Beer-related travel, at home and abroad, exploring and indulging my passion for beer.
Monday, 23 January 2017
Greyhound closes
Regular readers will be aware that I have been keeping a close eye on a pub which has been under threat of closure since last summer. The Greyhound, a tucked away pub in the tiny hamlet of Charcott, is just a 10 minute walk from my workplace, and is a very pleasant late-Victorian country pub.
The Greyhound had been up for sale for the past two years, and the people responsible are our old friends Enterprise Inns. Last summer the landlord and his wife moved onto pastures new after struggling, and failing, to sell on the lease, but fortunately local brewers Larkin’s, stepped into the breach, and took on the lease; albeit on a temporary basis.
Since that time, I have posted a number of regular updates of how the pub’s been doing, but sadly, I now have to report, the Greyhound closed at the weekend; possibly for good. The reason for the closure is Enterprise Inns, have found a buyer for the pub. Details are pretty sketchy at present, but the obvious concern is that the pub will be converted to residential use, thus depriving local residents of their only pub.
The closure was officially marked by a party, held on Saturday night, but given the Greyhound’s isolated position, Larkin’s, in conjunction with James the outgoing temporary landlord, agreed to open the pub, on Sunday lunchtime, specially for local CAMRA members and friends. This really was people’s last chance to enjoy a few pints at this attractive rural pub; certainly under its present custodians, and possibly for ever.
A full report will follow in due course; including a description of the interesting and scenic walk to the pub, made by a group of us. In the meantime, I just wanted to let people know the Greyhound is currently closed; its fate unknown, but local residents, in conjunction with CAMRA, submitted an application for ACV listing to the local council, prior to Christmas, and the outcome of this will be made public next month.
Please rinse and return
I was given a case of bottled beers from Harvey’s,
as a Christmas present by a couple of work colleagues. There are four different
Harvey beers in the selection, and
three of each. Tom Paine – a strong Pale Ale and 1859 Porter, make up half the
case, with Blue Label Pale and Old Ale constituting the other half.
The latter two beers have always puzzled me, as the Blue Label
is supposedly based on Sussex Best, whilst the latter is surely the bottled
version of Harvey’s highly regarded
winter seasonal. But all is not what it seems. Blue Label comes in with an abv
of 3.6%; the same as the Old Ale, and yet the draught equivalents of both beers
are 4.0% and 4.3% respectively.
This goes against the grain as the bottled beers of most
breweries are normally stronger than their draught/cask equivalents; where such
things exist. However, these strange anomalies are not the subject of this
post; instead I want to draw people’s attention to a practice of Harvey’s
which, whilst commonplace in the British brewing industry, is now probably unique.
Whilst rinsing one of the bottles, after use, I noticed an
instruction on the back label which said “We will wash and refill this bottle.
Please Return.” Now whilst I remember this instruction applying to Harvey’s
275ml (half pint) bottles, I hadn’t realised until I saw this notice that the
brewery were also geared up for the re-use of their increasingly popular 500 ml
bottles, an I have to say, good on them!
Back in the day when virtually all UK
breweries had their own tied estates, it was standard practice for empty
bottles to be collected up and returned to the brewery to be cleaned, rinsed
and re-filled. Sales of bottled beers declined sharply during the late 80’s and
early 90’s; helped in part by the increase popularity in cask(“real”) ale, and
also by the switch, particularly in the off-trade, to cans.
This, coupled with the effect of the government’s “Beer
Orders” which forced the larger breweries to sell off much of their tied
estates, was probably when many breweries gave up on bottled beer. Many smaller
breweries ripped out their bottling lines; many of which were both antiquated
and labour-intensive, and whilst a handful of the remaining large breweries
stepped in to fill the vacuum, their heart wasn’t exactly in it either.
Ironically it was the supermarkets that were responsible for
the revival and indeed the renaissance of bottled beer in the UK,
with the introduction of the so-called "Premium Bottled Ale" (PBA). These beers
were, at least to start with, more or less exclusively bottles versions of well
know “real ales”, with brands such as Fuller’s London Pride, Greene King Abbot,
Courage Directors and Wells Bombardier well to the fore. Attractively packaged
in 500 ml bottles which, by nature of the way in which supermarkets operate, were
non-returnable and single-trip, sales of PBA’s really took off, and soon lesser
known, but often more distinct brands joined the fray. Certain breweries
(Charles Wells and Hall & Woodhouse spring to mind, but I’m sure there must
have been others), invested heavily in state-of-the-art bottling lines,
allowing smaller breweries, who could not afford such investment, to join the
party.
