Brewing themselves out of business

Before we finish with Faversham, there’s one last area I want to talk about, and it’s one that is particularly relevant to the recent brewery closure announcement that has come from Danish brewing giant, Carlsberg. If you haven’t been sleeping these past few weeks, you will be aware that the brewer of what many would regard as “the worst lager in the world”, are looking to close the historic Marston’s Brewery, in Burton-on-Trent. The closure is scheduled to take place next summer with the Danes citing falling demand for cask beer, within the UK market.

Faversham represents a much smaller version of Burton, although the same principles apply. Fortunately, Shepherd Neame, who are the UK’s oldest surviving brewery, continue to brew in the town, even though I have to say their beers are not my favourite. Thirty-five years ago, there was about another brewery in Faversham, literally just across the road from Shepherd Neame’s Court Street premises. This substantial enterprise was the former home of George Beer & Rigden Ltd whose beers were marketed throughout the county, under the well-known “Kent’s Best" branding.

Few drinkers today, will have heard of the company, although they may well remember the company who bought them out.  This was Maidstone-based, Fremlin’s Ltd, whose “Elephant Brand Ales” were a familiar sight to Kentish drinkers. Up until the last quarter of the 20^th century, Fremlin’s were also the largest brewery in Kent, particularly in terms of number of pubs owned – roughly 700 pubs, at their peak, but in 1967, Whitbread acquired a controlling interest in the company. Five years later, in 1972, brewing operations at Maidstone ceased, and whilst the site continued as a distribution centre, all production was moved to Faversham.

Brewing continued at Court Street until 1990, when production ceased, but I can remember a couple of visits to the brewery, as part of a local CAMRA party, back in the 1980’s. The facility was very much alive and kicking back then, turning out Fremlin’s Bitter (marketed initially as Trophy Bitter, before the Fremlin’s name was re-instated). For a while, during that period, a stronger, and full-bodied bitter, called Tusker, was produced, the beer being named after Fremlin’s famous elephant mascot.

I was intrigued, and delighted last week, to discover that most of the Court Street Brewery buildings are still standing, and deservedly so, as they represent an attractive group of late Victorian industrial buildings, and whilst most have been re-purposed for a variety of other purposes, they form a reminder of what was once one of Kent’s largest brewery companies. 

One of the buildings is now home to a large Tesco Superstore, and I’m kicking myself now for not venturing inside, for a quick look. The truth was I was running on a tight time schedule, having promised Mrs PBT’s that I’d be back in time for tea. (That didn’t work, due to a couple of late running trains, and I’m still not sure whether she believed me!) However, this error on my part, doesn’t preclude a return visit, and the "trouble & strife" can accompany next time, having expressed an interest in this over-sized Tesco.

Now I've gone a little off-piste here, but what I am really trying to convey is the sheer physical scale of breweries such as Beer & Rigden at Faversham, which itself reflects on the volume of beer produced a century or so ago. The same was true of Fremlin's in Maidstone, whose brewery occupied a substantial site in the heart of the county town, overlooking the river Medway. These sites were not just collections of buildings; they were industrial complexes, dominating their local landscapes and providing employment for generations.

Going back a little further, Maidstone was once home to another brewing giant. The premises of Style & Winch stood close to the river and were every bit as imposing as Fremlin's. Following the takeover by London brewers Barclay Perkins, brewing continued at Maidstone for many years, surviving even after the formation of Courage & Barclay. I can just about remember the brewery in operation. During a visit to Maidstone with a school friend, we ventured into the Seven Grays, a now long-demolished riverside pub that stood close to the brewery. It was a Courage house, notable at the time for serving cask beer, something of a rarity within the Courage estate. Today, the entire area has vanished beneath road improvements and a new bridge across the Medway, leaving little trace of the brewing industry that once dominated this part of town.

The point, though, is not simply one of nostalgia. Looking at old photographs of breweries such as Beer & Rigden, Fremlin's, or Style & Winch, one cannot help but wonder just how much beer these vast establishments were capable of producing. Their footprints covered acres, with brewhouses, maltings, cooperages, stores and bottling plants stretching across town-centre sites that would be almost unthinkable today. The same logic applies when considering famous brewing centres such as Burton upon Trent. Burton's success left it with an enormous concentration of brewing capacity, much of it built to satisfy levels of demand that no longer exist. Beer consumption in Britain has fallen dramatically over the past half-century, leaving the industry with far more production capacity than the modern market requires.

