In the recent post I wrote about the
White Horse at
Sundridge, I mentioned the journey that took me past the pub, back in the early
90’s. This bumper to tail, traffic
nightmare was the result of my being seconded to another company, within the
same group as the one I worked for in
Tonbridge, in order to complete an
important project.
The nature of the project is immaterial to this narrative,
but I’m happy to say it was successful. Whether it was worth me spending three
months of my life in Hounslow, is open to debate, but it did enable me to save
quite a bit of money in the process. This was because, to save on travelling,
the company put me up in a hotel for four nights a week, and this was on an
all-expenses paid basis (within reason).
This
was to compensate for me being away from my wife and
home comforts, but I made up for this by getting to know a few of the local
pubs. Most Friday evenings, on the journey home to
Maidstone, where I was
living at the time, I took the opportunity to call in at whatever pub, along
the way, took my fancy. This way I got to know quite a few of the pubs between
Westerham and
Maidstone, and various point south of the
A25.
One pub I remember with particular fondness was the
Golding
Hop, just north of the village of
Plaxtol. I briefly mentioned this classic old
inn, towards the end of the
White Horse article, and just thinking about the
place, prompted me to write this piece.
The
Golding Hop was a true time-warp pub, and I say
“was”
because sadly, the Hop closed its doors for the last time, back in
2016,
following the retirement of long serving licensees,
Eddie and
Sonia. The couple
had looked after and run the pub for just over
twenty-five years, before
finally calling it a day.
Located in an unbelievably idyllic rural setting to the
north of
Plaxtol, the
Golding Hop offered gravity dispensed beers and ciders, simple
and good value for money food, in surroundings that have not changed for many a
year. The pub itself is built into the side of a hill, overlooking a narrow
lane, and is over 300 years old. There was a large garden opposite, with
facilities such as swings, climbing frame etc. to keep families occupied; an
important point to note, as whilst dogs were allowed in the pub, children were
not.
As well as beers served by gravity, from casks stillaged in
a room behind the bar, the
Golding Hop was famed for its cider. Alongside well-known
brands, such as
Weston’s the pub produced its own
"rough cider", from
a recipe that had been handed down over the years from one licensee to the
next.
I can still picture my first visit to the pub 40 or so years
ago, one evening on my drive home from
Hounslow. It was dark, so I don’t know
quite how I managed to navigate to the pub, on my own, without puling over to
look at the map. What I do know is I approached the
Golding Hop from the north,
turning off the
A25 at
Ightham, and then continuing along the
A227, towards
Tonbridge.
As th
e road descends steeply from the
Greensand Ridge,
towards the village of
Shipbourne, there was a sign, directing thirsty
travellers to the
Golding Hop. I drove long that road the other day and I am
pretty certain the sign is still there. I do remember it being a wild and windy
night; something that added to the appeal and the atmosphere of the pub that
time.
By following my nose, I arrived at the
Golding Hop, more by
accident than design, and after pulling up in the large car park opposite, made
my way inside. After spotting a vacant table, I made my way to the bar and
ordered myself a beer. It was probably a pint of
Young’s Ordinary, but four
decades on, I cannot be certain.
There were a few locals sat either close to or actually at
the bar. The took precious little notice of me, and I of them. The wood-burning
stove was lit, and this provided a warm, welcoming, and cosy feel to the pub. I
ought perhaps to have appreciated this feeling more, as most subsequent visits
took place during the summer months. These would have been post
1985, which was
the year I moved house, from
Maidstone to
Tonbridge.
I recall one such visit where a group of us sat outside on
the small terrace in front of the pub, enjoying the late spring sunshine. We
had taken the bus to nearby
Plaxtol, and then walked the last mile or so to the
Golding Hop. On the way we enjoyed some spectacular views across the
Bourne
Valley, to our right.
Another visit saw
us walking from
Ightham Common, where we’d spent a couple of hours at the
equally unspoilt
Old House. The latter remains a timeless classic and has
enjoyed something of a renaissance under its new owner.
It was a comparison of the beer quality between the two pubs
that really opened my eyes to what, for a long time, had been the Achilles Heel
of the
Golding Hop. Both pubs use gravity dispense, and both pubs keep their
beers in a room out the back, but the
Old House uses a cooling system, and the
effect of this was clearly evident in the temperature of the beer and its
subsequent high quality.
Unfortunately, the
Golding Hop had no such facility for
keeping the beer cool, and this often had a negative effect on beer quality,
particularly in summer. I’d go as far to say that, over the years, variable
quality beer was a downside of the
Golding Hop, in my experience at least. The
pub had been voted
West Kent CAMRA Pub of the Year back in
2004, and there were
many
CAMRA members who wouldn't hear any criticism of the pub's
beer.
On that particular visit, those with their heads in the sand
had to agree that the Adnams Best, and also the Gale’s Seafarer's, really
weren't up to scratch. Beer quality aside, a visit to the Golding Hop was
always something to look forward to, and the charms of its rural idyll in
summer, and the cosiness, of the pub’s interior in winter, with its low beamed
ceilings and wood-burning stove were equally appealing.
A small, limited menu offering basic pub-grub of the chips
and baked beans with everything variety, was another attraction and was always
good value. The beers too were always competitively priced, but it was the
setting and atmosphere of the pub itself, that were the main attractions.
Landlord Eddie was another attraction, and quite a character
to boot. You had to take him as you found him, and whilst some regarded him as
cantankerous, I never had a problem with him. Eddie was definitely part and
parcel of what made the Golding Hop tick but running the pub day in and day out
for 25 years, must have been hard work. It came as no surprise then, when Eddie
and Sonia finally decided to call it a day and take that well-earned
retirement.
A look back at this blog, over the years will turn up
several posts where the
Golding Hop was either the sole pub visited or, the
main one, so it was particularly galling to learn of its closure. I’m not
really certain what happened when the couple finally left the pub, but the
rumour was they only leased the place, rather than actually owning it.
An online search reveals that the Golding Hop closed on 22nd
September 2016, and its alcohol licence was surrendered. The new owners
submitted plans to open a coffee shop in its place, and this appears to be what
happened.
The premises are now listed as the
Golding Hop Tea House,
and photos on
TripAdvisor show it as a rather twee-looking establishment, with
soft-furnishings, distressed wooden chairs, and patterned tablecloths. A far
cry from what it was five years ago. The same site indicates that it has now permanently
closed. Perhaps that was the plan all along, but why turn a popular and
successful rural pub, in such a charming and idyllic setting, into a
chintzy
tea shop, in the middle of nowhere?
If anyone does know the true story behind the pub’s conversion,
or indeed any news regarding Eddie and Sonia, perhaps they could let me know.