Larkin's Best at the Dovecote, Capel

I only found out the other day that local brewer Larkin’s are celebrating their 40^th anniversary this year. I unearthed this milestone whilst ordering a pint of Larkin’s Best in a local firehouse. The pub in question was the Dovecote at Capel, situated in Alders Road, on the back route between Colts Hill and Tudeley. From the outside it is a typical Victorian building, that has been extended at the front and at the side, whilst to the rear there is a part-covered terrace, along with an extensive garden and large carpark. With very few chimney pots in the immediate vicinity, the Dovecote has always needed something different to offer its customers, and it achieves this by selling a wide range of cask beers (up to six), direct from the cask, alongside a selection of what it describes as “good traditional, locally sourced homely food, in a cosy atmosphere”.

I made a brief stop there on Sunday lunchtime, after a check on the local Real Ale Finder app revealed that Larkin’s Best Bitter was on sale at the pub. Larkin’s, I hear you say, what’s so special about that? Larkin’s is available at many pubs in this compact little corner of West Kent, and you’d be right about the brewery, but wrong about the actual beer.  The thing is, Larkin’s Traditional – often abbreviated to “Trad”, is a common sight throughout this part of the county, and sometimes further away too, but Trad has an abv of just 3.4%, whilst Larkin’s Best Bitter weighs in at a much more respectable strength of 4.4% abv, this Kentish style Best Bitter is a rich, fruity and slightly sweet ale.

Trad, on the other hand, is weaker, although it still packs in plenty of character and flavour for a beer of such low abv, and because of this it remains Larkin’s staple bitter and best seller. A true session beer if you like, and I recall, many years ago now, Bob Dockerty, the brewery’s founder, and Head Brewer at the time, saying that Trad’s low abv, allowed customers to enjoy a couple of pints of this well-balanced, tawny session bitter and still be able to drive home. This was an important consideration given that the majority of pubs stocking Larkin’s beers were rural affairs, with very little in the way of public transport connections, especially in the evenings.  

Larkin’s Brewery is situated in the scenic village of Chiddingstone, near Edenbridge, where it produces award-winning traditional Kentish real ales. Established in 1986 by Marjorie and Ted Dockerty, together with their son, Bob - a commercial hop grower and enthusiastic home brewer at the time. Larkin’s operates as a close-knit family business, that includes Head Brewer Harry Dockerty (Bob’s nephew), Accounts & Office Manager Becky Dockerty, Drayman Martin Ayres, and Director Karah Templeton. In addition, a dedicated group of part-time team members play an essential role in supporting the ongoing success of the brewery.

Today, the company offers three core beers plus two seasonal varieties, crafted exclusively from hops cultivated on Larkin's Farm. The brewery supplies approximately 40-50 local pubs and restaurants, as well as serving private customers for parties, weddings, and community events. Sadly, just over three years ago, Bob passed away, quite suddenly, leaving behind a huge hole, not only in the family and the brewery, but the wider community too. He was certainly a character, as anyone who had the good fortune to meet him, would confirm. Fortunately for the beer lovers of this world, Bob left a strong and successful local business as his legacy, producing beers packed with local character, and bittered entirely with hops, grown on the family farm.

With Larkin’s Brewery approaching its 40^th Anniversary year, it is pleasing to say that Bob's life work is going from strength to strength, with many favourable comments and reviews being received regarding the quality and consistency of the range of beers produced at Larkin’s. The pint of the brewery’s Best Bitter that I enjoyed last Sunday, certainly hit the spot, but as I was driving, I sensibly limited myself to just the one pint. After ordering my pint, I had a brief chat with Simon, the Dovecote’s landlord who, together with wife Lindsey, has been looking after the pub for several years. Despite their laid-back appearance, the pair run a highly professional and very tight ship, which is reflected in the strong client base they have built up, since taking over the reins.

Simon told me that they’d had a good Christmas and New Year, and judging by the number of both drinkers and diners in the pub, the good times seem set to continue well into January. It was certainly good to witness a country pub that is thriving. I mentioned my trip down to Hastings, the previous day (details still to come) where every one of the four pubs I visited was busy, with standing room only in a couple of them. With all the sh*t going on in the world, at the moment, people obviously need a safety valve where they can let their hair down, get away from the bad stuff and forget their troubles for a while, and where better to do so than in relaxing and welcoming atmosphere of a traditional English pub – other home nations, also qualify here!