Beer Quality

My two most recent posts touched on the related subjects of beer quality and beer choice, and these are areas I want to explore further. In this post I will look at quality, whilst in the subsequent one I will examine the issue of choice.

Those of us who enjoy the odd pint or three of cask-conditioned ale (commonly known as “Real Ale”), will be only too aware of just how important quality can be. Most beers consumed in the pub environment, are brewery-conditioned, and as such require little in the way of further attention once they arrive at the pub. Cask-conditioned beer, on the other hand, are “living” beers in so much as they reach the pub in an immature state and require a further period of fermentation (conditioning) in the pub cellar before they can be served.  This maturation allows condition to develop in the beer. By condition I mean dissolved carbon-dioxide gas, which when present at the correct level, gives the beer that pleasant slightly prickly feel on the tongue. Without it, the beer would be flat and lifeless.

 

The conditioning period also allows the remaining yeast distributed throughout the beer to drop out of suspension, so that the beer ends up bright and sparkling. Get this process right, and the beer can be amongst the best you have ever tasted. Get it wrong and the end result is a flat, stale, cloudy pint which not only reeks of old socks but is also sufficient to put a novice off ever trying a pint of real ale again!

Seasoned real ale drinkers know this, and given the often unknown factors which come into play here, reluctantly accept it. Brewers also know that despite their best efforts in the brewery to produce a first class pint, the final part of the process is outside of their control. This is why brewers both large and small, have invested a lot of time and money by running courses in cellarmanship for pub landlords and landladies.

Unfortunately, a lot of pubs these days are not owned by breweries, but by Pub Companies instead, and many of these organisations are not so much interested in teaching their tenants about looking after beer, as they are in screwing every last penny out of them. It also has to be said that many new entrants to the licensed trade are rather wet behind the ears when it comes to looking after beer, and as some don’t even drink the stuff, how can they possibly know whether they are letting a good, a bad or an indifferent pint over the bar when you the customer walk into their pub and order a beer?

Fortunately there are industry-led organisations such as Cask Marque, who provide training and advice to publicans and bar staff, so all is not lost. Cask Marque, and individual breweries, not only teach licensees how to look after cask-beer properly, but also stress the importance of fast turnover. Because traditional casks are open to the air, it is essential that the beer within them is consumed within a few days. Three days is ideal, five will just about be ok, but anything above this and there is a serious risk of flat, oxidised, off-flavoured beer which is sufficient reason for a seasoned drinker to hand his or her pint back and,  as I said above, enough to put a newbie off real ale for life!

That’s cask beer dealt with, so what about brewery-conditioned “keg” beers? Surely these are foolproof? Well, not always. True they are much more robust compared to cask-conditioned beers; there is no “live” yeast to worry about, and as they are stored in sealed containers under a blanket of CO2 gas at all times, they are not exposed to the oxidising effects of the air. Even so they can still be spoilt by careless handling and sloppy hygiene practices. The pipes, which deliver the beer from the keg to the bar tap, still require cleaning as despite keg beers being both filtered and pasteurised, there is still a tiny amount of residual yeast present which can, over time, lodge in the beer lines and associated fittings, and multiply so that eventually off-tastes and even haziness can appear within the beer.

Then there’s the vexed question of temperature. The Australians and, to a lesser extent, the Americans have a lot to answer for in this respect. Nobody likes a warm beer, and the myth that the English drink warm beer is one which thankfully has now been well and truly laid to rest. However, whilst a warm beer is an unpleasant drink, an ice-cold beer is equally repellent. Although lager-style beers are designed to be drunk cold, they should not be drunk at a temperature that is so cold it makes one’s teeth rattle. On a visit to the historic Pilsner Urquell Brewery, in the city of Pilsen last summer, I was surprised to see on the wall of the brewery restaurant a prominent illuminated digital thermometer, displaying the temperature of 7°C with a notice underneath proclaiming that all beer served on the premises, was stored and served at a constant temperature of 7°C. This apparently, is the optimum temperature for the enjoyment of Pilsner-style beers. Go much above this figure and the beer starts to taste flabby and warm, but go too far in the opposite direction and the beer loses its subtle flavours as well as its aroma. Try telling that to the clowns who came up with the concept of “Extra Cold”! Actually they are probably the same people responsible for the daft adverts for Fosters, think - “Well you wouldn’t want a warm one would you?”

My answer is “No, of course I wouldn’t want a warm lager, but then neither would I want one which is so icy cold and close to freezing that it sets my teeth on edge, and is totally devoid of any flavour!” Fortunately this daft fad, which in JDW outlets at least, also involved a digital thermometer showing the temperature hovering around freezing point, seems to have died a death. I don’t recall seeing it Wetherspoons recently, but I may be mistaken.

Cask-conditioned, real ales should be served at a slightly higher temperature than lagers. Being top-fermented, they need to be kept and served at a temperature that reflects the slightly warmer conditions they were fermented at. It used to be said that the optimum temperature for serving top-fermented, cask-conditioned beers was 10° -15° C, with 13° C the ideal. In recent years, especially with the advent of the paler, hoppy Golden Ale style of beer, the optimum temperature seems to have dropped to 11° C. Again, Wetherspoons seem to have led the way here, with not only adequate cellar cooling, now virtually de rigueur for pub cellars, but also with insulated cellar pipes and jacketed cooling around the hand pump cylinder at the point of dispense.

I must admit that being a little “old school”, and being brought up on beer which was served at the older, slightly higher temperature, chilled cask beer took a bit of getting used to, but now it is something I welcome, especially during the summer months.

To sum up then, in order to satisfy even the most discerning of consumers, the beer must be bright and clear so to look appealing in the glass. It must be served at the correct temperature, with the correct amount of condition and must not have any off-flavours or nasty tastes and smells. In short, it should be presented and served to the customer in the condition its creator (in this instance the brewer), intended. It’s not hard is it??

Playing It Safe

 

On more than one occasion in the past I’ve complained about just how “conservative” many pub landlords are when it comes to choosing which beers to stock. I’m often amazed whilst visiting pubs up and down the country at just what a narrow range of beers many of them stock, with tried and trusted, well-known brands more often than not the order of the day.

This uniformity, and lack of choice, has been a particular bug-bear of mine for some time, but just recently I’ve started to wonder whether the blame for this curse of “sameness” is as much, if not more, the fault of the nation’s drinkers, rather than hard-pressed licensees. The thing which really got me wondering about this was my experience in Norfolk, last weekend, where I found the guest ale in the pub I was visiting to be past its best, whilst the regular (and well-known) local beers were in excellent nick.

