Lewes - renewing my acquaintance with two classic pubs, and experiencing two unfamiliar ones

Right, we’ve covered the travel details, we’ve admired the pretty pictures as well, so now it’s time to take a look at the four Lewes pubs that I visited last Friday afternoon. Having worked in the town for a three-year period, I know the town quite well, and even though the time I spent there was over 30 years ago, I still retain much affection for the Sussex county town. During those three years, I visited a fair number of Lewes’s many pubs, but it’s important to remember that I was based in the town for business reasons, rather than ones of pleasure, and whilst there were no real restrictions against the occasional lunchtime pint, it wasn’t something that I indulged in that often.

There were two reasons for this, one of which was shortage of cash, whist the other was one of road safety. I wasn’t terribly well-off back in 1992. I’d recently become a father, and with Mrs PBT’s swapping the workplace for domesticity, we’d changed from a reasonably well-off, two wage-earning household, to one that was having to rely on just the one wage. Furthermore, my travel costs had increased significantly, changing from a short car journey of around 5 miles to a return, cross-country drive of just under 60 miles. Quite a difference, especially when it came to putting fuel in the tank, and an added expense I had to be aware of. This is where the road safety bit comes in, as that 30-mile journey to and from work each day, meant keeping my wits about me behind the wheel, so any lunchtimes drinking, if it occurred, had to be kept to a minimum.

Despite these restraints, I still manage the odd lunchtime pint, although most likely my regular walks into Lewes, served a different purpose, because two or three times a week, I would call in at the Harvey’s Shop, in Cliffe High Street, to fill up my 4-pint, carry-keg with draught beer. Cask, of course, and not always Best Bitter either, because the shop normally had a cask of whichever seasonal brew was on sale at the time, so XXXX Old Ale in winter, Porter for January-February time, Tom Paine in July, and Armada Ale most of the time, as an alternative to the Best. I was a regular customer at the shop, and always addressed properly as Mister Bailey, and never as Paul.

My walks into town took me along South Street, a quiet side street these days, following the construction of the Cuilfail Tunnel. Opened in 1980, the tunnel allows the busy A26 to bypass Lewes to the east of the town, thereby removing much of the through traffic that used to clog the narrow streets of the county town. Close to the northern end of the tunnel, is the Snowdrop Inn, a welcoming and friendly free house, nestling under the cliffs on the outskirts of Lewes.  Offering a range of beers from local Sussex breweries, the pub has quite a quirky feel to it, a feature I recall from the time when I worked in the town. Seeing as that was 30+ years ago, I decided to check out the Snowdrop, to see whether anything had changed at the pub.

My choice of the Snowdrop was in line with the plan that I hatched earlier, of avoiding some of Lewes’s better-known pubs, in favour of some that I was less familiar with. It was quiet as I walked along South Street, and when I eventually reached the pub, it did seem as though little had changed. There was a handful of people, scattered around the bar, plus a large, husky type dog, splayed out in front of the side entrance. I noticed Harvey’s Old on sale, but to begin with I opted for a coffee. My rather rushed train journey from Tonbridge (see previous article), had left little time for non-alcoholic refreshment, and I was missing my mid-morning caffeine fix, so a flat white, prior to the XXXX Old, was just the thing to set me up for the day.

Both drinks were good, and also very welcome, as I positioned myself at a table that gave me a good look at the proceedings. Several customers had ordered, and the food I saw being brought out, looked very good. I noticed on the pub website, that the pub has an additional, upstairs seating area, a facility I’d completely forgotten about. Eileen’s niece and her husband, who live in nearby Uckfield, have a fondness for the Snowdrop, so I must let them know about my visit.  That aside, it was good to renew my acquaintance with this welcoming, but slightly offbeat pub, so I’m pleased to have made the effort to call in.

Departing the Snowdrop and managing to get out of the door without stepping on the hound, I retraced my steps, back towards the Cliffe area of Lewes, for the next pub on my list. For many years, the Dorset was the nearest Harvey’s pub to the brewery, and whilst that distinction has now passed to the John Harvey Tavern, the former still gives the impression of its position in the local pecking order, reinforced by it being the home of the Cliffe Bonfire Society - the largest of the Lewes bonfire societies.   