State of the art bottling line (not Harvey's) |
All of a sudden bottled beers were back in fashion; although
the market had switched from the on to the off-trade. A handful of the smaller
breweries had stuck with their old-fashioned half-pint bottling lines, and Harvey’s
were prominent amongst them I suspect that whilst they have since upgraded
their filing line, Harvey’s took
the conscious decision to stick with returnable and refillable bottles.
Whilst, with the exception of Harvey’s and possibly one or
two others, the practice of returning bottles for refilling has died out in the
UK, I have noticed from my travels that it is still commonplace on the
continent; especially in Germany. In that country, it is much cheaper to drink
at home; far more so than it is in the UK.
Many people will pick up a crate of bottles from their local
brewery (there are enough of them, particularly in Bavaria),
and then return the crate of empties when they go to collect a fresh crate.
Supermarkets too are geared up for the sale of beer by the crate, and will
offer customers a refund on both the empty bottles and crate, when they are
returned. This situation is light years removed from what we have in the UK,
but then the Germans have always been big on recycling and other eco-friendly
practices.
Given the way in which the UK
beer market has evolved over the years, I do not envisage a return to
returnable and refillable bottles, but before finishing I want to pose the
question, “Just how environmentally friendly is the practice?”
At first sight, re-using bottles could be said to win hands
down, especially when compared to sorting, collecting, crushing and re-melting
single-trip ones. There are also the associated costs of manufacturing and
distributing new bottles, so cost-wise non-returnable bottles probably aren’t
particularly attractive.
With returnable bottles there are cleaning costs, including
the removal of labels, and this is where the environmental impact starts to
show its face. Harsh caustic solutions are often used in the cleaning and label
removal processes, alongside the use of detergents and copious quantities of
hot water. The cleaned bottles then have to be dried, so more energy costs are
involved here.
The question which arises from this, is the re-use of
returned bottles as “green” as it appears? Also the same arguments could be put
forward in relation to the cleaning and refilling of casks and traditional
kegs, as opposed to the use of “one-trip” containers for bulk beer, such as
“Key-kegs”. I would therefore be interested to hear what others have to say on
this subject.
Saturday, 21 January 2017
The Castle remains closed
At the tail end of October, last year, I announced that the historic
Castle Inn in the picturesque village of Chiddingstone, was set to reopen the following month, after a lengthy period of closure.
Unfortunately, it
seems my announcement was rather premature, as three months down the line, this
National Trust-owned pub remains firmly shut; as I witnessed the
other Sunday when I drove passed for a look.
Yesterday lunchtime I was in the Greyhound at Charcott,
chatting to the landlord, a fellow customer plus Mick, who has been Larkin’s drayman
for more years than I care to remember. I asked about the Castle, and was told
that the pub is now unlikely to open until March at the earliest. This means
the pub will have been closed for almost a year, and both the National Trust
and surrounding businesses, will have suffered a significant loss in income.
Last October I mentioned Nick Naismith as the man who
will be taking over the tenancy. Mr Naismith is a director of Westerham Brewery, and has
a good track record with regard to turning round ailing pubs. A few years ago
he rescued the Wheatsheaf in nearby Bough Beech, so if anyone can save this lovely old inn, he
can.
However, despite his obvious credentials, it seems that negotiations
with the National Trust are taking far longer than originally envisaged. Now I
obviously don’t know the ins and outs of this, but the sticking point appears
to concern some much needed repairs to this lovely old 15th Century inn.
I posed the question in my original post from April last
year, that perhaps the repairs are quite extensive (structural even?), and the that
National Trust were left with little choice but to close it until the work is
complete. Now unless the works were pretty major, I’d have thought nine months ample
time to have completed them, so the news that there’s been little sign of any
work taking place at the pub does not give grounds for optimism.
There are also other issues associated with the Castle,
including the lack of car-parking facilities, and these combined with the
National Trust’s track record of aiming for as high a rent as possible, are
almost certainly not helping.
