A Day Out With BOB

On the 4th day of our trip to Munich we had a ride out into the beautiful countryside of Upper Bavaria. Our destination was a place we had been to on our last visit, but as we thought it so picturesque, decided we'd make a return visit. The place in question was the town of Tegernsee, on the lake of the same name in the Bavarian Alps, some 30 miles south of Munich. Tegernsee is home to the Herzogliche Brauerei, and its large Braeustueberl on the shores of the lake,  is an excellent place in which to enjoy beers from this regional brewery.

So where does BOB fit into all this? Well BOB stands for Bayerische Oberlandbahn, which is a private rail company that operates train services between Munich and Tegernsee, along with a number of other destinations. We had used the BOB service before, but only from Holzkirchen, which is at the end of the S5 suburban rail line to the south of Munich. This time we wanted to travel the entire distance using the private rail company, so for the sum of 25 Euros we purchased a return ticket to Tegernsee, which also allowed us to travel anywhere within the inner area on the MVV public transport system.

We caught the 10.10 from Munich Hauptbahnhof,  taking care to travel in the correct portion of the train as it splits twice en route in order to serve two other destinations (Lenggries and Bayisschzell). An hour later we arrived at our destination having left both the city and the flat lands to the immediate south of it behind and climbed up into what are the beginning of the Bavarian Alps. As we approached we could see the lake unfolding below us. The sun was shining and the temperatures rising (it had been quite chilly when we left Munich and we wondered, unnecessarily as it turned out, whether we might have departed under-dressed).

Leaving the station we walked the short distance down into the town and over to the lake, passing the Herzogliche Brauerei on the way. Tegernsee itself is an attractive small town with many buildings constructed in typical Alpine style. With their window boxes exhibiting colourful displays of geraniums, and other flowers, the whole place looked like a picture postcard. Tegernsee is nevertheless a busy working town, as well as a popular tourist destination and its Herzogliche Braeustueberl is undoubtedly one of its most popular attractions so far as visitors are concerned. The  Braeustueberl is housed in former monastery buildings, but the ecclesiastical connection ended in 1803 when the abbey was secularised and taken over by the Bavarian Royal Family, who continued with the brewing business that was formerly conducted by the monks.

Before calling in to slake our thirst, we had a short walk down to the lake shore, pausing to some photo's of the picture-book scenery. That done we returned to the Braeustueberl which houses a centuries old vaulted beer hall. Last time we visited we sat inside, but as the weather  this time was so good, we sat outside on benches shaded by some large vaulted umbrellas. Having arrived quite early we had no difficulty in obtaining a seat, but as the morning turned into afternoon more and more of the benches and tables became occupied, as an increasing number of  visitors started to arrive. Many seemed to have either cycled (not much fun in such hilly countryside), or walked. One groups of walkers told us they had been walking in the woods overlooking the lake for the past few hours and were now looking forward to a drink and something to eat.

Speaking of drink and food we ordered ourselves a half litre glass each of  the 4.8% Tegernsee Helles to begin with, before moving on to the much fuller bodied Spezial, which weighs in at 5.6%. To eat I treated myself to a Bavarian delicacy that I had been meaning to try for a long time, namely Weisswurst. These white, anaemic-looking veal sausages arrived swimming in hot water in a covered metal dish. They certainly tasted much better than they looked, and went down well with some sweet Bavarian mustard and a Brezn or two. Once we'd finished we had a quick look around the brewery shop, and I wish now that I'd bought a few bottles of the two Bock beers produced by the company.

We re-traced our footsteps up to the station and caught the 14.57 train back towards Munich. We didn't go the whole way to begin with choosing instead to break our journey at Holzkirchen, where we alighted and walked into the centre of this small town to undertake something we had failed to achieve back in 2009. The object then had been to try the beers from the Holzkirchener Oberbraeu brewery, but unfortunately we picked a day when the principle pub inn the town, and the former brewer tap, was closed for a rest day (Ruhetag). This time around Zum Oberbraeu was well and truly open, but was understandably quite quiet mid-afternoon. We sat outside in the courtyard at the rear and ordered a Helles each. I had noted that Holzkirchener Oberbraeu were acquired a few years ago by Koenig Ludwig Brauerei (the one owned by Crown Prince Luitpold of Bavaria), but according to the company's website the Holzkirchen plant continues to operate and still produces the Oberbraeu range of beers. I was therefore slightly puzzled when our beers arrived in glasses carrying the Koenig Ludwig Brauerei logo. I asked the waiter whether the beer was the locally brewed version and he assured me that it was, but this is one of the frustrating things about drinking in Germany as there is often no indication at point of sale as to what the beer is! Most of the time the beer is just dispensed from a series of anonymous looking taps.

I found the beer rather thin tasting, so we decided just to have the one and to make our way back to the station. On the way up to Zum Oberbraeu we had noticed a pub selling beers from Klosterbrauerei Reutberg, another former monastic brewery situated some 11 km from Holzkirchen. This was another brewery who's products I was particularly keen to try, so we stopped off at Gasthof Oberland in Muenchner Strasse and were very glad that we did. The pub had a covered veranda type area, overlooking the street at the front of the building, so we parked ourselves at a table there and waited for the waitress to come and serve us. When the beer arrived, the Reutberger Export Hell (5.1%) proved to be one of the best beers of the trip, coming only second to those we sampled at Forschungsbrauerei. Despite its relatively modest strength this Helles was a full-bodied and extremely malty tasting beer, and we were left wishing we had called in there first and given Zum Oberbraeu a miss!

It was very pleasant sitting out on the veranda watching the world go by; people were starting to make their way home after finishing work with the weekend about to unfold. Tempting though it was to stay and have another glass of this excellent beer we decided we had better head back into the city, particularly as the BOB trains only operate on an hourly basis. We walked the short distance back to the station and caught the train back to the Hauptbahnhof after what had been a most enjoyable day out in the Bavarian countryside.

Munich 2012

As I said in my previous post, our recent trip to Munich was not about tracking down rare or unusual beers, but more about having a good time, chilling out and putting the last 15 months well and truely behind us. Many people will know that Munich isn't the place to go to sample world-classic beers, and the products of the city's six large scale, industrial brewers are pretty indistinguishable from one another anyway, (certainly to my taste buds). However, they are still perfectly drinkable, and what's more Munich has some great places in which to enjoy them; none more so than the city's numerous beer gardens.

