Friday, 5 July 2024

Cruising around the Iberian peninsula, with a brief hop across to Italy & Sardinia

Our cruise itinerary took us from Southampton and across the Bay of Biscay, to the north west corner of the Iberian peninsula.  This is the area known as Galicia, an autonomous region of Spain with a rich history dating back to the 8th century. Our first and last ports of call were in this region, namely Vigo and La Coruna, and both were quite similar in nature and appearance. Of the two locations, we preferred La Coruna.

After leaving Vigo, our ship headed south following the coasts of Spain, Portugal and then Spain again, before turning east through the Straits of Gibraltar and into the Mediterranean. This occupied a full day at sea, and a further day and night cruising then followed to bring us to our second port of call, the city of Barcelona – the second city in Spain after Madrid, in terms of population and size.

We had the longest stay of the cruise in the Catalan capital, plus the only period of heavy rain, before heading due east, towards Italy. En route, we traversed the Strait of Bonifacio, a narrow stretch of water that separates the large Mediterranean islands of Corsica and Sardinia. We returned to Sardinia for our fourth port of call, but not before stopping off at the bustling town of Civitavecchia, which is the official port for Rome.

Our stop-over in Civitavecchia provided opportunities for excursions to Rome and its environs, so I took full advantage of a trip that allowed me to visit, and explore, the Italian capital for the first time. It also gave us a glimpse of the Italian countryside, which was looking quite green and verdant (same thing?) There will, of course, be a separate post dedicated to this iconic city which, surprisingly, seemed more compact than I initially thought. It was extremely hot though, with temperatures approaching the mi-thirties!

After departing Civitavecchia, Queen Anne retraced her course back across the Tyrrhenian Sea, passing through the Strait of Bonifacio for the second time, although this time in the opposite direction, and under cover of darkness. The following morning, we anchored just outside the harbour of Alghero, the second largest city on Sardinia, and a very attractive one at that.

  I've already posted an article about Alghero, a destination which us cruise passengers had to access by tender, due to the absence of a quayside large enough to accommodate large ships such as Queen Anne. I spent an enjoyable few hours exploring the narrow-cobbled streets of this attractive, medieval town, which is enclosed by ancient, and imposing, defensive stone-built walls.

After departing Sardinia, Queen Anne took a west, south westerly course towards the island of Mallorca, largest of the Balearics, and its attractive and vibrant capital, Palma. This was my first visit to this popular tourist destination, and we arrived on what proved to be the hottest day of the entire cruise. Taking the shuttle bus from the port area to the esplanade overlooking Palma Bay, and then walking towards Palma’s impressive cathedral, the heat proved too much for Mrs PBT’s, who decided to take the next shuttle bus back to the ship.

I stayed on, and headed for the old town, keeping in the shade as much as possible, where I enjoyed the authentic Spanish experience of narrow, shady streets, and the opportunity for an equally authentic Spanish lunch, and one of the finest tortillas I have experienced on various visits to Spain.

Our penultimate destination was the city of Malaga, on Spain’s southern coast. It would perhaps have been nice to explore Malaga itself, but I had pre-booked an excursion to Cordoba, an historic city approximately 110 miles inland, in the heart of Andalusia. Cordoba was well worth a visit though, and a full report will follow in due course.

There was one more destination, before our return to Southampton, and that was the small, port city of La Coruna. The latter is situated in Galicia, close to the northernmost tip of Spain, and just along the coast from Cape Finisterre. Today, the name is familiar to those who listen to the shipping forecast, but in Roman times it was believed to be the end of the known world! 

We were lucky to arrive on schedule at La Coruna, given a voyage that saw us passing back through the Gibraltar Straits. Mrs PBT’s and I enjoyed a meal in our cabin, that evening, and being on the port side of the ship, we had a good view of Tangier and the North African coast. There was quite a swell overnight as we passed into the Atlantic and followed a northerly course up towards the aforementioned Cape Finisterre. 

The following morning after breakfast, I was about to go out on deck when I noticed the access doors had been roped off. Shortly afterwards there was an announcement from the ship's captain that due to a medical emergency on board, a helicopter evacuation would take place – hence the closure of the decks! Shortly afterwards, a further announcement was made that owing to strong winds, evacuation by helicopter would not be possible, so Queen Anne instead would be steering a course toward the Portuguese coast, where a locally based lifeboat would transfer the patient ashore.

The captain slowed the ship right down, to ensure a smooth transfer, but did warn after its successful completion, that the detour might impact on our arrival time in La Coruna. As things turned out, it didn’t, indicating that the captain must have increased speed in order to make up time. The city itself was a pleasant surprise, especially as I had never heard of the place before, and Mrs PBT’s and I enjoyed a stroll along the seafront, followed by coffee and beer at a local café. The sun came out to greet us as well.

Leaving the sheltered inlet of La Coruna, and sailing out into the Bay of Biscay, saw the wind get up, taking the edge off the temperature. Two nights, with a day sandwiched in between, saw us arriving back in Southampton. I awoke early, in time to witness, and photograph a tranquil rural scene as we sailed up Southampton Water and into the River Test. Fortunately, we berthed at the Mayflower Cruise Terminal, rather than the less spacious Queen Elizabeth II Terminal, and that was the cruise over for us and our fellow passengers.

The cruise means that with the exception of the stretch of the northern coast of Spain between La Coruna and the Basque city of San Sebastian, I have now travelled right round the Iberian peninsula. Some of that journeying has been by train, but it doesn’t detract from the fact that, Spain is now one of my most visited, and extensively travelled. Germany still holds top spot, although with just the Baltic and North Sea coasts accessible by sea, that situation is likely to change within the next few years. As for cruising, the question remains, where to next?

3 comments:

Dave said...

During the cruise times, assuming daylight, how much of the coastline do you see from the ship?

Paul Bailey said...

Hi Dave, if I'm honest, apart from arrival and departure from the various destinations, you don't see that much of the coast from the ship. Many arrivals and departures, rely on the services of local pilots, who join and leave the ship, as it either arrives, or leaves port.

Coastal waters tend to be shallow, and there are often hidden reefs, sandbanks or other underwater obstructions, so it is safer, and often more direct for ships to be out in deeper water, away from such hazards.

Norway, with its deep-water fjords, seems to be the exception - along with New Zealand or Alaska. In these locations "cruise-by" excursions are popular, especially as they allow passengers to enjoy the associated spectacular scenery, at relatively close quarters.

Anonymous said...

Is Mrs PBT trying to tell you something in that statue photo ?