Two contrasting local pubs, both doing a roaring trade

I visited a couple of rural pubs recently, they were quite contradictory in nature, despite being relatively close to one another. The main difference between them is is that one is independent, and family owned, whilst the other is part of a chain of decidedly upmarket public houses. The one thing they have in common is their relative proximity to the River Medway, Kent’s major river, which runs roughly south to north bisecting the county in two. My son and I enjoyed a meal, along with a quick pint in the first of these two hostelries, whist I just happened to stop off for a quick drink at the other one. Mind you, the world and his wife seemed to be dining out there.        

Let’s start with the Chequers, an attractive oak-beamed 15th-century pub, situated in the small settlement of Laddingford, in the midst of the English hop growing countryside. The Chequers sits at the very heart of the village and is a cornerstone of village life. A true family village pub. Good quality, value for money food, including daily specials, Sunday Roast and a children's menu. The pub frontage is a sea of flowers in summer and has a covered seating area. Whilst in winter, a roaring log fire keeps customers warm.

The pub hosts a variety of events, including an annual beer festival, held to mark St George’s Day. The event takes place in the pub itself and also in the extensive garden behind. The majority of the beers are racked up in an old oast house, at the side of the pub, which looked as if it may have been a stable block, back in the day. In true festival fashion, the beers are dispensed straight from the cask. For those who prefer vertical drinking and standing at the bar, there are usually three more cask ales were available inside the pub.

A couple of weeks ago, Mrs PBT’s had gone out for a meal, with a group of her girly friends, so left to our own devices, it was boys night out as well! Matthew and I drove over to Laddingford and parked a short distance up the road from the Chequers. Matthew particularly likes this pub, and with good reason. It was a balmy summer’s evening, so we chose to sit outside, on the comfy chairs, situated beneath a canvas canopy. I didn’t take a photo of the pump clips, but I’m reasonably certain that the beer I ordered was Tim Taylor’s Golden Best. This light mild is a beer that we rarely, if ever, see in the south-east, as it seems as if the brewery is content to flood the market with its flagship, Landlord. I’m pleased to report the Golden Best was on good form, but I’m not sure what Matthew’s lager was like – I told you that I wasn’t really paying attention!

For some reason, pub seemed popular with cyclists. A small group pulled up outside the pub, and then one or two of them would head off for a short ride, only to reappear 15 minutes or so later. After a few mouthfuls of beer, some more of them would ride off, before eventually returning again. All very strange, but the terrain in this part of the county, is dead flat, as it forms part of the River Medway floodplain, and this might explain its appeal to those on two wheels. As far as the food was concerned, our meal choices were pretty conservative – cheeseburger & chips, for the lad, plus fish - variety not specified, chips & mushy peas for me.

Five days later, and on a blisteringly hot Sunday afternoon, I stopped off in Tudeley, at the Poacher & Partridge. The latter is a large and sprawling pub that boasts a large, open-plan restaurant, bar, terrace and garden area, with uninhabited views across open farmlands. Like the previous pub, the Poacher lies on the same floodplain, although is sited a bit further upstream from the Chequers. 

 The Poacher & Partridge, started life as the Red Cow – and then went through several name changes. It was known as the Hartlake for a while, because it is situated in Hartlake Road, and an entry in 1993 Real Ale Drinker’s Guide to Kent Pubs lists the pub as the Pig in Hiding. Fortunately, that daft name didn’t hang around too long, and the pub then became the Poacher. The pub underwent further enlargement in 2006, along with another makeover, plus the addition of “Partridge” to the pub’s name.

Today the Poacher & Partridge is owned by Elite Pubs, a chain of 11 up-market pubs, occupying a relatively narrow area of West Kent and East Sussex. With its mix of traditional farmhouse decor with a modern, contemporary twist, The Poacher & Partridge is perfect for alfresco dining, especially when the weather is as good as it’s been recently. The place was absolutely rammed on Sunday, and I was lucky to find a parking place, despite the recently enlarged car-park occupying three small fields.

Given the fine weather, I was keen to sit outside, although not in direct sunlight, but first a beer was in order. The cask offerings were a choice between the ubiquitous Harvey’s Best, plus India Pale Ale, from Tonbridge Brewery. I opted for the Harvey’s, as I’ve never been a massive fan of the more local beer. I’m sure it’s just me being over fussy, because I was talking to a work colleague earlier today, and she really rates Tonbridge beers. Horses for courses, I suppose, and possible proof that I perhaps need to approach Tonbridge Brewery with more of an open mind. Also, Tonbridge Coppernob is the only non-rotating cask beer, sold in both branches of Fuggles. By that I mean that particular beer is always available, regardless of what other cask ales are on sale.

After ordering my pint of Sussex Best, I headed out, through the dining area, to the extensive garden at the rear. That too was packed, with the best tables being those with parasols providing welcome shade. I was lucky to find an empty table, and whilst it was one without any shade, my wide-brim sunhat, protected me from the worst of the sun’s rays. 

I sat at the table, enjoying an excellent glass of Harvey’s whilst watching the punters soaking up the sun, the beer and the food in equal quantities. With a separate outside bar, serving wine, lager and cocktails, plus numerous members of the Poacher’s team in their distinctive black and yellow, corporate attire, the place had the appearance and feel of a well-oiled, military encampment. Everyone seemed to be having a good time, even the couple I noted earlier, who’d managed to find some shade for their two hounds.

As I was driving, I limited myself to a single pint – although that might be too much if the government carry out their treat to reduce the drink-drive limit! Later that afternoon, I saw a local news update about the Hilden Manor, a Beefeater restaurant on the edge of Tonbridge. Owners Whitbread have already announce the closure of this imposing Grade II-listed building, which dates back to the 14^th & 15^th centuries. The breaking news is the site will be reopening under the name of the Never-Say-Never, in December this year. It will be a part of the Elite Pubs group, the same chain that own and operate the Poacher, (see above). I’m not sure about the name, but I shall look forward to seeing what the new owners have planned for this rambling old building.