This is not the first time I have experienced such a thing, and I have to say that if in a well-run, and often Good Beer Guide-listed pub the better known, familiar brands are all in first class condition, whilst the unusual “guest ale” is not, then the fault lies more with the pub’s drinkers, who are reluctant to try something a little different, than it does with the unfortunate landlord. I say unfortunate, because in this kind of situation we have someone who is clearly trying his or her best to provide something a bit different for the customers, and they are just turning their noses up at it, sometimes literally!

This point was brought home to me back in the summer, when a well-known local pub, (I won’t say which one), was holding one of several beer festivals it puts on throughout the year. This particular festival had a London theme, with all the beers coming from the new wave of independent breweries which have sprung up in the capital during the last few years. Despite an average of eight different and, it must be said, very good beers on sale at any one time, a significant number of the pub’s regulars were unhappy that their favourite tipple (Harvey’s Sussex Best), had been taken off to make way for the festival beers. In order to placate them, one member of the bar staff was making trips down to the cellar to draw off pints of Harvey’s for them, direct from the cask!

Of course it could be argued that the sensible thing here would be to have had the Harvey’s on alongside the festival beers, thereby keeping both the stick-in-the-mud locals, and the more adventurous festival goers happy. However, it seems that a substantial number of people are either afraid to try something a little different, or are so stuck in their comfort zones that any attempts by pub landlords to tempt them with something new are doomed to failure. Small wonder then that many publicans don’t bother trying at all or, having tried a couple of times, give up and stick with the likes of Bombardier, Doom Bar, Old Speckled Hen et al.

Although we all know pubs where this situation does not apply, they tend to be places which major on offering a wide and varied selection of different beers, as well as other drinks such as ciders and perry. Your average back street local, or your traditional village pub, is still likely to stick with “safe” brands, rather than something a little more adventurous, purely so as not to offend, or even alienate, the regulars. Most pubs do not have the luxury (if that’s the right word?) of having significant numbers of beer geeks or CAMRA members amongst their regular clientele to be able to stick their necks out, for a long enough period, to make these changes, wean the customers off their regular beer and cajole them into trying something different.

The daft thing is though that given a little encouragement, coupled with a bit of subtle education, people can quite often be persuaded to step out of their comfort zone and try something new, whether it’s the latest offering from the micro-brewery down the road, or a beer from the new craft brewery in the next town. Unfortunately, whilst this is happening in some of our major towns and cities, it is not occurring elsewhere and the end result is more of the same, “safe” boring beers. This in turn leads to less outlets being available to stock the new and exciting beers, thereby restricting their access to the market place.

So are heading towards a two-tier system in Britain, where trendy craft-beer bars and “exhibition-type” real ale pubs cater for beer geeks and the ticking fraternity, whilst the remainder of the nation’s rapidly dwindling pub-stock cater for people who just want a place they can go to socialise, and where the drink on sale is secondary, and in some cases almost immaterial? OR should there be some attempt to bring these diametrically opposed groups (and drinking establishments) together?

It can be done through things like education, increased travel, (both at home and abroad), but it may prove a lengthy process. To a certain extent the process is already occurring (witness the vastly increased range of beers available at your local supermarket, and contrast it to the situation 10-20 years ago, and you will see what I mean). However, if we travel too far along this road we risk the same sort of homogenisation I was referring to earlier, and what I was trying to avoid. Many people though are happy as they are (and there’s nothing wrong with that, of course!), and are content to carry on drinking their favourite, often boring beers, whether they be Doom Bar or Fosters. After all, diversity and variety is what makes the appreciation and enjoyment of beer the experience it is today.

A couple of final thoughts on the subject; there have been suggestions recently that CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide has morphed into something of a “guest beer guide”. This has come about because local branches, keen to demonstrate the diversity of different beers within their particular branch areas will, all things being equal, tend to select pubs which offer a greater choice of ales over those that just offer a single boring “brown” beer. Forty years ago, when the guide was first published, real ale was hard to find and pubs which sold any cask beer at all, irrespective of quality, were likely to be included. I certainly believe the GBG no longer fulfils its original purpose, and has long outlived its usefulness.

Last, whilst I obviously appreciate the availability of a good variety of beer in a pub; given the right occasion, the right people, the right pub and the right set of circumstances, an excellent time can be had in a place which just offers a “safe” beer, but obviously the whole experience would be even better if the beer selection was that little bit more exciting.

A Brief Visit to Norfolk

It was nice to get away last weekend and swap the hustle and bustle of the crowded South East for the quiet of rural Norfolk. An overdue visit to my parents was the reason for my getaway, and whilst my trip didn’t leave a lot of time for beer, I still managed a few pints on the Saturday evening.

My parents live in a fairly large, but quite strung-out village called Swanton Morley, which lies about three miles to the north-east of Dereham. They have lived there for the past twenty years or so, having moved to Norfolk, from Kent, following my father’s retirement. I suppose they could now be counted as locals, despite not having been born and raised in the county, and they seem to like where they are living. I hadn’t visited since the spring, so it was nice to spend some time with them and catch up on what had been going on.

I didn’t spend the night at their place. My mother hasn’t been in the best of health recently, and I did not want to add to her workload. Instead I put up at a very nice bed and breakfast place in the nearby village of Elsing. Bartles Lodge, not only offers overnight accommodation, but also caters for fishermen, offering fishing for species such as carp, tench, bream, perch, rudd and roach on three lakes located within the grounds.  It is situated right in the centre of the village, opposite the imposing church and right next to the village pub; the Mermaid Inn.

I have stayed at Bartles before, and have drunk, and eaten, in the Mermaid. On this occasion I had eaten at my parents, but on returning to the B & B, was still eager for a few pints to round off the evening. It was gone nine when I finally arrived at the Good Beer Guide-listed pub. There were around a dozen or so people inside; some sitting down enjoying a meal, whilst others were stood at the bar. At the far end, a mixed group of youngsters were enjoying a game of pool, but everything seemed nice and relaxed.

Four cask ales were on sale; two from Woodfordes (Wherry and Nelson’s Revenge), along with Adnam’s Broadside and guest ale - Viking Bitter, from Rudgate. I opted for the latter to start with, and after paying for my pint, I went and sat down in one of the comfortable chairs close to the fireplace, in order to enjoy my beer. Unfortunately the Rudgate wasn’t quite up to scratch, and if anything was a little “tired”. The beer wasn’t bad enough to return, but as my first pint of the day, and an eagerly anticipated one at that, it was rather disappointing.

Unperturbed, I decided to make the most of the indifferent pint, and settled down in front of the cosy wood-burning stove, and began to read the day’s  Daily Telegraph, plus associated supplements. As I mentioned earlier, the pub was reasonably busy, but not bursting at the seams either. The Mermaid is a comfortable pub, which dates back to the 17^th Century. It consists of a single, long room with the fireplace at one end, and the pool table at the other. Despite the presence of the hand pumps on the bar, all cask beers are served by gravity, from a separate room behind the bar.