The Dorset was refurbished in 2006, which is probably why the interior looked completely different, from what I remember. There are several drinking and dining areas, a large patio affording views back towards the brewery, plus six reasonably priced en-suite bedrooms. There are at least four Harvey’s ales on hand-pump, plus an extensive menu featuring traditional home-cooked dishes along with a seafood menu, using freshly caught fish from nearby Newhaven. 

There were two pleasant and helpful girls working behind the bar and looking after customers’ food requirements. With the time and place being just right, I ordered a bowl pf potato and leek soup, served with thick-cut, crusty bread. It was the perfect accompaniment to the excellent Old Ale. As with the previous pub there was a good mix of customers, that included an extended family in the room on the other side of the bar. The Dorset was definitely worth visiting, even though there was little that I recognised from three decades ago.

It was quite a hike up to pub No.3, and this was an establishment I wasn’t 100 percent sure about. Situated in Lewes High Street, at the top of School Hill, and a short distance from the town’s famous law courts, the "Rights of Man" takes its name from American revolutionary, Thomas Paine’s best known works. Paine lived in Lewes for a while, and to commemorate this fact, Harvey’s produce a strong pale ale in his honour, which is a available in cask form on and around the 4^th July.  

United States Independence Day, of course, so
the wrong time of year for cask Tom Paine to be available but made up for by some rather good Armada Ale. The latter is available all year round, but in my experience isn’t seen on the bar as often as it should be. I said that I wasn’t sure about the Rights of Man, and CAMRA’s local pub pages for Lewes, have since confirmed that the pub only opened under this name, in 2012.  

Conclusion, this was definitely my first visit to this bar, which extends back a fair way, as if it is making up for the rather narrow frontage. The style of décor at the pub is of cosy old-fashioned booths, etched glass and wood panelling, all adding to the rather upmarket feel of the place. The toilets are at the top of a rather steep staircase that isn’t that easy to navigate after a few beers. It is worth persevering in summer though, as there is an external roof terrace, that is almost hidden away. After that hike up from the River Ouse, it was another route march to the fourth and final pub of the day, and this time it wasn’t a Harvey’s pub. 

It was further to the Pelham Arms than I thought, although not quite as far as the Black Horse – a pub which back in the day, offered rather basic bed & breakfast accommodation. Eric and I discovered this on our South Downs Way hike, after traipsing along the banks of the River Ouse, in the pouring rain. I digress, although I must have walked past the Pelham on several past occasions, but never recognised the Pelham as a Hall & Woodhouse pub. 

It’s a large, white painted building, dating back to 1640, with plenty of original oak beams, an inglenook fireplace, plus a courtyard garden, and is full of age-old charm. The pub was the original home of the Abyss microbrewery which was housed in the pub's cellar but has now moved to larger premises elsewhere in the town. 

This leaves Badger Tanglefoot and Fursty Ferret, as the offerings for cask devotees, and I’m pleased to report that, after the bar manager pulled the line through for me, the Tanglefoot was in first class condition. As I said earlier, I must have walked passed the Pelham on a number of occasions, without noticing the owning brewery – I must be slipping, as I am normally aware of such things, so I’m assuming the pub is a fairly recent addition to the Badger stable. It’s certainly unusual to find an H&W pub this far east, and away from the brewery's Dorset home, but it’s well worth taking the trouble to visit.

The Pelham has a good reputation for its food, and even has its own smokery – get, you! It’s a bit of a hike up from the town centre, but there are regular buses, which include the No. 29 Brighton & Hove service, that operates between Brighton and Tunbridge Wells on a half-hourly basis (hourly on Sundays). There wasn’t time for me to linger though, so I made my way back along the High Street, before turning right into Station Road, and the train home. 

As reported in the previous post about Lewes, my homeward journey passed surprisingly smoothly, even if it did involve an additional change of train at Gatwick. It still took two hours which, when you consider that until 1969, there was a direct rail service between Tonbridge and Brighton (via Lewes), is proof that things have gone backwards in this country. Vested interests, corrupt politicians and a general lack of joined up thinking, have a lot to answer for, but that’s another story.