Having set the scene for our
Black Country Walkabout, it’s
now time for the main event, which of course was visiting the five, classic
Black Country pubs, as originally earmarked by me, then verified and approved by
Stafford Paul, local expert, and
Pub Man extraordinaire.
Paul had spent a lot
of time tidying up the provisional route that I’d suggested last summer, even
to the extent of trying out some of the local buses and finding a much more
workable alternative to my original idea of starting out from
Cradley Heath
rail station. This meant some good came out of us postponing the trip, back in
August, due to
COVID – me, rather than
Stafford Paul.
The intention, to begin the tour from
Brierley Hill, the most
southerly point, remained the same, but this time all we had to do was sit on
the
No. 8 bus from
Wolverhampton, all the way to the first, and arguably one of
the best, pubs on the crawl. It took the best part of an hour before the bus
and ourselves, parted company, just five minutes’ walk from the
Vine, and
whilst I had seen many photos of this classic
Batham’s pub, I was surprised by
its open situation and outlook, across the rolling hills of the
Black Country.
Those hills were first described to me by pioneering beer
writer
Frank Baillie (no relation), in his ground-breaking book,
"The Beer
Drinker’s Companion," although little did, I think after reading those words,
that it would take me
50 years to see the pub for myself. And not only visit
it, but step inside its hallowed walls and enjoy a couple of pint’s of
Batham’s
finest, brewed at the quaintly named,
Delph Brewery, behind the pub.
Paul had
warned me that the
Vine, also known as the
Bull & Bladder, would be busy,
and that we would need to get our food order in quick. This was because the
first half of our tour was governed by a tight schedule, for reasons I shall
reveal later. So, after pausing to take a few photos ox the exterior, whilst
making way for customers eager to get inside, we too passed through the portal
and joined the queue that had formed at the serving hatch.
A pint of Batham’s
Best Bitter for me and a pint of the brewery’s mild for Paul. Just £2.60 a
pint, and a couple of the best beers I’ve drank in a long, long time. Smooth, creamy, well-conditioned, clear as a bell and topped
with a white creamy head that clung to the glass leaving “lacings” as the
contents were eagerly drained by both Paul and me. It was beer heaven, as far as I was concerned, and I know my companion was equally enthusiastic about this
marvellous beer.
Paul went off to order some food, leaving me at a table, in
the large room to the left of the lobby, which we shared with a couple of other
appreciative
Batham’s drinkers. Not long after, our lunchtime meal arrived -
steak pie, chips and mushy peas for me, and faggots, gravy, chips, and mushy
peas for
Paul. Both meals came in at just
£5.00 each, which was amazing value.
Most of the pub regulars, of which there were many, were eating as well, but
with a large room at the rear, plus a staunchly traditional bar at the front,
there was plenty of room for everyone. After finishing our meal, we too moved
to the latter room, in order to soak up the atmosphere of this amazingly
unspoilt local, which judging by the queue outside.
All too soon it was time to move on and so we retraced our footsteps
back towards the huge
Merry Hill shopping complex, where after a shot wait, we
boarded a bus that was travelling in the direction of
Dudley.
This dropped us
at
Netherton, where we alighted, and crossed the road to the second pub of the
day, the legendary
Old Swan, known locally as
Ma
Pardoe’s. The
Old Swan is one of the four surviving home-brew pubs that
were around at the time that
CAMRA was founded, the other three being the
Blue
Anchor, Helston, Cornwall, the
Three Tuns, at
Bishop’s Castle, Shropshire, and
the
All Nations at
Madeley, also in
Shropshire. The latter is now the only one
of those four historic pubs, that I have not been to.
Last
Friday’s visit to
Ma Pardoe’s, was another first, and
it was definitely worth visiting. As with the other pubs,
Stafford Paul had
done his homework, and discovered that the
“wonderfully evocative original bar, unchanged since Victorian times” doesn’t open nowadays until
5pm. Tim Newey,
who is the long-serving licensee at the
Old Swan, told him that
“most of
the bar customers are dead now," although anyone particularly interested can
sit in there having bought their pints in the
1980s extension next door. The
exterior of the extension can clearly be seen in the photograph below and looks
like it may have once been a separate building.
We followed
Mr Newey’s suggestion and after purchasing our
pints of
Olde Swan Original, asked the barman if we could take them through to
the original section of the pub. He escorted us round, and left us to admire the
interior, which is virtually unchanged from
Victorian times. It features an
ornate, enamelled ceiling, with a picture of a
Swan, and this gracious bird
also features on a mirror behind the bar. A standalone burner provides the heating.
There is a cosy snug, plus a two-room lounge in the newer section of the pub.
Paul and I were just sitting there enjoying our pints, when a
WhatsApp message came through from
Retired Martin, informing us that he was in
the
Swan, but where were we? We put him straight, as to our whereabouts, and he came through an
joined us. He had done well in catching us up, particularly in view of his dislike
of buses, and it was good that he was able to join up with us at
Netherton. We enjoyed listening to his various escapades,
but regrettably there wasn’t time for a further pint at the
Old Swan.
I mentioned earlier that we were on a tight time schedule,
and this was because the
Beacon Hotel at
Sedgley, the next pub on our itinerary
still keeps old fashioned hours, and closes at
3pm, for an afternoon break. Although
we had
75 minutes to reach the
Beacon, the journey involved a change of buses in
Dudley. The traffic was also heavy, after all it was
Friday afternoon, but
there were road works as well. With time ticking away, there was a danger we
might not make it to the pub before it closed for the afternoon.
Martin came to the rescue and jumped off the bus a few stops
before we reached
Sedgley. He then gallantly power-walked to the pub, arriving several
minutes ahead of us. When
Paul and I eventually reached the pub, we found
Martin
waiting there along with three dimple pint mugs of
Sarah Hughes Ruby Mild on
the table. This
6% abv dark mild, was a good beer on which to finish the
lunchtime session, although I was admittedly quite taken aback by the strength
of this ale, which is one of several brewed on the premises, at the
tower
brewery at the rear of this characterful pub.
The beers are served from a small central hatchway, complete
with leaded windows, and we caught up with our friend in one of the adjoining rooms,
which was still busy with drinkers finishing off their pints. When I visited
the
Gents, I noticed a couple of doors marked
Brew-House and
Fermenting Room,
and as you can see from the photo, the brew-house is housed in a substantial
red-brick building to the rear of where we were sitting.
Sadly, it was time to drink up and say goodbye to the
Beacon, and also to
Martin, who had an engagement that evening, back home in
Sheffield.
It was good of him to have taken the time and effort to join us, although it’s a
pity he wasn’t able to continue the crawl, as there were still two more cracking
pubs to go.
You can read about these in
the next, and final post from this
Black Country Walkabout.