Faversham re-visited, Pt 1

Stepping off the train at Faversham station last Friday, a minute or two after midday, brought back quite a few memories. The four-platform station is more extensive than I remember but not untypical of other stations further along the line, at places such as Margate and Ramsgate. I ascended the steps, crossed the road and right in front of me was the Railway Hotel, an imposing and attractive red brick late, Victorian public house. Like many pubs in this pleasant north Kent town, the Railway is owned by Shepherd Neame, who are Britain’s oldest brewery – see below.

I left the Railway for that final, pre return train pint and carried on towards the town centre, where I was making for two classic Shepherd Neame pubs that I remembered from previous visits. On the way, down I passed an attractive looking boozer, called the Limes. I also bookmarked that one for later as well, and carried on  Faversham retains a remarkably intact historic core, with a well preserved medieval and Georgian townscape, with parts dating back to Saxon times. In 811AD, a royal charter established Faversham as an important Saxon estate., and then in 1147–48, Faversham Abbey was founded by King Stephen and Queen Matilda. The abbey became the town’s dominant institution for nearly 400 years until its dissolution in 1538.

Local tradition holds that the abbey’s monks recognised the quality of Faversham’s spring water for brewing. This tradition continued, and in 1698 Shepherd Neame was founded. Today Shep’s are Britain’s oldest brewer and are still operating in the town centre. From the 16th century, Faversham became one of Britain’s earliest centres of gunpowder production. Its mills supplied explosives for military and industrial use until the early 20th century. A catastrophic explosion in 1916 killed over 100 workers and marked the industry’s decline. The historic feel to the town centre, is evidenced by the many half-timbered buildings, overlooking narrow streets, and winding little alleyways. The fact that much of the traffic has been diverted away from the town centre, makes walking around Faversham a pleasure rather than an experience to be wary of, but what about the pubs that I visited?

First on the list was the Bear Inn, situated in the town’s Market Place, and one of the oldest pubs in Faversham. Stepping in through the front door, visitors can either continue straight ahead, through an internal door or, do as I did and turn directly right through another door. The former option leads to two further bars, both leading off the corridor, whilst the latter opens straight into what can best be described as a “snug” bar. With bare wooden floors, wooden seating and walls decorated with various Shepherd Neame Brewery artefacts, and beer dispensed from an ancient bank of beer engines perched on the counter, this really was like stepping back in time.

Apart from me, the only other customer in the bar was a middle-aged lady perched on a bar stool, absorbed in reading the local newspaper.  She had a dog with her, but apart from that she wasn't at all chatty. I too, decided that silence was the best policy, so instead just enjoyed sitting there soaking up the atmosphere of this lovely old pub. Unfortunately, I later discovered that the Bear offered the reasonably priced food options that I spent much of the next couple of hours, looking for! Oh well, you can’t win them all, and it kind of serves me right for not doing my homework, thoroughly
enough.

I didn't have far to go to the second pub, but before stepping inside, the Sun Inn, I took a stroll along into West Street where there was a small market going on. There were some interesting items for sale, although as none appealed to me that much, I adjourned to the historic Sun Inn, an attractive and multi-roomed 14^th century pub, sited in the town’s conservation area. 

The Sun is brimming with a number of intriguing original features, including several inglenook fireplaces, oak beams plus a lovely courtyard garden, that is accessed from the middle bar. As well as being popular with local diners, the pub has eight characterful bedrooms providing stylish accommodation. Shepherd Neame beers again, although as with the Bear, the Master Brew Bitter was at least quite quaffable.

I was feeling peckish by this time, so after leaving the Sun I headed off in a westerly direction towards the quayside, at Faversham Creek. On the way I called in at Crusts, a local bakery offering filled rolls and, according to the shop sign, so much more. The rolls did indeed appear tempting, but not as tempting as the Cornish Pasty I ordered, direct from the hot cabinet. It provided the solid sustenance I was craving, so I sat out on a bench opposite the shop, enjoying this ideal, lunchtime snack. The sun too, was shining by this time, which was a welcome change from the rain that had followed me eastwards, across the county, all the way from Tonbridge.                    