Whilst hard figures are often difficult to come by, this surplus capacity goes some way towards explaining why historic sites have continued to close. Marston's decision to cease brewing at its historic Shobnall Road brewery is one example. Yet the major brewers hardly helped themselves during the 1970s and 1980s, when they invested heavily in a new generation of highly automated "mega-breweries".

These enormous beer factories were frequently constructed close to motorway networks to simplify distribution. Courage built the vast Worton Grange brewery overlooking the M4 near Reading. Whitbread opened large-scale plants at Salmesbury, near Preston and the M6, and at Magor in South Wales. Bass, meanwhile, developed its notorious brewery at Runcorn. The inevitable consequence was the closure of many older breweries, often bearing famous local names and producing well-known regional beers.

None of this is intended as an excuse for the actions of multinational brewing groups or the asset-stripping that sometimes followed. However, it does help explain the commercial pressures that drove many of the decisions. By the late twentieth century, Britain possessed far more brewery capacity than it needed, and once production became concentrated in a handful of modern super-breweries, the fate of many historic sites was effectively sealed.

I think the strongest point here is that the closure of breweries such as Beer & Rigden was not purely the result of corporate greed. There was also a genuine overcapacity problem. A useful comparison might be that Britain in the 1950's and 1960's was still geared to supplying a nation drinking over twice as much beer per head as it does today. When consumption began its long decline, something had to give, and unfortunately, it was often the older town-centre breweries that paid the price.

 

Faversham revisited - Pt. 2

Next up was the Anchor, a pub that wasn’t on my original list, but I’m pleased now that I took a punt on this lengthy oak-beamed building that is over 300 years old. Situated close to the quayside and boat moorings at Faversham Creek, I’m fairly certain that I hadn’t visited this nautical themed establishment before on previous visits to Faversham. From the outside, the pub looks like three different buildings joined into one, and I suppose it may well have
been, at one stage during the past. Internally, there are many original features, including a number of open fireplaces, along with a wealth of nautical memorabilia.

I ended up in the right-hand bar, where there was a lively group of local drinkers, sitting at the bar and catching up on the local gossip – people they’d seen recently. The group ignored me, as I sat at the far end of the bar, nursing my pint of Master Brew, and here follows an interesting observation. In the three Shep’s pubs that I visited that day, I didn’t spot a single pump offering Spitfire – the beer that at one time was probably the brewery’s best-selling cask ale, and certainly the most heavily promoted. 

Two of the pubs were offering the seasonal Late Red on hand-pump, but apart from that it was Master Brew all
the way. Departing from the Anchor, I headed back into town, passing on the way the attractive-looking Phoenix Tavern. This is a Faversham pub that I might have been in before, although I couldn’t be sure. One thing I did notice was the large sign outside, looking for new licensees willing to take a chance on running the pub.  Good luck to anyone brave enough to try, especially in today’s climate, but a publican’s life is not the one for me.

I continued my journey into the town centre, with the aim of visiting two further pubs before my train home. The first of these was going to be the Railway, a pub mentioned right at the start of this piece, but I ended up being distracted by the Creeker's Tap, a conversion from a former glazing shop that that opened as a pub in late 2016. This relative newcomer started life as the Corner Tap, before adopting its present name during Covid.

The Tap was refurbished in October last year, and in its present guise consists of two rooms with some solid and comfortable furniture, plus a lounge type area with a Chesterfield and armchairs in the room at the rear. The pub is also air-conditioned, a feature that would have been a major attraction two or three months ago. The Tap features 17 keg taps, from a row on the back wall, plus a couple of cask ales.

The main attraction for me was the availability of Tegernsee Spezial, an import from southern Bavaria, and a beer I have enjoyed on a couple of occasions at the, down to earth, brewery tap, overlooking the shores of Lake Tegernsee, to the south of Munich. This idyllic scene, set against the background of the Bavarian Alps, is one of the best places I know to enjoy Tegernsee beer, in a location that has monastic origins. Also, coming after the rather bland Master Brew that I’d been chugging all day, this alpine brew was far and away the best beer of the day.

It was time for one final beer, plus one last pub, and where better to finish at than the Elephant - a long time CAMRA favourite, situated at the back of Faversham railway station. This two-roomed traditional, no-frills pub, with a function room at the back, provides a warm welcome to locals and visitors alike.  I’d obviously picked a quiet time as apart from the friendly girl behind the bar, there was just me plus one other customer. Both of these people were welcoming and chatty, and this is a feature that the Elephant has always endeavoured to encourage.

