On my recent North Downs Way
walk I stayed in a couple of really nice bed & breakfast places. Quiet and
tucked out of the way, they weren’t cheap, costing more than I’d pay on a
nightly basis for a hotel room on a city break in Europe.
However, for the relaxing experience they offered – something much needed after
a hard day’s walking, they were worth every penny.
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The first establishment was the intriguingly named, Pigeonwood House; an old farmhouse dating back to 1769. The house is situated on the edge of the tiny hamlet of
Arpinge, high on the North
Downs,
above Folkestone, in a
tranquil and very rural setting. Being only 300 yards from the NDW, it was ideal from my point of
view, although the advertised
“spectacular views of the surrounding countryside, then across the sea to France,” failed to materialise due to a
combination of low cloud and light rain the following morning.
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I wolfed
the breakfast down, complementing it with cereal to start and plenty of toast
and marmalade, mindful of the fact that apart from scoffing most of the
complimentary biscuits in my room, I hadn’t eaten since the previous lunchtime.
I had planned an evening visit to the curiously named Cat & Custard Pot
pub, at the equally strange-sounding hamlet of Paddlesworth.
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I was also
working on the assumption that the offer of a lift didn’t extend to collecting
me, later in the evening, so I politely declined her offer, as in all
seriousness I didn’t feel up to walking even that short distance. After reading a review on Booking.com, I later discovered that it did, but given the fact I enjoyed an early night and eight hours unbroken sleep - a real rarity for me, I'm convinced I made the right decision.
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Eythorne is a couple of miles away from the NDW trail, which passes through the neighbouring village
of Sheperherdswell. I’d arrived at the local station, after travelling from Dover by train, (I’d walked the Sheperherdswell – Dover section a couple of years previously.) After a phone call, host Mike very kindly collected me from the station and also dropped me off at the start of
the NDW, the following morning.
The evening of my arrival, saw me up for a walk to the local
pub. Following the closure of the White Horse, just a couple of minutes walk
from Brambles, this meant a half-mile walk to the Crown, at the other end of
the village. My route took me down the hill to Eythorne station, a reconstructed platform and signal box, on the heritage East Kent Railway, which
runs between the village and Sheperdswell.
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The line was constructed between 1911 and 1917, to light
railway standards, by the legendary engineer, Colonel H .F. Stephens. It ran
between Shepherdswell and the Kent Coalfields, its primary purpose being to carry
coal. It remained operational as far as Tilmanstone Colliery, until the 1984-85
Miners Strike. Following the closure, a year later, of Tilmanstone, services on
the line ceased in 1987.
Like Pigeonwood House, Brambles accommodates quite a few
visitors from overseas, as well as hikers like me, who appreciate a little
luxury after a long and hard day’s walk. I can recommend them both, if you are
ever in that part of East Kent.
I then followed the road up the hill, past the rather large Baptist
Church, to the village shop and
post office. The attractive looking Crown was a little further on, along the
road which leads out of the village, towards Dover.
I had a good meal a the pub, and some equally good beer – St
Austell Proper Job, before returning to Brambles for the night. After a good
night’s sleep and a substantial full English breakfast the following morning, I
was dropped off, where the NDW crossed the road into Shepherdswell, as
mentioned above.
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