To be continued.................................................................................................

 

Preamble to an enjoyable day out in Faversham

As mentioned in my previous article, I spent much of Friday enjoying a day out in the lovely and easy‑going town of Faversham. It’s not the simplest place to reach by rail from Tonbridge: two changes are required, the first at Paddock Wood, from where an interesting journey unfolds. This is where the line follows the sinuous course of the river Medway for a good stretch, offering glimpses of water, marsh, and industry as the train heads towards Rochester.

The second change takes place at Strood, an important junction where the Medway Valley line meets the main route from London Victoria to the Kent Coast. There I transferred onto a fast‑moving Javelin train for the final leg to Faversham. The train raced through the linked Medway towns - Rochester, Chatham, Gillingham, before continuing past Teynham and Sittingbourne and then finally rolling into Faversham itself.

This corner of Kent isn’t one I know particularly well, and the same is true of Faversham.  Whilst I have made several previous visits, the last of these was in 2017, and was only a brief one, as part of the Maidstone CAMRA’s annual Good Friday ramble. On that occasion we walked out to the atmospheric and unspoilt Shipwright's Arms at Conyer, one of the many small creeks that lie just inland from the Medway and the Swale - the channel separating Sheppey from
mainland Kent.

I had hoped to revisit the Shipwright's on Friday, but Google Maps informed me that Conyer was a 45‑minute walk from central Faversham. A 90‑minute round trip was more time than I could sensibly spare, so I reluctantly shelved the idea for another day and instead devoted the next four hours to exploring Faversham itself.

That decision proved wise, as I visited four classic pubs in the town, plus one relatively new outlet. Although I’d hesitate to call this latter establishment a micro-pub, it still turned out to be a real surprise, and in some respects the best discovery of the day, even if not quite the best pub overall. Three of the others were Shepherd Neame houses, and the final one was a CAMRA‑approved gem that I remember fondly from visits 15 to 20 years ago.

If I have one gripe about the day, it’s the increasingly widespread absence of simple, affordable, foldable food in many pubs. This seems to be a particular issue in this part of the country. Not everyone wants a full sit‑down meal, yet the Midlands and the North manage perfectly well with filled rolls, referred to as Cobbs - which provide a tasty, satisfying, and entirely manageable snack. It seems baffling that Kent and the rest of the south-east can’t follow suit.

 

Hitting the magic ton!

It’s taken nine and a half months of wandering, planning, and occasionally sheer opportunism, but I’ve finally struck gold. Yes, the magic ton has been hit. For those who don’t follow my particular brand of eccentric ticking, that means I’ve now visited one hundred unique pubs so far in 2026.  By unique, I mean pubs I’ve set foot in once and once only this calendar year. Plenty of hostelries have seen me more than once - some far more than once, but for the purposes of this annual tally, each pub only counts the first time I cross the threshold. 

Then, come 1^st January, the clock resets and the whole glorious chase begins again. It’s a slightly crazy challenge, but it keeps me exploring, keeps me curious, and occasionally gets me into places I’d never otherwise have discovered. Hitting the magic ton is definitely a proper milestone, and after nine and a half months of steady ticking, strategic detours, and the occasional “well, since I’m here anyway…” pint, I’ve finally done it. One hundred unique pubs in 2026. That’s not just dedication; that’s craft, discipline, and a touch of glorious obsession.

Now, while a hundred pubs might seem impressive to me- and it certainly is, I’m well aware that in the wider world of pub enthusiasts, it barely raises an eyebrow. Some of the seasoned wanderers whose online ramblings I follow, regularly clock up that total every two or three months. That’s dedication of a different order entirely, but it’s also the product of a particular stage of life. Most of them have long since left the world of work behind, enjoying the freedom that retirement brings. A few are simply very wealthy — though I can’t really claim to know anyone in that category.

