Faversham

Faversham is a charming market town situated on the north Kent coast. It is situated 48 miles from London and 10 miles from Canterbury, and lies just south of the Swale; the strip of sea which separates mainland Kent from the Isle of Sheppey. It is a town of just over 19,000 souls, and has good communication links with both the capital and the coast, lying as it does on the old Roman road of Watling Street (now the A2). Back in medieval times it was also a seaport with a tradition of shipbuilding, although the silting up of Faversham Creek has restricted its connection to the sea.

The town was  formerly a centre of the explosives industry, and was renowned for the manufacture of gunpowder. Brewing gradually became more dominant, and until quite recent times there were two major breweries facing each other  across Court Street; just of the town centre. Shepherd Neame, of course, are still operational and are one of Faversham’s major employers, but the substantial and sprawling brick-built group of buildings, on the other side of the street, were formerly the premises of Messrs George Beer & Rigden.

For most of my lifetime the brewery was part of the Whitbread group and operated under the name of Fremlins. The latter were originally based in Maidstone, and in their time were the largest brewery in Kent. Fremlins acquired Beer & Rigden back in 1949, but kept the Faversham plant in production. When Fremlins were purchased by Whitbread in 1967, production was centred on Faversham, with the Maidstone brewery ceasing production in 1972.

Eighteen years later, Whitbread closed the Court Street premises, and the buildings stood empty for some time. In 1996, after much reconstruction and renovation, one of the former brewery buildings opened as a Tesco supermarket, but I have been unable to discover the fate of the other two structures. I was fortunate to have had a trip round the brewery, back in the early 1980’s, when it was still flourishing, and I have course, enjoyed several guided tours around Shepherd Neame, just across the road.

My son and I found ourselves in Faversham on Good Friday. We had travelled there with a party of CAMRA members from Maidstone to take part in the annual ramble, which MMK Branch always undertakes on that day. Our destination was the atmospheric Shipwright’s Arms; an isolated pub overlooking the Creek, on the edge of the Ham Marshes, to the north of Faversham.

I will be writing about the ramble in a separate post, so for now I want to concentrate on Faversham itself. The first thing to report is that, given a little planning, the town is easily accessible by rail, from my home in Tonbridge. There is an hourly direct service from Tonbridge to Strood, and whilst this meant an early start, we were rewarded by some very pleasant views as the train travelled along the line up the Medway Valley.

We were joined by several MMK members at Maidstone Barracks and by another two who joined the train at Snodland. The rail line continues to follow the course of the river, but the landscape along this tidal section of the river is not so pleasant as much of it is a post-industrial wasteland.  It was encouraging though, to see some of the former cement works and paper mills being demolished, and the land being cleared for new housing.

Our train terminated at Strood, where there are connections either onwards to Gravesend, or in an easterly direction towards Canterbury and Dover. The National Rail Enquiries Site shows a 3 minute “non-connection” onto a direct service to Faversham. The “non-connection” description is due to having to descend to the subway, in order to access the appropriate platform, but we managed this with relative ease and were able to board one of the high-speed “Javelin” trains which was heading towards Ramsgate.

The train was surprisingly busy, but we all managed to find seats and settled down to enjoy the view from the window as we first crossed the Medway at Rochester, and then traversed the rest of the Medway Towns via a series of  cuttings and tunnels. Eventually we reached the flat open countryside which slopes gently down towards the Swale and the Thames Estuary. This is fruit growing country, and the orchards we passed by were a mass of blossom-covered trees, ready to bear fruit in the months to come.

We waited at Faversham station for the rest of the party to arrive; the sun by this time having put in a welcome appearance. We then set off, through the town, in the direction of Faversham Creek, passing on the way the two breweries described above. We were walking at quite a pace, which was a pity, as I would have liked to have taken some photos en route,  but before long we had crossed the Creek and were passing out of the town, towards the rather bleak and windswept looking marshes, as we followed the line of the Saxon Shore Way coastal path.

It is here that we must adjourn the  description of the walk to Hollow Shore and the Shipwright’s Arms, and return to Faversham itself. We arrived back in the town, in dribs and drabs, at around 3.15pm,  following our walk back from our lunchtime refreshment stop.