So yet again it’s a question of “Watch this space”, but with
spring not that far off and the lucrative summer tourist season following close
behind, the National Trust will be extremely foolish, as well as financially irresponsible
with its members’ money, if it allows the Castle to remain closed for a further
extended period.
Thursday, 19 January 2017
Interrail 1975 Part Two - Northern Europe
The first instalment of this narrative covered the concept
and planning of a round Europe rail trip a student
friend and I made, back in the summer of 1975, making use of the Interrail Pass. Having caught the ferry across
from Harwich to the Hook of Holland, my companion and I
made the short train journey to Amsterdam,
which is where the story continues.
Your's truly - 41 years ago! |
We stayed at the Youth
Hostel in central Amsterdam. Unlike
similar hostels in Britain, and very unlike the Youth Hostel we stayed at in
Hamburg (see below), our stopover in the Dutch capital was a very civilised
affair, with the doors not locked until 1am and soft classical music played
over the tannoy system in the morning, in order to awaken the residents. My
only gripe was the triple-rise bunks in the dormitories, which required the
ability to climb like a mountain goat, plus a head for heights; and guess who got lumbered with the
top bunk!
Heineken’s city centre brewery was still operational at the
time of our visit, so we did the obvious thing and booked a tour – one Dutch
Guilder if my memory serves me right. The tour of course, included a number of
free beers, which were gratefully received at the time.
We visited several Amsterdam
bars during our three day stay in the capital. This was my first introduction
to Europe’s “café culture”, and I felt I could really
get used to sitting outside one of the traditional Dutch Brown Cafés, enjoying
a few beers whilst watching the world go by.
Two things we found slightly less appealing were the small
33cl glasses and the peculiar Dutch habit of scraping the head off the top of
the beer with a wooden spatula. We
didn’t go overboard on the beer front though, as of necessity, we were on a
tight budget and had to think about matters such as food. Here, a paper cone
full of chips, smothered in mayonnaise, came into its own, acting as a cheap
and tasty stomach-filler.
Copenhagen:
The Danish capital was our next
stop, and being Denmark
we found it rather expensive. It’s worth briefly mentioning that our rail
journey to Copenhagen involved our train being shunted onto a ferry, as we
journeyed from the mainland of the Jutland Peninsula to the large island where
the Danish capital is situated.
Elephant Gate - Carlsberg Brewery |
There was also a generous sampling of beer after the tour;
something which didn’t sit too well on an empty stomach. The unseasonably cold and
damp July weather also put a bit of a dampener on things as well, so much so
that we abandoned the afternoon’s visit to Tuborg; Copenhagen’s other major
brewery. This was probably a wise move at the time, but looking back was
something of lost opportunity; especially as the plant is now closed.
Hamburg: There’s nothing to report on the beer front
here, and little on any other front. The Youth Hostel is worth
mentioning, if only because its strict regime required residents to be back before 10pm, when
the doors were locked and used a loud and annoying bell to jolt sleepers out of
their slumbers at 6am! So no chance of a
wild evening in St Pauli and the Reeperbahn then!
River Rhine - Cologne |
The plan was for my companion to head south to Stuttgart,
where he would be spending a few days with a former girl-friend, who was living
and working in the city, as part of her foreign languages course. I would also
be travelling south but only as far as the great Rhineland city of
Cologne. I would be staying there with a
school friend who was doing a similar language-based course to Nick’s
girlfriend.
The arrangement was that a few days later I would board a
pre-selected Munich-bound train, which passed through Stuttgart, and my
travelling companion would be waiting on the platform to board the same train.
There was no contingency plan, and no real way of getting in touch with each
other should something happen to spoil the arrangement, but fortunately, thanks
in no small part to the strict punctuality of Deutsche Bahn, things ran like
clockwork, and true to form Nick was waiting on the platform at Stuttgart station,
ready to be waved off by his girlfriend.
Cologne's impressive cathedral |
I was met off the train at Cologne Hauptbahnhof by my school
chum, who quickly whisked me off to his workplace, where a “leaving do” of some
description was taking place. The reason for his haste was an attractive and
highly polished wooden barrel of beer perched up on a table. What was even
better was his boss’s instruction to “Make sure Mick’s friend has plenty to
drink, and that his glass remains full!” Consequently, by the time the party
was drawing to an end, I was viewing the world from a totally different perspective.