In order to make the most of  these establishments, we made full use of Larry Hawthorne's excellent Beer Drinkers Guide to Munich, just as we did on our last visit to the Bavarian capital, back in 2009.  Using this guide we were able to visit some smashing beer gardens; places one would hardly know existed, were it not for this well-researched publication. Beer gardens that really stood out were as follows:

Insel Muehle. S-Bahn to Allach followed by a short bus ride brought us to this delightful, secluded beer garden situated on the banks of the fast flowing River Wuerm. Augustiner beers, a light snack of Obatza cheese with a Brezn, combined with the sound of the rushing water  of the river in the background, made the perfect start to our time in Munich.

Alter Wirt. S-Bahn to Planneg, followed again by a short bus ride, took us to the Alter Wirt. This is an up-market pub-cum-restaurant, with a small, but pleasant beer garden, again overlooking the River Wuerm, to the rear. Augustiner beers were again the order of the day, but as the self-service stand was not open at the time of our visit (early lunchtime), we decided not to eat there but instead caught the bus two additional stops to:

Kraillinger Brauerei, which isn't a brewery anymore, but a large beer garden attached to a restaurant ,which now serves beers from Herrnbraeu in Ingolstadt, to the north of Munich. It was worth the short trip there to sample Herrnbraeu beers, in particular the full-bodied and malty Dunkles.

 Hirschgarten. Munich's largest beer garden needs little introduction and, as on our previous visit, didn't disappoint. For the un-initiated the garden is situated in a former royal hunting preserve, close to the opulent Schloss Nymphenburg, and can accommodate up to 8,000 drinkers. Part of the experience of a visit here is choosing one's Mass litre glass from a rack at the side of one of the self-service food stands, rinsing it in cold water in the basin provided, and then walking round the corner to fill it up at the Ausschank with fresh, cool Augustiner Edelstoff drawn straight from a large wooden cask.
 
It seemed like half of Munich was there during our early evening visit, but we still managed to find a table and enjoy a couple of litres of beer to accompany our halfroast chicken and chips. Beers from Hofbraeu Tegernsee and Kaltenberg are also available, but as we were planning to visit Tegernsee the following day, we stuck with the Augustiner.

Kugler Alm. We've wanted to visit this beer garden for a long time, and finally managed it last Sunday evening. After getting the orientation of Larry's map right, the 20 minute walk from Furth S-Bahn station, through open countryside, proved well worth while. Given it was the end of a hot weekend, the place was quiet, but this large, rural beer garden, situated on the edge of a forest really ticked all the right boxes; it even had a widescreen TV showing the ill-fated England v Italy Euro 2012 quarter final match for those masochistic enough to want to watch it!  Named after its original proprietor, Franz Xaver Kugler, the man who is also credited with the "discovery" of "Radler", (lemonade shandy to you and I), Kugler Alm afforded us the only opportunity of our trip of enjoying a Mass or two of Spaten Bier.

Forschungsbrauerei. S- Bahn to Perlach. Not really a beer garden, but a brewery with a pub and small beer garden attached. We visited Forschungsbrauerei on our previous visit to Munich, on a cool and rainy Saturday afternoon, when we discovered that after 4pm the establishment only sold its beers by the litre mug. This was fine for the normal (5.2%) Pilsissimus Export, but not so good for the 7.5% St Jakobus Blonder Bock!

Both beers were excellent, and without doubt the best we sampled on the entire trip. The same was true of our recent visit, despite the fact that the Jakob family, who founded the brewery in 1930, no longer control the business. This time the sun was shining, and the temperatures were in the upper 20's. We sat outside, under a sun-shade, in the small, but neat beer garden at the front of the brewery. Forschungs have a new, lower strength Sommer Helles available, and my son gave this beer a try. I went for the Pilsissimus Export, and am pleased to report is was as good as I remember, full-bodied and well-hopped, as was, in even greater measures, its stronger stablemate St Jakobus Blonder Bock. Fortunately the latter was available this time, in half litre measures, as were the other two beers, but all were served in traditional ceramic mugs. I have mixed feelings about these vessels as whilst undoubtedly they help the beer to stay cool for longer, they don't allow the drinker to appreciate the appearance or colour of the beer. We had some homemade potato soup, complete with chunks of Wiener sausages, for lunch, and this went down very well with the beer. All in all this was an excellent way to spend a hot Sunday afternoon, as the many other visitors to Forschungs demonstrated.

We also visited several of Munich's better known watering holes, including the famous Chinesischer Turm in the Englischer Garten where, along with much of Munich, we spent a welcome few hours as a break from Saturday afternoon shopping. Augustiner Grossgaststaette in the city centre, provided us with a good meal on our last evening in the city, and no article about Munich would be complete without a reference to the world famous Hofbraehaus. Love it or loath it, (and we love it!) the Hofbraehaus with its hordes of visitors from all over the world has a terrific and infectious atmosphere. I will even venture to say that despite its location and reputation it is not too pricey; all things considered.

Also worthy of a mention is Unionsbraeu, situated in the Haidhausen district on the other side of the Isar River/ This establishment is housed in the premises of  a former brewery that was acquired by Loewenbraeu back in 1922. In 1991 the place re-opened as a brew-pub, and today brews an interesting range of beers, first of which is the unfiltered Helles. We enjoyed several glasses of this exellent beer, along with our meal in one of the pub's many rooms.

We had a cople of disappointments. First Augustiner Braeustuben; not a disappointment itself, but disappointing that we chose to visit.on an evening that followed an hour or so of torrential rain.  It seemed that with many beer gardens closed, due to the inclement weather, half of the city had the same idea. The place was absolutely heaving, and the few tables that appeared free had "reserved" notices on them, A great pity really as this place looked really good. We have nade a note to re-visit at a quieter time, (if there is one!).

Secondly, Donisl, just off Marienplatz. I ate here on my first visit to Munich, back in 2005, and we have always used the place on subsequent trips. It offered good value for money, in characterful surroundings, with the added bonus of being able to sit outside during fine weather and watch the world go by. Sadly Donisl seems to have slipped a little. It's beer, Hacker-Pschorr was the dearest we encountered during our stay, at 4.3 Euros per half litre. In contrast the Hofbraehaus was charging a mere 7.30 Euros for a full litre! The food prices have also crept up. Nevertheless, we ate at Donisl on a couple of occasions, but the second time just had the one beer there before adjourning to the Hofbraehaus for the rest of the evening.

So there we have it, a short summary of our experiences amongst the beer gardens and beer halls of Munich. In addition to this, we had a couple of  trips out; one to Tegernsee and the other to Kloster Andechs. Both are venues worthy of a separate write-up, and I'll be doing that shortly.

ps. Please excuse any spelling mistakes. For the third day in a row, Blogger's spell checker does not appear to be working.

Normal Service Will Be Resumed Soon.

My son and I returned yesterday from a much needed, and long desired break in Munich. This wasn't a trip about tracking down obscure beers, or world classics, although we did come up with a couple of winners. It was more a case of enjoying the Bavarian capital, visiting some fantastic Biergartens and just generally chilling out.

