What follows below is an article I originally wrote for my local
CAMRA branch magazine, back in the mid 1990’s, about a trip the branch made to
Crouch Vale Brewery, just across the water from us over in Essex. The article
was far too long, so was never published; although the branch’s social
secretary at the time did produce a considerably shorter article, which was more
to the point and therefore much more suitable for the magazine.
I’ve updated the article slightly, and embellished it in places, having
come across it whilst looking back at some old files on my computer. As it
provides a bit of an insight into some fairly recent brewery history, I thought
it should see the light of day. The article also highlights an excellent pub,
which is well worth a visit, should you find yourself in that part of Essex.
Whilst I have enjoyed
visiting many of the new micro-breweries which have sprung up in recent years, I
find that they do not have quite the same appeal and attraction attached to
them as their more established counterparts. This is not to say that there is
anything wrong with the beer they produce. On the contrary, I have found that
much of it compares well with the products of the established breweries. Some
of it is even better. What I am getting at, is more to do with the architectural
designs of the buildings rather than the products produced in them.
The older, established
breweries are invariably housed in purpose built structures, which are both
attractive in appearance and functional in design This form of industrial architecture reached
its peak with the classic Victorian
tower brewery, where gravity is put to good use, allowing the flow of
ingredients from one stage of the brewing process to another. In addition, such
breweries often tend to be home to all sorts of interesting pieces of plant and
equipment, ranging from teak-clad mash tuns, to functioning steam engines.
With a small number of
exceptions, none of this applies to the new breed of micro-breweries. Although
I can think of micro-breweries that occupy old barns, converted farm buildings,
and redundant railway stations, new breweries, in the main, tend to be housed
in modern, light industrial units, of the type which are commonplace throughout
the length and breadth of the kingdom. Such buildings are functional,
relatively cheap to construct, and easy to maintain. Unfortunately they have
none of the embellishments, or indeed character, of their Victorian
predecessors.
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Crouch Vale Amarillo |
Crouch Vale Brewery, at
South Woodham Ferrers in Essex, was no exception to this rule, and it was
outside just such a unit that a dozen or so fellow CAMRA members and I found ourselves
on a sunny February morning, back in 1994. This was the prelude to a trip round
this small, but well respected micro-brewery. However, if the outside of the
building looked plain and functional, the inside was anything but.
We were met by Colin
Bocking, one of the two original partners who had set up the brewery in 1981.
Realising that we would be thirsty after our mini-bus trip up from Kent, we
were each given a pint of Crouch Vale Millennium Gold, before beginning the
tour. As its name suggests, this particular beer is gold in colour, and is a
well-hopped brew of 4.2% ABV. Whilst we were enjoying our beer, our host gave
us a very interesting talk on the brewing process in general, followed by
details of how it was carried out at Crouch Vale. He also gave us a potted
history of the company, and described how it was just entering into a period of
expansion, thanks largely to the “guest beer” rule. All this was interspersed
with amusing anecdotes, underscored by Colin's very dry sense of humour.
It is always encouraging
to hear of success stories, and that of Crouch Vale certainly fitted the bill.
As stated earlier, the brewery was founded in 1981 by
Colin and his partner,
Rob
Walster and after steady, but unspectacular expansion had reached a stage where
it was ticking over nicely. Then along came the
1989 Beer Orders, which opened
up the guest beer market to the new breed of micros, and the company has never
looked back.
Rob Walster left, to set up his own beer agency and concentrate on
the wholesaling side of the trade. He also bought his own pub - more about that
later. Today, Crouch Vale supplies over 100 free trade outlets, as well as its
own tied house. At the time of our visit this was the award winning
Cap and
Feathers at
Tillingham, but the pub has since been sold and another purchased –
the
Queen’s Head in
Chelmsford.
The talk was followed by a
look around the brewery itself. Every available square foot of the unit seemed
to be pressed into use. Most interesting was the brewing copper, sited on a
mezzanine floor above our heads, and fired from below by direct gas flame.
