I was away in Norfolk again at the weekend, and I’m pleased to report that my father has settles in well in the care home and is comfortable with his new surroundings and his fellow residents. Despite his Alzheimer’s he not only recognised me, but was genuinely pleased to see me.
As you can imagine, knowing that dad is being well cared for is of great comfort to my two sisters and I expect to carry on making regular visits to see him. One thing which doesn’t get any easier though is the journey up to Norfolk and back. I feel that I know every inch of both the M11 and the A11, and whilst on a good run I can accomplish the journey in just over two and a half hours, it is a tiring and rather monotonous trip.
Now that I am no longer bound by time constraints, I have decided to vary my route and, where possible, include the odd pub stop on the way. On previous trips I have visited the Green Dragon at Wymondham and the Chequers Inn at Thompson; both of which are listed on CAMRA’s Pub Heritage Website of Historic Pub Interiors, so I considered this to be a good selection criteria for future pub stops. I noticed though that the Green Dragon has a “Blue Star” listing, whilst the Chequers has just a “Yellow Star”. The former indicates “an historic pub interior of regional importance.”, whilst the latter signifies “an historic pub interior of some regional importance.” Pubs with “an historic pub interior of national importance”, qualify for a “Red Star”, on the site.
Now I wrote several years ago that I thought this was nit-picking; and the input here of English Heritage and their almost fanatical pursuit of architectural perfection hasn’t helped matters, but in some ways the rather strict guidelines set by CAMRA and EH have helped in my latest slightly obsessional quest. Some people set themselves the target of visiting every pub listed in the current CAMRA Good Beer Guide; others decide to visit every Red Lion in the country. Football fans will try and visit the nearest pub to every Football League ground, and cricket fans will do similar by visiting pubs close to each county ground.
As I am still gainfully employed, and have a limited amount of annual leave, I thought something a little less arduous would suffice. So without setting any timescale I have decided to visit every pub in England (other parts of the United Kingdom may follow later), with a “Red Star” listing on the Heritage Pub Website; in other words every pub with an historic interior of national importance.
I haven’t totalled them all up yet. The National Inventory Website states there are 275, but is unclear as to whether this includes blue and yellow star entries as well. Looking through the list there are quite a few which I have already been to, but I also notice that there concentrations of entries in certain areas, with Greater London topping the list. Certain counties do much better than others; for example there are five pubs listed in Suffolk, but none at all in Surrey.
I clocked off two “Red Star” pubs this weekend; one on the outward journey and one on the return. The first was in Suffolk, whilst the second was in Essex and surprisingly close to London.
I intend to write about both in a subsequent post, but in the meantime if anyone has any tips or recommendations as to the best way to approach this task, then please get in touch.
Beer-related travel, at home and abroad, exploring and indulging my passion for beer.
Sunday, 28 February 2016
Thursday, 25 February 2016
The Chiddingstones - Part One
Part One- Chiddingstone Causeway
Dukes Factory- Chiddingstone Causeway |
Penshurst is no exception, with the village being some two miles or so away, but it is worth noting that the station was originally built to provide rail access to Penshurst Place; ancestral home of the Sidney family, and one of the most complete surviving examples of 14th-century domestic architecture in England.
The settlement which grew up next to the station became known as Chiddingstone Causeway. The “Causeway” part of the name is thought to refer to the route across boggy ground towards Sevenoaks, whilst the first part comes from the nearby village of Chiddingstone; a much older settlement which dates back at least to Anglo-Saxon times, and possibly before.
There is also a small hamlet called Chiddingstone Hoath, which is about two miles to the south of Chiddingstone village. The three settlements are known collectively as “The Chiddingstones”; a name which is also the title of the local Parish Magazine.
Winter scene- Little Brown Jug |
The most famous of these was the firm of Duke and Sons, who started to make cricket bats and balls in the 1860's; initially for Penshurst Place but then, due to the proximity of the railway, to sell further afield. When I started with my present firm, the former premises of Duke and Sons, housed the company offices, but in late 2008 these were relocated to the main manufacturing site across the road. A row of new cottages now occupies the site.
