I felt more than a little hung-over on the post-conference
Sunday morning, regretting what I knew was a bad decision to finish the
previous night’s pub crawl of Brussels
with a Westmalle Triple. (I’m talking about the European Beer Bloggers
Conference, in case you hadn’t twigged). Still I was up sufficiently early to
complete my last minute packing and to check out of the conference hotel before
9am.
The reason for the early morning departure was that I had
booked on the two-day, post-conference excursion, organised by the tourist
agency, Visit Flanders, and the coach was schedule to depart at 9 o’clock sharp. I said my farewells to those
the new friends and acquaintances I had made, who weren’t coming on this
particular trip, (there were two other excursions for delegates to attend, plus
some people were just heading home), and boarded the coach.
The sun was shining as we set off through the streets of the
Belgian capital, heading out towards the city ring-road and the E40 motorway. I
know this road quite well, having travelled along it on a number of occasions
whilst journeying to and from Cologne
for a large trade-show (IDS), with some of
my work colleagues. With the sun helping to lift my spirits and the
increasingly flat countryside looking its best, as we drove towards Flanders,
I began to feel human once more, pleased to be free of the confines of the city
and looking forward to exploring this north-westerly province
of Belgium in the company of my
fellow Bloggers.
After 40 minutes or so, we turned off the E40 and headed off
in a north-westerly direction towards the town of Leper
(Ypres); the scene of so much fierce fighting during the
Great War. With the sun beating down on the pleasant and peaceful countryside,
it’s hard to imagine the carnage and slaughter which occurred here one hundred
years ago. We skirted around Leper and before long reached the first stop on
what promised to be a busy and quite beery day.
The assembled party outside the Hop Museum |
Our coach dropped us
at the "Hop Museum Poperinge", housed in a tall 19th Century
building, right in the centre of Poperinge, and we spent a pleasant hour or so
being shown around the various exhibits by Johan our guide. Hop picking in Belgium was much the same as I was in England, although the drying kilns seemed a lot less
sophisticated than the traditional oast houses we have back in Kent. One difference was the hops were measured
by weight, rather than volume and the pickers’ were paid accordingly. This led
to all sorts of sharp practices; some a lot less savoury than others, whereby
coffee or certain other liquids were tipped into the baskets containing the
hops, in order to increase the weight.
A suitably rustic lunch at De Stadsschaal |
It was only a short
ride to our next stop; the De Plukker Brewery attached to the hop farm of Joris
Cambie. I have written a separate post here about Joris’s farm, the organic
hops he grows and the excellent beer he brews in the on-site brewery so, apart
from saying that farm, farmer and brewery were all very much part of the scene
in this hop-growing region of Belgium, I will not repeat myself further.
Sign at the abbey entrance |
Beer is sold weekly, in small quantities, from the doors of
the monastery itself to individual buyers after they have reserved their order
by phone. Sales are limited to one order every 60 days per person per license
plate and phone number, and it is a matter of “pot luck” as to which of the
abbey’s three beers are available. The type and quantity of beer available for
sale are only revealed when order are placed, making the whole process very
secretive. As the beers have increased in popularity, the number of 24-bottle
crates per car permitted has decreased. For the highly sought-after
Westvleteren 12, it is now limited to just one case.
In de Vrede |
Fortunately there was plenty of beer for the thirsty hordes.
We managed to grab a couple of long bench tables outside and soon after a waiter appeared to take our order. All three Sint Sixtus beers were
available; namely Westvleteren Blonde (green cap), 5.8% ABV,
Westvleteren 8 (blue cap), 8% ABV
and Westvleteren 12 (yellow cap), 10.2% ABV.
Whilst many of my fellow travellers opted for the world-famous Westvleteren 12, (voted by Rate Beer as the “best beer in the world”), I decided to go for something lighter, in the form of the 5.8% Westvleteren Blonde. This was a deliberate choice as, however famous the12° beer might be, I did not wish to drink such a strong beer on a warm and sunny afternoon; especially as I knew there were two other brewing establishments to visit later that day, plus a dinner which invariably would include more beer! The other reason was I have never seen Westvleteren Blonde on sale anywhere else, so this seemed the perfect opportunity to acquaint myself with it.
Enjoying Westvleteren beer |
I was reluctant to leave “In de Vrede”, and
as we walked back to the coach through the large and virtually full car park,
it was plain to see the obvious popularity of the Sint Sixtus “brewery tap”. I
was also impressed by the amount of bikes we saw parked outside, and the number
of cyclists out enjoying the late summer sunshine, but then this part of Belgium is so flat it invites itself to those who
wish to explore it on two wheels.
To be continued............................................
To be continued............................................