I received three beer-related books in this year’s Christmas
stocking. One has proved almost impossible to put down, one I have merely flicked
through, but I can see it is going to be an excellent and informative read and
the other, well read on and see what you think.
First up is veteran beer bloggers, Boak& Bailey’s first book, “Brew Britannia”. This excellent paperback is an entertaining run through of the
strange rebirth of British Beer; a story which begins with CAMRA’s fore-runners
the Society of Preservation of Beers from the Wood (SPBW), continues through
the formative years of the Campaign for Real Ale, and concludes with the emergence of the
“craft-beer” movement. The story, of course, continues today, and the
fascination with and interest in beer, in its myriad forms and styles, which
started in these islands, has now spread far from these shores to become the
global phenomenon it is today.
“Brew Britannia” has a particular resonance for me, as I was
around in those early days; admittedly not right from the start, but my
involvement in CAMRA and my interest in beer and pubs in general does stretch
right back to the early 1970’s; meaning I can identify with how the Campaign for
Real Ale has evolved over the years. In some cases I either had direct personal
involvement with what went on, or can remember being associated with, what at
the time, were pioneering and ground-breaking events. It’s now just three
days after Christmas, and I have nearly finished reading it; surely the sign of
a good book, and I find myself asking why didn't I buy it when it first appeared last year?
The second book is veteran beer writer Stephen Beaumont’s
excellent treatise on matching beer with food. Titled, surprisingly enough, “The Beer & Food Companion”, Stephen’s book carries on where Garrett Oliver’s
groundbreaking “The Brewmaster’s Table”, published 2003 (I have a signed copy
on my bookshelf), leaves off.
As I said, I have only flicked through this book, but it
seems packed with fascinating tips and ideas for matching beers with certain
foods, in much the same way as Garrett’s book did, but given the phenomenal
growth of the global craft beer market, it is able to draw on a much wider range and
variety of different beers. It will be interesting to compare these two
publications side by side. (It’s worth remembering that despite what the wine connoisseurs
tell you, beer often provides a far better accompaniment for many foods, than
does wine, so why not find out for yourself and get hold of one, or both, of
these books).
The third Christmas beer book I received is a dark horse,
and one which is difficult to pigeonhole. However, I have a feeling it will grow on me over
time. “Mikkeller’s Book of Beer” is written by legendary Danish brewer, Mikkel
Borg Bjergsø and his wife Pernille Pang. Amongst other things it contains 25
original Mikkeller brewing recipes, along with instructions of how to brew “exciting,
great-tasting beer at home.” Readers also get to learn about “Mikkeller’s
evolution from experimental hobby brewer to trailblazing international
micro-brewer.”
Confession is said to be good for the soul, so I will come clean and say that despite all the publicity and hype surrounding Mikkeller, I have never
drank one of his beers. Actually, the reason for this omission from my own
personal experience of world beer is BECAUSE of the almost
“god-like” status Mikkeller is held in amongst the craft beer “glitterati”.
That and the exorbitantly high prices charged for his beers!
Some might say my schooling in the world of craft beer is
therefore incomplete; and I would probably agree with them, but I have never
been a person who just follows the crowd, and the bigger the hype surrounding
something, the more likely I am to shy away from it.
Things of course, can change and I am keeping an open mind on this. However, I was rather shocked when I learnt earlier this year, during a rather heated discussion at the European Beer Blogger’s Conference in Brussels, that Mikkeller does not have a brewery of his own, and is therefore a “gypsy brewer” using other people’s plant and equipment. This to me, shows a lack of commitment, and signifies someone who, whilst liking to experiment and play around with recipes, is not a person prepared to put his money where his mouth is.
A few weeks ago, fellow blogger Ed wrote a post,
Entitled “Beer and Wanking”, in which he reviewed Mikkeller's book. You need to
follow the link back, via Ed’s blog, to a comment on Stonch’s blog to discover
the origin of the masturbatory reference, but in his post, Ed claims the book’s
overview of brewing is “riddled with inaccuracies”, and that the “account of
brewing history is untroubled by any of those annoying facts that get in the
way of a good story.” He is most scathing though when he reveals that despite Mikkeller
being a “gypsy brewer”, “he doesn't actually brew on other people's kit, as he
considers the actual brewing to be just manual labour.”
Presumably Mikkel must have tried and tested the recipes he
sends out to those “contract brewers” prepared to do his bidding, but the lack
of a hands-on approach at the coalface, so to speak, has lowered my estimation
of him even further.
As I said though, I will be keeping an open mind until I
have finished reading “Mikkeller’s Book of Beer”, as who knows it might turn
out to be the surprise find of them all, and what's more, given the right circumstances, I might be persuaded to try a Mikkeller beer!