Because of the increase in population a church was built of corrugated iron but in 1898, as congregations increased in size, an attractive stone church was erected towards the crest of the hill, and dedicated to St Luke. Nowadays the village consists mostly of housing, a few local businesses, of which my company is the largest, plus a shop and post office. There is also a pub in the village, and as this blog is primarily about beer, the local hostelry is well worth a mention.
The pub started life as the Station Tavern; an appropriate name given its location directly opposite the station. It is an attractive late 19th Century building which despite being enlarged over the years, still retains much of its original character. For most of the last century, the pub traded under this name until it was bought by a jazz and big-band enthusiast and renamed the Little Brown Jug, after the well-known Glen Miller tune.
By the time I moved to the local area, the pub had been the Little Brown Jug for quite a number of years. The big-band enthusiast landlord was called Don, but that is all I remember of him. As far as I recall the Jug was a Charrington’s house, and back then, it still had two bars. A change of management, in the later 1980’s, saw it dramatically increased in size, with new kitchens, a function room and even bed and breakfast accommodation added.
The new owner was a shrewd businessman called Charlie Cannon. He was a nice chap with a genuine interest in “real ale”, which obviously endeared him to the local CAMRA branch (myself included), but more tangibly saw a wide range of different cask ales being sold at the pub. One evening, Charlie gave a group of us a tour of his cellar; such was his pride in the beer he sold at the Jug.
Sometime towards the end of the 90’s, Charlie received an offer he couldn’t refuse, so he sold up and moved on. I think it was around this time that Greene King appeared on the scene. The extensive range of interesting beers was replaced by standard GK offerings and the pub fell out of favour with the local CAMRA branch, and generally off the radar altogether.
In the summer of 2006, I started work at my present company, and gradually renewed my acquaintance with the Little Brown Jug. Further alterations were made to the pub, with the B&B accommodation converted into additional dining space. It opened in its most recent incarnation in February 2007, and I must say the design team did a pretty good job on it. Although tied to Greene King, the Jug is owned a company called Whiting & Hammond, who operate a small chain of food-oriented pubs in this part of the county. The beer is still standard GK stuff, but local favourite Larkin’s Traditional is stocked, and is probably the pub’s best selling cask beer – certainly amongst the locals!
Walk across the old airfield |
If you walk up the hill from the Little Brown Jug, you will come to a tarmac footpath, on the same side of the road and just past the church. This will take you across an old World War II airfield to the Greyhound pub, situated in the tiny hamlet of Charcott.
The Greyhound is a pleasant bright and breezy local, with views across the fields towards the hills that form the start of the High Weald. It has a separate restaurant area, as like many country pubs these days it relies heavily on the food trade. There still seems to be three distinct areas in the main part of the pub, although the divisions that marked the former bars are long gone. During the winter months, open fires supplement the central heating.
The Greyhound is close to my workplace, and I often walk by during my lunch break noting the substantial number cars parked outside. The other day, I noticed Harvey’s Best, Tonbridge Copper Knob and a Westerham beer on sale, but the Greyhound has also featured Otter beers in the past. There is a secluded garden to the left of the pub, plus benches and tables directly outside.
Both pubs are easy to reach for those not fortunate to either live or work in the village. Penshurst station is just two stops from Tonbridge, on the line out to Redhill, and there are also buses from Tunbridge Wells.
Sunday, 21 February 2016
Robertsbridge - East Sussex
Robertsbridge High Street |
The town of Battle grew up around the Abbey, which was erected on the site of the most famous battle in English history, by the victor, Duke William of Normandy. On 14th October 1066, the area witnessed the most celebrated confrontation to take place on English soil – the Battle of Hastings; an event so significant it completely changed the course of English history.
Following the battle William the Conqueror built Battle Abbey, as a penance ordered by the Pope for the loss of life incurred in the conflict. Today, Battle is a thriving market town featuring Georgian and medieval cottages amongst a host of interesting shops, restaurants, historic pubs and tea-rooms.
