As German beer sales tank, some unwelcome changes start appearing

I was saddened, and also puzzled, when I learned the other day of developments affecting the world’s oldest monastic brewery. I’m talking here about the historic Weltenburg Abbey, which has been brewing beer for the best part of 1,000 years. The monastery, which lies to the south west of Regensburg, occupies a spectacular setting on the banks of the river Danube, and acts as a place of pilgrimage for both religious devotees and beer lovers. 

However, the news story, which featured recently in the Guardian, and several other publications, seems confused regarding what is really happening with the Kloster Weltenburg beer brands, and to get to the bottom of what is going on, we have to journey back 50 years, to a time when the monastery brewery was experiencing capacity problems that are opposite to what is happening today.

Back then capacity restraints had led to the transfer of a number of the paler Weltenburg beers to the Regensburg based, Bischofshof Brewery. Brewing of the monastic beers was carried out alongside Bishofshof’s own brands but now, in what seems like a cruel twist of fate, production of both Bischofshof and the Regensburg Kloster Weltenburg brands will transfer to the Schneider Weisse Brewery, in nearby Kelheim. Wheat beer lovers will be familiar with Schneider beers which are widely available throughout Bavaria, and beyond, but the brewery isn’t particularly well known for traditional beers brewed from malted barley.

The company obviously have the capacity to handle the additional production, and the move will provide a welcome cash saving for Kloster Weltenburg and the Catholic Church. Kloster Weltenburg remains in the hands of that particular religious body, and production at the monastery will carry on in the same vein as it has done for the past millennia, but has the church played a part in the closure of Bischofshof, by throwing it under the proverbial bus? I write this because I noticed, in the news article, that the Regensburg Diocese is seeking placement for the 56 Bischofshof workers who are being made redundant, as an historic brewery, that was founded in 1649, closes its doors and ceases production at the end of 2026.

These developments are the result of a dramatic decline in beer sales, not just in Germany, but in many other western countries, including the UK. Beer is suffering from an image problem in Germany, as consumers turn their backs on classic beers, bound by the historic “purity law”, or Reinheitsgebot. According to Germany’s main industry body, turnover has shrunk by a quarter in the last 15 years, and in 2025, consumption fell by 5 million hectolitres, the biggest decline in 75 years. 

Despite this decline, the German beer market has, remained, stubbornly different, with just a few dozen national or global players jostling for space against the output of around 1,500 small and medium-sized breweries. A result of this fierce loyalty to regional brands, is that Germany does not have a single brew among the world’s top 10 selling beers. This is rather surprising given its long and proud tradition, of brewing and enjoying beer.

I am particularly sad to see the historic Bischofshof Brewery close, as son Matthew and I called in at the brewery tap on several occasions, during our first visit to Regensburg in 2008. On two later visits to this lovely old, medieval city on the river Danube, this time with Mrs PBT’s accompanying us as well, Bischofshof beers seemed widely available. Our first time in the city involved a couple of trips to the brewery, which is tucked away in a residential area of Regensburg, where there are some rather expensive looking houses. Perhaps property values and redevelopment opportunities are also factors behind the closure of what to me, appeared a quite modern and efficient brewery.

It was on that first visit to Regensburg that we took a trip out to Kloster Weltenburg, where we enjoyed some of the beers brewed at the monastery. Our journey there involved a train ride and then a local bus to the small town of Kelheim, situated on the banks of the river Danube. Upon arriving in the town, we located the waterside departure point and booked ourselves a return ticket. The boats which ply up and down the river, between March and November, are similar to those you see on the Thames, and in order to make the most of the scenery we would soon be passing through, and the glorious June sunshine, we sat outside on the top deck of the boat, in order to enjoy the views.

Our journey took us past the impressive Walhalla Monument, before we approached the entrance to the steep-sided Danube Gorge. The boat made slow, but steady progress against the fast-flowing river, and before long we were surrounded on both sides by high limestone cliffs, towering majestically over the river, as our boat continued its voyage along this spectacular gorge. 

Then, as we rounded a bend we could see Kloster Weltenburg ahead on the left-hand bank. The ship’s captain slowed our vessel down to enable us to approach the landing stage and moorings, which were a few hundred yards away from the monastery, and a five-minute walk. Making a careful note of the departure times, we made our way to the monastery which sits on a spit of land made up of fine white pebbles, which juts out into the river. This was definitely the most pleasant and most relaxing means of arriving at this Baroque style abbey, which remains the home of a monastic community that has been here since the 11^th Century.

As mentioned earlier Weltenburg’s darker beers are still brewed at the monastery, and we were able to sample a few of these (Barock Dunkles plus Anno 1050), in the shaded, courtyard beer garden. We also enjoyed a hearty Bavarian lunch of Leberkaas and potato salad, in the company of several dozen other beer enthusiasts. Afterwards we had a brief look inside the impressive monastery church, which has ceiling frescoes painted by the renowned Asam Brothers, before catching the mid-afternoon boat back to Kelheim. The return journey took half the time of the outward one, as we were now travelling with the swiftly moving current, rather than fighting against it.

Whilst saddened at the impending closure of the historic Bischofshof Brewery, I enjoyed putting this piece together. I particularly found it interesting to look back at the events of 18 years ago, when I visited the beautiful city of Regensburg for the first time, an event that allowed me to enjoy beers from the three local breweries. Most importantly, was the opportunity of looking back on that boat trip, through the spectacular Danube gorge, to the historical gem that is Kloster Weltenburg.