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Cap & Feathers - Tillingham |
After a further pint of
Millennium Gold, it was time to leave our host to get on with the brewing, and
depart for the next stop on our day out. This was to be lunch at the
aforementioned Cap and Feathers. The pub took a fair bit of finding, despite
having been given directions from Colin, but the perseverance of our driver,
and the map reading skills of the navigator within our party brought about our
eventual success. So after a pleasant half hour's drive through the winding
lanes of this lesser-known part of Essex, we arrived in the picturesque village
of Tillingham, and parked outside the Cap and Feathers.
The Cap and Feathers was
everything a village pub should be, with old oak beams, open fires, traditional
pub games and a quiet, unspoilt atmosphere, enjoyed by a varied and
appreciative clientele. Not only did we enjoy lunch here - courtesy of the
brewery, but we were also able to sample several more beers from the Crouch
Vale portfolio. These included Woodham IPA, Best Bitter and, for the braver
souls amongst us, the head-banging 6.4% ABV Willie Warmer, described by the
Good Beer Guide, at the time, as "a meal in a mug".
It was therefore, with
some reluctance that we left, come closing time, at 3pm. Included amongst our
party, was
Dave Aucutt, director of the
East-West Ales Beer Agency and branch
chairman at the time. Dave knew the area well and was able to guide us to the
third stop on our itinerary, the
Prince of Wales, in the tiny hamlet of
Stow
Maries.
I must admit that before
we arrived at the Prince of Wales, the beer was beginning to catch up with me,
and the prospect of drinking yet more starting to appeal less and less.
However, once we reached the pub all such thoughts vanished, for housed in a
white-painted, weather boarded building, constructed in typical local style, was
one of the best pubs I have been in. The Good Beer Guide described the Prince
of Wales as a rural gem, and it was therefore hard to believe that only a few
years previous the building had been more or less derelict. It had been
beautifully restored by its then owner, who turned out to be none other than Rob
Walster- the former partner in Crouch Vale, whom I mentioned earlier.
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Prince of Wales - Stow Maries |
What I particularly liked
about the Prince of Wales was the way in which it had been divided up into a
number of separate, but inter-connected rooms. There was an open fire burning in
one and, from what I recall, a stove in one of the others. The decoration was
provided by a number of old brewery advertisements, some of them from long
defunct concerns. The floor was part wooden and part quarry tiled, and on a
cold February afternoon, the pub seemed to possess a marvellous, yet tranquil
atmosphere.
There was no piped or
other recorded music to disturb one, or to detract from the gentle hub-bub of
conversation. Moments such as these are to be cherished, especially when one is
in good company, and whilst it is easy to romanticise when one has enjoyed a
considerable number of pints, I have extremely fond memories of that Saturday
afternoon in the
Prince of Wales.
We spent a couple of hours
in this wonderful pub, sampling several of the different ales that were on
offer. All were in good condition, and it was with considerable reluctance that
we took our leave. The journey back to Kent was uneventful; I fell asleep, and
missed my first trip across the then recently opened Queen Elizabeth II Bridge
at the Dartford Crossing. So ended an excellent day
out; just the thing to lift one’s spirits at, what can often be, a depressing
time of the year. I kept promising myself a return visit to the Prince of Wales,
but to date the opportunity hasn’t arisen.
As for Crouch Vale, they
are now the longest-established brewery in the county of Essex. They have won
countless awards, moved to larger premises, built a new brewery and remain
independent and privately, family owned, with Colin Bocking still in charge.
Rob Walster still runs the aforementioned Prince of Wales, at Stow Maries. That’s
not bad going for a couple of beer enthusiasts who followed their dream and
started a brewery using various second-hand items of plant and equipment.
Footnote: No photos from the
original trip, I’m afraid. Back then I didn’t possess a mobile phone, let alone
one with a camera! I’m not sure they were around, anyway. I did have a pretty
decent SLR 35mm film camera, but that was
far too big and cumbersome to take on a brewery trip!