The weather was glorious (sunny and warm), the food was hearty and high in calories, and although most of the beer we drunk came from the city's industrial size brewers, it still slipped down a little too easily! Above all we enjoyed that hard to defne mood/state/atmosphere that the Irish call Craic, the Danes Hygge and the Germans Gemuetlichkeit. There was certainly plenty of the latter in the Hofbraeuhaus; and yes we did manage to get served in less than five minutes on both visits!

There's much to report; mainly good, and I'll be elaborating further over the next week or two. In the meantime, I've a lot of catcing up to do and it's also back to work in the morning. An early night is therefore in order. Bye for now.

A Bus Trip to Lewes

It's Friday and the first day of my holiday, so what better way to spend it than in the company of friends visiting an historic town and taking in some unspoilt pubs? We were supposed to be attending the South Downs Festival in Lewes; in fact one of our party had been down to the county town a couple of weeks previously specifically to buy tickets for this "ticket only"event. Unfortunately he was unsuccessful in his quest, as all outlets had sold out. He even tried to purchase some in nearby Brighton. Undaunted we decided to travel down to Lewes anyway, but instead of visiting the beer festival we decided to have a tour around some of the town's pubs.

We stuck to our original plan which was to travel down to Lewes by bus. Brighton & Hove Buses operate an hourly service from Tunbridge Wells to Brighton, calling of course at Lewes en route. What's more the return fare is an unbeatable £3.70. Most of our group though, including myself, were starting from Tonbridge, so we had to buy an Explorer Day Ticket allowing us to use both the local Arriva services as well as those of the aforementioned Brighton & Hove Buses. This cost £6.80; still very reasonable given the distance involved.

Three of us set off from Tonbridge, alighting outside the BBC building in Tunbridge Wells where we were joined by Clive, the fourth member of our party, and the volunteer who had earlier attempted to obtain our tickets for the beer festival. The weather was chilly for the time of year, but dry, and after crossing the border into foreign parts (Sussex) we enjoyed a pleasant journey through the rolling wealden countryside. A little over an hour later we had arrived in the county town of East Sussex.

Our first port of call was the Harveys Brewery Shop, primarily to browse what was on offer in this well-stocked emporium, so that we could pick up heavy purchases, such as bottles of beer, glassware etc, later. Then, after Clive has led us to an independent record shop in the backstreets near the station, we climbed up to what is effectively the town centre, close to the law courts and the town's imposing castle.

A bit more browsing and it was time for our first pub and first pint of the day. Passing the long-closed Star Brewery (now converted into various craft workshops), that formerly belonged to Beard & Co, we made our way to one of the latter's former pubs, the unspoilt Lewes Arms. This solidly traditional back street local made national headlines a few years ago when it took on the might of Greene King. The Suffolk company had begun removing Harveys Best from all the former Beards pubs it acquired following the takeover of the company in 1998. However, regulars at the Lewes Arms were not prepared to give up their favourite tipple without a fight, and begun a boycott of Greene King products, and the pub itself. After adverse publicity, first in the local press, but then later nationally, Greene King relented and Harveys was restored to the Lewes Arms. A few years ago the pub had yet another new owner; this time Fullers. The Chiswick brewers though knew better than to try and remove the locals' favourite beer and today Harveys Best is on sale alongside a range of  Fullers and Gales beers.

Being the first pint of the day, two of us opted for the 3.9% Summer Ale; but Kevin couldn't resist the temptation of his favourite tipple and went straight in on the HSB! What is nice about the Lewes Arms is that it is a real community pub. It has three separate rooms, which are used by a variety of customers who comprise both local as well as visitors like ourselves. There is also a collection of traditional pub games, including the rare Sussex game of Toad in the Hole. 

We had a long day ahead so just had the one there, before departing for a further look around. The pub is built beneath the castle ramparts so we climbed up towards the summit on which stands the castle itself. From here we had an uninterrupted view north, across the town, towards the downs, and from the viewing platform could see the site of the Battle of Lewes which took place in 1264, and which saw the defeat of King Henry III and his army by forces led by Simon de Monfort, Earl of Leicester.

We were getting peckish by now, so making our way past the base of the impressive and commanding castle keep,  found our way to the second pub on our itinerary, the Brewers Arms. This family run free-house  occupies an attractive brick and part half-timbered building in the High Street and, as a terracotta plaque on the wall indicates, was once owned by Page & Overton, who brewed at Shirley, near Croydon. The Brewers is another pub with more than one bar; the front one, which is the more comfortable of the two, is for eating as well as drinking, whilst the larger bar at the rear, is more for pub games and stand-up drinking.

There was a good selection of beers available, but most of us opted for Hop Twister from Salopian Brewery, a pale, intensely-hopped 4.5% abv beer, that was both thirst quenching and satisfying. I also enjoyed an excellent steak and kidney pie, complete with new potatoes and a selection of vegetables, all for the princely sum of £7.00; real value indeed! Afterwards I risked a half of Dark Star Victorian Ruby Mild; a fine beer, but brewed to a typical Victorian strength of 6.0% abv! As well as the aforementioned beers, the Brewers Arms had a cask ale from Cotswold Brewery on sale, alongside the ubiquitous, and almost compulsory for Lewes, Harveys Best. I didn't take a lot of notice as to what the beer was called, but looking at Cotswold's website they seem to concentrate solely on lagers and wheat beers, rather than  English-style ales. All in all I was very impressed with the Brewers Arms, as I had been some four years previously on a similarly cold June day, when my friend Eric and I walked the South Downs Way.

It was a bit of a hike to the third pub on our itinerary, but the first part at least was all downhill. We called in at another record shop en route, but Clive was still unable to procure the obscure bluegrass cd he was looking for, and then continued down towards the Cliffe area of the town. Crossing the River Ouse by Harneys Brewery, we also passed the legendary Gardener's Arms, which we would be visiting later. We continued to the end of Cliffe High Street and turned left into South Street. At the far end we eventually reached our destination, the quirky Snowdrop Inn.  Rather than being named after winter flower the Snowdrop commemorates the Lewes Avalanche, which occurred on 27 December 1836, when a huge build-up of snow on a chalk cliff overlooking the town collapsed into the settlement 100 metres below, destroying a row of cottages and killing eight people. It remains the deadliest avalanche on record in the United Kingdom. The present pub was built on the site of the destroyed cottages, and named the Snowdrop in memory of this tragic event.