The establishment was local CAMRA Branch Pub of the Year in 2023 and again in 2026. There is a fine hanging pub sign, at the front of the pub that has been restored to its rightful place after many years of exposure to the elements.  The sign features the famous Elephant, that for many years was the trademark of the former Fremlin’s Brewery. The pub’s landlord is a former member of the “Senior Service” and prides himself on serving a range of cask ales that occasionally includes a beer that has been allowed to mature in the cellar.

The pub has received numerous CAMRA awards consistently over the years. The only cloud on the horizon is that the landlord is looking to retire but has had difficulty in attracting the “right” buyer. This means a person who will keep the pub much as it is today, and without changing too much. Fingers crossed he can attract the right buyer. 

Ribersborg Stout from Shivering Sands Brewery, was my final pint of the day, and was a good one to end my exploration of, what turned out to be, just a few of Faversham’s many pubs. If you appreciate unspoilt pubs as much as I do, and are not too fussed about drinking Shepherd Neame beer, then this pleasant north Kent town is well worth a day trip, or perhaps even a longer stay.

Faversham re-visited, Pt 1

Stepping off the train at Faversham station last Friday, a minute or two after midday, brought back quite a few memories. The four-platform station is more extensive than I remember but not untypical of other stations further along the line, at places such as Margate and Ramsgate. I ascended the steps, crossed the road and right in front of me was the Railway Hotel, an imposing and attractive red brick late, Victorian public house. Like many pubs in this pleasant north Kent town, the Railway is owned by Shepherd Neame, who are Britain’s oldest brewery – see below.

I left the Railway for that final, pre return train pint and carried on towards the town centre, where I was making for two classic Shepherd Neame pubs that I remembered from previous visits. On the way, down I passed an attractive looking boozer, called the Limes. I also bookmarked that one for later as well, and carried on  Faversham retains a remarkably intact historic core, with a well preserved medieval and Georgian townscape, with parts dating back to Saxon times. In 811AD, a royal charter established Faversham as an important Saxon estate., and then in 1147–48, Faversham Abbey was founded by King Stephen and Queen Matilda. The abbey became the town’s dominant institution for nearly 400 years until its dissolution in 1538.

Local tradition holds that the abbey’s monks recognised the quality of Faversham’s spring water for brewing. This tradition continued, and in 1698 Shepherd Neame was founded. Today Shep’s are Britain’s oldest brewer and are still operating in the town centre. From the 16th century, Faversham became one of Britain’s earliest centres of gunpowder production. Its mills supplied explosives for military and industrial use until the early 20th century. A catastrophic explosion in 1916 killed over 100 workers and marked the industry’s decline. The historic feel to the town centre, is evidenced by the many half-timbered buildings, overlooking narrow streets, and winding little alleyways. The fact that much of the traffic has been diverted away from the town centre, makes walking around Faversham a pleasure rather than an experience to be wary of, but what about the pubs that I visited?

First on the list was the Bear Inn, situated in the town’s Market Place, and one of the oldest pubs in Faversham. Stepping in through the front door, visitors can either continue straight ahead, through an internal door or, do as I did and turn directly right through another door. The former option leads to two further bars, both leading off the corridor, whilst the latter opens straight into what can best be described as a “snug” bar. With bare wooden floors, wooden seating and walls decorated with various Shepherd Neame Brewery artefacts, and beer dispensed from an ancient bank of beer engines perched on the counter, this really was like stepping back in time.

Apart from me, the only other customer in the bar was a middle-aged lady perched on a bar stool, absorbed in reading the local newspaper.  She had a dog with her, but apart from that she wasn't at all chatty. I too, decided that silence was the best policy, so instead just enjoyed sitting there soaking up the atmosphere of this lovely old pub. Unfortunately, I later discovered that the Bear offered the reasonably priced food options that I spent much of the next couple of hours, looking for! Oh well, you can’t win them all, and it kind of serves me right for not doing my homework, thoroughly
enough.

I didn't have far to go to the second pub, but before stepping inside, the Sun Inn, I took a stroll along into West Street where there was a small market going on. There were some interesting items for sale, although as none appealed to me that much, I adjourned to the historic Sun Inn, an attractive and multi-roomed 14^th century pub, sited in the town’s conservation area. 

The Sun is brimming with a number of intriguing original features, including several inglenook fireplaces, oak beams plus a lovely courtyard garden, that is accessed from the middle bar. As well as being popular with local diners, the pub has eight characterful bedrooms providing stylish accommodation. Shepherd Neame beers again, although as with the Bear, the Master Brew Bitter was at least quite quaffable.