Battle Abbey |
I looked at several options, but as well as somewhere with a decent pub (or pubs) serving good beer, I wanted a place which offered reasonably-priced food; something not always readily available on a Saturday evening. Quite independently we both decided on Robertsbridge; one stop nearer to home, and the place where trains would be terminating and the rail-replacement buses would be taking over.
We had noticed the village supports two pubs; with a third currently closed. The Ostrich Hotel, virtually opposite the station, looked the best bet so far as the reasonably-priced food was concerned, but the George Inn in the centre of the village, also looked worthy of closer inspection.
Robertsbridge is a large village which dates back to the 12th Century, when a Cistercian Abbey was founded there. The latter was dissolved in 1538, on the orders of that well-know Tudor vandal, Henry VIII, but the town continued to prosper and today contains some attractive half-timbered cottages and other buildings dating from the 14th and 15th Centuries. The opening of the London to Hastings Railway, in 1851, brought further prosperity to the town, and the completion of a bypass in 1992, removed much of the traffic which had been choking the town.
We caught the 16:29 train from Tonbridge, travelling down through the attractive countryside of this part of the Sussex Weald, and arrived in the village just before 17:10. After confirming the departure times for the return journey, we walked across the road to the Ostrich Hotel, which shone out like a friendly and welcoming beacon against the gathering dusk.
Ostrich - Main Bar |
Harvey’s Sussex Best and GK Old Speckled Hen were the two cask beers on offer, and I also spotted the Curious Brew lager, which I wrote about last week, available on keg. There was a group of walkers sat around one of the tables; we almost tripped over their boots which were stacked just inside the door!
Ostrich - Games Room |
We had already decided not to dine at the George, having previously on-line at the menu options for both pubs. Prices at the George were around 50% higher than the Ostrich, but we set off anyway, just o give the pub a try. We walked up the narrow road, which leads from the station, to the High Street, and turned right towards the George, which we could just see at the end of the road.
The George is an imposing red tiled fronted building which, before the coming of the railway, was formerly a coaching inn. The pub dates from the 18th-century, and as expected has plenty of low beams. The bar area occupies the far right of the building, and most of the drinkers were gathered here in front of the warming inglenook fireplace. There are views from the bar, back down the High Street with the distinctive War Memorial clock tower, erected in 1926, featuring prominently just across the green. Most of the interior though was given over to dining, and although there were plenty of tables laid out for dinner, none were occupied.
Beer-wise Harvey’s Sussex Best and Dark Star APA were available, but unfortunately the latter had run out, just as we arrived. We went for the Harvey’s again, even though the landlord said Tonbridge Rustic was about to come on. The Sussex Best was, if anything, even better than in the Ostrich. The landlady was quite chatty, but the locals were all busy engaged in their own conversations. We both liked the George, more than we thought we would, but as we were getting hungry, we headed off back down to the Ostrich.
George Inn - interior |
We returned to the bar after our meal, and continued our pre-dinner conversation with one of the pub regulars plus, when he could spare the odd moment, the landlord. The latter told us he had bought the Ostrich from the owning brewery, back in the mid 1990’s, and described the establishment as a “proper pub”. It certainly is a good, old-fashioned sort of pub, of the type both of us remember with affection from our youth. We chatted briefly about the potential re-opening of the Rother-Valley branch line up to Tenterden, and also about the Seven Stars.
The latter is a 14th Century at the opposite end of the village to the George. It is a Harvey’s tied pub, which makes its current closure all the more strange, but there was talk of high rents and equally high business rates. Perhaps in today’s changing times, there just isn’t sufficient trade in a village the size of Robertsbridge, to support three pubs.
We caught the 21:14 train back to Tonbridge; well-fed and suitably refreshed. We were glad that Network Rail had scuppered our original plans, but we will make the trip out to Battle before too long. We will also be returning to Robertsbridge and its two excellent pubs.
Saturday, 20 February 2016
TW3 -That Was the Week that Wasn't!
TW3 – That Was the Week that Was; a satirical comedy
programme, first aired on the BBC. Fronted
by the late Sir David Frost, TW3 broke new ground for British comedy by poking
fun at politicians and establishment figures. I was only seven years old at the
time, so I don’t remember it. I don’t remember my parents watching it either,
although they may well have done, as I suspect the programme went out long
after my sister and I were tucked up in our beds.