This was my first visit to the pub in nearly 20 years. When I worked in the town it was the nearest pub to the factory where I was employed, and was therefore a natural choice for a lunchtime drink Even back then it was a quirky sort of place, but I gather it had become rather run-down during the years in between before it was rescued by its current owners, in 2009. To me though, not a lot appeared to have changed, although the attractive, narrow-boat style paintings and decorations on the walls are a new and welcome addition.

The pub was pleasantly empty when we arrived, although that was soon to change when the beer festival closed  for the afternoon break. I noticed the pub had Budvar Light and Dark on tap, alongside Brooklyn Lager, but tempted though I was by the last two named beers, decided to stick to the more traditional offerings the pub had on sale, and was drawn to the two beers from Dark Star: American Pale Ale and Saison. The first beer was excellent, the second not so good, but still drinkable. It reminded me of a wheat beer; a style I have never been particularly keen on.

Time was moving on, and as a couple of our party were keen to get back in time for the England v. Sweden game, we had made a provisional decision to travel back by the 17.45 service. We re-traced our foot steps and made our way to the aforementioned Gardener's Arms. As expected, it was heaving and, regrettably, the Kissing Gate Smelter's Stout that I'd noticed on sale when we'd walked past earlier,  had all gone, (no doubt the refugees from the Beer Festival were partly to blame!). We still managed to find some space in the room at the rear, and I grabbed a couple of halves of Pot Belly Ambrosia Mild (pleasant, but nothing special) and Green Jack Mahseer IPA, (excellent).

I have known the Gardener's on and off over many years; it is a narrow pub with rooms to the front and rear of the central servery. Basic, probably sums it up, but it has always majored on serving an eclectic selection of beers, from some of the lesser known micro-breweries, although it has also in the past stocked "badged beers" from the likes of Archers and Cottage. The Archers connection is perhaps understandable, as I gather the guvnor is a Swindon Town FC fan; why else would there be a  photo of the team in the gents? Having said that it's a cracking pub, with an interesting mix of both regulars and visitors alike.

There was time for just one more pint before  catching the bus home. Just round the corner of the next block lies the John Harvey Tavern; the closest pub to Harvey's Brewery, and one that stocks a wide range of the company's beers. So far as I remember, the John Harvey has only been a pub for around 15 years, but the building itself is much older, and is constructed from local flints. .As mentioned earlier, the pub stocks a good selection of Harvey's beers, some of which are dispensed by gravity from casks kept behind the bar. My pint of  Armada was certainly in tip-top condition.

We stood outside, enjoying the sunshine, but all too soon it was time to go. The bus we had selected was the express service with  fewer stops and hence a much faster journey time home. It had been an excellent day out; much better than being stuck inside a beer festival. The visit  reminded me just what a charming town Lewes is; charming yet at the same time slightly Bohemian in character and possessed by an independent spirit coupled with a strong sense of local pride. It's a town I will keep going back to, as it has the right mixture of drive, quirkiness and sense of its own past to want to draw people back. Also there are several more interesting pubs just waiting to be explored!
 

As you may have gathered, I have something of a soft spot for Lewes. This historic old town nestles in a fold in the South Downs, and with its narrow twisting streets, and  attractive ancient buildings, occupies a fitting role as the county town of East Sussex. Lewes has some deep-rooted traditions, the best known of which are the famous bonfire-night celebrations that take place every year  on November 5th. Then the whole town comes to a standstill, as various local bonfire-societies parade through the town in a  variety of colourful costumes.

Probably the main reason though why Lewes rate so highly in my affections, is that it is home to my favourite brewery - Harvey & Son Ltd. In addition, but of secondary importance, is the fact that I spent  three and a half years working just outside the town. Although I disliked the job I was doing (as well as the long journey each way), I did leave a number of good friends there when I left.

You can see Lewes lying like a box of toys under a great amphitheatre of chalk hills ... on the whole it is set down better than any town I have seen in England.

— William Morris (1834-1896)

A Curious Brew?

In my last post I mentioned how the number of breweries in Kent had now reached the magic figure of 25, and wondered if this number could survive in what is a very competitive and, at times, cut-throat market. However, reading reports submitted by  the various CAMRA Brewery Liaison Officers, it seems they are all reporting buoyant and, often increasing, sales which is good news indeed. One way they can continue to grow is by specialising in certain areas and, perhaps offering something unique that will appeal to certain small, but growing niche markets. The latter course can quite often be financially rewarding for a company, particular when it is one of the first on the scene

I was prompted to write this post after picking up a couple of what I would call "boutique-style" beers in our local Waitrose the other day, and having tried them I have to say they are rather good. The beers in question are Curious Porter and Curious IPA. Both come packaged in attractively labelled 33cl bottles and, what's more, they appear to be brewed in Kent.  According to the back label on the bottle, the beers are produced by English Wines Group plc., at the Chapel Down Winery, just outside Tenterden. This company does NOT feature on the list I alluded to in my last post, so if they are actually brewed at Tenterden, this brings the number if breweries in the county to 26!




Curious Porter is described as a "Bottle-conditioned, English Porter, matured with oak". It has an abv of 5.0% and according to the producers has been brewed from a mixture of crystal, chocolate, black and amber malts, all made from floor malted Sussex barley. The "bittering hop" is Sussex grown Admiral with a small amount of Goldings added as late hops. The notes then go on to say: "Matured with oak to give a delicate balance of sweetness and bitterness, this beer is bottle-conditioned and un-pasteurised to preserve the extraordinary flavours."

Curious IPA is described as an "Intensely hopped India Pale Ale". It has an abv of 5.6% and is brewed using the finest pale ale malt and three complimentary hops; Goldings, Bramling Cross and Citra. The producers claim that in balancing these three hops they have created "a beer of great power yet drinkable harmony." Whilst I wouldn't quite put it that way myself, I have to agree they have created an excellent beer, and one I will certainly be trying again.

The porter is equally good, and looking on the company's website, I notice they also produce a similarly packaged, 4.7% abv lager, called simply Curious Brew, which is cold-filtered and un-pasteurised. Although one might expect a corporate website to say this, there appears to be a good ethos about the company, and they certainly seem committed to producing top quality wines and beers. They state "We have assembled a team of highly professional, talented people who share an ambition to create truly World Class, interesting, distinctive and award-winning wines that will surprise and delight the most discerning consumers." 


It appears that renowned brewer Andy Hepworth, has been involved with the brewing, so whether the beers are produced at his Horsham brewery rather than Tenterden, remains to be seen. Whatever the case they are very good and well worth a try if you spot them on the shelf of your local supermarket.

"Curious Brew is a range of three beers that are a fusion of brewing and wine-making techniques.
Drawing on both beer know how from Andy Hepworth multi-award winning brewer from Sussex and wine-making expertise from Chapel Down, we believe this range of beer offers the discerning beer drinker a unique experience.
Well balanced, carefully considered and patiently brewed. Curious Brew represents the best of English brewing."