We had entered the town from the opposite direction to which we had departed, earlier in the day, and it was whilst walking through the quiet streets leading towards the centre, that I realised what a pleasant and historic town Faversham is.  We were aiming for Furlongs Ale House,  Faversham’s first micro-pub, which opened in December 2014, and despite us arriving not long after opening time, it was standing room only.

Furlong’s was formerly a wet fish shop, and unusually for a micro-pub, has its own cellar.  The beers are therefore drawn up by hand pump to the small bar area at the rear of the pub. I tried two of the beers on sale; Southern Cross 3.6% ABV from G2 Brewery and the 4.4% ABV Smoked Oatmeal Stout from Boutilliers. Both were good, but for someone who loves genuine Rauchbier from Bamberg, the latter could have done with a lot more “smoke”!

We then moved on to one of Faversham’s latest openings; the Corner Tap, which is just a short walk from the station.  Owned by the Whitstable Brewery, the Tap obviously concentrates on the brewery’s own beers; both cask and keg, but does have a fair selection of other beers from both home and abroad. Matthew was particularly pleased to see  Hacker-Pschorr Helles, from Munich on tap; I was glad of the chance to try the draught 5.4% Gamma Ray from Beavertown, as I had only previously tried the canned version.

The friendly barman told me the bar had only opened at the beginning of last December, but the place had proved popular with townsfolk, right from the start. Our little group sat in the comfortable raised room at the rear of the bar. Much of the talk centred on our forthcoming trip to Düsseldorf, which is scheduled for next month. There was also talk about a trip planned for 2018 to Bamberg.

We left the Corner Tap in time to catch the 17.26 Javelin train back to Strood. This time we only had to cross the platform for the Medway Valley line train, so the 3 minute, National Rail Enquiries “non-connection”, was even more absurd. We had an uneventful journey back, and shortly before 7pm, Matthew and I were alighting at Tonbridge.

It had been an excellent day out, during which we not only experienced the many contrasts which Kent has to offer in terms of scenery, but we also experienced a charming market town, with a wide variety of independent shops, and above all we did this in the company of friends whose friendships go back many years.
 

Footnote: prolific blogger and Good Beer Guide enthusiast, retiredmartin, wrote his own piece on Faversham, following his visit to the town at the beginning of last month. Like me, Martin visited Furlong’s, and also called into the local Spoons. He also managed to take some decent photos of the town centre; something I was unable to do for want of keeping up with my fast-paced walking companions!

Open at last - the Castle at Chiddingstone

Castle Inn - reopened after nearly a year

Several days ago I reported on the good news that the Greyhound in Charcott, which closed its doors back in January, has new owners, and will be reopening at the end of next month. I am now pleased to announce that the Castle Inn, in the nearby, picture post-card village of Chiddingstone, reopened just under a week ago.

Unlike the Greyhound, which has only been closed for around three months, the Castle had been shut for almost a year, after the previous tenant handed back the keys, claiming the high rent he was being charged, made the pub unviable.

Chiddingstone - street view

As the months dragged on, and with no signs of anything happening, rumours started circulating that perhaps the National Trust, who own the pub, as well as much of the village, were considering turning the place into a tea room. A former tenant was also asked for his views by one of the local papers, and he said the same thing about the unrealistic rent the Trust had been asking for.

The other rumours which came to light, during the months of closure, revolved around the state of the six-hundred year old inn. It was said that significant repairs were necessary in order to bring the building up to 21^st Century standards, and that some of these repairs involved structural work.

Public Bar

Fast forward to last November, when the National Trust announced that after a lengthy selection and negotiation process, they had secured a new tenant for the Castle in the person of Nick Naismith.  I reported at the time that Mr Naismith had a good track record with regard to turning round ailing pubs, as a few years ago he rescued the Wheatsheaf  in nearby Bough Beech. I also mentioned that he is a director of Westerham Brewery; news which might not be particularly welcomed to local brewers Larkin’s Brewery, who are based just half a mile down the road from the Castle.

Larkin’s were known to have supplied around 80 per cent of the pub’s cask beer, prior to its closure, but as I hinted at in my article it ended up with a  the good old British compromise, with both Larkin’s and Westerham beers adorning the bar.

