.

The first event occurred last Thursday, when I visited the Humphrey Bean, which is the Wetherspoons outlet in Tonbridge. My decision to stop there was primarily due to time constraints, that arose after spending too much time attending to matters at home. The morning had started badly, as Eileen wasn’t required at her part time Thursday morning job until 10 am, which is 30 minutes later than usual. Seeing as I act as her chauffeur, that half hour delay impacted my schedule as well. My chauffeuring duties continue later in the day, as I also have to collect the lady of the house, from her workplace, so as you can see, there’s not a lot of time, withing that morning-early afternoon window.

Undeterred, I headed down into Tonbridge on foot, in order to pick up some shopping. On the way, I gave some thought to where I could get a quick lunch. Greggs seemed the obvious choice, and with the Humphrey Bean, virtually next door, my liquid refreshment requirements could be met as well. 

It was Spoons before Greggs, and the Bean seemed surprisingly busy for a Thursday lunch time. I'm no expert on this, of course, but with the majority of the middle tables, and the ones directly in front of the bar, occupied, there wasn’t much in the way of spare space. Fortunately, there were two vacant, small tables on the raised area, immediately in front of the window, but before grabbing one, I took a quick wander along the bar, to see what was on offer. This was despite the efforts of an overzealous barman, who seemed determined to rush me.

It didn’t take me long to settle on TEA (Traditional English Ale) from Hog’s Back Brewery. This long-established independent brewer has been turning out top-notch beers from its Manor Farm
base, just outside the Surrey village of Tongham, since 1991. The brewery takes its name from the nearby Hogs Back, a ridge of hills that looks just like a hog lying down. In medieval times, the Hogs Back was a route used by pilgrims and traders between Farnham and Guildford but now it is less glamorously known as the A31! Hogs Back beers were a quite familiar sight in this part of West Kent a decade or so ago, but given the competition from more recent and more localised startups, it's been quite a while since I last saw any  of the Tongham brewed beers on sale.  

Without hesitation I ordered a pint and was pleasantly surprised by the advertised price of just £1.49! Wow, how can they make any money on that? Still, that’s Tim's problem not mine, and whilst the thought crossed my mind that they were selling the beer off cheap to get shot of it that didn't seem to be the case. Instead, I’m pleased to report that the TEA was on top form, and I awarded that pint a well-deserved 4.0 on Untappd. There was only time for one pint, and a further disappointment was in store, when I arrived at Greggs, just after half one. To my intense annoyance, I discovered that all the pasties had been sold, so I had to make do with a steak bake – a poor substitute for a pasty, if ever there was one.

Surprise No.2 came the following day, during my visit to Lewes – see previous post. I won’t spoil too much of the story, but I’d chosen a Harvey’s pub called the Dorset, at the top end of Cliffe High Street. As you will learn, once I get to writing up the article, I hadn’t been in this particular pub for some considerable time, which was a pity, as it certainly exceeded my expectations. I enjoyed a spot of lunch there, but even more enjoyable was the pint of Harvey’s XXXX Old Ale. 

 This rich, dark, seasonal ale was in first class condition, so much so that I enjoyed every last drop. I scored it at 4.5 on Untappd, but with hind sight, it was worthy of an even higher score, possibly even an exalted 5.0. I wasn’t the only one to have thought so highly of the Dorset and its beers because in the comments section of that particular post, West Midlands legend, Stafford Paul, recorded that in his opinion the Dorset, was the best of Harvey’s Lewes pubs.

The third, and final, top-class beer associated with last weekend, was a can of Ouse Booze, that I acquired from Harvey’s excellent shop, in Cliffe High Street - after I had returned all those empties. Ouse Booze was originally brewed to commemorate, if that's the right word, the devastating flood that hit the centre of Lewes, 15 years ago, on 12^th October 2000. When the waters of the river Ouse inundated the brewery, staff were in the middle of brewing. Several days later, after the floodwaters had receded, the brew was rescued, combined with several other partially completed gyles, and left to ferment, prior to being bottled and sold for charity.  To reflect what had happened, the beer was named Ouse Booze. 

Twenty-five years later, a replica of this brew was produced using the same traditional methods, with malt and hops sourced from the original growers. The resulting beer was a smooth, full-bodied brew, with a gentle sweetness and notable fruit and hop character. Brewed to an abv of 6.5%, this beer is a real standout, and its availability in cans was an added bonus. I really enjoyed the one I brought back with me from Lewes and was left wishing that I should have purchased a few more. 

So, there we have it, three stand-out beers, all of them different, and all of them representing the pinnacle of the brewer’s art. As for that devastating flood, the entire brewery yard at Harvey's has been enclosed by a substantial brick wall which, in theory, should keep the majority of flood water out, if the River Ouse should decide to rise by that amount again.

 

 

Lewes on a mission

 

Friday’s trip to the charming Sussex town of Lewes, saw me notching up a further four pubs, taking my total for the first month of the year to 20. If I can keep this rate up over the next 11 months, then I should quite easily pass last year’s total of 106 different hostelries. Despite this flying start, I’m not really in the numbers game, as if I was, then I’m sure I could squeezed in a few more pubs. 