Kent's Quarter Century

Well it's official, as I've just received confirmation via CAMRA's Regional Brewery Report, that the number of breweries operating in Kent has  reached 25. Not bad for a county the size of ours, and whilst I have reservations as to whether all these companies can survive, it is still an achievement to be proud of.

The breweries range in size from brew-pubs (we have two in the county; one in the east and one in the west), through to Kent's largest, and the country's oldest, brewery - Shepherd Neame of Faversham. In between are the likes of some of the longer established concerns such as Gadds, Goachers, Hodaemon, Larkins, Millis, Nelson, Westerham and Whitstable,  plus more recent arrivals such as Black Cat, Kent Brewery, Moodleys, Old Dairy, Royal Tunbridge Wells and Tonbridge Brewery.

Now with the establishment of brand new breweries in Ashford, Canterbury, Dover, Hythe and Maidstone the magic figure of 25 has been reached. As I said at the beginning, I just hope there is sufficient trade in the county for them all to survive as, in common with other parts of the country, we have had casualties in the past; Ales of Kent, Kent Garden Brewery and Swale Brewery spring to mind.

In the meantime though, I haven't managed to sample the wares of all of Kent's breweries yet; in fact I still have a fair way to go with the products of 10 enterprises yet to try! For a list of all the county's breweries please click on the following link. Kent Breweries.

Diamond Jubilee Weekend.

Well  I'm sitting here, enjoying a beer or two whilst watching the end of the Jubilee Concert and there's still one more day to go! The weather's been slightly better than yesterday, which wouldn't be difficult, but hey it's not been a bad Diamond Jubilee Weekend so far.


Saturday saw a group of us attending the beer festival at the Halfway House at Brenchley which, as always, didn't disappoint.  There were fifty cask ales on sale, all in tip top condition, served in the splendid rural setting that is the garden of this legendary West Kent pub. As usual Dave Aucutt of East-West Ales had selected and sourced the beers and also written the tasting notes. Highlights for me were Hawkshead Windermere Pale, Naylor's Velvet, Yeovil Stargazer and York Centurion's Ghost. The weather stayed dry, and the sun even came out for a while in the afternoon. A few of us had walked over, and a couple of us walked back. The festival continues until tomorrow, Tuesday, when a total of 75 different beers will have been served.

Yesterday, we joined friends for an excellent jubilee dinner where, despite the inclement weather we sat out under a gazebo in the garden enjoying our meal and raising a toast to Her Majesty.

Today I've managed to do a bit in the garden as well as catch up on some domestic chores. Alongside the excellent beers I enjoyed at the Halfway House, two bottled beers really stand out this weekend. The first was M & S London Porter. Brewed exclusively for Marks and Spencer by Meantime Brewery of Greenwich, this 5.5% abv beer claims to be brewed to an authentic recipe from 1750. Seven different malts are used in the beer; it doesn't say what they are, (apart from malted barley and wheat!), but the beer is described as having  "A sweet caramel flavour, followed by a smoky maltiness." The beer is dark reddish-brown in colour, as all good porters should be, rather than jet black, (probably a much more authentic colour). There is a definite chocolate flavour, so far as I am concerned, and one that is decidedly moreish.  One would expect a brewery with credentials such as Meantime to have done their research thoroughly, and the end result is one that definitely does not disappoint. This is definitely one of the best beers I have sampled in a long time!

The other beer is an old favourite; Adnams Broadside. The bottled version weighs in at a hefty 6.3% abv, as opposed to just 4.7% for the cask version, but really is the perfect marriage of malt and hops, especially after an hour or so's chilling in the fridge! Enjoying a glass of this excellent beer whilst listening to U2's Beautiful Day blasting out from the computer's speakers really is the way to end a perfect day.

As for tomorrow, well the forecast is showing a promising start, but after that it goes rapidly downhill. If I can finish off what I started earlier in the garden before the rain sets in then perhaps a trip down to our local Wetherspoons in the afternoon is in order, if only to see what beers they've got left on sale. Hopefully the range is more inspiring than it was last time I called in; but that's another story!

The Kentish Rifleman - Dunk's Green

Friday,  like both yesterday and today, was a gloriously hot and sunny day, with not a cloud in the sky. It was the ideal day for a walk in the picturesque Kent countryside, taking in a pub stop, or two, along the way.  I've got some leave to use up, so had booked the day off work and couldn't have been more fortuitous in my choice.

I had been in contact with my friend Don who, like myself, is a keen walker, and we had decided to visit the Kentish Rifleman in the tiny hamlet of  Dunk's Green, situated between Plaxtol and West Peckham. Although Don is quite familiar with this pub, it is getting on for twenty years since my last visit, so a return there was long overdue.

We caught the bus as far as Hadlow, alighting at the far end of the village, and then followed a series of footpaths that led us slowly up towards the Greensand Ridge. We stopped on a suitably sited seat, amongst a field of cows, to eat our sandwiches and take in the view. Although conditions were slightly hazy, we could see back towards Tonbridge and across to Castle Hill on the horizon. We then turned due west, skirting the Victorian pile of Oxen Hoath House before coming across the sadly closed Artichoke pub at Hamptons. Now converted into private dwellings,  I couldn't help reflect on the loss of this fine old attractive inn. I'm not quite certain of the reasons for the pub's closure, (property prices probably) and can't remember quite when it took place, but I remember being surprised when I heard the news, as it always seemed a really popular venue.

Crossing the lane in front of  the Artichoke, we continued through cornfields, along the Greensand Way,  in a roughly north-westerly direction, eventually arriving at our destination around 1.30 pm. It wasn't a long walk, by any stretch of the imagination, but with temperatures in the mid to high twenties it was probably far enough. From the outside the pub looked little changed from how I remembered it 20 odd years ago, and indeed stepping inside not much seemed to have altered either. This, whilst welcoming, was slightly surprising as I knew the pub had suffered a serous fire back in 2007 that had caused substantial damage to this early 16th Century building.

There are still effectively two bars, with the more comfortably furnished "saloon" to the rear of the pub. After ordering our beer we walked through the latter and out into the very pleasant and secluded garden. Finding a suitably shady spot we sat down to enjoy our beer - Tolly Cobbold English Ale, sold at  £2.75 a pint. I have to say that despite its low strength of just 2.8% abv  I really enjoyed this beer. On a hot summer's day it was just what the doctor ordered, and ticked all the right boxes so far as I was concerned. The beer certainly had plenty of flavour, and was so enjoyable that we both decided to go for a second pint as well! Other beers on sale at the Rifleman  were Harvey's Best (it gets everywhere, but is still a cracking pint!), and Native, a 3.7% abv offering from Whitstable Brewery.