I don’t know what the beer was, or whether it may have been the local
speciality - Kölsch, but it was very nice. After the party ended, we went on to
a restaurant with Mick’s boss, where there was yet more beer, plus some welcome
and much needed food.
Brauerei Päffgen |
Beer from the wood |
It’s worth mentioning briefly the rail journey from Cologne
down to Stuttgart, as the 185 kilometre stretch south to Mainz, is one of the
most scenic routes imaginable. The rail line follows the course of the River
Rhine, almost hugging the west bank of the river at times, as it negotiates the
narrow Rhine Gorge. High on the hills,
overlooking the gorge, are a number of strategically-placed old castles, now
mostly ruined, but coupled with the extensive vineyards covering many of
the valley slopes, they give a real romantic feel to the region .
We will leave the narrative here for now, as the next time
we stepped off a train, apart from when changing on to another, we had
traversed the Alps and were in Croatia. That is definitely southern Europe, so
I will continue with this "less beery" part of the continent in the next
instalment.
Tuesday, 17 January 2017
Interrail 1975 Part One - Concept & Planning
As this blog is as much about travel as it is about beer,
here’s a post which outlines one of my earliest experiences of travelling
beyond these shores; back in the days long before the advent of the internet
and on-line booking, and harking back to a time when items such as basic mobile
phones, let alone “Smart-phones”, were nothing more than figments in the minds
of science fiction writers.
Back in the mid-1970’s; I think it was the summer of 1975,
although it could have been a year later, a student friend and I embarked on a
month’s travelling around Western Europe, by rail, taking advantage of the
Interrail pass. This was, and still is – although it has been modified and
expanded over the years, a ticket which allowed the holder unlimited travel across
the rail networks of all those countries which had signed up to the scheme.
Basically, this meant all of western Europe, plus former Yugoslavia. Eastern-bloc countries (those behind the “Iron Curtain”), were not participants in the scheme, but the prospect of being able to travel from Scandinavia in the north, right down to the Iberian Peninsula in the south, and from France in the west, across to Greece and Yugoslavia in the east, still afforded ample scope for some quite extensive journeys, with plenty of countries to visit along the way.
Basically, this meant all of western Europe, plus former Yugoslavia. Eastern-bloc countries (those behind the “Iron Curtain”), were not participants in the scheme, but the prospect of being able to travel from Scandinavia in the north, right down to the Iberian Peninsula in the south, and from France in the west, across to Greece and Yugoslavia in the east, still afforded ample scope for some quite extensive journeys, with plenty of countries to visit along the way.
I travelled with my friend Nick, who I had known since my
first day at Salford University. We’d met, whilst standing in the queue waiting
to register. We lived close to one another and would regularly meet up for a
drink, which fitted in well with our love of beer, and also membership of
CAMRA. Nick had tested out the Interrail experience the previous year,
although after becoming separated from his travelling companion quite early on
in the trip (due to the latter individual losing his passport), had ended
up completing most of the itinerary on his own. This time around he was looking
for someone more reliable and more responsible; which was where I fitted in.
We settled on the long summer break for our trip, and duly
set out to map out our itinerary. Armed with little more than a map of Europe
taken from a school geography book, we decided on a circular route, travelling
clockwise around the western half of the continent taking in the Netherlands, Denmark, Germany, Austria, Yugoslavia, Italy, France, Spain and then finally
back to England, via France.
With a rough idea of our direction of travel, along with the
countries we would be passing through, we moved on to the next stage which was
to look at rail routes and train times, and or this we enlisted the help of the
Thomas Cook International Train Timetable; a weighty tome which gave details,
and train times, of virtually all the main European rail-routes, along with
many of the minor ones as well.
This was a job requiring both concentration and attention to
detail, so in true student tradition we spent several evenings in the pub,
pouring over the timetable, whilst taking notes and jotting down details. (You
didn’t think we’d do this in the library did you?) Our chosen location was the public bar of the Honest Miller at
Brook where, over copious pints of locally-brewed bitter, served in
dimple mug glasses, we poured over map and timetable, fine-tuning our itinerary.
Brook was the village where I spent my teenage years, and
where my parents and sister still lived at the time. It is a small village,
nestling in the shadow of the North Downs, a few miles outside Ashford in Kent.