For me, though, this year’s tally has been fun precisely because it’s taken me to pubs, that I’d never normally have thought of visiting. The challenge has pushed me out of familiar territory and into new villages, new towns, and new corners of Kent and Sussex, as well as the odd town, further afield. It’s broadened my horizons pint by pint. So, where next? With two and a half months still to go until the end of the year, there’s plenty of time to keep exploring. I could take things easy now I’ve reached the ton… but where’s the fun in that? There are still dozens of pubs within striking distance that I’ve never set foot in, and the map is full of tempting gaps. The chase continues - just at a slightly more relaxed pace.

There’s one detail I’ve conveniently omitted so far: not all of those hundred pubs were in the UK. The vast majority were, of course, but seven of them were in Norway - visited during our cruise, back in March, as we sailed up the Norwegian coast, beyond the Arctic Circle and back again. Add to that a single hostelry in the Irish Republic, in the very pleasant town of Cobh (the port for Cork), and the tally becomes a little more cosmopolitan.

I’m not entirely sure whether these foreign pubs count under whatever “official rules” might exist for pub‑ticking, but frankly, I’m saying they do. A pub is a pub, whether it’s perched overlooking a fjord or tucked into a colourful Irish harbour town. And besides, it would feel wrong to leave them out when they were such memorable stops.

As for the hundredth pub - the one that finally tipped me over into triple figures, it turned out to be the Imperial at Southborough. You’ll find it just down the hill as you drive along the A26 towards Tunbridge Wells. It’s a pleasant, well‑kept pub, divided internally into several distinct areas that aren’t quite separate rooms but give the place a comfortable, compartmentalised feel. I’ve known it on and off over the years, but it now stands as one of only two pubs remaining in that long, linear settlement that can’t quite decide whether it belongs to Tonbridge or Tunbridge Wells.

Not a bad place at all then, to mark the magic ton, especially as it was a totally unexpected place to end my quest. And now, with the ton finally chalked up, I can enjoy the rest of the year at a slightly more relaxed pace… or I can see how far beyond a hundred I can push things before New Year’s Eve. 

Favesham - definitely may be

I appreciate that it’s still mid-week, but I thought I’d spring this idea on you, especially as it will be the weekend, before we know it. I’m planning a day out in the attractive, north Kent town of Faversham, a location that despite a couple of changes, is easily accessible by rail. Furthermore, with the aid of my old git’s railcard, is a relatively inexpensive train ride away.

It’s probably a couple of decades since I last visited the town, and so today, I spent part of my lunch-break at work, planning out an itinerary. I also asked my friend Copilot for a few suggestions, and I’m pleased to report that AI’s recommendations were a pretty close match to my own. So, without further ado, this is what AI came up with.

A Faversham pub‑crawl is one of the best ideas you could have in Kent — compact town centre, proper heritage pubs, and of course the gravitational pull of Shepherd Neame, Britain’s oldest brewery. Based on the fresh local data above, here’s a structured, pub‑ticking‑friendly plan that plays to your interests: Victorian interiors, real ale, and places with character.

Top picks - shortlist

1. Bear Inn - central, historic, very well‑kept ales, strong reviews.

2. Sun Inn - 14th‑century coaching inn, atmospheric, reliable beer.

3. Elephant  -  independent, lively, good beer range beyond Shepherd Neame.

4. Phoenix Tavern  - beamed, old‑world, refined food, cosy.

5. Anchor Inn - rustic, food‑led, locally sourced produce.

A practical pub‑ticking route that is easily walkable

Bear Inn (Market Place)

A cracking place to start - central, handsome frontage, and one of the best‑rated pubs in town (4.5★, 551 reviews). Good for a first pint while you get your bearings. Beer: Shepherd Neame classics in excellent condition.

Sun Inn (West Street)

Only a minute’s walk away. A 14th‑century inn with beams, nooks, and a proper old coaching‑house feel. Beer: Again Shepherd Neame, but the setting makes it worthwhile.

Elephant (The Mall)

Independent, friendly, and with a more varied beer selection — often local or guest ales. A nice change of pace after two SN houses. Atmosphere: Lively, community‑minded, very well reviewed .

Phoenix Tavern (Abbey Street)

A beautiful old building with bare brick, beams, and an inglenook fireplace. More of a dining pub, but still a lovely stop for a quieter pint. Beer: Shepherd Neame, but the setting elevates it.

