I feel it’s good when away on holiday to sometimes take a
little excursion somewhere else; a
“side-trip” as the
Americans would say to a
place or location not too far from the vicinity of where one is staying, but
equally just far enough as to make the trip worthwhile, and something of an
adventure.
My son and I have done this on several occasions; as have I,
when I’ve stayed somewhere on my own. My wife, however, was not over keen on
the idea of such an excursion, when I put it to her during our stay in
Regensburg; particularly as she guessed (rightly) there would not only be beer involved,
but a degree of walking as well.
I actually had two trips in mind, but as I had done the
first of these (a boat-ride down the
Danube, from
Kelheim, to
Kloster-Weltenburg) on a previous visit to
Regensburg,
I was keener to undertake the second excursion. This was a visit to another holy place, in the form of the
abbey at
Mallersdorf; the only remaining nunnery in
Europe where the
Sisters brew their own beer.
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Sister Doris |
Two years ago I wrote about
Sister Doris, the
legendary
Brewster at
Klosterbrauerei- Mallersdorf.
For the past 45
years she has risen well before most of the other sisters
on brewing days, in order to start work in the
abbey brew-house by 3:30 am. She’s even allowed to skip the obligatory morning
prayers in order to perform her tasks in the brewery. Most of the beers
Sister Doris brews are for consumption within the convent, and as they are not
sold elsewhere, it is necessary to journey to the abbey in order to sample
them.
A visit to
Kloster-Mallersdorf had been on my wish-list for
some time, but it wasn’t until a week or so before our holiday that I realised
the abbey was within reasonable travelling distance of where we would be
staying. After looking into it further, I discovered it was roughly an hour’s
train journey from
Regensburg, and then a short walk (18 minutes according to
Google Maps), from
Mallersdorf station.
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The impressive Kloster-Mallersdorf |
The only trouble was the convent is perched on a hill
over-looking the village of
Mallersdorf-Pfaffenberg,
and this was the deal breaker as far as my wife was concerned. She did say
though, that she had no problem with me going; either on my own, or taking our
son along as well. Rather than walking half-way up a mountain, she was
perfectly happy to spend the day in
Regensburg,
just chilling out
So come the next day, I said farewell to my wife and son and
wandered down to Regensburg’s main
station. Trains were timed at roughly 30 minute intervals, so there was no need
to rush. The temperature had been a little on the cool side when I left, but by
the time I boarded the train, the mercury had begun to climb and it was
necessary to remove the thin fleece I had been wearing.
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Mallersdorf station - by request only |
I travelled on the 11:14
train south from Regensburg, and my
journey involved changing trains at a town called
Neufahrn in Niederbayern.
From there it was just a 10 minute ride, up the valley, on a branch line train.
It was very pleasant travelling through the
Bavarian countryside, which was
looking particularly good in the late September sunshine, and the fields of
ripened sunflowers, waiting to be harvested, formed a memorable sight against the
backdrop of the steadily rising hills.
I asked the conductor, when he came to check my ticket,
about the branch-line service, as my pre-printed schedule from Deutsche Bahn stated
that Mallersdorf was a “request stop”. He told me to advise the driver when
boarding the train, but as things happened he was also leaving the train at
Neufahrn and very kindly walked over to the other platform with me, and told
the driver himself.
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Abbey church at Kloster-Mallersdorf |
There were one or two passengers boarding at Mallersdorf, so
the train stopped anyway, but it was a nice gesture from the conductor, and an
example of excellent customer service on behalf of the
German Railways. The
diesel-powered train left on time, and began its leisurely journey along the
single-track line. Ten minutes later, I alighted at
Mallersdorf and set off to
reach abbey.
There was a street of quite upmarket looking houses close to
the station, but at the end of
Bahhofstraße I passed into open countryside. I
could see the impressive bulk of
Kloster-Mallersdorf, high on top of a hill
overlooking the village, as I continued my journey. The road leading up to the
abbey was quite steep, so I was pleased, in a way that my wife had chosen not
to accompany me, as I would not have heard the last of how
"I dragged her up a
mountain”, for some time!
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Klosterbräustüberl |
Fortunately, my regular lunchtime walks meant the hill was
not too much of a challenge, and as I kept to the shady side of the road, I
felt fine by the time I reached the top. Unlike many monastery breweries I have
been to, there is no bar or restaurant at the abbey itself for visitors to stop
for a drink or bite to eat. Members of the public may buy bottles to take away;
as I discovered later, but fortunately the privately-owned and family run
Klosterbräustüberl, adjacent to the abbey gates, does provide a friendly
welcome to both locals and visitors alike; although it is worth remembering
that it is closed all day Monday.
I made my way round to the small garden area, overlooking
the abbey, at the side of the pub, as that seemed where most of the customers
had gravitated to. On a glorious late September day, who could blame them, so I
decided to follow suite, and after finding an empty table, waited for the
waitress to come and take my order.