I wouldn't say the pub was packed, but there was a steady flow of customers, most of who were taking advantage, like ourselves, of the opportunity of some al fresco eating and drinking. We left the pub just after 3pm, when it closed for the afternoon break (not a lot of point of being  open all day around here). We headed back towards Hadlow, following a slightly different route through the delightful, and virtually hidden, Bourne Valley. What was noticeable about both the outward and return journeys, was the fact we never saw another soul on either walk, which was puzzling on such a lovely day. Perhaps it shows that even here in the over-crowded South East it is still sometimes possible to escape the crowds.

We arrived back in Hadlow shortly before five o'clock, which left time for a quick pint in the Two Brewers, one of the four pubs that now remain in the village, and one that is easily the best. The fact that the Two Brewers belongs to Harveys of Lewes is the first thing in its favour, the second being it is still a proper village local.with two bars and a variety of traditional pub games. Its biggest plus though is the quality of its beer, with Cask Marque accreditation and Good Beer Guide status reflecting this. We were spoilt for choice with Harvey's Dark Mild, Knots of May Light Mild, Hadlow Pale, Olympia and Armada on sale alongside the Best Bitter. Don opted for the 3.0% Knots of May, whilst I went for the 3.5%  Hadlow Pale. Both, I'm happy to report, were in tip-top condition.

We could have stayed for another, but as both of us had a lot of things to do come the weekend we reluctantly left the pub, wandered down to the main square and caught the bus back to Tonbridge. It had been a most enjoyable day out that was made all the more so by the glorious weather, the attractive scenery and two excellent, but very different, pubs, both of which appear to be doing well and bucking the national trend!

Aecht Schlenkerla Eiche

I'm drinking a beer that is getting on for a year past its sell by date. I bought it back in December 2010 whilst on a trip to Bamberg in what must have been one of the coldest, and snowiest, winters of recent times. The beer in question is Aecht Schlenkerla Eiche, and I picked it up, along with a host of others, in what is undoubtedly Bamberg's most famous pub, the Schlenkerla tavern. It is a Doppelbock style beer, and with an abv of 8.0% is not a beer to be taken lightly. It is perhaps slipping down rather too easily for a beer of this strength so it's just as well I've only got the one to enjoy!

Many readers will be familiar with the Rauchbier (Smoke Beer) produced by Heller-Braeu Trum, with its highly distinctive taste derived from the malt used in its production being kilned over fires of beechwood logs. This gives the beer a pronounced smoky character that some people just cannot get on with but which I find most enjoyable and even quite addictive. What makes the Eiche Doppelbock different though is that the malt  is dried over oak, rather than the usual beechwood. This imparts a totally different taste to the finished beer. I don't know if the much longer maturation period my beer has been through has mellowed the smokiness, or whether oak gives a smoother flavour anyway, but this really is a superb beer that is none the worst for being kept way beyond its best before date. Chewy toffee malt is to the fore, although the aroma still has a distinctive smokiness about it. The brewery's own tasting notes indicate that "Oak Smoke Malt has a smoother and more multi layered smoky note than the intensely aromatic Beech Smoke Malt.", and this bears out my comments above.
 
I did sample the beer on draught during my visit some 18 months ago, although I can't really remember what it tasted like. Despite being filtered, my bottle had thrown quite a sediment, so required careful pouring. It was definitely worth  the long wait to finally enjoy this excellent beer.

ps. I still have a couple of bottles left over from my period of abstention that are also well passed  their best before dates. Both are from Woodforde's, and both are bottle-conditioned. They were sent by the brewery's PR Company for me to review.  Regular readers will know I am not a great lover of BCA's, especially as the process seems to be so hit and miss. Hopefully these bottles may have improved, rather than deteriorated,  but I obviously won't  know until I try them.  
(The Brakspear's Triple, which I reviewed recently,  was a similar age, so perhaps the Woodforde's offerings will also be ok.)

The Pubs of Tonbridge - Part One

Well  I've been threatening for some time to post about my adopted home town of  Tonbridge, but the article seems to keep growing. You see when you've lived in a place as long as I have there's so much to write about, so many pubs I have known over the years, and so many changes that have occurred. So where to begin?  Let's start with a short description of the town, mixed in with a bit of history, then we'll look at the pubs. There's a lot to get through, so this feature will be in several parts. The first  is about the three pubs that are virtually on my doorstep.

Tonbridge is a busy market town, situated on the River Medway at the upper limit of navigation. It has a population of  some 30,300 people. Although today it is overshadowed by its larger and better known neighbour,  Tonbridge is far older than the upstart Tunbridge Wells, tracing its origin back to Saxon times when it was an important crossing point of the Medway. The Normans certainly recognised its strategic importance, as they constructed a castle, overlooking the river, soon after the conquest. The castle was enlarged and replaced by a stone-built structure during the 12th Century, when it was held for the crown by the de Clare family. Although slighted by Parliament after the Civil War, when much of the surrounding walls were dismantled and used as a source of high quality building stone, the impressive gatehouse remains largely intact, and indeed was recently re-roofed as part of the town's millennium project.

For many years the majority of the town's trade depended on waterborne traffic along the Medway, but in 1842 the town's fortunes changed with the opening of the line between London and the Channel coast, via Redhill. Today Tonbridge is an important junction on the rail network, with lines to London, Ashford, Hastings and Redhill. The town became known for printing and publishing, but both these industries have declined in recent years along with what was once Tonbridge's other mainstay - the production of cricket balls and other sports goods. Today the largest companies in the town are involved with light engineering, distribution and financial services, but the rail link to London also means that many Tonbridge residents are commuters; a fact that almost certainly has a bearing on the trade in local pubs.

One would expect an important market town like Tonbridge to have its fair share of decent hostelries, and until fairly recently this was the case. Unfortunately, in common with towns up and down the country, a substantial number of pubs have been lost during the last quarter of a century; a process that has accelerated in recent years.

I first became acquainted with the town back in 1979, when I started work as  Company Chemist for a firm involved in the Water Treatment industry. Five years later I moved to the town itself, rather than having to commute each day from Maidstone. I have now lived in the town for the best part of 30 years; far longer than I have lived anywhere else. I therefore feel more than qualified to write about Tonbridge's pubs, both past and present.