The Honest Miller was (still is), Brook’s only pub, and at the time was a real
unspoilt village local, with two bars; one of which was a traditional public
bar with a quarry-tiled floor, an open fire (in winter), and a serving hatch in
place of a bar. Even better than this was the gravity-served Whitbread Trophy
Bitter, brewed locally in Faversham and based on the old recipe for Fremlin’s 3 Star
Bitter.
Thirsty work -all this planning! |
During the Easter vacation, Nick had come to stay for a few
days (he only lived in London). I think my parents, or my mother at least, were
relieved to meet the person their only son would be disappearing off round Europe
with, for a month – and literally disappearing as with no modern communication
devices, apart from the occasional public call box and the odd postcard home, I
would be totally incommunicado.
During these evenings in the put, we sketched fleshed out
the bones of our rough itinerary; deciding on train times, locations we wanted
to visit and places to stay. We agreed that in Northern Europe, these would be
Youth Hostels, whilst in the warmer south, we would camp. Consequently we would
need to carry a small, two-man tent; a burden we agreed to take turns at
carrying. We would also, wherever possible, travel using over-night train
services, as that way we could sleep on the train (or at least try to), thereby
saving on accommodation costs.
We also listed out
what we would need to take in terms of clothing, sleeping bags and camping
gear, and what we could get away with by leaving behind. I invested in a decent
framed-rucksack, and we both joined the Youth Hostel Association. In addition,
whilst staying with Nick’s father, in London, we did the rounds of the various
national tourist information offices to pick up maps, brochures, local guides
etc; in short anything we thought would be useful for the places we were
intending to visit. We also each purchased the all important Interrail pass. I
can’t remember exactly where we picked these up, but I’ve a feeling it may have
been one of the main London termini; possibly Victoria.
Eventually the day of departure dawned, and we set off from
Liverpool Street station and caught the train to Harwich. From there we took
the ferry across the North Sea to the Hook of Holland; a rather tedious
six-hour crossing. Fortunately the sea was calm, and after passing through
customs at the Hook, and being asked a few pertinent questions by the Dutch immigration
officials (hardly surprising in view of our appearance – long hair and the
rucksacks we were carrying), we were boarded a train heading to Amsterdam.
Now I don’t intend giving a blow by blow account of our
trip, so I will confine the narrative to beer-related matters, plus the
occasional point of interest, and you will be able to read about this in the next installment.
Sunday, 15 January 2017
All quiet on the western front
It’s been rather quiet on the beer front since the start of
January, with not a lot to report. Last Monday I attended a “Business Meeting”
held by my local CAMRA branch. These events take place every couple of months and are
about as formal as things go in West Kent CAMRA. The branch
likes to rotate them amongst the three main towns within the area: Sevenoaks,
Tonbridge and Tunbridge Wells.
I don’t always go along, but seeing as Monday’s meeting was
held at the Primrose; a small, attractive, weather-boarded pub which is just
five minutes walk from my front door, I thought I’d better show my face!
Our new branch chairman has a less formal style than his
predecessor, and allowed the conversation, and debate to flow; instead of restricting
it in a rush to get through the agenda. I rather liked this approach, and may
go along to more meetings, even though I am no longer on the branch committee.
Apart from the rather mundane matters of GBG selections and
Pub of the Year (don’t call it POTY unless you really intend to get my goat
up!), the main item for discussion was the findings of CAMRA’s much vaunted “Revitalisation
Project”. “Much ado about nothing”, was my summation; an opinion which was echoed by several others of those present, but leaving aside issues such as the increased
status of cider within the Campaign, the chief concern was that of attracting new
and active members.
Excuse the camera angle; I was completely sober when I took this shot! |
Several ideas were floated around, but having seen many of them
tried, and failed, in the past, I kept my mouth shut. The problem is we have over
six hundred members on our books, but only see a fraction of them at branch meetings
or socials. Monday’s meeting was actually the first one in ages where attendance
reached double figures (but only just!).
The pub was reasonably busy for a Monday evening, but this was
almost certainly due to the darts match it was hosting, and the presence of us CAMRA
members. The sole beer, Harvey’s Sussex Best was in good nick, and all in all I
enjoyed the meeting, especially as it afforded the chance to catch up with
friends after the Christmas-New Year break.
I’m still none the wiser as to how we will attract new blood
into the branch, but I suppose we’ll soldier on in the same vein for a few more
years yet!
