When the author Arthur
Ransome’s name is mentioned, people automatically think of his classic
children’s book, "Swallows and Amazons".
In 1937, Ransome published "We Didn't Mean to Go to Sea", which was
the seventh book in the series about the Walker
family (the Swallows). The book is set in a new location, on the other side of
the country from the Lake District, and sees the Walkers
staying at Pin
Mill on the River Orwell just downstream from Ipswich.
Like many people, I have fond childhood memories of "Swallows
and Amazons", although I never progressed to reading any of the other books
in the series. The reason though, for me mentioning "We Didn't Mean to Go to Sea" is that
last Friday I managed my first visit to Pin Mill, and its famous waterside-pub
the Butt & Oyster.
Pin Mill is a hamlet on the south bank of River
Orwell, which is tidal at this point. It is close to the village
of Chelmondiston
on the Shotley peninsula. The settlement was once a busy landing point for
ship-borne cargo, a centre for the repair of Thames sailing barges and home to
many small industries such as sail making, a maltings (now a workshop) and a
brickyard.
Like my home county
of Kent, the east coast of England
has a long history of smuggling, and Pin Mill and the Butt & Oyster pub
allegedly played key parts in this. Pin Mill has been the subject of
many paintings and photographs, and is a popular yacht and dinghy sailing
destination.
The Butt & Oyster is best described as a traditional
17th century inn. It is famed for its setting on the bank of River Orwell and
the fine views it offers across the estuary. To take full advantage of this,
there is a substantial amount of outdoor seating to front of pub, and this is
very popular on sunny days. The Butt
& Oyster can get very busy in summer and also at weekends, and has been long
renowned for its food menu, which includes a number of fish dishes.
There are three separate rooms inside, connected by a corridor
with flagstone floors, and along with the main bar, there is a small snug, plus
a much larger dining room. There are some high backed settles plus a large open
fire in main bar area, making it very cosy on cold winter days. The pub has
featured in a number of films and was once used as a filming location in an
episode of the TV series Lovejoy, when it was known as "The Three Ducks".
I’m not quite sure when the Butt & Oyster Inn first
registered on my consciousness, but I imagine I think I must have come across it
in a book of old inns. Looking back through my collection of pub books, I
noticed the pub is listed in Classic Country Pubs, written by former CAMRA Good
Beer Guide editor Neil Hanson, and published in 1987.
Back then the pub belonged Tolly Cobbold who were the
dominant brewery, not only in the Ipswich area, but
across wide swathes of Suffolk, and
even spreading into adjoining counties. Tolly of course, have long gone to that
great brewery graveyard in the sky, and their impressive Cliff Brewery,
fronting on to the waterfront in Ipswich, is currently
the subject of a number of redevelopment plans, which could see the buildings
converted for residential or commercial
use. Somewhere along the line, the Butt & Oyster was acquired by local
brewing heroes Adnam’s, and is now one of the Southwold brewer’s flagship pubs.
It was a pub I had wanted to visit for a long time, but
despite making regular trips up to Norfolk,
there never seemed sufficient time to divert across to the Orwell estuary, and
the tiny riverside settlement of Pin Mill. It wasn’t until I looked at a more
detailed map of the area, that I realised just how do-able it was to divert off
the A12 - A14 junction at Copdock to the south of Ipswich. The
acquisition of a Sat-Nav made the whole process even easier.
Last Friday therefore saw me diverting off the A14, convinced at first
that the Sat-Nav was taking me the wrong way. However, when I saw a sign for Chelmondiston
followed by an initial glimpse of the River Orwell, I knew my instincts were
wrong and I needed to put my trust in technology and follow the instructions.
(This has actually been the case on several other occasions, and I have slowly
learned to trust the device).
I passed under the impressive Orwell
Bridge which carries the A14 over
the river, and before long found myself driving along a relatively peaceful
B1456. I soon reached Chelmondiston, and just past the centre of the village
I turned off down a narrow lane towards Pin Mill.
As I approached the end of the lane, I saw a sign for a car
park along with a notice advising motorists there was nowhere to park along the
shore, so I followed the instruction and found a small “Pay & Display” area.
I actually managed to grab the last free space, so that was a bonus; as was the
fee of just 30p for an hour’s parking.
I then walked the couple of hundred yards to the end of the
lane and down a slope to the shoreline.
The River Orwell lay straight ahead, whilst to my left was a motley
collection of old boats. On my right, was the legendary Butt & Oyster, with
its outdoor dining area appearing to rise straight out of the water.
After stopping to take a few obligatory photos, I hurried
inside and headed first for the Gents. On he way back I took a quick look into
the small and cosy snug, before turning right into the main bar. I was pleased
with what I saw, specially as the bar was everything I imagined it to be. With
a tiled floor and wood-panelled walls, the crowning glory was the bay window
which looks out over the estuary. There was a family group sat at the table
which occupies the window space, whilst on the opposite side was a rather jolly
party of walkers.
I made my way to the bar, and whilst waiting patiently to be
served, had time to admire the row of beer casks stillaged behind the bar.
There were four Adnam’s beers available; Southwold, Ghost Ship, Regatta and
Broadside. As I was driving, I opted for the Southwold which at £3.90 a pint
was better value than the pub I would visit later in the day; see previous post. I scored it at 3.0 NBSS, and the only thing spoiling it was the "stylised" Adnam’s glass.
I found myself a seat, just along from the window, and sat
down to enjoy my beer and to soak up the atmosphere of this timeless old inn.
The bar staff were fairly busy, as were their colleagues in the kitchen, but
both seemed to be coping admirably. The dining room, which leads of from the
main bar, also seemed busy, but was nowhere near completely full; even though
the food offer looked really good. Perhaps the dull and overcast conditions
outside had deterred any fair weather visitors, but I was just glad the pub
wasn’t totally packed out.
I only stayed for the one pint, as I still had a fair way to
go to reach my pre-booked bed and breakfast place, a few miles to the south of Norwich.
Before returning to the car, I took a short walk along the shoreline, stopping
to admire the views and the boats, whilst soaking up the atmosphere of this
almost hidden nautical haven. I took quite few photos; some of which you can
see on this post.
I am certainly pleased that I made the effort to visit both
Pin Mill and the Butt & Oyster, and can clearly see why, eighty years ago,
Arthur Ransome fell in love with the place and used it as the setting for one
of his best known books.