Wrapping up the Black Country - or a part of it, at least!

We’ve reached the final part of the other Friday’s amazing tour around some of the Black Country’s finest pubs, and we pick up the story from outside Sedgley’s Beacon Hotel, where Stafford Paul and I said farewell to Retired Martin. A short walk back to the A459 then ensued, followed by a bus in the opposite direction to that which we’d travelled on earlier. Our destination was the Britannia Inn at Upper Gornal, the second Batham’s pub of the day and one which, like the first, didn’t disappoint either.

We arrived shortly before 4pm, although somewhat foolishly I failed to take a photo of the pub’s exterior. Having already diced with death once, whilst crossing the busy main road outside the Britannia, I didn’t fancy my chances a second time, so readers will have to make do with some shots of the rear of the building, along with plenty of the amazing interior. The main bar at the front of the pub was buzzing and packed with a good mixed crowd of drinkers winding down at the end of the working week. This particular part of the pub was formerly a butcher's shop, but was incorporated into the main building, by Batham’s when they took over the place in 1997.

With the two Batham’s stalwarts of Best Bitter and Mild on the bar, I opted for the former, whilst Paul stuck with the latter. The Best Bitter was every bit as good as it was at the Vine.Paul was keen for me to see the taproom at the rear of the pub, which forms an important part of the Britannia’s nationally important and historic, interior. Upon inquiring discovered he the room was closed, to the time being. The reason for the closure was the taproom was being used to interview potential bar staff and would re-open to the public at 4.30pm.

In the meantime, I took a wander out to the garden, at the rear of the pub, and noticed the adjoining stone-built block, with its colourful sign on the wall, proclaiming the words “Britannia Brewery – Batham’s.” This ties in with the pub having brewed its own beer until 1959, during its tenure under the Perry family who owned the place for many years. It was known then as "Sallie's", after the landlady from 1942 to 1991.

As promised, the rear taproom re-opened to customers, the interviews having concluded for the day. Paul and I made our way eagerly inside and were not disappointed with what we saw. Paul, of course, had been in the taproom before, and was pleased to point out its historic features, the most noteworthy of which was the bank of four, wall-mounted hand pulls, complete with a pewter drip-tray, set against the corridor wall. This arrangement of a servery without a counter, is now very rare, although a century or so ago, such a set up would have been much more common, particularly in smaller and more basic establishments.

I’m pleased we were able to experience this unusual taproom, but there was still one more pub for us to enjoy, before my visit drew to an end. We finished our drinks and stepped outside to wait for the No. 1 bus that would take us back to Wolverhampton. I don’t remember that much about the journey back to Wolves, although I suspect the amount of beer I’d consumed had something to do with that, but upon leaving the bus, Paul and I made towards the railway station. There, on the other side of the tracks, and close to the former low-level railway station lies the Great Western, a former CAMRA National Pub of the Year.

The pub is one of 20 pubs owned by Holden’s, the largest of the family owned, Black Country brewers – I’m not including Bank’s (Wolverhampton & Dudley), as they’re no longer family-owned, and following their reverse takeover of Marston’s and subsequent tie-up with Danish brewing behemoth, Carlsberg, are no longer a serious player in the world of cask ale and traditional pubs.

Holden’s is still run by the fourth generation of the Holden family, who remain just as proudly committed to their history and heritage, as they were when the brewery was founded back in 1915. Holden's acquired the Great Western in 1988, and the pub went on to win National Pub of the Year, three years later. Today the pub interior consists of four areas, front bar, long lounge, snug and conservatory at the back, and is Grade II-listed.

Paul and I sat in the front bar, where we were lucky to grab a seat, following the departure of a group of drinkers. The place was packed – it was early Friday evening, and as I looked around, I had the feeling that I’d been there before. Paul thought the same too but looking back as the various photos I’ve taken over the years, and the times I’ve changed trains at Wolverhampton station I can’t find any record of my having been there. That includes the visit to Shifnal, which was my first Proper Day Out, with members from the Beer & Pubs forum, back in November 2019.

This aside, the Great Western was on top form, the Friday before last, as was the Holden’s Black Country Mild, which slipped down a treat. Both pub and beer proved a fitting end to what was, in effect another Proper Day Out, and a splendid one at that! My thanks go to Stafford Paul for the groundwork that went into preparing the tour, and especially the hours he put in sorting out local bus routes and bus times. Most of all, though, I’d like to give him special thanks for his local knowledge, company and good humour, and trust that it won’t be too long, before we enjoy another tour, that is equally enjoyable and rewarding as this one was.