Saturday, 20 July 2019

North Downs Way - a brief overview


Well after three days walking through the glorious Kent countryside enjoying, at times, some spectacular scenery, and at others unadorned rural tranquilly at its verry best, I returned last night a trifle weary and certainly a little footsore.

I was following part of the long-distance footpath which makes up the North Downs Way, through an area of East Kent where I spent part of my childhood, and somewhere I have only re-visited briefly in the intervening years. I was also able to discover places I’d previously chosen to ignore, or was unaware due either to the distractions, or just the indifference of my early and teenage years.

Apart from some annoying light drizzle, and low cloud on the second day, which unfortunately obscured what should have been some spectacular views out to sea, over the English Channel, the weather was decidedly benign and certainly showed that corner of south east England at its best.

It was hot and sunny on the first day, although thankfully a welcome breeze did help to keep temperatures down little, whilst the final day was mainly cloudy, but with a south-easterly wind blowing behind me, it did add a certain spring to my step.

I enjoyed two relaxing and very peaceful nights in a couple of strategically placed and pre-booked bed & breakfast establishments; both of which were towards the top end of the spectrum, i.e. they would have received a seal of approval from Mrs PBT’s.

To my mind they were worth every penny, as the last thing you want after a long and tiring day’s walk, is somewhere you feel uncomfortable in. (The B&B my friend and I stayed in at Winchester, ten years ago, after completing the South Downs Way, springs to mind).

I averaged just over twelve miles a day, not a vast distance for some people, but for a relatively slow walker like me, not out to break any records and certainly not a man in a hurry, this was just right. I have to say though, that whoever routed the trail up one of the longest and steepest dry valleys on the North Downs, must have been some sort of a masochist.

Coming as it did, just two miles before the end of my longest day’s walking (14 miles), meant me arriving at the first B&B a couple of hours behind my estimated arrival time. I was that knackered that I declined the landlady’s kind offer of a lift down to the local pub, as all I wanted was to get those boots off my feet, a shower and then collapse into bed.

After a solid, and unbroken sleep of eight hours – something quite rare for me, I awoke a new man and having missed out on an evening meal, certainly made short work of devouring the full English breakfast the following morning, with cereal preceding and toast following. The landlady too remarked that I looked so much better than I’d done when I rang her door bell the previous evening!

I reached my final destination of Canterbury, shortly before 4pm on the final day. I discounted any heroics I might have had for carrying on an additional four miles, which would have meant me completing the entire Canterbury loop of the NDW. That will have to wait until another day.

Instead, I sat down at a table outside the Old Buttermarket pub, in the shadow of the gate to Canterbury Cathedral, enjoying one of the best and certainly one of the most welcome pints I’ve had in a long time. I felt like a pilgrim who has reached his destination, even though three days walking would be rather lightweight for someone on a proper pilgrimage.

As for the name of that particular pint? Well, I’m afraid you’ll just have to wait until one of the following posts to find out.

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