A day at the seaside

On what turned out to be hottest day of the year to date in the UK, I joined nine other beer enthusiasts, most of them local CAMRA members, on a trip to Folkestone. A day out at the seaside if you like, but also the opportunity to explore some of the pubs and bars in this once popular coastal resort. We travelled by direct train from Tonbridge, a journey of approximately one hour. The carriages were packed, the fine weather having tempted many people out of their homes and workplaces to enjoy, like us, a day at the seaside.

It was a long time since I last visited Folkestone even though it was a regular halt during childhood. I'm sure I've written before that both of my parents were fans of this genteel seaside town, and although that mantle has slipped somewhat over the past half century, Folkestone still boasts a number of attractions to draw people in.  Probably the biggest loss to the town’s prestige was the cessation of cross channel ferry services between Folkestone and the French fishing port of Boulogne, in 2001.

One factor, said to have played a role in the decision to terminate the service, was the withdrawal of Duty Free, whilst the other allegedly was the Swedish company Stena, paying over the odds when they bought Sealink British Ferries, from British Rail. The real reason was the small size of Folkestone harbour, compared with that at Dover, plus the opening in 1993, of the Channel Tunnel. So, whilst Folkestone no longer plays the role in cross-channel traffic that it once did, there are encouraging signs that the town is quietly reinventing itself.

It must be 40 years or so since I last made a proper visit to Folkestone, and that occasion almost certainly involved a day trip to Boulogne.  This charming French town is well worth a visit especially the old part of the town perched up on a hill.  But now the cross-channel traffic has disappeared, I imagine that, like Folkestone, Boulogne has had to undergo a similar renaissance. It’s not quite so easy to visit without a car, although I imagine there must be buses linking the town with its larger neighbour, Calais.

Still, we're talking about Folkestone here is the town, and my last fun memories of the town are of Saturday evening visits to the Leas Cliff Hall a large concert hall, built into the cliff-face and looking out to sea. Opened in1927, this spacious venue has a standing capacity of 1,500 people, and it was here that as a 17–18-year-old sixth form pupil that I saw bands like Uriah Heep, Caravan, Groundhogs, the Strawbs, Fleetwood Mac (before the Buckingham-Nicks partnership joined up), and quite a few other groups seen.

Attending a gig at the Leas Cliff Hall, with your mates, was always a good night out, and there was also the added bonus of a bar, just to the right of the stage. For someone who hadn’t turned 18 at the time, it was relatively easy to get served, so many an evening was spent in a slight, alcoholic haze! It was an easy journey to make by train, from Ashford to Folkestone Central, followed by a 15–20-minute walk across town to the Leas Cliff Hall itself.

Those memories came flooding back last Friday, as even after four that route through Cheriton Gardens towards the hall, seemed familiar. My companions and I were making for the first pub of the day which, as it turned out, proved to be the best – in my view at least. However, as we visited nine pubs/bars in total, that day I shall deal with all of them, in a separate article.

For now, I want to tell you a little more about Folkestone itself, and draw a comparison between today’s reality, and the seaside town I remember from a childhood spent growing up in East Kent. The town’s heyday began during late Victorian times and extended into the Edwardian era that followed. During this period, Folkestone was considered one of the most fashionable resort of the time, with the western part of the town being home to numerous townhouses, villas, large hotels and other impressive buildings, high up on the cliffs and overlooking the English Channel. These opulent dwellings were built to accommodate the wealthy and the well-to-do, who flocked to the town.

Unfortunately, this success was not destined to continue, and following two world wars, the increased demand for package overseas holiday, and changing fashions generally, Folkestone began a slow decline. Walking through this once fashionable part of town, it is still possible to imagine what Folkestone was like during its glory days, and it is easy to see why people were attracted here in the first place.

My companions and I passed through this area on our way to the second pub of the day, and before beginning our descent towards the parish church, were rewarded with views out over a flat and dead calm sea. Despite a haze, hovering just above the water, it was possible to make out the French coast, just over 20 miles away. The area around the church is known as the Bayle, with the attractive, Grade II listed building dedicated to St Mary & St Eanswythe. Parts of the church date from the 13^th Century, but it was largely rebuilt in the 19^th Century.

Connecting the Bayle with the Harbour area is the Old High Street, a steep and narrow cobbled street, which is now at the heart of "Folkestone's Creative Quarter". Together with nearby Rendezvous Street, this part of the town is now thriving, with independent businesses and restaurants surrounded by restored buildings, many painted in bright, vibrant colours. I can still remember taking this route down to the harbour, with my parents, stopping off to watch seaside rock being made in the window of a local sweet shop.

Unfortunately, other places I remember from childhood have vanished, including Bobby’s, Folkestone’s stylish department store on Sandgate Road, which opened 1931, before becoming a branch of Debenhams, 40 years later. My mother particularly liked this store, so although the building is still standing, the shop itself is sadly no more.

One welcome, and presumably quite recent development, is that the pedestrianisation of much of the town centre. The harbour area has also undergone extensive renovation, with the Harbour Arm (the large, curved, stone built breakwater that juts out into the sea, restored and developed as a recreational space and promenade with bars, restaurants, and entertainment at weekends and sometimes other evenings, as well. 

There wasn’t sufficient time to explore the latter area, much as I would have like to, but from the limited amount I saw, and the more detailed information I have read, this area alone makes a return visit to Folkestone not only desirable, but essential as well.