After my disappointment with the Rudgate, I opted for something more local, and hopefully safer.  Despite their popularity and widespread availability throughout Norfolk, I have never been a huge fan of Woodforde’s. I went for the Broadside instead, which proved a wise choice, as the beer was in tip-top condition and made up for the poor first pint. I ended up having two pints of it, enjoying the warming glow from both the beer and the stove. The landlady wandered over for a brief chat, which was a nice welcoming gesture on her part. I told her I was staying at the lodge next door, and I imagine both establishments derive mutual benefit from being so close to one another.

I left, shortly before closing time, but after most of the customers had drifted off. I was feeling tired and in need of a good night’s sleep (which I had at the Lodge). Although my visit had been a brief one, it was nice to have spent a bit of time in a very pleasant and welcoming village pub. Sure there was nothing overly special about the range of beer, but sometimes (quite often in fact), there are other, more important factors that make a pub what it is. I am pleased that I experienced these “special qualities” last Saturday, at the Mermaid in Elsing.

The Good Old Days?

“Until the 18^th century, or even later, beer was the staple drink of most men and women at all levels of society. Tea and coffee were expensive luxuries; while water might well carry disease. To supply the needs of both owners and servants, every country house with an accessible source of water had a brewhouse, usually close at hand."

“Country House Brewing in England 1500 – 1900” shows the role beer played in the life of the country house, with beer allowances and beer money an integral part of servant’s rewards. Generous allowances were made for arduous tasks such as harvesting. For celebrations such as the heir’s coming of age, extra-strong ale was provided. This book, which is heavily illustrated, is an important and original contribution to architectural, brewing and social history.”

I’m reading a very interesting book at present. It’s titled “Country House Brewing in England 1500 – 1900”. It was given to me back in the summer by a former customer of the Cask & Glass who, knowing my interest in all things beer, thought of me when he was having a clear-out at home. It’s a hardback book which runs to over 300 pages, by the time all the indices and appendixes are taken into account. Being what can only be described as a “learned treatise” it’s quite heavy going, which explains why I’m only just half-way through it, but given the amount of research that author Pamela Sambrook has put into the book, coupled with the astonishing amount of detail, this is hardly surprising.

The period covered by the book begins with the changes wrought by the dissolution of the monasteries. King Henry VIIIth's tour of destruction ended centuries of monastic brewing in England, and led to the establishment of breweries in large country houses, which themselves had evolved from former manor houses. As the nation slowly became wealthier, and conditions became more peaceful, the homes of the landed gentry were increased in size and became more and more opulent. The number of servants and retainers needed to run such establishments also increased, and large estates grew up to support these palatial piles.

Country houses were, by and large, self-sufficient in so far as they were supplied with foodstuffs from the farms on the estate. They also baked their own bread and, of course, brewed their own beer. Lots of beer, in fact, enough to satisfy the entire household and the myriad of servants employed therein. From simple beginnings, brewhouses attached to the local country pile slowly became more advanced, although they rarely matched the sophistication of their commercial counterparts. Even so, many of the larger establishments had separate and well-designed brewhouses capable of turning out substantial quantities of ale and beer. These quantities of course, varied according to the size and wealth of the house, but figures in the region of 400 gallons of ale and double this amount of beer every month, were not unusual!

Note the terms “ale” and “beer”. The former was a much stronger drink, produced from the first runnings from the mash tun, whereas the drink referred to as "beer" was produced from the second or third runnings, and as such was considerably weaker. Beer was the everyday drink of the household, and in particular that of the servants, whilst ale was the preserve of the lord/duke/squire etc and his family. Being considerably stronger, ale also required a much longer period of maturation before it was ready to drink.

Fast forward from the peak of country house brewing, during the latter part of the 18^th and the early part of the 19^th centuries, to the early part of the last century, and brewing in the remaining great country houses was in terminal decline. This dramatic fall-off was aided and abetted by drinks such as tea and coffee which were far easier to prepare, and which also had a far less soporific effect on household staff. Other factors, such as paying employees a proper living wage in cash, rather than a much lower remuneration which included a generous allowance of beer, also contributed to the decline. The effects of two devastating world wars were the final nail in the coffin of private brewing.

As I said I’m still halfway through the book, but the section I’m reading now which describes the faults and afflictions which could often arise in domestic beer, and some of the equally foul ways in which these defects were counteracted, makes me glad for modern, hygienic brewing practices, rather than any romantic notions I may once have entertained about beer in the “good old days”. Fascinating stuff, as they say, and there’s more to come. For anyone with more than a passing interest in domestic brewing, this is a volume which is well getting hold of.

 “Country House Brewing in England 1500 – 1900”. Author - Pamela Sambrook. Published by The Hambledon Press. ISBN 1 85285 127 9

Waitrose Deal Still Available

The deal on selected beers at Waitrose that I mentioned earlier is still on. Not only can you get virtually the full range of beers from Fuller’s at four bottles for £6, but beers from the likes of Badger, Bath Ales, Brains, Black Sheep, Duchy Originals, Hog’s Back and Hook Norton are also available at the same price. Even better, you can mix and match across the entire range of the offer!

Also worth snapping up are the 750ml bottles of Meantime India Pale Ale and London Porter. At 20% off the normal price, they work out at just £4.16 and £4.04 respectively.

I am surprised, but obviously delighted, the offer is still running, as I hinted earlier  it may be coming to an end soon. It might still pay you then to get down to Waitrose sooner, rather than later, especially if you want to stock up on these beers before the offer ends.

Some Seasonal Thoughts for Late Autumn

There’s not a lot to blog about at the moment. Summer is well and truly over, and even autumn seems to be passing with alarming speed. Now, with winter just around the corner, it’s a pretty quiet time of year, even though the countdown to Christmas is well under way. This is especially true in the retail trade where Christmas goodies (and also a lot of Christmas tat), seem to appear earlier and earlier each year. Also it’s the time of year when events such as Christmas parties and dinners are also planned and booked up in advance. In my own case I’ve got our company Christmas dinner to look forward to, followed by our local CAMRA branch dinner a couple of days later. I perhaps should go on a diet in the weeks leading up to these events; otherwise I’ll be finding that much of my wardrobe doesn’t fit me any more!

