Friday 31 March 2023

Return to Norwich - a quick preview

I've got several articles worth of material following Wednesday's trip to Norwich, but before bashing these out, I thought I'd share a few photos with you of a day where I managed to cram a helluva lot in. I travelled by train, taking advantage of a reduced-price Advance ticket, that was rendered even cheaper with the use of my Senior Rail Card.

 An early start saw me boarding the 8.03 Cannon Street service from Tonbridge, and after alighting at London Bridge I took the Jubilee Line to Stratford. This was a rather strange stipulation of my advance ticket, but still allowed plenty of time, even on a severely overcrowded train between London Bridge and Canary Wharf.

In complete contrast, there were plenty of seats on the 09.38 service from Stratford to Norwich, and I enjoyed the comfort of the stylish Greater Anglia carriages. There were mobile phone charging points, situated between the seats and even a trolley service offering tea, coffee, and snacks.

The return 19.00 service from Norwich was even less crowded, possibly proving that Wednesday is a much better day than Friday to be travelling. This was my first visit to Norwich in nearly four years, and also my first opportunity to explore the city, properly in a decade. Two of the three pubs I visited, I had been in before, but I had ample time for a good wander around the streets of this largely unspoilt provincial capital and was able to experience a couple of different areas for the first time.

So, settle down and enjoy these photos, as there will be more about them later, but for the record, and for the benefit of both Dave and Retired Martin, the barman at the renowned King’s Head in Magdalen Street, could not have been more friendly and engaging than this fellow was. The people in both bars were, like me, enjoying the beer, the company, and the simple uncluttered surroundings.

The beer at the King’s Head, was also in first class condition, especially the Little Green Man 1, from the award-winning Green Jack Brewery in Lowestoft. This American Pale Ale was the beer highlight of the trip for me, and I’m sure friends back in Tonbridge, who are huge fans of this brewery, will be jealous.

Whilst this basic alehouse, which prides itself on being a “Keg Free House” was definitely the highlight of the trip pub-wise, wandering down from Saint Andrews Halls, across the river to what seemed to be the antique shop centre of Norwich, and then the walk back to the station, allowed me to see a delightful part of the city, and one I had barely touched on previous visits.

Of course, other parts had changed very little, and none more so than the Prince of Wales Road, which leads down from the castle area to the station. Home to much of the city’s nightlife, the POW road still tops the ranks for seediness and “Gentleman’s Clubs” – are such establishments still permitted in today’s politically correct world? 

I remember two of my Welsh cousins, both quite lively ladies, inadvertently booking a room in that part of town, when they came up to Norwich, for my mother’s funeral. Although used to the nightlife of both Swansea and London, they weren’t quite expecting such "lively" street scenes in “genteel” Norwich. Each blamed the other for the choice of hotel, although they did eventually see the funny side of things!

None of this should detract from my primary reason for making the trip up to Norwich. As I will explain in a subsequent article, this was a visit to Greenacres Woodland Burial Centre, at Colney, on the outskirts of Norwich, as this is where my parents ashes are interned. I hadn’t been there since before the pandemic, and at that time my father was still alive. An appropriate wooden plaque has been carved in their memory, and I wanted to see this for myself.

Those precious moments, remembering my parents, in the tranquil setting of this woodland cemetery, with its carpet of wild daffodils, allowed me to reflect on the happy and untroubled childhood they provided for me and my two sisters. Perhaps it’s only when you become older yourself, that you truly understand the importance of such things. I will elaborate more on this in a later article, but even though those though and memories were dispersed, by me having to make my way to the bus stop, for the journey back into Norwich, this was the main and most important reason for my visit to the city.

3 comments:

Dave said...

Quite a pretty cemetery. Kings Head. If I recall correctly it was more the customers than the bartender that made us uncomfortable. Sadly, I see little chance for us to revisit. Nice you had a chance to return though. Multiple visits is pretty important in my opinion. I think RM should do all the pubs a second time.

Paul Bailey said...

Hi Dave, thanks for your response. I must have struck lucky on my visit to the King's Head, as there was a good mix of customers. I largely confined myself to the front bar though, only nipping into the one at the rear, for a visit to the Gents.

Multiple visits are important, especially on different days and at different times, when it comes to establishing an overall picture of a pub, so I agree that RM should visit all the GBG pubs for a second time. I think, that despite protestations to the contrary, he is going for a second completion of the Guide. He would get bored if he didn't!

retiredmartin said...

Lovely piece, Paul.

I think RM should NOT do all the pubs a second time, but it was nice to return to the King's Head and I think Dave's view is, as so often, one I can understand.