It’s been a fortnight since my son and I returned
from Berlin, and during that time
things have been rather hectic, to say the least, on both the home and the work
front. Consequently I’ve only just found the time to sit down and write about
our experiences of the local beer and pub scene there.
Beer wise the brewing scene in Berlin
is dominated by the large
BKS Group (
Berliner Kindl Schultheiss), who are part
of the
Radeberger Gruppe (formerly
Dr Oetker). BKS brew the following brands:
Berliner;
Berliner Bürgerbräu; Berliner Kindl; Potsdamer and
Schultheiss.
The city also boasts around 17 brew-pubs, although some of
these belong to the same owner, even though they may brew on multiple sites. Like
much of northern Germany,
Pilsner-style beers dominate, although that old East German favourite
Schwarzbier (Black Beer) is also fairly common, on both draught and in bottle.
In addition, beers from other parts of Germany,
such as Baden-Württemburg, Bavaria,
Lower Saxony, North Rhine-Westphalia and Thuringia,
are quite widely available. Visitors used to the normally quite localised
nature of the German beer market, will therefore be surprises, as we were, to
be able to drink Altbier from Düsseldorf, or Kölsch from Cologne,
alongside some of the more local Pilsners.
So what about the places to drink all these beers? As stated
in my previous
post about Berlin the city certainly has some superb pubs and
bars and with the aid of a guidebook called
“Around Berlin in 80 Beers”,
written by Peter Sutcliffe, we found some great places to both drink and eat
in. Here’s my summary of the ones we enjoyed the most, divided up into various
categories.
Historic Pubs
There are two contenders here for Berlin’s
oldest and hence, most historic pub:
zur Letzten Instanz and
zum Nußbaum.
zur Letzten Instanz dates from 1621, and qualifies as the
oldest pub in Berlin, by virtue
of
zum Nußbaum being a reconstruction. Although the latter was actually older,
the original pub was destroyed in 1943, during an air raid, and was originally
situated in the Alt Coln area of the city, across the River Spree, from the
current one.
Both are excellent pubs though in their own right. Tucked
away, opposite a church, in a quiet area of the city,
zur Letzten Instanz was
practically empty when we called in mid-afternoon.
The pub is an attractive white-painted
building with green-painted shutters either side of the doors and windows.
Internally there are three inter-connected, wood-panelled rooms leading away
from the bar; each on a slightly lower level than the preceding one. The last
room has a cast-iron spiral staircase leading up to what appears to be staff
accommodation above. There were lots of “Reserviert” signs on the tables, indicating
the staff were expecting a good crowd in later on. Pubs being packed during the
evening, and finding it difficult to get a table, seemed to be a recurring
feature of Berlin.
Schultheiss Pils was the beer of choice
here.
We visited zum Nußbaum on our last morning in Berlin
(well we had to didn’t we?). It’s a lovely cosy, low-ceilinged little pub, with
lots of dark wooden panelling, and it’s difficult to believe this
reconstruction only dates from 1986. There are three tiny inter-connected
rooms, and like zur Letzten Instanz, there were only a handful of other people in
the pub when we called in for a glass of Berliner Jubiläums Pils and a
Bratwurst. Situated in the restored Nikolaiviertel of former East Berlin, just
a short hop from the hustle and bustle of Alexanderplatz, it’s hard to believe
you are in the same city!
Pubs in Railway Arches
Again two contenders and both are contrasting. One all shiny
and new
Alkopole Bierbar is a bustling stand-up-to-drink boozer’s bar
underneath Alexanderplatz station. The other,
Tiergartenquelle is on the edge
of the sprawling
Tiergarten; Berlin’s
answer to London’s Hyde
Park.
Alkopole Bierbar is all pine and polished pine, and caters
primarily for punters popping in for a quick drink before catching their train
home, whereas Tiergartenquelle has a much older feel about it, and attracts an
obviously more fixed, and less transient clientele. Given its situation on the
edge of parkland, the pub has a much more relaxed feel about it, and inside
there are lots of faded posters, alcoves and a slightly Bohemian clientele. The
beer range here is supplied by Lemke, who operate a large brew-pub at the
Hackescher Markt in the city centre. I sampled the saison, an almost
orange-coloured Kupfer bier, whilst Matthew enjoyed the Brauhaus Lemke Pils.
With Alkopole Bierbar, I particularly liked the “walk up to
the bar, order, and pay as soon as you are served” approach. This was much more
like an English pub, with none of this table service, waiting for the waiter to
appear with the bill, which is characteristic of most German pubs. We had a
Radeburger Pilsner each here, our last beer in Berlin
before catching the train to the airport.
Modern Bars
There was just one contender here, the sprawling,
ultra-modern
Mommseneck am Potsdamer Platz, (Haus der 100 Bierre), at
Potsdamer
Platz. I’ve been in a similar themed establishment in Cologne
before, but that was considerably smaller than this huge sprawling modern,
glass-fronted pub. Most of the 100 or so beers are in bottled form only, but
Mommseneck still offers 10 on draught. I enjoyed an excellent draught
Köstritzer Schwarbier; Matthew was rather more conservative in opting for a
Warsteiner
Pils.