Speaking of CAMRA, towards the end of this month we’ve got our branch AGM coming up. This year we’ll be holding it at Tunbridge Wells Constitutional Club; a venue which won the Kent Club of the Year award, for 2013. The AGM is always well worth attending for a look back at what the branch has been up to over the past year, and to look ahead, formulate policy and decide the way forward for the coming year. There are also, of course, matters like approval of the branch accounts and election of officers to sort out. As an incentive to encourage members to attend, there is normally a free buffet. The meeting usually ends with nominations for the following year’s Good Beer Guide which, seeing as surveying and selection is done almost a year in advance, will be the 2015 edition. I don’t intend taking much part in the latter part of the meeting, as my thoughts on the Good Beer Guide are well-known, but I might stick around for the pub-crawl which traditionally takes place after the meeting has ended.

Moving on to the closely allied subject of beer, I’ve noticed a distinct lack of dark ales gracing the counters of local pubs, although the Punch & Judy did have Caledonian Poltergeist Porter on sale the other night. As in previous years though, I’m late in tracking down one of my favourite dark ales, namely Harvey’s Old Ale. This delicious, seasonal dark ale has been out for over a month now, but I still haven’t come across any. Unfortunately, due to a prior engagement, I missed the branch bus trip to Lewes, last weekend, where I’m assured there was Old Ale a plenty. The beer seems mainly confined to Harvey’s tied houses, although I do know from past experience that it is available for the free trade. It seems though that many licensees prefer to play things safe and stick to tried and tested bitter brands, rather than stick their necks out slightly and try something different. I’m certain they would have no trouble in shifting a darker ale, it just looks like they are afraid to move too far out of their comfort zone!

This coming week should see the welcome appearance of another favourite dark ale of mine, in the form of Larkins Porter. I know Bob has brewed a batch, but I also know that like every year, he likes to let the beer mature for six weeks, in tank and cask, before releasing it to an eager public. Bonfire night is usually the time for this dark and delicious, full-bodied beer to appear, so I will be looking out for it with great anticipation.

At the end of the month, the Bailey family are off to Prague for a long weekend, to enjoy the splendours of the Czech capital, and also to experience the city’s Christmas Markets, which set up their stalls around this time. Needless to say there should also be plenty of opportunity to enjoy some of Bohemia’s finest beers, in some atmospheric and unspoilt pubs. A full report will follow when the time comes.

Well that’s about it for the moment, with nothing particularly of note to report, apart from me continuing to stock up on beers for Christmas.

The Best Laid Plans??

It’s often said that the best laid plans go astray, and this certainly proved to be the case on our visit to London on Saturday. Mind you, the plans we had weren’t exactly set in stone, and when they did begin to go awry, a bit of quick thinking helped save the day on a couple of occasions.

It was my son Matthew’s idea to have a day in the big city. Saturday made sense as my wife was also visiting the capital, in conjunction with a group of her girly friends. They were going to the theatre; we were doing something far more decadent, namely visiting a few choice pubs, and hopefully enjoying a few good beers.

In order to experience something slightly different, Matthew had requested we travel up not via our usual direct Tonbridge – London Bridge – Charing Cross route, but by means of the Sevenoaks – Blackfriars route instead. I agreed to this suggestion, even though the journey would take twice as long as usual. So after changing trains at Sevenoaks, and a pleasant journey along the scenic Darenth Valley, we had the dubious delights of Bickley, Beckenham, Catford and Elephant & Castle to view, out of the carriage window, before finally arriving at an enhanced, and considerably enhanced Blackfriars station.

As I said earlier, we didn’t have any firm plans, apart from heading north up to Finchley Road and Hampstead, in order to see where my parents originated from, and where I spent the first three years of my life. I did however, want to take in a few “craft beer bars”, rather than sticking to tried and trusted favourites like the Market Porter and the Harp. Exiting the ultra modern station and heading in a northerly direction, brought the wedge-shaped Blackfriar pub into view, and I couldn’t resist the temptation of popping in for an inside view of this wonderfully eccentric, art-nouveau pub. Now part of the Nicholson’s chain, the Blackfriar had several interesting looking ales on sale, as part of the company’s current “beer festival” promotion. The Truman’s US Pale caught my eye, but as it was only just after 11am, I decided a half would be more appropriate for that time of the morning.  Matthew, of course, stuck to his lager – Carlsberg or Carling; I can’t remember which, and I don’t suppose he can either!

The pub was virtually empty, so we had the pick of the tables and chose one towards the back of the pub, admiring the bronze relief carvings of the monks, along with the ornate marble pillars and arches. Our peaceful contemplation of this late Victorian masterpiece was not to last, as not long after we had sat down, what can only be described as a “tidal wave” of yummy-mummies, accompanied by compliant “dadsies”, pushed their way into the pub, along with various buggies, infants strapped in shoulder slings, alongside the walking and slightly older “little darlings”, and proceeded to grab all the remaining tables and chairs, marooning us in a sea of pushy parenting hell!

This was our cue to leave, and we were both glad that we’d opted for pints rather than halves. I rather half-heartedly thought about asking what the occasion was, but thought better of it in our rush to escape the mayhem and get out into the open air. The pub seemed a strange choice of venue for a child’s birthday party, and besides it was rather too early in the day for that sort of celebration. Relieved to have escaped, we walked up towards Fleet Street, as Matt wanted to re-visit the Cheshire Cheese. I also fancied some bargain-priced Sam Smiths in the timeless surroundings of this classic old pub.

It was not to be; the Cheese was well and truly shut. Whether it opened later, say at midday, was a mystery, as there were no opening hours displayed outside the pub – surely a strange omission for a place that is a popular, “must visit” tourist destination?

After two (OK, one and a half), failed attempts at traditional, it was time for some “craft”, and where better than to put his to the test than the Euston Tap, a short train ride and walk away? Now I’m slightly ashamed to say that I’ve never been to the “Tap”. I’ve obviously read  quite a bit about it, and I’d also checked up beforehand on the place, using Des de Moor’s excellent “London’s Best Beer, Pubs and Bars”, a copy of which was in my rucksack. I therefore knew the pub was on the small side, and that it is popular with beer connoisseurs from far and wide.

Its popularity was not in doubt when we stepped inside, a situation made worse by groups of people hogging the bar. Their presence made it difficult to see exactly what was on tap, and although there were chalk boards, behind the bar, advertising what was available, my eyesight is such these days that in the dim light it was nigh impossible to read them. Now we could have stayed, pushed our way through to the bar and enquired further about the beers from the bar staff, but the very fact these ignoramuses were blocking the way, coupled with the fact that Matt had taken an instant dislike to the place, prompted us to about turn and leave. The “Tap” may serve great beer, but I have to say it had all the atmosphere of a hospital waiting room. Nevertheless I am prepared to give the place another try, next time I am in the area.

