Gaststätte Lommerzheim - a Cologne classic

I was trying to remember exactly who it was that recommended a visit to Gaststätte Lommerzheim, a classic, old-style Cologne pub on the other side of the River Rhine. First of all, I thought it was Retired Martin, and then Boak & Bailey sprang to mind. I did a few searches on their recent posts about Cologne, (RM Dec 22; B&B Nov 22), but nothing came up. Then I had one of those “lightbulb” moments, and turned to my own blog, and posts written about my previous visit to the Dental Show, back in 2019.

Sure enough, on a post written in March 2019, the following comment came up, from a reader called Robert. Enjoy Cologne, Paul! I hope it is not too late, but by all means try to visit Gaststätte Lommerzheim or Lommi as the locals call it. Just a short stroll away from both the fair and the Hyatt and probably the best place to experience proper old-style Cologne Brauhaus atmosphere. Great Pork chops as well as Päffgen on tap! And some great stories to tell about Lommi, the old landlord, who once turned down Bill Clinton so his regulars could come in that night! 12 March 2019 at 13:51

Suddenly, everything clicked into place, and whilst I still don’t know Robert’s identity, I can certainly confirm he was spot on in his recommendation, concerning Gaststätte Lommerzheim. As hinted at, in an earlier post, my chance to visit Lommi’s came last Thursday evening, when I called in at the pub on my way over to a glitzy, formal dinner, hosted by our parent company at Cologne’s prestigious Regency Hyatt hotel.

The dinner was scheduled for a 7 o’clock start, which was cutting things fine seeing as the Dental Show doesn’t close until 6pm. It’s been a mad rush in previous years, dashing back to the hotel for a quick wash and brush up, only to then charge back across the Rhine for the dinner. Even a pre-booked taxi is no guarantee of getting to the Hyatt on time, given the amount of rush-hour traffic in Cologne. I don’t do rushing anymore – unless I absolutely have to, so my plan was to leave the exhibition at the same time as my colleagues, and then make my way to the Hyatt, on foot, calling in at Gaststätte Lommerzheim on the way.

It was a 15-minute walk to the latter, and then an additional 15 minutes to the hotel, meaning ample time for a few Kölsches at Lommis, and still not be late for my dinner appointment. I took a direct route from Köln Messe, passing beneath the multitude of rail tracks that make up Köln Deutz station. Emerging the other side, I reached a mainly residential district, sprinkled with the odd retail outlet. What I didn’t manage to find was a cash machine, or Geld Automat as they say "auf Deutsch." They didn’t seem particularly common in Cologne, but perhaps I wasn’t looking in the right places. I needed some of eh folding stuff, as I knew that Lommi’s was cash only, but fortunately I still had a €5 note in my wallet, plus a pocket full of change.

Turning the corner into Siegesstraβe, I could hardly fail to spot Lommerzheim, as it stood out like the proverbial sore thumb. Compared to the surrounding, contemporary buildings, it obviously belonged to a different era, and the most likely explanation was the pub had somehow miraculously survived the bombing of World War II, that had flattened much of the surrounding area. The frontage looked as if it might once have been tiled, the wooden window frames seemed in need of a few coats of paint, and written large at the top of the building were letters spelling out the name - DORTMUNDER ACTIEN BIER. This puzzled me, as the beer market in Germany is still very localised, and to see the name of a brewery from a city, nearly 100 km away, was something I hadn’t come across before. I soon discovered that Kölsch, rather than Dortmunder was the beer on sale inside the pub, so I imagine the exterior sign is, like the pub itself, a survivor from a bygone age.

There was a handful of people milling around by the entrance, so I squeezed past and slipped in through the entrance at the centre of the pub. It was undeniably crowded inside, with every table and chair fully occupied, mainly by diners. There were also several ranks of drinkers propping up the bar – English style. This is something I have rarely seen before in Germany,  and again this is where Robert provides an explanation, with another comment on my post from 19^th March 2019. He states that “in the old neighbourhood Eckkneipe / Corner Pubs, you will find people sitting or standing together at the bar, although you will probably not encounter these kind of places that often as a tourist.”

I wondered how I would get served, but a couple of local women took pity on me by making sufficient room for me to get served. Päffgen Kölsch, dispensed from a wooden cask behind the bar counter, was the sole beer on sale, retailing at €2 a glass. Päffgen is one of the few independent Kölsch brewers remaining in Cologne, and in my view its beer is one of the best. I paid for my beer at the point of dispense, not realising that if I wanted a further glass,  I should have requested a beer mat, or Dekal. (Decal was an American word for a transfer when I was growing up).

This made sense, especially in a pub where seating was at a premium, as the drinker carries his or her own Dekal around with them. Then, each time a fresh beer is ordered, the bar staff make the usual tick on the beer mat, and the drinker settles up at the bar at then of the session. Fortunately, the staff were sympathetic towards a novice like me, and I was able to pay for my second beer at the bar before leaving.

Gaststätte Lommerzheim was one of those pubs you feel privileged to have visited, but rather than , coming across as a throw back to a bygone era, it struck me as a living organic entity. A real community local, catering to a wide age groups and a diverse range of customers. As well as serving some of the best Kölsch in Cologne, the food looked really inviting too. People were enjoying themselves, either in small groups or conversing with friends and neighbours.

I’m really glad I made the effort to track the place down, and experience it for myself, especially as I don’t know whether or not I shall be returning to Cologne. As you get older you really need to take advantage of opportunities as they present themselves, just in case they don’t some around again. Being able to visit places such as Lommi’s, makes foreign travel all the more worthwhile, and I look forward to seeking out similar classic pubs, in other parts of the world.