Anchor Inn (Abbey Street)

A short stroll further up Abbey Street. Rustic, food‑led, and attached to its own farm. Beer: Not the widest range, but the pub is worth seeing.

To finish this short article, here's a link to a post I wrote about Faversham, which dates from April 2017. This was almost certainly the date of my last visit to the town, so Friday's proposed trip, is long overdue.

 

 

Beware of Danes bearing gold!

The decision by Danish brewing giant Carlsberg to close the historic Marston’s brewery in Burton-on-Trent next summer, though long anticipated, still feels driven by profit and corporate greed.

Carlsberg cited the familiar reason of a steep and sustained decline in cask ale consumption across the UK. Data shows that by the mid-2020s, cask ale volumes in Britain had more than halved in less than a decade, with consumption continuing to fall year on year. The multinational claimed this collapse made it increasingly difficult to justify running large traditional ale breweries like Marston’s, presenting this harsh reality as the main reason behind the closure.

For me, this is a deeply poignant and sad moment. Marston's brewery in Burton-on-Trent was the first brewery I ever visited back in the mid-1970s as a student. That tour sparked my lasting interest in beer and brewing, so to see this splendid old Victorian era brewery vanish into rubble is particularly galling, even if it reflects the times we live in.

Carlsberg’s involvement with Marston’s came after a series of takeovers, and Marston's should have known better than to align with such a ruthless and predatory company. Before targeting Marston’s, Carlsberg had already closed the 150-year-old Banks brewery in Wolverhampton, citing similar market pressures and transferring production to Burton. Observers should have seen this earlier closure as a sign of further consolidation and Carlsberg’s ruthless readiness to dispose of historic ale sites.

The so-called strategic portfolio shift is somewhat of a joke, as Carlsberg aims to focus on growth categories and streamline operations, prioritising brands like Hobgoblin, McEwan’s, and Brooklyn as worthy of continued support. (McEwans anyone? And Brooklyn – that’s American, keg pish, surely?) Other cask and regional ales are to be sold to specialists or local owners—though there aren’t many left—making this corporate rhetoric from Copenhagen seem rather hollow. It signals a move away from maintaining large-scale traditional ale production facilities, and more Danegeld in the parent company’s coffers!

 

An update on the local pub scene, in West Kent (and beyond)

Blogging has taken a bit of a back seat for a while, as I deal with the seemingly complex issues regarding my future financial position. These seem to revolve around Pension Consolidation and Pension Drawdown. Having now done much of the groundwork, there does now seem to be some light at the end of the tunnel, so with any luck I shall soon be able to set a firm date for my retirement.

In tandem with this I’ve been sorting out various areas of both house and garden, with the aim of making life easier, post-retirement. So, I’ve been sorting out various unwanted kitchen gadgets, tools and garden stuff (enough plastic flowerpots to start our own garden centre). There’s also the now, thankfully shrinking, mountain of household paperwork that I’ve slowly been feeding into the large, office-sized, shredder that we’ve got at work.

Clothes are another target area destined for the charity shop, although the main clear-out, especially of “office-type” outfits will have to wait until I retire. The garden is also in line for a makeover, as I gradually convert our “little oasis of green” to the most low-maintenance plot I can come up with, although here it’s going to be a case of “no pain, no gain.”  Basically, I'm looking for a garden that almost looks after itself, so that I don't have to!

However, I haven’t given up completely on beer and pubs, and locally, there’s quite a lot going on at the moment, and we kick off with the Cross Keys. The latter is a large pub, in a prominent position on the edge of Southborough, that has stood empty for over a year, but after being acquired by new owners, is undergoing a refit plus a good spruce up.  The pub is due to reopen following refurbishment with a "fresh identity" and will trade as the Boundary Bar & Grill. This will be under the ownership of two experienced business partners, one of whom also runs the Imperial, (also in Southborough).

Moving a little further along the A26, we come to the former Shuffle House, in the St John’s area of Tunbridge Wells. The pub has been renamed as the Duck & Goose, but back in its Shuffle House guise, it acted as the venue for my firm’s Christmas party. The shuffle tables remain as a feature of the Duck & Goose, and from the photos on the pub’s website, the interior appears as little changed, so why the change of name? 