With Euston station, and the Northern line a stone’s throw away, we were able to jump on a tube and make our way towards Hampstead. It was raining when we arrived in this fashionable (and expensive) part of town, which put paid to my plan of walking across the Heath to the Spaniards Inn. Instead we headed for another old favourite of mine, the unspoilt Holly Bush, now owned by Fuller’s. The Bush seemed larger than I remember, although I understand it had been extended in recent times to incorporate some rooms which were not part of the original pub. I have to say though, that whoever carried out the work has made an extremely good job of it, and it was nigh on impossible to tell which parts were original (apart from the bar that is!), and which were not.

After purchasing our drinks, we opted for the large room behind the bar, away from the open fireplace which was giving out rather too much heat for the mild weather. I chose Wild River, Fuller’s American-style pale ale, whilst Matt went for Frontier, the brewery’s new “craft” lager. I had a taste of this beer and found it full-bodied and rather good. My Wild River was also equally enjoyable.

It had stopped raining by the time we left the Holly Bush, but time was marching on. A walk across the Heath was now out of the question, so instead we made our way down Hampstead High Street to Hampstead station. After a quick one stop journey to Finchley Road and Frognal, for a look at my grandmother’s old house, it was back on the train, destination Stratford. We had a bit of shopping to do, and the large Westfield Shopping Centre at Stratford seemed ideal for this. The centre is also home to a brew-pub called Tap East, which I believe has a connection with the same people who run Utobeer and the Rake at Southwark’s Borough Market.

Unfortunately after boarding the train, we became aware that due to engineering works on the London Overground, trains would be terminating at Highbury and Islington – an area of London I am totally unfamiliar with. Upon reaching said station, we took the decision to jump on a southbound train in order to alight at Wapping. We were feeling hungry by now, and a quick look through Des’s guide had revealed that the Town of Ramsgate, a well-known riverside pub on Wapping High Street, served food of the pub-grub variety, as well as a reasonable selection of beer.

After initially turning the wrong way out of Wapping Underground station, we eventually found our way to the Town of Ramsgate. The CAMRA guide was right, and it turned out to be a very pleasant pub; long and narrow in its layout, with a terraced area at the rear overlooking the River Thames. The beer range was fairly standard, apart from the Wye Valley HPA, which turned out to be a good choice; pale and fruity, with a good hop bite. Also good was the homemade chicken and leek pie, served with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables. As we sat there enjoying our meal, we noticed the barman setting out a long table, opposite where we were sitting. I asked him if they were expecting a crowd in later, and he told us that the pub is on several tourist circuits, and they receive quite a lot of pre-booked trade from coach companies. The pub’s history and riverside location appeals to foreign visitors especially, and there is obviously a good trade to be had from this attraction.

Suitably fed and watered, we headed off, by tube, to Canary Wharf, where we able to do the shopping we had wanted to do earlier. Then it was a very cramped and crowded underground journey back to London Bridge for our last port of call, the Rake at Borough market. I had a slightly ulterior motive for calling in here as according to the Rake’s Facebook page Oktoberfest beers were on offer at two pints for the price of one, providing one used a phone App called appropriately enough "I Love Free Beer". Unfortunately after ordering the beer I couldn’t get the wretched App to work, despite having connected to the pub’s free Wi-Fi network. (I later found out it was due to a glitch with the GPS system on my phone). We therefore had no choice but to cough up £13.20 for our two pints of Löwenbräu Oktoberfest, which is definitely the most I have paid for a pint of beer outside of Scandinavia.

The beer was good, but not that good, but I wasn’t going to let a glitch with a phone App spoil the end of our day out. Even so, we decided to make that the last beer of the day, especially as I received a text from my wife saying she was on the train home herself. Looking back we probably spent more time travelling than we spent in the pub, but at least we got to see some different parts of London and had some enjoyable beers as well.

Stocking up for Christmas

 

I’ve been quietly taking advantage of various supermarket offers in order to stock up on beers for Christmas. Yes I know it’s still two months away at present, but as usual I want to make sure I’ve something decent to drink in the house over the festive period.

First and foremost of these offers is the one running in Waitrose, which I think will probably be ending soon. Beers from several well-known brewers are available at four for £6.00, and as Fuller’s are included in this offer, I’ve stocked up on London Porter, Bengal Lancer and 1845. The latter is a particularly good bargain at this price, especially as it is an excellent  beer to accompany one’s Christmas dinner.

I will, of course, be keeping an eye out for offers from the other supermarkets, but I will also be using our planned trip to Prague, in early December to bring back a few Czech specials to supplement my Christmas stock.

Full Steam Ahead

The excesses of the weekend’s Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival are gradually fading, and my aching body is slowly recovering. When I say “excesses” I am referring to the sheer physical hard work of getting all the beer racked up, tapping and spiling it and then, once it had reached tip-top condition, serving it to the hordes of thirsty punters. I am not referring to having consumed too much of  the stuff myself, as there just wasn’t time to indulge in more than a few glasses, as it was so busy behind the various bars. Obviously this can only be described as a good thing, and both West Kent CAMRA, and all the volunteers from our Spa Valley Railway hosts, can pat themselves on the back following a job well-done.

So despite upping the beer order by 50% on what we had last year, we still sold out, and had it not been for a handful of gallant suppliers, who came forward at the last minute and replenished some of our stocks, there would have been precious little beer left for Sunday’s festival goers to enjoy! 

The festival opened on Friday 18^th, but owing to work and other commitments I wasn’t able to attend until the Saturday. I had asked to work further down the line, either at Groombridge or Eridge stations, where there were additional bars set up to provide beer to thirsty visitors travelling up and down the line between the latter station and Tunbridge Wells West. The majority of the sixty or so beers were housed in the historic engine shed at Tunbridge Wells West, which acts as the Spa Valley’s headquarters. Six were positioned at Groombridge, in a marquee just along from the booking office, whilst a further four were at the far end of the line, in the waiting room, on Spa Valley’s platform, at Eridge station  - a facility they share with national rail operator, Southern Trains. In addition, four more beers were stillaged in “Kate”, the railways award-winning and lovingly restored dining car.

I ended up at Groombridge, where I joined two other CAMRA colleagues. It was a funny sort of day as we had spells of frantic activity coinciding with the arrival of a train, followed by periods of relative calm. The latter at least enabled me to sample all six of the beers we had on sale, namely Sambrook’s Wandle; King’s Brighton Blonde; Westerham Freedom Ale; Portobello Star; Ramsgate Gadd’s No.3 and Arundel Trident. We also had a plastic cask of Bushel’s Cider, from Biddenden.  Hot food, in the form of chicken curry, lasagne and macaroni cheese, was available at the station, along with cups of tea, coffee, sandwiches and cake at the railway’s refreshment kiosk on the platform. 