I am quite fortunate in so much that within 5 minutes walk of my home there are still three fairly decent boozers; even though they have, without exception, changed out of all recognition since I first knew them. Probably the nearest is the Cardinal's Error which, whilst a centuries old building, has only been a pub since the early 1950's. The Cardinal's started life as two adjoining 15th Century farm cottages, which were converted into today's pub in order to serve the post-war housing development that was springing up all around them. Although the pub has been knocked around a bit over the last 60 or so years, there's only so much one can do with a listed building without totally ruining it. Even though the latest alteration added  an extension to one side of the building,  the Cardinal's retains the essential feel of the two-bar pub it started life as. I visited it with my son, a couple of weeks ago and although it was a Friday night we had virtually the whole of the former public bar to ourselves - all the other punters being crowded into the other section of the pub which houses the TV (why on earth do people go to the pub to watch the tele?). The Harveys Best on sale wasn't the best pint I've drunk, but it was still quite drinkable.

The same distance in the other direction, lies the Primrose Inn. From the outside this is an attractive white-painted, typically Kentish weather boarded inn, but getting on for twenty years ago the former two bars were knocked through into one, and the serving area moved over to one side.  I first knew the Primrose back in the early 1980's when myself plus a group of  work colleagues would go there once a week for a lunchtime drink, (how we ever got any work done in the afternoon after three pints of Fremlins Bitter is beyond me, but that's another story!). Harveys Best and London Pride are the cask ales on offer here today, in what is a small, cosy and  comfortable pub, with low ceilings and a number of different alcoves.

Slightly further away is the Vauxhall Inn,  a former coaching inn situated on the edge of town on what was, until fairly recent times, the main road from London to Hastings. This is another pub that has been altered out of all recognition. When I first moved to Tonbridge my wife and I had a dog and this was a perfect place to go with said hound after she had been exercised around the adjacent fields. Back then, like many local pubs, the Vauxhall was owned by Whitbread.  It was fairly basic and perhaps a trifle run down, but it had character and a welcoming open fire in the winter.

Then the pub was sold off to a local pub company, who had a hand full of pubs scattered across West Kent. It was extended to the rear and also joined to the neighbouring, former stable block. This effectively trebled the pub in size. The original part of the building contained the bar, whilst the rear extension, plus the old stable block formed the main dining areas. The real open fires were replaced by fake, gas-fuelled "log-effect" fires and the place re-opened as a "Chimneys" restaurant.  Dogs of course were no longer welcome, so I too decided that my custom was not wanted either, and took myself elsewhere. Like the Primrose, the Vauxhall is weather boarded and over the years since its enlargement has mellowed with age. Today, unless you are in the know, you would be hard pushed to distinguish the old parts from the new.

Also today, the Vauxhall has new owners, and is now a Chef and Brewer pub. It's a pleasant enough place to go for a quiet drink, even  though prices are on the dear side. The beer range consists of London Pride plus one or two guest ales from the Chef and Brewer range (typically Adnams Bitter and Broadside,  Everards Tiger, Wells Bombardier and Young's Bitter), but the beers are spoilt by being pulled through a sparkler which the pub management are reluctant to remove - even when asked politely if they can do so. (Whatever happened to the customer always being right?). On the plus side, there is a Premier Inn adjacent to the pub, which makes this a good base for those visiting the area.

Well that sums those pubs which are nearest to me. It must be said, they are not a bad selection, even if the choice of beer is rather limited.  Next time we'll look at those a bit further afield, before venturing down into the town centre and exploring what Tonbridge has to offer on a  Friday or Saturday evening.

More Beer Bargains at Lidl's

There's some bargains  to be had in Lidl's at the moment, with three different Brain's beers on sale for just £1.29 a bottle! The beers are Brains Dark, SA, and Reverend James. In my opinion this a much deal than the Marston's Fever Pitch, a 4.2% pale ale brewed in advance of the forthcoming Euro 2012 Championship, which was the offer a couple of weeks ago. Although just £1.19 a bottle, I found this beer a trifle bland, but as I still have a couple of bottles left I am willing to give it another chance.

Going back to the Brain's, this is a good range of bottles sold at bargain prices, so it's certainly worth getting down to Lidl's and grabbing a few bottles, while stocks last.

Brain's Dark, at 4.1% is a fine example of a traditional mild ale, and with CAMRA branches celebrating "Mild in May Month", this is the perfect way to be supporting this endangered style of beer.

Fuerstenberg Premium Lager

I described a couple of the Thwaites beers I bought in Morrison's recently, but what I didn't mention was the excellent "Premium Lager" from the Fuerstenberg Brewery, situated in the town of Donaueschingen in Germany's Black Forest, that was also on sale in the store. Priced at just £1.49 a bottle, this extremely pale coloured beer has a slight floral nose, and is one of the smoothest and cleanest tasting beers I've come across in a long while. By that I don't mean it's bland, just a very pleasant 5.3% abv beer that's not too challenging, but just very pleasant to drink and enjoy. I don't know if it's a permanent feature on Morrison's shelves, but with that price and quality it's well worth checking out.

A Walk to the Dovecote

On Bank Holiday Monday I joined three friends for a  walk out to the Dovecote at Capel. We were fortunate in picking what turned out to be the best day of a wet and cold Bank Holiday weekend, and even saw the sun for a few short moments along the way.

We passed through several woods carpeted with bluebells, and it was nice to hear the birds singing in the trees. The weather, whilst still cool for the time of year, at least stayed dry and was certainly a lot warmer than it had been for most of the weekend and preceding week.

 After being cooped up in doors, decorating for two days, it was really nice to be out in the fresh air!  However,  following April's record rainfall, the ground was very wet and soggy underfoot and we were all glad we'd chosen stout walking boots to wear. At least our feet stayed dry, but I have to question the Environment Agency's assertion that we are still in a drought situation, as given the saturated nature of the ground underfoot I feel that the reservoirs and underground aquifers must surely be well on their way towards being replenished by now.

Our route was a  familiar one; up past the Victorian grandeur of Somerhill House, through the woods at the back of this stately pile, and then through the estate to Tudeley. From here we followed an undulating course that took us through more woodland, the occasional orchard and a very soggy field of rape. We arrived at the Dovecote shortly after midday, and after removing our muddy boots, made our way inside and grabbed a table.

The Dovecote doesn't have a website, so a few words first about the pub itself. It is situated in the small settlement of Capel, which lies to the south of Five Oak Green, on the back road between Colts Hill and Tudeley. From the outside it is a typical Victorian building, that has been extended at the front and the side, whilst to the rear there is a part-covered terrace, plus an extensive garden and large car-park.

Being in such a rural location the Dovecote has to have something different to offer its customers. It does this by selling a wide range of cask beers (up to six), direct from the cask together with good, home-cooked food all served in comfortable and uncluttered surroundings. On the day of our visit there were four beers on tap,  and whilst some of us were slightly disappointed not to see any local beers on sale (the Dovecote is a regular outlet for beers from Tonbridge Brewery) we were compensated by the choice of a couple of beers that we don't often get the chance to drink in this area. These beers were Brakspears Bitter and Gales HSB,  served alongside Harvey's Best and Taylors Landlord.