Wednesday, 11 January 2017
Spotted Dog - Smart's Hill
By way of a change from my recent, much “heavier” piece
about beer pricing, here’s a short post about the visit my son and I made to
the charming Spotted Dog at Smart’s Hill, just outside Pensuhrst. I had
volunteered to survey the pub for next year’s CAMRA Good Beer Guide; this was
after saying a few years ago that I wanted nothing more to do with that
particular publication!
My change of heart was sparked much more by a desire to
revisit this lovely old 15th Century inn, rather than doing my bit
for the Campaign, but having sat through the preliminary meeting, following our
branch AGM, when nominations for possible
entries were being taken, I put my name forward in a moment of weakness to help
out by surveying a couple of outlying rural pubs.
Sunday wasn’t the best day to turn up, survey form in hand,
and I actually kept that piece of paper well hidden. As a seasoned pub
surveyor, admittedly one who’s a bit out of practice, I know what to look for
and what questions to ask without raising the slightest hint of suspicion.
Smart’s Hill is little more than a couple of rows of houses
sited on high ground, to the south of Penshurst, overlooking the River Medway
which, in this part of Kent, is still relatively small in size. Somewhat unusually, for such a
rural part of the county, there is a second pub, called the Bottle House, at
Smart’s Hill, although the latter is further up the hill in an even more isolated
location. Because of their situation, both pubs rely heavily on the food trade
but of the two, I would say the Spotted Dog retains much more of a “pubby”
atmosphere.
Given this reliance on food, the Spotted Dog was
understandably busy when Matt and I arrived, gearing up to cater for all those
after a spot of Sunday lunch. Judging by the “Reserved” signs on the majority
of the table, booking is advisable; if not essential, and given the dearth of
available spaces, we resorted to sitting at the bar. Although the weather has
turned milder than it had been recently, both the pub’s fires were lit, and
this combined with the beamed, low-ceiling interior, gave a cosy and comfortable
feel to the pub.
There were three cask ales on tap, namely Harvey’s
Sussex,
Larkin’s Traditional and Young’s Bitter; the latter being a guest ale. I gave
the Young’s a miss, as ever since this once iconic brewery ceased brewing at
its historic Wandsworth home, and threw in its lot with Charles Wells of
Bedford, the beer hasn’t been worth drinking. Instead I went with the Larkin’s
Traditional, which despite its low strength of just 3.4%, still packs in plenty
of flavour whilst being ideal for drivers.
Several parties of pre-booked diners arrived whilst we were
sitting there, and it was encouraging to see that several of them were groups
of walkers. The Spotted Dog welcomes ramblers, although it does have a sign by
the door advising that, “Unless you are God or George Clooney, please remove
muddy boots before entering.” As well as welcoming walkers, the pub is also
“dog friendly” which, although welcome, is somewhat surprising given its
reliance on the food trade.
The Spotted Dog itself, is a 15th century white weather
boarded country inn that seems to cling to the hillside, and lies below the
level of the road. It is a long low building with a terraced garden area
between the pub and the road. Many years ago, there used to be some spectacular
views, across the Medway Valley, from the rear of the building, but
unfortunately this has now been obscured by the trees on the slope below, which are now reaching
maturity.
The bar is right in front of the entrance, in what is the
narrowest part of the pub, but the building opens out to the right where there
is a larger open area, heated by a welcoming log burning stove in winter. There
is also a small “snug” area, just in front of the window. At the opposite end
of the building is the restaurant area, although as hinted at earlier most of
the tables in the main part of the pub are often also set aside for diners,
particularly at busy times. For those who like their warmth, there is also a
much larger, open fire place, with an impressive stack of logs to match,
adjacent to the passage which leads top the restaurant.
The pub’s popularity is evidenced by the large car park,
just across the road, but despite the importance of the car-borne trade, many
people do make the effort to walk here, as mentioned earlier, and as I too have
done on several past occasions. Providing you time your visit right, it is also
possible to travel to the Spotted Dog by bus. The 231 bus from Tunbridge Wells runs
along the B2188 road, just below the pub, and you by alighting at the stop just
before the turning to Smart’s Hill, you can walk up the hill and enjoy a
few drinks without having to worry about driving. Do check the timetable
though, and allow plenty of time to retrace your footsteps back to the bus
stop, unless you fancy a long walk home!
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