As I said, things got a bit frantic at times, but as the day wore on, and the punters started to tail off, so did the beer. By about 7pm we had virtually sold out, although there were a couple of pints of Trident left. It was just as well there was precious little beer left, as no-one had thought to provide lighting inside the marquee. Fortunately one of my colleagues had come equipped with a battery-operated LED light, which at least enabled us to see what we were doing, and to ensure we took the correct tokens and gave the right “change”.

With the beer virtually all gone, and having to fumble around in the dark, we took the decision to close the bar, secure the tent and get the boxes of glasses and other paraphernalia out onto the platform, ready to load onto the 8pm train back to Tunbridge Wells. Unbeknown to us, the down train had suffered a breakdown shortly after leaving Tunbridge Wells. Before going any further, I ought to explain that the festival was also billed as “The Autumn Diesel Gala”, and  because of this the railway had four different diesel locomotives in operation. These ranged from a moderately sized shunter to a large former Inter-City loco. No doubt railway buffs would have described them better, but as I really don’t know the difference between the various types of engine, these descriptions will have to suffice.

Call me old fashioned, but on a preserved railway I much prefer to see steam haulage in operation. Steam locomotives have heart and soul; qualities that seem lacking in their diesel counterparts. The former are also more reliable, once they are in steam and up and running. This proved the case on Saturday evening, and although we were kept informed by the station master, it was approaching 9pm when our train finally arrived to ferry us back to Tunbridge Wells.

In the meantime, things had been equally manic in the engine shed. By the time we arrived back, the stillages were looking very depleted, with around two thirds of the beers totally sold out, and the remaining casks steeply stooped, indicating they would not be lasting long come the morning. It was here that our gallant saviours in the form of Tonbridge Brewery, plus Sankey’s Bar, stepped up to the plate and provided us with some replacement stocks of beer which were hastily racked and spiled, ready for tapping the next day. What was extremely frustrating from my own, admittedly selfish, point of view was that having been down at Groombridge all day, by the time I’d returned to Tunbridge Wells, most of the “interesting” beers I had been keen to try had completely sold out! The four beers stillaged in “Kate” had also been drunk dry.

The following morning I was back at the Engine Shed, a little later than the previous day, but not that much.  Along with a couple of friends, I was dispatched down to Groombridge to collect a cask of Kent Brewery Zingibeer, which was needed for the dining car, and then on down to  Eridge to pick up the remaining boxes of empty glasses. This was my first visit to Eridge during the festival, and I can now see why increasing the number of beers here for next year could be difficult. Due to the confines of the narrow island platform, there is barely sufficient room for the four cask stillage in waiting room, and finding an alternative and secure home for the beer might prove tricky.

After collecting the full cask from Groombridge, and carefully placing it on the stillage in “Kate”, it was back up the line to Tunbridge Wells. I decided to stay on the train and help out with serving the beer. The only one available was another cask of Zingibeer that had been racked up and tapped the night before. Fortunately it had dropped bright and was in good condition. We had somehow ended up with four casks of this slightly unusual, but quite refreshing Kent Brewery beer. It had been part of the emergency supplies obtained the night before, and had arrived courtesy of Sankey’s, in Tunbridge Wells. Despite it being the only beer available on the train it nevertheless proved pretty popular, and my colleague and I were kept quite busy dispensing glasses of it as we travelled up and down the line. The busiest times were just after departing from the stations, when the train had picked up a fresh load of thirsty passengers. It was a bit of a challenge serving beer from our makeshift stillage in a moving buffet car, but the biggest challenge was when I had to tap and spile the other cask whilst the train was in motion. With the help of a couple of bar towels, and a drip-tray on the floor, I managed this task without spilling a drop.

Another couple of volunteers took over from us, mid-afternoon, and I returned to t he train shed to help out behind the bar and enjoy what was left of the beers. A local rock band were keeping the crowd entertained, but we still had our work cut out behind the bar, keeping everyone served. One by one the casks started to run dry, until by just after 5pm, there was no beer left and we were down to two mini-pins; one of cider and the other of perry. Eventually these too were exhausted, and the crowds slowly began to drift away.

That was that and the end of the festival for another year. It is too early to say what we will do next year, but whatever happens the beer order will need to be significantly increased.

Meantime Greenwich Smoked Bock Beer

Brewed exclusively for Marks & Spencer by Meantime Brewing Co, Alastair Hook and his team have put their own slant on this strong, smoked, bock-style beer. According to the label, “This beer is brewed using smoked and Munich malts to create the perfect balance of smokiness and malt sweetness, and is inspired by the strong Bock beers of Bavaria.” It weighs in at 6.0%, but drinks below this strength, which could be dangerous!

I left mine in the fridge a shade too long, which tended to mask the aromas and flavours somewhat, but once it had warmed up a bit, and the smokiness and sweet maltiness, were released, it improved no end, and was enjoyable right to the last drop. Not as intensely smoky as world classic, Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier from Bamberg, but probably smokier than the Spezial Lagerbier from the same city.

This is definitely a very good beer, and one I will be stocking up on, especially as it’s priced at just £2.29 a bottle.

At Last a Decent Pub for Tonbridge?

For many years now Tonbridge has been crying out for a really good pub, or at least South Tonbridge has  Those of you who have read my Four- Part Series on Tonbridge Pubs will know what I am talking about. The town centre has Wetherspoons, in the guise of the Humphrey Bean which, whilst not qualifying as a cosy intimate local where one could meet up with friends for a quiet drink, does offer a good variety of different ales (as well as other drinks), of the sort that are seldom seen elsewhere in the locality. Close by are the Chequers and the Man of Kent, both locals' pubs with the former dating back to the Middle Ages, and the latter probably to early Victorian times. Both are full of character and decent enough boozers, but both are somewhat restrictive in their choice of ale. (London Pride at the Chequers and Harvey’s plus Tonbridge Brewery at the Man of Kent).

A bit further on from these three establishments, past Tonbridge School, at the start of Shipbourne Road, is the George & Dragon. The pub is again, quite an old building, but one which has been modernised internally and altered quite considerably in recent years. Slightly more adventurous in its choice of beer than the Chequers and the Man of Kent, the George & Dragon still restricts itself to “safe” beers in the form of Wells Bombardier and Harvey’s (nothing wrong with Harvey’s, but it would be nice to see some of their seasonal beers appearing in the free trade from time to time).

So that’s the central Tonbridge catered for, and to a certain extent the beginning of the northern part of the town, but what about south Tonbridge, which is the area of the town where I live? Well last Saturday I met up with my friend and old walking partner, Eric down at the Punch and Judy in St Stephen’s Street. It was Eric’s suggestion we meet there, which suited both of us as it is just five minutes walk for Eric, and fifteen for me. Eric had also been feeding through some good reports about the pub, so I was keen to find out for myself just exactly how good the pub has become.