I also came across shuffle tables at the Mola Bar in the Norwegian town of Alesund, which we visited back in March, when the settlement was the first port of call on the cruise that took us beyond the Arctic Circle. Shuffleboards take up a lot of space, but can provide a spot of measures excitement, providing there’s sufficient room in the pub, or bar.

Moving on to a slightly more rural location, we come to the Fleur de Lys, in the centre of Leigh, a former estate village between Hildenborough and Chiddingstone. The Fleur has been undergoing a major refit for the past nine months or more, and with progress remaining painfully slow, there are still no signs yet of a definitive opening date. The Fleur is reportedly owned by a wealthy, crypto-currency trader, who bought and restored the nearby Hall Place, a grade II -listed, 19^th century, stately pile, complete with its own well laid out and extensive grounds. 

The story I picked up on locally (don’t forget I work in the neighbouring village of Chiddingstone Causeway), was that the monied new owner of Hale Place also bought the pub, because he thought it important that a village like Leigh, should have its own pub. A philosophy I’m sure many people would agree with, so why the delay in re-opening the Fleur?

Heading out towards Sussex now, in a south-westerly direction, we come to the Brown Trout, sited close to the village of Lamberhurst, and close to Bewl Water. The latter is a large reservoir which opened back in the 1970's.  Following a period of closure, during which the pub was extensively refurbished by our old friends, Stonegate Inns, we find the pub-co seeking a new licensee to run it. This means there are hopes of the pub reopening soon. The Brown Trout is a pub that I’ve only been in a couple of times, as it’s a little tucked away, so it will be good to call in though, when it does eventually reopen.

Travelling in the more or less opposite direction, brings us to the former Whitbread Hop Farm at Beltring, where a converted, former oast house, on the edge of the farm, has been bought from former owners, Whitbread, for an undisclosed sum. Still trading under its former name of Brooker’s Oast, this former Beefeater outlet, which had been due to close following the winding up of the steakhouse chain, by owners, Whitbread, remains open for business. The pub is now owned by an outfit called, Queensway Inns, whose other two pubs are located down in Cornwall, making this a slightly strange purchase. As one observer has pointed out, the establishment appears to be operating much as before, so if you want a steakhouse-type meal, this is the place to come.

On the borders between West Kent and Surrey, and standing proudly on Westerham's village green for more than seven centuries, is the Grasshopper on the Green, a remarkable survivor amongst English pubs. Over the course of its long history, the Grasshopper has seen 31 monarchs and 74 Prime Ministers come and go and yet the warmth of its welcome remains unchanged. The pub now has new owners, in the guise of Mike & Nicola Vigar, who were loyal customers for 25 years before taking over the reins. Compared to the grandeur of Westerham’s other two pubs, the Kings Head and the George & Dragon, the much smaller Grasshopper, is cosier and much more people sized, making it the establishment that gets my vote as the “best in Westerham.”

This brings us to the penultimate pub in the area, facing a new future, which is the former Spread Eagle, in the Hawkenbury area of Tunbridge Wells.  Until recently, the site of the pub had been earmarked for redevelopment, but in a turn up for the books, this attractive looking pub has now been listed by Stonegate, as available for a fixed term tenancy with food-led potential.

The final pub is not actually in the West Kent area, but I couldn’t close this article on re-opening public houses without mentioning the Elephant & Castle in Lewes. Readers may recall me going looking for this pub, on a recent visit to Lewes, only to find it, unexpectedly closed. Now, according to the Brighton Argus, this Harvey’s-tied house is due to reopen at the end of this month, under the stewardship of new landlord Max Aben, with local couple, Liz Temperley and Pat Mundy, running the food offering, under the banner of their already successful, Pat's Pizza operation. Unfortunately, this will necessitate me making what will be my third trip to Lewes this year, although it will allow me to “mop up” a number of other pubs that I’ve missed on recent visits to the East Sussex, county town. It’s a hard life!!