All this is irrelevant really apart from using the acronym
to describe the past week; the exception being that instead of the week that
WAS, it was the week that WASN’T!
I spent a frustrating week trying to put a trip to Germany together,
on behalf of a small group of local CAMRA members; only to see it all untangle on
Thursday afternoon. I don’t want to say too much here, apart from the fact that
I learnt a few things, and also learnt how NOT to organise such a trip, but all
is not lost and there may be the opportunity to re-schedule something for later
in the year.
Having a busy work schedule didn’t help matters, and whilst there
has been quite a lot to write about recently, there has not been sufficient
time for any serious blogging. There are nevertheless a few things I would like
to share, which I may find time to expand on later, but for now it’s worth
mentioning the following:
A mid-week CAMRA Meeting, at two pubs within walking
distance of my workplace is certainly worthy of a post; as will be today’s
outing with my friend Eric, across the border into deepest Sussex.
Continuing the Sussex
theme, I am still working on my piece about the legendary Bonfire Night Celebrations which take place in the ancient town of Lewes,
every November 5th. I’ve also been making inroads into the beers
left over from Christmas, discovering along the way one of the best Christmas
Ales I’ve had in a long time, but also being rather disappointed with another.
Other matters are also conspiring to eat into my writing,
especially as I will be away for the following two weekends. The first trip
will see me driving back up to Norfolk,
to visit my father. I’ll also take the opportunity to catch up with my sister,
who lives nearby. I strongly expect there will be one or two pubs visited over
the course of the weekend, but my main objective is to see how dad is getting
on now that he has settled in at the care home.
The weekend after will see me flying off to Barcelona
for three days. The city will be holding its annual Beer Festival; now in its 7th
year I believe. There is a real burgeoning beer scene in the Catalonia
region of Spain,
and whilst we caught a brief glimpse of it during our visit in December 2014, it will be exciting to experience it at first hand, in all its full-on, in your
face glory.
I haven’t a clue what the weather will be like there at the beginning
of March, and it doesn’t really matter as I will be under cover most of the
time. However, the city’s Maritime Museum,
which hosts the event, is close to the seafront, so it would be nice to spill
out into the open and enjoy some al fresco drinking.
Well that’s all until tomorrow. I must now hurry down to the
station and meet my friend for a light evening’s drinking in Sussex.
Cheers for now.
Sunday, 14 February 2016
Curious Brew to Expand
After two posts with a somewhat negative theme running
through them, this one is far more positive and upbeat, with some good news
concerning a local business which is expanding its brewing operation.
The Chapel Down Winery, who are based at Tenterden, in the
heart of the Kentish Weald have embarked on a crowd-funding campaign to
develop further the brewing side of their off-shoot Curious Drinks division.
Readers may have noticed some of their Curious Brew products, on the shelves in
Waitrose. The range includes an IPA, a Porter and a cider, plus a lager, called
"Curious Brew", which is re-fermented with Champagne
yeast.
Now I realise I slated Meantime in a
recent post, for doing the very same thing with their strong IPA, but having
tasted the Chapel Down product, I can safely say it is far cleaner tasting, and far more refreshing than
the one which Meantime came up with recently.
At the moment, the beers are all contract-brewed (I don’t
know about the cider), by Hepworth & Co in Horsham, but it was always the intention
of Chapel Down to switch the production of these products to an “in-house”
operation; hence the crowd-funding campaign.
I’ve picked up on this story quite late in the day, as the
crowd-funding operation is nearing its end and approaching its target. This was
initially £1 million, but in an interview in the “Index Magazine", (a glossy
publication, promoting various aspects of local life in Kent and Sussex, and
distributed free each month to local homes), Chapel Down Chief Executive,
Frazer Thompson, expressed optimism that the final total will be around £1.5
million by the end of February, when the fundraising is due to finish.
He spoke regarding the creation of a “dedicated brewing
facility” in nearby Ashford, which would be responsible for producing the full
range of the company’s beers, as well as housing a visitor centre. He went on
to say, “With Kent being the home of hops, it’s fantastic that we should be
doing this here in the county, with our Curious Brew products. But we don’t
just want people in Kent
to be drinking them; we want them to be something known all over the world.”