I arrived shortly after five o’clock; rather early for me to start drinking but Eric was keen not to be home too late, (I’m not sure why!). The pub was heaving and for a moment I thought that my friend had stood me up, but he had been sitting around the corner of the main bar and had spotted me coming in. As I made my way through the crowd, I struggled to see what was on the pub’s four hand pumps. I knew the pub stocked Harvey’s, and alongside their distinctive pump clip, I spotted a beer from Tonbridge Brewery, one from Otter, plus an unknown beer at the far end.

Eric was just about ready for another pint so I got a round in; Otter Amber for me plus Havercake Ale for Eric, this being a new 4.7% beer from Timothy Taylor. The Otter was nice and bitter, and slipped down well, but I was intrigued by the Havercake Ale, so come the next round I opted for this instead.  In the dim-light of the pub it was difficult to judge the true colour of the beer, but it had that distinctive, Timothy Taylor taste. It was so good, that I ended up drinking a further three pints!

So much for the beer, but what about the pub itself? Well after numerous changes of licensee in recent years, things have hopefully settled down with a new couple in charge behind the bar. Garry and his partner Stevie, have run bars between them in places as diverse as Brighton and Spain. What is unusual about this couple is that it is Stevie who puts in the hard work down in the cellar, leaving Garry to do the work upstairs. During a lull in proceedings, Eric introduced me to Stevie. She enthused about her passion for cask beer, and told us how much she enjoyed cellar-work, ensuring that the beer in the Punch & Judy is always served up in tip-top condition. It was refreshing to hear someone so young talking in this manner and someone so keen to share her passion for decent beer. Whilst on the subject of beer, the cask ales at the Punch are all keenly priced, with the Harvey’s and Tonbridge regulars costing just  £3.20 a pint, and the guests £3.50. Northern readers will no doubt baulk at these prices, but for this part of the South East they are very reasonable indeed!

The fact that the pub was as crowded as it was, so early on a Saturday night is testament to the hard work the couple have put in since taking over behind the bar of the Punch. As well as good beer, home-cooked meals are now being served and we were also introduced to the chef, who was being kept busy running up and down the stairs bringing customers their meals. Other attractions of the pub are regular live music evenings and a Wednesday night quiz. There is also a small garden at the rear, although given the deterioration in the weather following the onset of autumn that will not be seeing much use now until spring.

There was a good mix of people in the pub, some of whom I recognised as customers from my old off-licence, and whilst not all of them were drinking the ale, I noticed that many were. This all bodes well for the future of the pub. After a long period of uncertainty, it is good to see the Punch thriving, and I only hope that I am witnessing the re-birth of the pub, rather than yet another false dawn. I will certainly be keeping an eye on the place, and will be popping in whenever I get the chance. It would be nice, after all these years without a pub that I could really call my own, to have a proper local I can drink in once again.

Winds of Change in Germany?

Unlike many European countries these days, Germany does not have a consumers’ organisation which looks after the interests of beer drinkers. This is astonishing for a country where beer is not only such an important drink, but also a vital part of the national psyche.

Here in the UK, the rights of beer drinkers are of course looked after by CAMRA, and following the obvious success of the campaign, similar organisations have sprung up in other parts of Europe. For example, the Netherlands has PINT, Belgium, has XYTHOS, Norway has NORØL and even a small country like Ireland now has its own consumer organisation in the form of Beoir representing the interests of its beer drinkers. So why hasn’t Germany?

The situation is partly historic; Germany was not united as a single nation under one flag until 1871, relatively late compared to most other European nation states. Before that it was a motley collection of independent states ranging from powerful Kingdoms such as Bavaria and Prussia, to much smaller principalities and city states. Then, just 75 years later, the country was again divided, this time into the two unequal halves of East and West Germany for over 40 years, following the end of the Second World War. Even today, the country has a strong federal structure, with the various states which make up the country having a fair degree of autonomy from central government. This situation has led to the market remaining very local, with few, until fairly recently that is, national players.

A federal structure consisting of large, complex and often highly diverse states has led to a highly localised German beer market which is inherently conservative in nature. The existence of the Reinheitsgebot hasn’t helped either. Described as the oldest provision still enforced to protect the consumer, Germany’s famous “Beer Purity Law” is almost 500 years old, having been enacted in 1516 by Duke William I V of Bavaria. Although designed to ensure consumers were only sold beer brewed from malted barley, hops, water and yeast, in more recent times the Reinheitsgebot  has stifled experimentation by preventing other adjuncts and flavourings from being added to the beer.

Bavaria insisted on its application throughout Germany as a precondition of German unification in 1871, to prevent competition from beers brewed elsewhere with a wider range of ingredients. The move encountered strong resistance from brewers outside Bavaria. In the decades that followed unification, the Reinheitsgebot led to the extinction of many brewing traditions and local specialities, and the disappearance of dozens of non- compliant beers by restricting the ingredients allowed in beer. Brews such as North German spiced beer, cherry beer and Leipziger Gose completely vanished, and the German beer market became dominated by pilsener style beers. Only a few regional beer varieties, such as Kölner Kölsch or Düsseldorfer Altbier, survived its implementation.

Although there are of course, notable exceptions and centres of brewing excellence, many German breweries seem content to churn out variations on the same trio of Helles, Dunkles and Weiss Bier. This particularly applies to the new generation of brew-pubs which has sprung up in recent years. Part of the problem is that many of the larger brewers in particular seem to think that hop extract is the same as whole flower or pelleted hops. The original proponents of the Reinheitsgebot would not have recognised the syrupy gloop that is hop extract, and to claim that this material meets the strictures of the “Beer Purity Law” really is pushing the envelope. No one would question the technical ability of most German brewers, but the use of hop extracts really does remove much of the character from a beer, that would have been present had whole or pelleted hops been used instead. If you want to know what I am talking about, think back to Whitbread during the 1980’s. All their breweries, even the older, more traditional ones such as Fremlins, Flowers and Nimmo’s used hop extract; I remember being shown a tin of the stuff on a trip round the Fremlins brewery in Faversham, and thinking what were the company doing using this stuff?

Sticking with the same argument, if hop extract is ok under the Reinheitsgebot, then why not malt extract as well? You know what I am talking about here; that brown, sticky, syrup-like, almost resinous material which forms the basis of most home-brew kits, and produces beers that are appallingly bad. No self respecting brewer would dream of using this stuff, and yet many of them in the Federal Republic are quite happy to use hop extract!

There are encouraging signs that things are slowly changing, and that consumers in one of the world’s leading brewing nations are waking up to the fact there is a whole new world of beer beyond Germany and are increasingly keen to see some of these beers being produced on home turf. Because I am continuing my language studies, I receive various online German news items and updates, many of them beer-related. They all point to a growing awareness of craft beer, and of the many and varied beer styles available elsewhere. All this points to an exciting future for German drinkers, and means that beer hunters will soon have many new and interesting beers to seek out when they visit the Federal Republic.

