Actually the reliance on tried
and tested familiar brands of beer, which is so common to many of the nations’
pubs, is probably a combination, in varying degrees, of both factors. However,
like many beer lovers, I am being a little churlish here, as even the most
average pub today stocks a far greater range of both beers and other drinks
than was the case when I first started drinking, in the early 1970’s.
Back then
your average pub would most likely have been tied to a brewery, and would have
stocked almost exclusively beers from the owning brewery, with the notable
exception perhaps of Guinness. The brewery’s own beers would have consisted of
a mild, a bitter and a keg bitter on draught, with probably the full range of
the brewery’s bottled beers (light, pale, brown, stout and sometimes a barley
wine.) on a shelf behind the bar, and not in a fridge. Some pubs had started
to sell Draught Guinness, but by no means all did, so the bottled version was
the order of the day. Draught lager, in the form of a watered-down Heineken,
alongside Harp Lager, brewed by a consortium of brewers, headed by Guinness,
was probably more commonplace than draught stout. That was it in the majority
of pubs, and there were certainly no guest beers and virtually nothing in the
way of imported bottled beers available either.
How times have changed, with most
pubs today stocking between one and three real ales, one or two keg beers, two
or three international draught lager brands, various bottled beers – both
domestic and imported, plus several different ciders – one of which will
probably be on draught. Then of course, there has been the rise of the “beer
exhibition” pub, where often upwards of six and sometimes even ten cask beers
will be available. Fine, so long as they are all kept well, and the pub manages
to shift them before they start to deteriorate.
Actually, I can remember similar
pubs back in the early 70’s making a feature of selling a wide range of beers.
These pubs were invariably free-houses, but the difference between these early “exhibition”
pioneers and today’s establishments is that beers stocked in the former were,
with a few notable exceptions, virtually always keg. Keg was modern, keg was
easy to handle and with the considerable variation in quality of traditional
cask beer during the late 1960’s and early 1970’s, keg was seen as the way
forward. People actually liked it and even asked for it. People that is, who
didn’t know any better, and here I have to confess to being one of them. For a
young lad and his friends, all of whom had only recently started drinking, the
lure of McEwan’s Export and Younger’s Tartan, available locally only at the Five
Bells in Brabourne, a few miles outside Ashford, proved too strong. To us these
were exciting new beers, which we hadn’t seen before, and to our young and
inexperienced palates they were almost irresistible.
To return to the main thrust of
the argument; we have a situation today where drinkers have a degree of choice
that is without parallel, and yet still we cry out for more. CAMRA’s best
selling Good Beer Guide has become more and more a Good “guest” Beer Guide;
hardly surprising when there are now in excess of 1,000 breweries in the UK.
And yet, leaving questions of quality aside for the time being, could there now
be too much choice?
The dramatic increase in the
number of new breweries and the large number of different beers available is
mirrored elsewhere in our consumer society. Take a walk down the aisles of any
large supermarket and it is quickly evident there is a vast array of different
foodstuffs and ingredients available to today’s shoppers, giving and
un-paralleled degree of choice that would have been unthinkable even 20 years
ago. With so many different choices available to consumers there is a degree of
“information overload” which ironically leads to a situation of, “more variety,
less choice”.
As in the supermarket, so in the
pub, and when faced with a bank of hand pumps, all adorned with an array of
unfamiliar pump clips, many drinkers end up confused or even totally
bewildered. Is it any wonder then that many will just opt for something they
know, especially when they are unable to decide which of the myriad of
different beers to go for, or they feel self-conscious whilst standing at the
bar trying to make their minds up as to which beer to have. Despite counting
myself as fairly knowledgeable about beer, I have been in similar situations
when confronted with a totally alien display of different pump clips. (Hint,
landlords and landladies, please can we have more use of legible chalk boards,
or even printed menus, which give us drinkers some proper details about
unfamiliar “guest” ales on sale in your pubs? Things like style of beer,
strength, basic tasting notes, who brews the beer and where are they based!)
In response to my earlier post
about “playing it safe”, fellow blogger the Pub Curmudgeon replied that “I
don't think you can really blame drinkers for preferring to stick to the tried
and trusted. After all, lager, stout and smooth drinkers do, so why shouldn't
cask drinkers too?” He has a point and I know several CAMRA members who eschew
the new wave of “Golden Ales” with their American hopped, citrus-loaded
flavours, and stick doggedly to traditional “Brown Bitters” which they know and
trust. One member, who I know well, won’t touch anything dark, thereby denying
himself the delights of mild, old ale, porter and stout!
To take this “narrow-mindedness”
with regard to beer a stage further, an even more extreme example can be seen
in the group of drinkers who attend the Kent Beer Festival every year, but then
spend their whole time there drinking Shepherd Neame! This is in
spite of the enormous variety of beers available at the Kent Festival. Perverse
in the extreme, or horses for courses? Whatever your view, whilst this
situation appears odd, it is not much different to what goes on at the
grand-daddy of all beer festivals – Munich’s
Oktoberfest. It is perhaps not widely
acknowledged in this country that at the most famous beer festival in the
world, there are only six different beers available, and all of these are
brewed in the same style. (By decree, only Munich’s
“Big-Six” brewers, Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbräu, Lowenbräu, Paulaner and
Spaten are permitted to have tents at Oktoberfest, and all offer a specially
brewed, Märzen-style beer, with an abv of around 6%). Once seated in one of the
tents, and visitors NEED to be seated in order to be served with a beer, there
is not much incentive to move on and try the beers in one of the other tents.
So in a strange kind of way, our Shep’s lovers at the Kent Festival are not so
different from say, Hacker-Pschorr devotees at Oktoberfest.
Choice then, whether it is too
little or too much, can sometimes detract from one of the chief pleasures of
beer. Apart from the obvious attraction that a good beer tastes good and a
great beer tastes even better, beer is a sociable drink; in fact it is often
described as the “best long drink in the world”. This leads me on to the final
part of this particular thread, and one which I will be discussing in greater
detail next time. I am referring to the occasion or setting in which beer is
drunk, as this can often be just as important and rewarding as the appreciation
of the taste and the overall appeal of the beer itself. See you next time.