I was feeling peckish by this time, so after leaving the Sun I headed off in a westerly direction towards the quayside, at Faversham Creek. On the way I called in at Crusts, a local bakery offering filled rolls and, according to the shop sign, so much more. The rolls did indeed appear tempting, but not as tempting as the Cornish Pasty I ordered, direct from the hot cabinet. It provided the solid sustenance I was craving, so I sat out on a bench opposite the shop, enjoying this ideal, lunchtime snack. The sun too, was shining by this time, which was a welcome change from the rain that had followed me eastwards, across the county, all the way from Tonbridge.                    

To be continued.................................................................................................

 

Preamble to an enjoyable day out in Faversham

As mentioned in my previous article, I spent much of Friday enjoying a day out in the lovely and easy‑going town of Faversham. It’s not the simplest place to reach by rail from Tonbridge: two changes are required, the first at Paddock Wood, from where an interesting journey unfolds. This is where the line follows the sinuous course of the river Medway for a good stretch, offering glimpses of water, marsh, and industry as the train heads towards Rochester.

The second change takes place at Strood, an important junction where the Medway Valley line meets the main route from London Victoria to the Kent Coast. There I transferred onto a fast‑moving Javelin train for the final leg to Faversham. The train raced through the linked Medway towns - Rochester, Chatham, Gillingham, before continuing past Teynham and Sittingbourne and then finally rolling into Faversham itself.

This corner of Kent isn’t one I know particularly well, and the same is true of Faversham.  Whilst I have made several previous visits, the last of these was in 2017, and was only a brief one, as part of the Maidstone CAMRA’s annual Good Friday ramble. On that occasion we walked out to the atmospheric and unspoilt Shipwright's Arms at Conyer, one of the many small creeks that lie just inland from the Medway and the Swale - the channel separating Sheppey from
mainland Kent.

I had hoped to revisit the Shipwright's on Friday, but Google Maps informed me that Conyer was a 45‑minute walk from central Faversham. A 90‑minute round trip was more time than I could sensibly spare, so I reluctantly shelved the idea for another day and instead devoted the next four hours to exploring Faversham itself.

That decision proved wise, as I visited four classic pubs in the town, plus one relatively new outlet. Although I’d hesitate to call this latter establishment a micro-pub, it still turned out to be a real surprise, and in some respects the best discovery of the day, even if not quite the best pub overall. Three of the others were Shepherd Neame houses, and the final one was a CAMRA‑approved gem that I remember fondly from visits 15 to 20 years ago.

If I have one gripe about the day, it’s the increasingly widespread absence of simple, affordable, foldable food in many pubs. This seems to be a particular issue in this part of the country. Not everyone wants a full sit‑down meal, yet the Midlands and the North manage perfectly well with filled rolls, referred to as Cobbs - which provide a tasty, satisfying, and entirely manageable snack. It seems baffling that Kent and the rest of the south-east can’t follow suit.

 

Hitting the magic ton!

It’s taken nine and a half months of wandering, planning, and occasionally sheer opportunism, but I’ve finally struck gold. Yes, the magic ton has been hit. For those who don’t follow my particular brand of eccentric ticking, that means I’ve now visited one hundred unique pubs so far in 2026.  By unique, I mean pubs I’ve set foot in once and once only this calendar year. Plenty of hostelries have seen me more than once - some far more than once, but for the purposes of this annual tally, each pub only counts the first time I cross the threshold. 

Then, come 1^st January, the clock resets and the whole glorious chase begins again. It’s a slightly crazy challenge, but it keeps me exploring, keeps me curious, and occasionally gets me into places I’d never otherwise have discovered. Hitting the magic ton is definitely a proper milestone, and after nine and a half months of steady ticking, strategic detours, and the occasional “well, since I’m here anyway…” pint, I’ve finally done it. One hundred unique pubs in 2026. That’s not just dedication; that’s craft, discipline, and a touch of glorious obsession.

Now, while a hundred pubs might seem impressive to me- and it certainly is, I’m well aware that in the wider world of pub enthusiasts, it barely raises an eyebrow. Some of the seasoned wanderers whose online ramblings I follow, regularly clock up that total every two or three months. That’s dedication of a different order entirely, but it’s also the product of a particular stage of life. Most of them have long since left the world of work behind, enjoying the freedom that retirement brings. A few are simply very wealthy — though I can’t really claim to know anyone in that category.