Before ending, I need to return to the Reinheitsgebot for a moment, and pin my colours to the mast. So far as I am concerned, there is nothing wrong with Bavarian beers. I have enjoyed numerous holidays in this colourful and picturesque region of Germany, and love both the place and its beers. Even in the capital Munich, the products of the city’s large, industrial breweries are still pretty good, and when they are enjoyed in the setting of one of the city’s many beer gardens, they take on a quality all of their own. Having said that, beers from Munich’s two smaller breweries – Augustinerbräu and Hofbräu (both independently owned), stand head and shoulders above those of their larger neighbours, such as Paulaner, Spaten and Löwenbräu, (all now owned by multi-national corporations). Müncheners think so too, and it is no surprise that it is the latter conglomerates who are the most ardent users of hop extract in their beers.

I’ve also enjoyed excellent beer in Regensburg and, of course, that jewel in the brewing crown, Bamberg.  The area of Franconia surrounding Bamberg contains the greatest density of breweries per square kilometre of anywhere in the world, with most towns and villages boasting at least one brewery. It is also home to some of the world’s finest beers – all brewed according to the Reinheitsgebot, but using quality ingredients and time-honoured methods. (This just shows it can be done!).  Many of these beers have a very limited distribution, meaning a trip to this unspoilt region of Germany is necessary to track them down and enjoy them in their native surroundings.

I am more than happy to do this (time and money not withstanding), and it seems that many visitors to Franconia, along with those lucky enough to abide there, feel the same. I have physical evidence of this in the form of a weighty tome I purchased on my recent visit to Forchheim. A 672 page, handsomely-illustrated, full-colour publication entitled FRANKENS BRAUEREIEN (und Brauereigästatten), gives details of all Franconia’s 230 odd breweries and forms an invaluable guide to anyone wishing to sample the beery delights of this rural region. The same two authors have also produced a sister guide to the region’s Bierkellers and Biergärten.

The existence of these guides proves that in Franconia at least, consumers as well as beer connoisseurs are starting to take much more of an interest in local beers. If this can happen in a very conservative area like Franconia, there is now every chance that similar guides to other parts of Germany will also prove successful. I have another publication, this time available in English as well as German, which is a guide to privately-owned brewery guest houses. Titled “Gerne Gast in Privaten Braugasthöfen und Hotels”. There are 69 establishments listed; all members of “The Private Brewing Inns and Hotels Association”. They are scattered throughout Germany, but with an obvious bias towards the southern half of the country, and there are even a handful of entries from Austria, Denmark and Switzerland.

Unlike the Franconian Brewery guide, which is produced by a couple of obvious beer enthusiasts, the latter publication is a trade one. However, whilst the emphasis is more on the hotel and restaurant side of things, there is still a strong beer thread running through the guide, especially as all the outlets featured brew their own beer on the premises, or very close by.

With guides, such as these, now readily available, and a growing appreciation of Germany’s rich brewing heritage, it hopefully won’t be too long before a Teutonic equivalent of CAMRA arrives on the scene. Then Germany can take it rightful place as a fully paid up member of the European Beer Consumers Union.

And the Winner Is?

Well, after starting out with 156 beers back in January, the Sainsbury’s Great British Beer Hunt is over for another year. At the end of last week, Batemans’ B Bock was announced as the winner and Thwaites Crafty Dan as runner up. Both beers will get six month’s listing in selected Sainsbury’s stores, with the winner appearing in 300 outlets and the runner up in 150.

As reported a few weeks ago, I purchased some of the beers which had made it through to the final “head to head” part of the contest. There were 20 beers in total; five from each region - Scotland & Northern Ireland; North; West and East, (I don’t know why there wasn’t a “South” region?). I ended up buying eight of them, and whilst I would have liked to have bought a few more, there were some I just didn’t fancy and others I never actually got round to buying. This was mainly because the “head to head” contest only lasted for three weeks. What follows is a review of the ones I did try, listed in the order in which I drank them.

Hawskhead Windermere Pale 4.0%. A slightly stronger version of the brewery’s best selling cask beer; golden in colour, with a real hoppy nose and character from the Citra hops used in the beer. The label also states that three traditional English hop varieties are used as well.

Verdict – A thirst quenching bitter beer, which is an interesting twist on an established favourite.

William’s Bros. Hipsway 5.0%. A golden coloured lager, flavoured with New Zealand and Slovenian hops (varieties not stated), with added, freshly pressed strawberries.  

Verdict – The strawberries are certainly evident in the background and work well against the “bite” from the hops. An interesting beer, which would be fine for drinking on a hot summer’s afternoon, but apart from that slightly gimmicky and not sufficiently different to make it stand out from the crowd.

Maxim. American Pride India Pale Ale 5.2%. Quite pale in colour, with a good hop aroma, nice mouth feel and just the right amount of bitterness.  

Verdict - A good, all round and well-balanced IPA. Definitely one I wouldn’t mind drinking again.

Harbour Brewing Co. India Pale Ale 5.2%. Amber in colour, with a nice hoppy aroma. Excellent hop flavour, with citrus and spicy flavours from the American hops used.  

Verdict - Another well-balanced and refreshing IPA, which again is well worth re-visiting.

Ridgeway. Querkus 5.8%. Interesting porter, brewed using peat-smoked malt, which is then cold-matured over chunks of old French oak wine barrels (hence the name).

Verdict – Definitely the most interesting beer so far; velvety smooth with a subtle underlying smokiness which emphasises the beer’s slightly oily feel.

Gower Brewery. Gower Gold 4.5%. As its name suggests, burnished gold in colour with lovely citrus aromas from the Cascade hops used.

Verdict – refreshing, well-hopped and eminently drinkable.

Harbour Brewing Co. Porter No. 6.8%. Excellent full-bodied porter with a rich juicy sweetness and roasted coffee flavours from the dark malts used. 

Verdict – Very drinkable, despite its strength. Another winner in my book.

Batemans. B Bock Beer 6.0%. Billed as a Bavarian-style strong ale, this one certainly hits the mark. Dark-brown, very malty, nicely balanced and dangerously drinkable. 

Verdict – Lincolnshire’s slant on a Doppelbock turns out to be a real winner. An excellent beer and my all-round favourite out of the eight Great British Beer Hunt beers sampled. Strangely enough, as reported above, it turned out to be the overall winner!

Batemans also won the contest last year, with their coffee-flavoured, Mocha Beer, which went on to appear in a number of different outlets. The win, and the excellent beer certainly helped to raise the company's profile. It will therefore be interesting to see what the effect of this year's win will have.