A welcome return to the Rock

After bemoaning the lack of any pub visits in my last post, I finally managed to squeeze in a couple during the past three days. Before describing them, I’m pleased to report that both visits restored my faith in public houses and demonstrated their resilience in being able to bounce back, after an unprecedented 14-month period, where trade was either severely restricted at best, or not allowed at all.

The latter state was actually the norm for much of the pandemic, so it is doubly encouraging to find pubs once again trading strongly. So, starting with the first pub, which is an absolute cracker, and one that has long been a favourite of mine; even if it is one that I only visit infrequently.

The Rock at Chiddingstone Hoath is an old drover’s inn, which has retained many original features. It is close to 500 years old and is so named because it is close to one of several rocky outcrops, which are a feature of this remote corner of Kent. Chiddingstone Hoath is a small, isolated settlement, consisting of a few houses, plus the pub, huddled together on a high sandstone plateau, to the south of the River Eden, in an area known as the High Weald.

The Rock is centuries old, and this is reflected in both the exterior and interior of the building. It has been lovingly cared for over the years, and the recent alterations have only enhanced this. I have known the pub for 30 years plus, and despite its remote location have tried to visit it whenever possible.

Three decades ago, it belonged to Whitbread, but when that company ceased brewing, and started selling off its pubs, the Rock became a free house. For a number of years afterwards, it was leased to local brewery Larkin's, who brew just down the road, on the edge of Chiddingstone village, but it has since reverted to being a free house once again, and a popular and flourishing one at that.

I mentioned that I have tried to visit the Rock as often as possible, especially as it is only a short drive from Chiddingstone Causeway; the village where I work, but looking back at my records, my last visit was in February 2018.  The pandemic meant that no visits were possible until quite recently, and I was prompted to rectify the situation when I received news of a prolonged road closure.

Starting this coming Tuesday, the busy B2027 Tonbridge-Edenbridge Road, that runs past my workplace, will be closed for a period of at least 10 weeks, to allow the replacement of a major water main. Fortunately, the block on traffic movement is just to the west of the factory, so my journey to work will be unaffected, but colleagues travelling from the opposite direction will have a lengthy diversion to contend with, that will add at least 20 minutes to their drive in to work.

The closure also rules out any chance of a lunchtime visit, so with this in mind it made sense to pay the Rock a visit, whilst it was still possible. Consequently, last Thursday evening, I left the office just after 5pm, jumped in the car, and drove up to the Rock. My route took me down and across the River Eden - little more than a large stream really, and then up past Larkin's Brewery. The road then begins to climb more steeply, through woodland and then up towards the High Weald.

Unfortunately, like most of the past couple of weeks, the rain began just as I was walking up to the car, and by the time I arrived at the Rock, it was falling steadily at an intensity that precluded taking all but the most basic of photos of the exterior. The same applied to the interior too, as with just myself, the barmaid, plus a single customer and his dog, I felt rather self-conscious about snapping away with my phone. For this reason, the majority of the photos, used to illustrate this post, were taken on previous visits.

The door was open when I arrived, and the aforementioned dog rushed out to greet me. I recognised its owner, who was sitting at the bar, as a local character that I have seen quite a few times, in the Greyhound at Charcott. After a quick “Good evening,” the barmaid asked me what drink I would like. I noticed that alongside local favourite Larkin’s Traditional, beer from Dark Star and Long Man breweries, were also available.

I naturally opted for the Larkin’s, and not only was it in excellent condition, it was also keenly priced at just £3.40 a pint. According to the chap sat at the bar, who was drinking Guinness btw, that is at least a pound cheaper than most other local outlets. He consequently warned me off several of them, although I won’t repeat them here. The barmaid too was friendly and chatty, expressing her excitement, and sharing some of her concerns, about going back to university, at the end of next month, for the start of her second year.

For me it was just good being able to stand at the bar, chatting, without being instructed to check in and sit down, and without the need for screens, masks, and hand sanitiser. In short, it was just like old times and almost as though the pandemic had never happened. 

The character at the bar, brought us back to earth by reminding us that it might not quite be over yet, but I think that, whilst this is something most of us are aware of, we all want to savour moments such as these, when Covid seems an inconvenient and unpleasant memory.

To end, here are a few general observations about the character of the Rock, and its customers. The pub’s bare brick floor, its large wood-burning stove and the unusual “Ringing the Bull” game, are part and parcel of what gives this pub its unique character. Being a rural pub, the Rock obviously attracts country folk, but they are proper work-a-day country people, rather than the "green Wellington brigade." The floor of worn bricks means that muddy boots, and equally muddy dogs are welcome.

This mix of proper country folk, along with perhaps some of the more moneyed folk, who live locally and enjoy letting their hair down, contributes much to the appeal of this “proper country pub,” and long may this continue.

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