The abbey brewery produces two beers; a
Vollbier Helles and a
Zoigl. Both are 5.0% ABV.
I ordered a half litre of the former, but as it appeared quite hazy, I wondered
whether I had been served the unfiltered
Zoigl by mistake.
When the time came for a second beer, I asked the waitress
if there had been a mix-up with my order. She assured me that there hadn’t, and
brought me a glass of
Zoigl which, if anything, was even hazier.
Now I have to
be honest by saying that neither of these beers were stunning, or even classics;
but they were good solid, workaday beers of the sort anyone living close to the
abbey would be more than happy to drink For my part, I was just pleased to be
there, sunning myself in the garden whilst enjoying this small idyllic corner
of
Bavaria.
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The small beer garden - Klosterbräustüberl |
It seemed the locals were happy to be there too, for as well
as a couple of tables for diners, there was that most
German of pub traditions,
a
Stammtisch, or
“regulars table”. Now over the years I have become reasonably fluent in German,
and like most people learning a foreign language find I can understand more of
what is being said than I can actually speak, but I struggled to understand a
word of what the mainly male group sat around the Stammtisch, were saying. They
were obviously conversing in the local Bavarian dialect; something people from
other parts of Germany find almost
unintelligible – so what chance had I?
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View from the beer garden |
The
menu at Klosterbräustüberl Mallersdorf looked filling and keenly priced (the
beer was good value too at one Euro less than what we had been paying in
Regensburg), but I was conscious that for the past few days I had been eating
quite filling meals, along with the rest of my family. I had made a decision
beforehand, not to eat at the pub, as I knew we would be having a heavy meal
in
the evening, so the cheese and tomato
roll, I’d bought in
Regensburg would do just right; although I waited until I
got back to the station before eating it.
Before leaving, I asked the waitress if the pub sold bottled
beer to take away. She told me they didn’t, but pointed me in the direction of
the abbey, just across the way, where she informed me I could buy carry-outs.
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A glimpse of the brewery through the window |
I settled my bill, and following her instructions walked
through the archway entrance and into the main courtyard of the abbey. There
was an incline leading down to the right, and there at the bottom of the slope
I could see a parked car with its boot opened, with a nun supervising the
loading of a crate of beer into the back of the vehicle. I made my way down
towards this scene of activity, but not before a quick peep through the windows
of what was obviously the brew-house, on the other side of the courtyard.
In my best
German I asked the
Holy Sister, who was serving
the customers, if it was possible to buy single bottles of beer, rather than a
whole crate. She told me it was and, asked how many would I like. I settled for
two, but not before enquiring if they had more than
Klosterbrauerei- Mallersdorf beer, one type of beer on sale.
Unfortunately they hadn’t, but I came away with two handsome-looking, swing top
bottles of complete with a smiling photo of
Sister Doris herself, on the label; and all for the princely sum of € 2.50.
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Where the locals come for their take-outs |
Pleased with my purchases I made my way back down towards
the station and caught a train shortly before 3pm.
I had a bit of a wait at Neufahrn for my connection, so to kill some time I
walked towards the town centre, primarily to buy a bottle of water. It was
still very warm out, and despite the beer I’d drunk, I was feeling thirsty.
On the way back, I paused to reflect for a few minutes at a
memorial garden dedicated to the dead of two World Wars. Reading just a few of
the many names of servicemen killed between 1939 & 1945, brought home to me
the terrible price paid by the German people for that horrific conflict; the seeds of which were sown in 1933, with the appointment
of Adolf Hitler as Reichs Chancellor, and which ended in 1945, following the deaths
of almost 50 million people, and the utter destruction of the German nation.
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Memorial garden for the war dead of Neufahrn |
My train back to
Regensburg
was packed with students, returning to
university in the city after the long
summer break. I managed to get a seat in one of the old-style compartment
coaches, and was rocked gently off to sleep by the swaying of the train and the
warm air blowing in through the window.
Fortunately I awoke in plenty of time to depart the train,
and then made my way back through the city, to our hotel. I plonked the bottles
of Klosterbrauerei- Mallersdorf beer down in front of my wife, as I’m not sure
she had quite believed me at first about the brewing nuns! It turned out her
and Matt had spent an interesting day as well, exploring Regensburg.
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Proof of my visit |
Later that evening, we celebrated by going for a typical
Bavarian meal at
Weltenburg am Dom; a traditional restaurant in the shadow of the cathedral, with a small beer
garden attached, run on behalf of the
Holy Fathers at
Kloster Weltenburg. After
brewing nuns, it seemed only right we should try a beer or two produced by some
brewing monks!
Footnote: the article attached to this link, includes an
interview with Sister Doris, where she describes how she first became a brewer
at Kloster- Mallersdorf, and how each of the nearly 500 nuns at the abbey
contribute in their own special way to both life in the convent, and the
outside world.