Looking through into the other bar

I discovered this when I popped in for a swift pint and a look around on Tuesday lunchtime. The Castle had opened five days previously, but I thought it prudent to postpone my visit for a few days to allow things to settle down and any opening “first night nerves” to dissipate.

After pausing outside to take some photos, I entered the Public Bar. I was pleased to note that apart from a pastel colour wash to the woodwork, little had changed. The red and black chequered, quarry-tiled floor was still there, as was the wood-burning stove in the fireplace. The original bank of three hand-pumps was also still in place on the bar, and as mentioned above there was a Larkin’s beer (Traditional), plus a Westerham ale (Spirit of Kent), on sale. In addition, the ubiquitous, must-stock beer, Harvey’s Sussex Best was on the third pump. For those who enjoy a nice cool mug of traditional Czech lager, there is a Pilsner Urquell fount on the bar.

There were a couple of middle-aged bikers sitting by the window, plus a friendly chap sitting at the bar. I ordered myself a pint of Traditional, and was pleasantly surprised to find it priced at a perfectly reasonable £3.60. It was in good form as well; NBSS 3.5. 

The staff behind the bar were friendly and welcoming, and although the barmaid admitted she was still a novice, she still managed to pull me a decent pint. “Chatty man”, sitting at the bar, was a little too ready to try and engage me in politics, but I managed to fend of most of his questions and allowed him to do the talking. I wheedled it out of him that he wasn’t a local, so it will be safe to return for quiet pint another time!

I took some photos of the interior as well, including a couple of the dining room, just across the corridor from the bar. I had never seen this room open before, although I have a suspicion it was once used as an office.

I only stayed for the one pint, as not only was I driving, I also had to get back to work. I was pleased with what I saw of the revamped Castle, and even more pleased that it has at last reopened, after such a lengthy period of closure. I will definitely be returning, and I can strongly recommend a visit if you are ever in the area.

Staying put

Today was almost certainly the hottest day of the year, so far. I spent the whole day outdoors, sorting the garden out and generally just tidying around. Although I cleared up most of the fallen leaves, back in the autumn, there were still odd pockets here and there, where the wind had blown them into corners, and against things.

The garden is looking much tidier now, and with the long Easter weekend due in five days time, there will be time for planting stuff out, and re-potting those plants which managed to survive the winter. I’m not a passionate gardener, by any stretch of the imagination; in fact I aim to do just enough to keep the place looking reasonable.

Laying the new patio - 2009

We’ve got quite a large plot though, here at Bailey Towers, and over the years I’ve completely re-landscaped it, moving a path, having some trees taken down but then planting some new ones. I even laid a new patio a third of the way down the garden, and erected a summerhouse.

Yesterday we got rid of an old dining table and set of chairs which was cluttering up the summerhouse; courtesy of the YMCA who came round, as arranged, to collect this surplus furniture. And earlier today, we enjoyed the year’s first outdoor meal of roast leg of lamb with all the trimmings, washed down with a glass of Fuller’s 1845. The beer was excellent, and just the right accompaniment for a Sunday lunch.

Why am I telling you this?  Well it’s chiefly to make the point that sometimes there are other things in life which need doing, apart from going to the pub. My recent post about changing times and changing habits, was partially in response to one by the Pub Curmudgeon in which he was lamenting the decline in pub-going.

We exchanged comments on both our blogs and things got a little heated when Curmudgeon accused me of having a “Pollyanna” attitude towards pubs closing; whereas my argument was that the habit of going to the pub has been in decline for several decades for the very same reason that people have other things to do with their leisure time - including getting the garden straight!

I did actually turn down the chance of a pub-walk today; again for the same reason outlined above. This was the opportunity of walking from Tonbridge to the Dovecote Inn at Capel; a walk my friends and I have done many times, and with the bluebells just starting to show in local woodlands, this ramble is a particular favourite of mine.

So you see, I wasn’t just turning down the chance of sitting in an “old man-type pub”, discussing whether we should switch back to Imperial units of measurement, to go with the blue passports, once we’ve left the “evil empire”, but instead I forfeited a walk in the lovely Kent countryside, with some good friends, and to a good pub, where there is gravity-served beer to be enjoyed in pleasant rustic surroundings.

Sometimes you just have to do these things and so, once again, I make no apology for not doing my bit to support our pubs; but in my defence (not that I need one), I will be walking to a real cracker on Good Friday.