My reasons for travelling to Lewes were two-fold, and despite my protestations of innocence, Mrs PBT’s quite easily saw through my non-too cunning plan. That plan was to return  twenty or so, empty beer bottles to that jewel in the brewing crown, Harvey’s of Lewes. These bottles had accumulated over the past 18 months or, and were taking up space in the garden shed, Admittedly, not a massive amount of space, but I still wanted to return them to the brewery and do my bit for the environment. More to the point, a trip down to Harvey’s would provide the perfect opportunity to visit a few of Lewes’s charming pubs, as well as being an enjoyable day out, with a welcome change of scenery.

With three shopping bags full of these rather sturdy returnable bottles, waiting by the back door, it was just a matter of time before the lady of the house noticed them. “You’re not going to lug all those bottles down to the station?” she asked. “Why not”, I replied, but then, after thinking about it some more, I had to agree that my wife was right (she quite often is!) She suggested waiting, until we were going down that way, by car, but if I was to agree with that, the reasoning behind my trip to the town, would be lost. I compromised, by taking just two bags, which was the far more sensible approach, although I didn’t tell her, so!

I set off for the station, with the intention of taking the 10am train, but as with my trip to Hastings, a couple of weeks earlier, it was a question of history being doomed to repeat itself. I had allowed sufficient time for the walk, and for purchasing my ticket, but what I hadn’t allowed for was being caught by a former neighbour, who ambushed me as I strolled passed the local newsagents. My protestations about not stopping, as I had a train to catch, seemed to fall on deaf ears, and by the time I’d managed to extricate myself, I was in serious danger of missing my train. (What is it with well-meaning neighbours, with far too much time on their hands?

As things turned out, I missed the Redhill train by the same margin as a couple of weeks ago, but only because the three-coach Southern train was parked at the far end of platform one, due to a twelve coach South-Eastern service, seemingly abandoned, and taking up most of the available space. I heard the departure announcement, and tried legging it along the platform, but it wasn't easy with two bags of bottles hampering my efforts to put a spurt on. Unfortunately, the Southern driver ignored my arm waving and impassioned pleas for him to wait, and the train departed dead on the dot of 10am.

I seemed doomed, and what was worse was the alternative option of the Hastings train, was just pulling in on platform 3. This meant a hurried sprint, back along platform 1, up the stairs and then back down. Fortunately, I managed to hop on in time, although it was a close-run thing. Who says this pub-ticking lark doesn’t keep you fit? So, once again it was a journey along the 1066 Line, if the successors to British Rail still call it that, with a change of train, and platform at St Leonards. This is a slightly strange journey, because for a while the route follows the coast, and the pebble beaches of Bexhill and Pevensey, before heading into Eastbourne, where the imposing heights of the South Downs rise ominously to the left of one’s vision. The service then reverses back out of Eastbourne, before heading off in a north-westerly direction towards Polegate and Lewes.

This visit to the Sussex County Town, was going to be different, because I would be avoiding the familiar honeypots of the Gardeners, the Lewes Arms, the John Harvey Tavern and several other hostelries, for a selection of the lesser visited, but no less worthy of Lewes’s pubs, places that I either hadn’t visited before – quite difficult after working in the town, for three years, during the early 90’s, establishments I hadn’t been back to, since that time. But first there was the question of those empty beer bottles to deal with.

I arrived in Lewes, shortly before
midday, relieved to have left the rather crowded train behind me. I walked up, across the bridge towards the Landsdown Arms, a corner pub that also titles itself as Platform 6, due to its proximity to the rail station. Continuing along Landsdown Place, I eventually reached the area of town known as Friars’ Walk. On the way, I couldn’t help but notice the independent shops and businesses whose number increased, the closer to the town centre that I reached. Over several visits to Lewes, during recent years, I’ve come away with the impression that the town has a real independent streak, running through its heart, and by the later comment I feel that nonconformity is the name of the game, but without any of the religious baggage associated with that term.

I’m reminded of several other UK towns that have a similar feel to them, places such as Hebden Bridge, and Totness, even though it is many years since I last visited either settlement – note to self, I must rectify those anomalies, sooner rather than later. However, it was whilst sitting in  a pub, in the Cliffe area of Lewes that I was reminded of the “free spirit” vibe associated in the town that manifests itself, every November 5^th that encapsulates the town, even if the events commemorated on that day do have a religious significance – “We wunt be druv,” as the official motto of the county of Sussex so succinctly puts it!

Arriving at Harvey’s attractive and well-stocked brewery shop, the first thing I did was to hand over my stash of bottles, which was gratefully received by the counter staff. Whilst there, I couldn’t resist picking up a couple of new Harvey’s beers, although as they were both in canned form, they wouldn’t need returning to Lewes, to be recycled. And then for the pubs – four of them, and each with their own individual stories to tell. As a clue, all but the final one were Harvey’s tied houses, and the one that wasn’t, forms the lone outpost of a brewery a couple of counties to the west, of Sussex.