Chapel Down have obviously got big ideas, and it will be
interesting to see in what ways the Curious Brew side will expand, once the new
plant has been built and is up and running. I can envisage an expanded range of
beers as well as draught versions of some of them; although whether the company
will want to offer cask variants remains to be seen. In the meantime, keep an
eye out for some Curious Brew heading your way; and there is still a couple of weeks left if you wish to contribute to the crowd-funding.
Statement:
Chapel Down produces a world-class range of sparkling and
still wines, together with the award-winning range of Curious beers &
cider. Their sparkling wines are created using the Traditional Method,
the same as Champagne, from fruit sourced from their own and partner vineyards
across the South-East of England.
…..............................................….sourced from the company website.
Saturday, 13 February 2016
Not Cutting the Mustard
Fellow blogger The Pub Curmudgeon wrote a post a week or so ago,
regarding what to do when food in a pub or restaurant isn’t quite up to scratch.
The gist of the post was that it is often far easier to return an off-pint of
beer than it is food; even when the latter is obviously not right. Blogger Ed
Wray commented that it could be unwise to return food, owing to the risk of
kitchen staff spitting on, or in it, before they bring it back to you. I backed
up this concern with some horrendous stories of kitchen staff exacting their revenge in
even more grotesque ways. These actions were recounted to me by a work
colleague whose wife used to work in a restaurant.
Leaving these particularly unpleasant stories to one side
for a while, Curmudgeon went on to recount how he’d had to return food in
various pubs when things weren’t to his liking. He admitted to being a fussy
eater; something which I certainly am not. With one or two exceptions, I will
eat most things, but the article did prompt me to think back to a couple of
occasions where I had cause to either return my food, or had ended up leaving
most of it on the plate.
Fortunately these instances have been quite rare, but oddly
enough they both took place last year. The first "food fail" happened just over a
year ago, whilst on a CAMRA bus trip in which we visited a few pubs in the
Edenbridge area. I haven’t named the pub where the event took place; especially
as it was over a year ago. If you are desperate to know which one it was though,
I suggest you take a look back to a post I made last February.
Not as good as it looks |
It turned out that the licensees were away, and I suspect
that had they been present this incident would either not have occurred, or it
would have been rectified to the satisfaction of both parties. For my part, I
haven’t been back to the pub, and if I do return I will definitely not be
eating there.
The other incident, where I was unable to eat what was put
in front of me, was in no way the fault of the restaurant concerned; but rather
my not liking the manner in which the food has been prepared. This particular "food
fail" occurred last August on the evening of the first day of the European
Beer Bloggers & Writers Conference in Brussels.
It took place in the
sumptuous surroundings of the Belga Queen, which is one of the
Belgian capital’s finest restaurants.
Posh plates |
Now this was all happening courtesy of the Belgium Family
Brewers, so it seems rather churlish of me to criticise. The meal was a set
course, although had I known what was going to be served up I would have gone
for the vegetarian option! Roast rack of veal, was the main course – bloody,
fatty and far too underdone, for my liking. Unfortunately for me, this is how the Belgians
like their meat! As stated earlier, I am not a fussy eater, but I am not a fan
of meat which is rare, bloody or otherwise undercooked. Leaving health issues
aside, I find rare meat more an exercise in chewing than enjoyment, and fail
totally to see the attraction.
Posh nosh - rather too rare for my liking |
It seemed however, that I was not alone in my distain of the
main dish, as on the walk back to the hotel, I joined several other delegates
in popping into a nearby kebab shop for some chips. Posh nosh is not always
what it’s cracked up to be, and when you’ve had a belly full of beer you need
some real “comfort food” to help soak it up!
A typical Japanese meal |
I have digressed somewhat from the question of whether or
not to return food which isn’t to one’s liking. As mentioned earlier, my
colleague’s wife worked in several restaurant kitchens, and had some horrendous
tales to tell about what happened to customers foolish enough to return their
food.