Greyhound to re-open

Fran & Richard - the Greyhound's new owners

I mentioned in a previous post that there was some good news to share, and as fellow Tonbridgian, Greengrass hinted at, it does indeed relate to the Greyhound at Charcott.

Regular readers will remember this attractive, late-Victorian local closed back in January, and was facing an uncertain future. I am now pleased to report that local couple, Fran and Richard Gilliat-Smith have acquired the pub and are currently hard at work getting the place ready to start trading again.

Fran, of course is no stranger to local drinkers, as until recently she worked behind the bar of the Windmill, at Sevenoaks Weald. I understand that Richard is a carpenter and builder, so his skills are being put to the test, right now, sorting out the necessary improvements to the Greyhound.

Beer lovers keen to renew their acquaintance with the Greyhound, will have to wait a little longer, as quite a few improvements are necessary, following years of only basic maintenance by former owners,  Enterprise Inns. The couple’s intention is to have the pub ready for re-opening on the late May Bank Holiday; but this could slip depending on how the improvement work progresses.

I’m not sure what the Fran and Richard’s plans are for the Greyhound, but the pub will operate as a free-house and will definitely be stocking Larkin’s beer. I imagine food will play an important role, and it is reported that work is being carried out on the dining room area. I also understand they will be able to carry on leasing the garden area at the side, which is welcome news, especially with summer not far off now.

 One thing which is certainly worth reporting is, the ACV (Asset of Community Value), obtained for the pub by Charcott residents, with the support of the local West Kent CAMRA Branch, was not only instrumental in seeing off a buyer who wished to convert it to residential use, but it also helped the new owners in their price negotiations with Enterprise. Who says that ACV’s don’t work?

Like many people who live or work in the vicinity of Charcott, I am  really looking forward to the Greyhound re-opening, and wish its new owners every success with their new undertaking.

23 Trees - Citra Saison

It’s not often I get sent beers to review, so it was a pleasant surprise when a beer from the Black Isle Brewing Company arrived through the post. It was a limited edition Saison-style beer, and one with a message, but it’s only recently that I got round to drinking it.

The beer is called 23 Trees, and is a “Citra Saison”, weighing in at 6.6%. It was brewed in dedication to 23 ancient trees that were felled on land bordering Black Isle’s organic farm, where much of the barley they use for brewing is grown. The leaflet, which accompanied the beer, is reproduced below, and detail’s Black Isle’s anger at what they describe as “the irresponsible destruction” of these trees.

Now I don’t know the full story behind the tree-felling episode, but Black Isle describe themselves as the UK’s Premier Organic Brewery, so I can understand why they got a little upset over this. Their website says, “As organic brewers we pay 3 times as much for our hops and twice as much for our barley, but we believe that some things are just worth paying for!”

In response to the destruction of the trees, Black Isle have stated they will plant 200 others in their place. Good for them, as this will obviously be good for the local environment, and should  also get the point across to their chain-saw happy neighbours.

Black Isle was started in 1998 by David Gladwin, who set out to make world class beer using barley and hops grown on organic farms as nature intended, without the use of destructive chemicals. Today the brewery can produce up to 10,000 litres a day packaged in bottles, casks and kegs, with the beer shipped all over Scotland, the rest of the UK and to countries all over the world. So what of the beer itself? 

23 Trees Citra Saison 6.6%, is a pale-straw coloured beer with a distinctive citrus aroma. There are also tropical fruit notes present in both the nose and the taste. The beer pours clear and bright, with a nice fluffy head supported by plenty of carbonation. It is rich in taste, which is hardly surprising given its relative high strength.

There is certainly ample malt body to support both the flavour derived from the citrus hops and the distinctive zesty “saison” taste of this “true to style” beer. I thoroughly enjoyed this well-crafted beer, although with an ABV of 6.6%, it's definitely not a "session beer".

Now I must admit to not having known much about Black Isle prior to receiving this beer, but having looked at the brewery’s website, I am impressed by the range of diverse and interesting-looking beers in the company’s portfolio. If nothing else, them sending me this bottle has opened my eyes to what they have available, so this is a win for them, as well as for me.

Check the brewery out for yourselves, by clicking the link, here.