I’m afraid their story will have to wait until next time, in order to do them justice, but what I will mention instead is that after the dramas of missed connections, and which route to opt for, my homeward journey passed surprisingly smoothly, even if it did involve an additional change of train. After being advised by booking office staff, at Lewes station, I joined the 15:35 service to London Victoria. With no connection to Redhill, I had to hop off at Gatwick and join a Thameslink train. Arriving at Redhill, the conveniently timed service to Tonbridge was waiting to depart from the adjacent platform, enabling me to make a virtually seamless connection. Now, if only my outward journey had been that simple!

Pre-loading in Tunbridge Wells, prior to dinner with the directors

I was in Tunbridge Wells on Friday night, for what can best described as a “Works Do.”  Technically, it was a meal out with a group of directors from our Japanese parent company, who had flown over for a board meeting. This visit is an annual event, although this time it was beefed up by the presence of the group president, in what was his first visit to our company. The dinner took place to wrap up the two-day visit, and as a member of the senior management team, I was invited to join the group for an evening meal. 

This was despite Friday being a “non-working day” for me. It might come across as a little mercenary of me to show up for a “free meal”, but there were some genuine reasons for me to attend, not least of which was the opportunity to meet up with those Japanese visitors who I knew from previous visits to the UK. These visits were rather more than fleeting business trips, because it is head office policy to second one of their employees to come and work as a “researcher” at our company, normally for an extended three period of three or more years. Providing they can manage being away from their home country for that length of time, it’s an ideal position to be offered, because the chosen individual will be allowed to bring their spouse over with them, along with any children they might have. They are able to choose a suitable flat, or apartment, which will be provided at a nominal rent, for the duration of their stay. 

They are also given a car, to enable them to drive into work and back, each day. The final perk is the hours they are required to work, as whilst they are in line with our normal working times, they are invariably considerably less than the insanely long attendance times that are common in Japan. Two former “interns”, were amongst Friday’s group, and they have done pretty well for themselves, with both appointed as company directors for the UK business. 

 

 It was therefore good to catch up with them, that evening, at a rather nice  Mediterranean restaurant called, Rocca,  situated at the bottom end of Tunbridge Wells High Street. I didn’t carry out a headcount, but our combined groups occupied a couple of tables, on the first floor of this imposing building. The food was top notch, and the company equally good. The beer wasn’t really up to much, but that was to be expected, and the couple of pints of Estrella Damm I consumed were still a good match for the rich and spicy Mediterranean food.

Prior to meeting up with the joint UK-Japanese group, I took the opportunity to call in at a couple of local pubs, located in the Pantiles area of the town. The outlet I want to make special mention of is the Mad Dog Brewery Taproom, which opened recently, in the premises formerly occupied by the Pantiles Tap.

I wrote about this impending overcharge in November last year, but having now has the chance of visiting the place I can report that the Tap is ticking over nicely. Located partially underground in the old cellar/kitchen of what was the first pub on the Pantiles, the Tap’s interior provides a stylish yet relaxed atmosphere, with a rustic wooden décor, and communal tables that encourages visitors to linger over a pint or two.

I had an informative chat with the friendly and knowledgeable girl behind the bar, who has been at the pub since it reopened under its new owners. She told me that whilst things were understandably quiet in mid-January, they had enjoyed a good Christmas that was preceded by an equally good December. The pub needed quite a bit of work, following the departure of the previous owners, and one thing the new management were determined about, was not to let the clutter that had accumulated, to build up again. This was a reference to, but not a criticism of, the previous owners. I didn’t count the number of beers on sale, but Mad Dog produce a range of 14 vegan-friendly and preservative free beers, with five of them being gluten free, as well.

I said to the bar manager, that I found it strange to be opening a pub that is so remote from Mad Dog’s Cardiff home, but she told me that the brewery owner lives relatively close to Tunbridge Wells, and with a further outlet in Brighton, plus one in Cheltenham, perhaps this is part of a gradual expansion strategy. I couldn’t stay too long, although I did explain I was a lapsed CAMRA member who still kept in touch with the local branch. She mentioned one, well-known character, who lives nearby, although I won't embarrass him by revealing his name. As with the previous owners, no cask is available at the Tap, but that could change in the future.

Before saying goodbye, I enjoyed a glass of Mad Dog’s oatmeal stout which, despite its daft name – Stouty McStout Face, was rather good. So, the Tap is well worth a visit, next time you are in the area, and whilst no cask is currently available, what is on sale still provides a welcome addition to the local drinking scene. Guests can expect a rotating selection of seasonal specials and experimental brews exclusive to the taproom, so watch this space. Final note on this post, I also called in at the Fuller's-owned, Duke of York which, although not full to capacity, wasn't far off it. This was followed by a very swift half, at the Ragged Trousers, which seemed popular that evening with "loved-up" couples, and their canine companions.