Most of us opted for the Brakspears to start with, and it was so good that I chose it for my second pint as well. At just 3.4% this beer manages to pack in bundles of flavour combined with that unmistakable Brakspears taste that comes from the use of the original yeast and the famous "double-drop" fermentation system. It certainly is the perfect session bitter. A couple of us were bemoaning the demise of the company's Special Bitter, but with the ordinary being so good, the absence of the Special didn't seem to matter quite so much.

The pub was starting to fill up quite rapidly, with a good mixed clientele, including a couple of groups of bikers who had ridden back from Hasting following the annual May Day Run.  What is nice about the Dovecote is there is no recorded  music or other electronic distractions to disturb the gentle art of conversation.

 We ordered our food and didn't have long to wait for it to arrive. When it came it was as good as the beer; my prawn baguette being a meal in itself, especially as it arrived accompanied by a plateful of chips as well. I was going to have Landlord for my final pint, but after a friend had pointed out how good the Harvey's was I decided to go for the more local brew instead. Apart from at the brewery it's not often one gets the chance to drink this beer straight from the cask, and I have to say it really was in tip-top form.

We left the pub some time after three, but not before having a brief chat with landlord Nick. After we'd complemented him on his beer and his food, and saying how pleased we were to see the pub so busy, he told us that they had been like that for some time. It was good to see somewhere that is bucking the trend, but just goes to prove that if you give people what they really want, namely good beer, good food with fast, friendly and efficient service in pleasant surroundings, then they will come back for more. Incidentally the beer prices ranged from £3.25 for the Brakspears through to £3.40 for the HSB, which are pretty good for the area.

Our walk back followed a slightly different route and led us through both Capel and Tudeley churchyards. There had been a heavy shower whilst we were in the pub, but the weather remained dry on our homeward route, and the sun even came out for a while. All in all it was most enjoyable day out and a good way to end what would otherwise have been a disappointing Bank Holiday weekend.

Brakspear Triple III

It's a cold and slightly damp early May evening and definitely NOT the sort of weather we should be experiencing at this time of year! What better then than to crack open a bottle of Brakspear Triple III that I'd had laying around at home for ages. From memory I believe I bought it for Christmas 2010, but never got round to drinking it. By following the instructions on the label, and clicking onto the Brakspear's website, I was able to check when my individually numbered bottle was filled (4th September 2010), so it is now over a year and a half old. It is none the worse for this though, as being bottle-conditioned the beer has matured like a fine old wine.

It was very lively when poured, but not excessively so that it fobbed everywhere. Even so, and despite slow and careful pouring on my part, it formed a thick, fluffy head which meant I had to drink half of it before I could get the rest into the glass! Fortunately both halves poured perfectly clear, and I was left with a glass of  sparkling, light-mahogany coloured beer with a hoppy nose and a wonderfully complex and very satisfying taste. The notes on the label describe the beer much better than I can, viz: "Thanks to the two fermentations in the Brakspear 'Double Drop' system, this highly aromatic and satisfying strong beer delivers its rich flavour with subtlety and balance. Crystal, Black and Maris Otter pale malts provide the backbone of this outstanding rich beer. Hops are added three times to provide a good balance between bitterness and fragrance."

Whilst the head brewer adds: “This is a remarkable beer which is a challenge to brew but a pleasure to drink. It is triple hopped, triple fermented & brewed by the infamous “Double Drop” method in the brewery. A connoisseur’s beer, with a wonderfully complex flavour, aroma & bottle conditioned. Beer at its best.”

That sums up this excellent beer nicely. My bottle had certainly matured well and had developed a slightly vinous edge, reminiscent of a Madeira wine.It was also a full 500ml rather than the sissy 330ml size it is sold in today!

A Taste of Lancashire

We've a new Morrison's supermarket in Tunbridge Wells. Well it's not exactly new, it's a re-opened store; the original having been closed by the company just a few years after they acquired it as part of their takeover of Safeways.

I was looking forward to an outlet stocking a different selection of beers, but when I popped in last weekend I found what was on sale a trifle disappointing. I did however, pick up a couple of beers from Blackburn based brewers Thwaites. I don't often get the chance to drink the company's beers, as apart from a few of the better known ones, such as Wainwright, Lancaster Bomber and Old Dan, one doesn't often see them on sale in this part of the country.

The two bottles I bought were unfamiliar to me; Indus IPA 4.6% and Tavern Porter 4.7%. The former
is a well-hopped, amber-coloured beer named after a former trading ship. The profile notes on the bottle read. "When Daniel Thwaites was embarking on his brewing career, the INDUS would have been voyaging to the East Indies – trading Lancashire cotton for exotic Eastern delights. Our INDUS Pale Ale celebrates ales of that period with a refreshing brew enriched with abundant hops for flavour that stays fresh and crisp to the finish."
The latter is described as a "Traditional porter, with a slightly sour taste. Full roasted flavours with a hint of smoky liquorice."

Whilst neither beer was over exciting they were still eminently drinkable, and of the two I preferred the Porter which, incidentally, was bottle-conditioned. I do have a slight soft spot for Thwaites, as when I was at Salford University, during the mid 1970's,  Thwaites beers were served in the Students' Union bar. They were brewery-conditioned, rather than cask, but they were still a vast improvement on the Scottish and Newcastle slop that had been on sale when I first arrived on campus. The company had quite a few pubs to the north of Manchester, particularly in and around Bury, and in my final year a Salford I quite frequently drank in some of these, especially as I had a couple of friends living in the area. At the time, Thwaites brewed two milds alongside their bitter, and whilst I've never been a huge fan of mild ale, I recall that the darker of these two milds was particularly good.

Thwaites were one of the first breweries I visited. Their modern brewery in the centre of Blackburn had only been operating for 8 years at the time of our visit during the mid 1970's. Whilst modern in construction, it was still a traditional tower brewery, but apart from that I don't remember much about it. There was no sampling room as such; instead we had been taken to a nearby pub by our guide in order to sample the beers, and this was before the tour!

Given the above, I was all the more interested then to read that Thwaites are planning to build a new brewery, on a green-field site, and move out of their current home (Presumably to realise the value of what must be a prime site right in the centre of Blackburn). This represents a major investment for the company, and confirms their commitment to remain in brewing. They state that the new brewery will be "state of the art", and plan to incorporate a visitor centre as part of the development. According to their website, they are still looking for a suitable site at the moment, so brewing will obviously continue in Blackburn for the time being. When the new plant does finally open I hope to pay it a visit so I can compare the new with the old and, of course, renew my acquaintance with some of Thwaites's draught beers.