Changing times; changing habits

I was prompted to write this piece after posting a lengthy comment on the Pub Curmudgeon’s site. Mudge, as he is often referred to, was lamenting the decline of the pub; that much-loved, and occasionally maligned gift from these islands to the rest of the world.

Despite having a bit of a pop at beer writers for subconsciously helping to demoralise pub-going, (you need to read Mudge’s post to see what I am getting at),  the common theme running through the article was people just don’t go the pub in either the ways or the numbers they once did.

Lunchtimes and early evenings are two periods which were once popular times for people to unwind with a few drinks, but with changing times, and changing habits, pubs are likely to be much quieter now during these particular sessions.

I never was a fan of having a few pints straight after work, on the way home; preferring instead to get indoors, change out my work-clothes and then get tucked into my dinner, before any thoughts of a drink enter my head. The other reason for not stopping for a “swift one” on the way home is, there is no such thing as “a quick pint”, as  a single pint often has the habit of turning into several, but the main reason is that I have only once had the luxury of working within walking distance of my home. All other jobs I have held, including my present position, have necessitated me driving there.

Man of Kent, Tonbridge - scene of many a lunchtime pint, back in the day

Lunchtime drinking though was an entirely different matter, or at least it was three and a half decades ago, when I was a happy-go-lucky young chap, fresh with the vigour of youth and ready to take on the world. Back then it was quite normal for me to enjoy a lunchtime pint, or two, and a drink on Friday lunchtime was a popular pastime at the company I worked for. As long as you returned, more or less on time and were still steady on your feet, no-one batted an eyelid, and after two pints I still felt perfectly capable of carrying out my duties.

Although I was married with a mortgage, my other commitments weren’t particularly onerous. My then wife earned twice what I did, and I wasn’t exactly underpaid either. We were both regular pub-goers, and most evenings we could be found out for a drink in one of several Maidstone pubs; the town we lived in at the time.

Harvey's Brewery Shop - Lewes

Changing circumstances, a change in partner and the arrival of a child all conspired to curtail my pub-going activities. Starting a family is a massive drain on most couple’s finances; especially when it entail the loss of an income, but to add to the strain, not long after our son was born, the company I worked for relocated to Lewes, in East Sussex. This meant a sixty mile round trip to work, and whilst the company paid my travelling expenses for the first six months, I was soon left with having to dip into my own pocket to cover this.

Working in Lewes did have a number of attractions, the not least of which was the Harvey’s Brewery Shop. Situated in Cliffe High Street, just in front of the brewery itself, the shop offered several draught beers for customers to take away in their own containers. I found a four pint container to be sufficient and, providing it was kept in a cool place, the contents lasted over a two day period.

I became a regular visitor to the Harvey’s Shop, where I was always addressed quite politely, and properly, as "Mr Bailey"! I even received preferential treatment. I was also treated to sneak previews and tastings of new brews, or special commemorative ales. In short I was treated with that "old-fashioned" politeness and civility which is so sadly missing from much of the retail trade today.

I digress, and there’s obviously been a lot of other changes both in my life and circumstances, as well as with society in general, since those days back in the early 1990’s. Fast forward to 2017 and state retirement age is now just four years away. With our son now in his mid-twenties, and just a couple of years left on the mortgage, my domestic responsibilities are certainly far less onerous, than they once were, but work-wise it’s a different matter.

At the start of my career I was a humble laboratory technician, with a hands-on approach, and apart from doing my job to the best of my ability, little else in way of responsibility or commitment to the company. Now I head up a busy department of four people, and am responsible for ensuring the quality of my company’s products throughout all stages of the supply and manufacturing chains, and then going forward into the marketplace.

I am fortunate in so far that my company does not operate a “no drinking” policy at lunchtimes but, as I’m sure I’ve referred to previously on this blog, anything more than a pint at lunchtime, definitely impacts on my work output in the afternoon. I feel sleepy, "post lunchtime walk", at the best of times, so a couple of pints of beer would, more than likely, see me slumped over my desk. This is obviously not the way companies would wish their employees to behave, and without sounding too sanctimonious over this, I certainly don’t want to carry on in this manner either.

