At the weekend I arranged to meet up for a few pre-Christmas
drinks with my old friend and long-distance walking companion, Eric. We headed
over to nearby Tunbridge Wells, as there is little of interest pub-wise in
Tonbridge, where we both live. Engineering works and a re-timed departure
schedule meant trains were not running at their usual frequency between the two
towns, so after a frustrating 30 minute wait at Tonbridge, we finally boarded a
late running train and arrived at our destination some 10 minutes later.
Opera House - JDW |
We headed up the hill, as I had some tickets to collect from
the town's Assembly Hall Theatre. We then walked along to Fuggles, but we could
see through the clear glass windows that the place was absolutely heaving. We
therefore decided to call in at the Opera House instead for our first drink of the
afternoon. The Opera House is the JDW outlet in Tunbridge Wells and, as its
name might suggest, is a pretty grand affair.
This imposing Edwardian building, which saw its last opera
performed back in 1931, was purchased by Wetherspoon’s in 1996, and turned into today’s successful
public house. After several decades as a cinema, and then a bingo hall, the
Opera House needed substantial restoration work, which the company carried out
with their usual sensitivity and eye for detail, and whilst the upper seating
areas (circle and private boxes), are not open to the public, the whole of the
ground floor is, including the stage.The latter area has been converted to house a
second bar and drinking area.
This was where we sat, both enjoying an excellent pint of
Old Dairy Blue Top. We had timed our visit perfectly, as the lunchtime crowds
had drifted off, and the evening drinkers had yet to arrive. So we sat there
chatting and catching up with what had been going on in our respective lives.
Grove Tavern |
After finishing our pints, we decided to move on, and the
Grove Tavern, hidden away in the Tunbridge Wells “village area”, seemed the
ideal next stop. En route we walked through Calverley
Gardens, pausing to admire the
ice-rink set up in the grounds for the benefit of seasonal revellers. This
year’s December weather has seen record high temperatures, so I am sure the
chillers must have been working overtime to keep the ice from melting, but the
rink seemed pretty popular and looked suitably festive all lit up with
Christmas lights.
We reached the Grove Tavern, which is reputed to be one of
the oldest pubs in Tunbridge Wells. It was busy with a good mix of regulars;
many of whom we recognised, plus a group of pool players. Landlord Steve and
barmaid Sally were in charge behind the bar, and they had their work cut out
keeping up with the steady demand for more pints to be pulled or poured.
Steve had four beers on the bar – Harvey’s
Best, Taylor’s Landlord, Longman
Blonde plus a seasonal beer whose name escapes me. I sampled
both the Landlord and the Longman, preferring the former. I met up with a
couple of old acquaintances, which was one of the reasons we stayed for a second
pint. It was good to see the pub so busy, but this high level of trade seems to
be the norm if previous visits are anything to go by.
Duke of York |
We wandered down the hill towards the Pantiles; intending to
call in at the Ragged Trousers. A look through the window revealed that, as in
the case of Fuggles, the place was absolutely heaving, so instead we made for
the nearby Duke of York. The latter is one of the oldest pubs on the Pantiles,
but its star attraction as far as we were concerned is that it is now owned by
Fullers, and sells the full range of the company’s beers.
The Duke has also had a successful makeover, with the bar
being moved back to create a lot more space. Despite this there was still no
room to sit down, so we stood at the bar admiring the highly professional way
the manager and his staff conducted themselves and went about ensuring everyone
was served as quickly and efficiently as possible. Beer wise we opted for ESB,
as this legendary strong bitter is rarely seen outside of Fuller’s tied houses.
I am pleased to report it was good and highly satisfying. Whilst in the pub, we
bumped into my wife’s niece and her boyfriend who have become regular visitors
to the Duke. Like us they live in Tonbridge, but again like us feel the need to
travel over to Tunbridge Wells to drink in a decent pub.
They told us they had just come from the Pantiles Tap; a
relatively new addition to the town’s drinking scene. The Tap opened just over
a year ago, and I wrote about it here. Eric had not been there, and I had not
been back since my initial visit, so wanted to see how it had changed. We ended
up walking straight past it, as it is tucked away in what are the former
cellars of the long vanished Gloster Hotel, (note the strange spelling).
Taps at the Pantiles Tap - photo from last year |
Realising our mistake, we retraced our steps and descended
down into this basement bar. It was busy, but we managed to find room at the
bar. With sixteen beer lines (cask and keg), it was difficult to decide which
beer to go for. The young lad behind the bar helped us decide, and we opted for
a dark beer from Northumberland brewers, Anarchy Brew Co. I thought the beer
was a porter, but can find no porter listed on the company’s website, so perhaps
it was one of their stouts. Whatever it was it was good, and whilst standing
there drinking, we got chatting to Jo, the landlady who was sitting on our side
of the bar.
It turned out she remembered me from my off-licence days,
and possibly I remember her but, as with a pub, a lot of different people
passed through the door of my shop, so it is difficult recalling them all. That
aside, we chatted about beer related matters, and learned of the success Jo and
her partner Geoff have had with the Pantiles Tap over the past year. The bar
has mellowed nicely since last November, when I first called in, and the Tap is
now firmly established as part of the Tunbridge Wells drinking scene. All three
of us agreed that Tonbridge is crying out for a similar establishment, but the
lack of suitable premises seems to be the main stumbling block preventing
similar ventures from opening in the town.
We finished with a beer from Buxton; possibly Axe Edge, but
things were starting to get a little hazy by this time. We made our way back to
the station, calling in at the Bedford
for one last drink, (not that we really needed another one!). The final beer was
Nine Tails, a 4.9% Old Ale from Black Cat Brewery.
Black Cat began brewing in 2011 on a 2.5-barrel brew plant
in nearby Groombridge, but re-located under new ownership, to Palehouse Common
in East Sussex. I’ve always enjoyed their beers, but
they used to be quite hard to find. It was therefore good to come across a
Black Cat beer so close to home, and it was certainly a good one to mark the
end of what had been an excellent evening out.