Esoteric/Off-Beat Pubs
The incomparable and hugely popular Dicke Wirtin, a short
bus ride away from our hotel, fits the bill here. There was no room at the inn when we first called
in on the Tuesday and on our last night in Berlin
things seemed to be going the same way. However, there were a couple of vacant
tables outside and as they were beneath a canopy and it was relatively mild
evening, we grabbed one of them. We were glad we did as the food was excellent;
as was the beer. Pilsner for Matthew and Mönschof Kellerbier from Kulmbach for me,
served in an earthenware mug.
Inside, there were a number of inter-connected rooms, with
live jazz music playing in one. The walls were covered with all sorts of
brewery advertisements; mirrors, enamelled plaques, just the sort of thing to
get a breweriana enthusiast hot under the collar. Dicke Wirtin is a real West
Berlin institution which has always been popular with students and
which proudly proclaims it has always welcomed artists, authors, actors and
other like-minded people.
Brew Pubs
There are around 17 of these; all relatively recent in
origin, with several located under railway arches or at railway stations. We
visited four, the largest of which was sprawling and modern
Brauhaus Mitte opposite
Alexanderplatz station, and a train-spotters’ paradise being level with the
tracks (Pilsner here).The smallest, and the best, was the tiny
Marcus Bräu on
the other side of the tracks and close to the city’s
Hackescher Markt. The lemony, citrus-tasting
beer in this tiny brewpub was excellent, and the décor and general layout were
also very good. This was a pub we would have liked to return to, had we the
time.
Also worthy of a mention is Lindenbräu, which occupies part
of the futuristic Sony Centre, at Potsdamer Platz. We sat outside here towards
the end of our first afternoon in Berlin,
enjoying a beer whilst watching the world go by. My unfiltered Naturtrüb Bier
was excellent, whilst Matthew enjoyed his slightly more conventional, filtered
Pils.
Bavarian-Style Beerhalls
We visited two of these; one run by Augustiner of Munich, and the other
by Weihenstephan of Freising. Both are slightly upmarket, with Augustiner the larger of the
two. Both are situated in former East Berlin and both
are fairly recent and welcome additions to the city's drinking scene.
We visited Augustiner am Gendemenmarkt on our first night in
Berlin (Saturday), and such is
its popularity we were lucky to get a seat. We arrived shortly before 6pm, and after taking our seats were surprised
to hear a bell being run, followed by people clapping. This turned out to be
the nightly tapping of the Holzfass (wooden cask), containing Augustiner’s
excellent Edelstoff. We ended up having several glasses to wash down our roast
pork and potato dumpling; pure Munich
in the heart of Berlin! The
Gendemenmarkt from which the pub takes its name, is an attractive area of the
city, and was somewhere we mean to return and explore further during daylight
hours. As is often the case, the best laid plans tend to go astray, and we
never got the chance to re-visit.
Weihenstephaner is to the north of its Bavarian counterpart,
in the Hackescher Markt area of the city. It is smaller and more intimate than
Augustiner’s outlet, although it does have a separate cellar bar. The latter
was hosting what appeared to be a work’s function on the evening when we called
in, but we managed to find a table upstairs without any problem. I tried the
brewery’s Dunkel as well as their Pilsner; both were good but I resisted the
temptation to try their Korbinian; a strong (7.4%) dark Doppelbock beer,
available in bottled form only. The food was also very good, consisting of
Bavarian dishes, such as Schnitzels, Schweinhaxe and other such hearty
delights.
Best Pub for Beer, Food & Ambience
Sophie’n Eck, is a real gem of a pub, in former East
Berlin. Triangular shaped, but with a Tardis-like interior; just
as well given its popularity. Fortunately we arrived fairly early in the
evening, and managed to get a table without too much trouble, but later on the
staff were struggling to find space for people.
Sophie’n Eck underwent an extensive renovation in 1986,
towards the end of the DDR regime, and is now a tasteful, if slightly up-market
interpretation of a traditional Berlin Kneipe. Situated in a rapidly
gentrifying area just behind the Hackeschermarkt, the pub is unusual in offering
Sion Kölsch, from Cologne alongside
Schlösser Alt from nearby Düsseldorf. Neither is served in the small, but correct,
20cl cylindrical glasses normally associated with these beers, but by the half
litre! Good food as well, just a shame about the group of noisy American
students! Still, you can’t have everything.
Finally, special mention should be made of Gasthaus Lentz,
almost opposite Charlottenburg S-Bahn Station, and the closest pub to our
hotel. A real friendly place, where, despite being heaving, the waitress went
out of her way to find us a space and help us with the menu. Kloster Andechs Spezial Helles hit the spot beer wise and went well
with our grilled pork steaks. Top marks for this excellent local’s
pub-cum-restaurant; a real find in an unexpected location.
This completes my round-up of the best of Berlin’s
pubs and bars which, whilst seemingly extensive, probably only scratches the
surface of the city’s rich beer drinking heritage. Still, the chance to explore
this heritage further offers a good excuse to re-visit the German capital.
For an overview of Berlin's must-see sights, and other non-beery attractions, visit my other blog - Paul' Beer Travels.