The thing is that whilst my pub-going habits may have changed, and the amount I drink is quite a bit less than it was back in the early 1980’s, pubs too have changed and so has society and society’s attitudes. The “wet-led” pubs which were once so common, have now largely vanished. Pubs have had to up their game in order to survive, and offer more in the way of food, or an unusual selection of beers.

Attracting the food trade is of paramount importance, particularly for rural pubs, where the lack of viable public transport links often means people have to drive to these pubs. Whereas people may have once turned a blind eye to “drinking and driving”, today it is socially unacceptable. Country pubs therefore need to offer something more than the opportunity of downing a few pints, in order to stay in business. Some have faced criticism by placing too much emphasis on the food trade, and where a pub starts to resemble a restaurant, and casual drinkers are made to feel unwelcome, this criticism is justified. But there is a happy medium, as many successful country pubs are able to demonstrate.

Town pubs do have more of an opportunity to go after the beer lover, and here again there are many successful examples of pubs which specialise in offering a wide range of different varieties of beer. Unfortunately there are still far too many urban pubs content to blindly follow the PubCo model of Sky Sports, karaoke, quiz evenings and the occasional themed night.

I appreciate such places serve a purpose, but the preponderance of pubs locally, following this tired old formula is one of the main reasons I rarely go for a drink in Tonbridge these days; despite the improvement in my financial circumstances.

There are other reasons, of course, for the decline in pub-going and in the number of pubs. Curmudgeon and others, keep citing the smoking ban, which is now approaching its 10^th anniversary. I have mixed views on the subject, as I feel that rather than an out and out ban, pubs which still had multiple rooms, should have been allowed to set one aside specifically for the use of smokers. This would have worked, especially with the modern and highly efficient smoke extractors which were available at the time.

Although the subject still provokes much debate, it is probably fair to say that with the numbers of smokers continuing to decline, this factor is not as relevant ten years on from the introduction of the ban on smoking indoors in public places. There has also been a general increase in health-related matters, and people are much more careful in taking care of themselves. Exercise, healthy eating and nutrition in general contribute to an increase in well-being, and providing they are driven by voluntary factors, rather than pushed down people’s throats by a “Nanny State”, then they have to be recognised as beneficial for the population at large.

This isn’t me getting all pious and sanctimonious; this is just common sense. I still enjoy a beer most nights and given the right pub, and the right company, can still put away a fair few pints over the course of an evening. I am also over-weight, despite taking regular exercise, so there is room for improvement.

But keeping things in moderation and trying to strike a balance between enjoyment and staying healthy, has to be the way forward; not just for me but for an increasing number of the population. If this approach has been responsible for the decline of the great British Pub, then I make no apologies for my part in it. Instead I see a healthy future for those pubs which have managed to adapt and which offer something a little different from bland international “brands”, produced on an industrial basis and pumped out by the gallon in characterless and soul-less bars but, as with everything, that’s just my opinion!

Playing catch-up

Who's been a busy boy?

Being out of the country for the best part of a week, put me behind on a number of fronts, so it’s been a busy weekend catching up on things home, garden and transport related. I’ve had a major sort-out of my wardrobe, mainly getting rid of clothes which no longer fit. I’ve also erected and painted some new garden furniture and had the brakes sorted out on my car (new pads and discs, front and back), ahead of next week’s impending MOT.

So not much time for beer drinking, or pub-going. I did call in at our local JDW, but that was breakfast. In my haste I forgot to pick up a programme for their Spring Beer Festival, which I’ve just realised finished today!

I managed just one pub visit last week, and that was an evening meal with a guest from our Japanese parent company. The Chaser, at Shipbourne, a picturesque village a few miles to the north of Tonbridge, was expectantly quiet for a  Monday evening, but there were a handful of diners in the conservatory, where we were sitting. The Old Dairy Red Top was in good form, but unfortunately I was driving, so my intake was limited. I also didn’t select the best option from the menu; but that’s down to me, rather than the pub.

There are a couple of very welcome “good news” stories on the local pub front, which are embargoed until later in the week; but they are proof that it is not all doom and gloom in the pub trade.

Finally, the welcome spring sunshine, especially today, should have provided the perfect opportunity to get out and about exploring the beautiful Kent countryside. I am sure that many people did just that, and I imagine local pubs saw a much needed boost in trade. I shall be doing the same, as soon as my workload allows. I will keep you posted.