As I am sure you can imagine, many chefs have vastly
over-inflated egos; just think of certain so-called “celebrity chefs" and you
will know what I mean. They tend to take any criticism of their cooking, however well
intended, as a personal affront. My kitchen informant recounted horror stories of bogies being
mixed into food which had been sent back, as well as spit, but the worst one
involved a returned steak. This was unceremoniously wiped around the inside of
the toilet pan before being returned to the unfortunate and clueless customer.
I would like to think that most kitchen staff wouldn’t dream
of acting in such a disgusting, and potentially heath-threatening manner; if
they did, then they should never be allowed to work in catering again. But as
it is difficult to know what exactly goes on behind the closed doors of a pub
restaurant or kitchen, and hard to predict just how widespread such practices
are, I would ere on the side of caution. So if you are served with a meal which
isn’t quite right, don’t be too hasty in sending it back.
You may be better off just leaving the food, but if you feel
sufficiently strongly about its poor quality, bring it to the pub or restaurant
management’s attention. At the very least you should be entitled to a reduction
in your bill. In the light of what I have described above, be wary of offers of
vouchers or a free meal next time, as you may find the staff remember you, and
not in a nice way!
However, most people out for a meal are not looking for confrontation,
especially as this can further sour what should be an enjoyable occasion. If
this is the case you may just prefer to never eat in that place again. Spread
the word amongst your friends and family, if you feel that put out by your experience.
It’s a tricky thing, as we Brits don’t like to complain and
cause a fuss, but if we wish to see high standards maintained in our pubs and
restaurants, we really should say something; even if it is after the event.
Tuesday, 9 February 2016
Sorry Meantime!
I am a big fan of Meantime Brewery, with an appreciation of
the company and its beers which goes back many years; so when their PR people
sent me a bottle of IPA 2000 to review, from their “Brewers’ Collection”, I was
both flattered and delighted.
IPA 2000 is a limited edition brew of just 1,200 bottles,
with each one individually numbered. It is also a big beer in several ways, not
least of which is its presentation in a wired corked, 750ml bottle. The other
“big” selling point is its 8.0% ABV.
According to the bottle the beer was brewed to celebrate their 2,000th
beer tap; although initially I wasn’t sure what exactly is meant by this rather
American sounding term. Apparently it refers to the brewery achieving
its 2,000th beer tap listing, although I’m not quite sure how they keep such
close tabs on what must be an ever changing market.
So what about the beer itself? Well unfortunately, in spite of my high initial expectations, this particular brew doesn’t do it for me at all. The
clue lies with the rest of the write up on the back label, as the brewery claim
they have combined one of their most traditional styles of beer (Meantime IPA),
with Champagne yeast to infuse the beer with a delicate
carbonation.
And there in lies the rub, as the label goes on to say that
“The complex and fruity flavours of the IPA are allowed to develop and work
with the Champagne yeast to give bready notes typically
associated with sparkling wines.” Personally, I think the Champagne
yeast has worked against the flavours of the IPA and smothered them. So sorry
Meantime, this beer really doesn’t do anything for me, and whilst this might
have been considered an interesting experiment, it hasn’t worked for me.
I am sure there are many out there who will really rave over
this beer, but unfortunately I’m not one of them. This may sound rather
churlish, seeing as I was given the beer for free, but I speak as I find, and
whilst the beer has obviously been brewed according to the best traditions of
Meantime, I am not at all keen on it.
I realise there are all sorts of strange fusions going on at
present between the worlds of brewing and wine-making, and I saw plenty of
evidence of this in Belgium last year with strong beer being matured in oak
barrels formerly used to hold Burgundy wines. To me, these are novelty beers; interesting to try on the odd occasion, especially alongside certain foods, but I know
what I like in a beer and feel that using Champagne yeast to ferment this beer
muddies the water and detracts from the flavours and aromas one would expect
from the malt and the hops.
Sorry Meantime, especially as I’m certain you were expecting
a more positive review. That’s probably me off the Christmas card list, or worse
and no more invites to new beer launches, but despite this I’ll continue
looking out for your more “normal” beers, and more traditional styles, in both
the on, as well as the off-trade.
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