For me, though, this year’s tally has been fun precisely because it’s taken me to pubs, that I’d never normally have thought of visiting. The challenge has pushed me out of familiar territory and into new villages, new towns, and new corners of Kent and Sussex, as well as the odd town, further afield. It’s broadened my horizons pint by pint. So, where next? With two and a half months still to go until the end of the year, there’s plenty of time to keep exploring. I could take things easy now I’ve reached the ton… but where’s the fun in that? There are still dozens of pubs within striking distance that I’ve never set foot in, and the map is full of tempting gaps. The chase continues - just at a slightly more relaxed pace.

There’s one detail I’ve conveniently omitted so far: not all of those hundred pubs were in the UK. The vast majority were, of course, but seven of them were in Norway - visited during our cruise, back in March, as we sailed up the Norwegian coast, beyond the Arctic Circle and back again. Add to that a single hostelry in the Irish Republic, in the very pleasant town of Cobh (the port for Cork), and the tally becomes a little more cosmopolitan.

I’m not entirely sure whether these foreign pubs count under whatever “official rules” might exist for pub‑ticking, but frankly, I’m saying they do. A pub is a pub, whether it’s perched overlooking a fjord or tucked into a colourful Irish harbour town. And besides, it would feel wrong to leave them out when they were such memorable stops.

As for the hundredth pub - the one that finally tipped me over into triple figures, it turned out to be the Imperial at Southborough. You’ll find it just down the hill as you drive along the A26 towards Tunbridge Wells. It’s a pleasant, well‑kept pub, divided internally into several distinct areas that aren’t quite separate rooms but give the place a comfortable, compartmentalised feel. I’ve known it on and off over the years, but it now stands as one of only two pubs remaining in that long, linear settlement that can’t quite decide whether it belongs to Tonbridge or Tunbridge Wells.

Not a bad place at all then, to mark the magic ton, especially as it was a totally unexpected place to end my quest. And now, with the ton finally chalked up, I can enjoy the rest of the year at a slightly more relaxed pace… or I can see how far beyond a hundred I can push things before New Year’s Eve. 

Favesham - definitely may be

I appreciate that it’s still mid-week, but I thought I’d spring this idea on you, especially as it will be the weekend, before we know it. I’m planning a day out in the attractive, north Kent town of Faversham, a location that despite a couple of changes, is easily accessible by rail. Furthermore, with the aid of my old git’s railcard, is a relatively inexpensive train ride away.

It’s probably a couple of decades since I last visited the town, and so today, I spent part of my lunch-break at work, planning out an itinerary. I also asked my friend Copilot for a few suggestions, and I’m pleased to report that AI’s recommendations were a pretty close match to my own. So, without further ado, this is what AI came up with.

A Faversham pub‑crawl is one of the best ideas you could have in Kent — compact town centre, proper heritage pubs, and of course the gravitational pull of Shepherd Neame, Britain’s oldest brewery. Based on the fresh local data above, here’s a structured, pub‑ticking‑friendly plan that plays to your interests: Victorian interiors, real ale, and places with character.

Top picks - shortlist

1. Bear Inn - central, historic, very well‑kept ales, strong reviews.

2. Sun Inn - 14th‑century coaching inn, atmospheric, reliable beer.

3. Elephant  -  independent, lively, good beer range beyond Shepherd Neame.

4. Phoenix Tavern  - beamed, old‑world, refined food, cosy.

5. Anchor Inn - rustic, food‑led, locally sourced produce.

A practical pub‑ticking route that is easily walkable

Bear Inn (Market Place)

A cracking place to start - central, handsome frontage, and one of the best‑rated pubs in town (4.5★, 551 reviews). Good for a first pint while you get your bearings. Beer: Shepherd Neame classics in excellent condition.

Sun Inn (West Street)

Only a minute’s walk away. A 14th‑century inn with beams, nooks, and a proper old coaching‑house feel. Beer: Again Shepherd Neame, but the setting makes it worthwhile.

Elephant (The Mall)

Independent, friendly, and with a more varied beer selection — often local or guest ales. A nice change of pace after two SN houses. Atmosphere: Lively, community‑minded, very well reviewed .

Phoenix Tavern (Abbey Street)

A beautiful old building with bare brick, beams, and an inglenook fireplace. More of a dining pub, but still a lovely stop for a quieter pint. Beer: Shepherd Neame, but the setting elevates it.

Anchor Inn (Abbey Street)

A short stroll further up Abbey Street. Rustic, food‑led, and attached to its own farm. Beer: Not the widest range, but the pub is worth seeing.

To finish this short article, here's a link to a post I wrote about Faversham, which dates from April 2017. This was almost certainly the date of my last visit to the town, so Friday's proposed trip, is long overdue.