Not quite wrecked in Reykjavik

A fortnight ago, I wrote a short piece about Iceland, following the brief stop-over I made in the country on my way to the Beer Bloggers & Writers Conference in Virginia, USA. 

Although my stay in Iceland was a short one, the country made a lasting impression on me, and I am determined to return for a longer break, which will take in much more of the island, apart from the capital Reykjavik.

At only three hours flying from southern England, Iceland is far closer than many people think and although there is much to see, including some of the most spectacular scenery in the world, in this article I want to concentrate on the capital Reykjavik, and its drinking scene in particular.

Before going any further it is worth noting that virtually all drinking establishments, in Reykjavik, and I include restaurants and cafés here, offer a "Happy Hour." This is often for an extended period of between 2-3 hours, but typically this will only apply during the late afternoon/early evening (4-7pm or 5-8pm is quite typical).

I strongly recommend you take advantage of "Happy Hour", as there will be a significant reduction in the price of your drinks (up to half-price). Some clubs and bars will also offer reductions after midnight, but unless you are a serious night-owl, I wouldn't go for these as you just know that any reductions will be starting from prices that are already on the high side.

Typical prices during "Happy Hour" will be  around the 700 - 900 ISK mark, (about £5.50- £7.00) for a half-litre glass. The price varies according to the strength of the beer - pretty much like it used to, and still should be in the UK.

The other thing to note is that central Reykjavik is quite compact and easy to get around on foot. It is also a clean and very safe city, although in parts there are examples of that scourge of modern city life - Graffiti. Fortunately the mindless scribbles are at quite a low level, but this need to deface buildings in the name of "art," which seems to possess certain people, is beyond me.

So where to go, baring in mind I was governed by the strictures of  Happy Hour? I'd already downloaded a list of possibilities, but in my rush to get my desk clear and everything up to date before I finished at work, I forgot to print it off! I therefore ended up wasting half an hour or so looking up suitable sites and then writing them down.

My rather basic apartment was less than 10 minutes walk from the centre of Reykjavik, so with my research fresh in my mind, I set off to enjoy a few of Iceland's finest beers.

Just before I reached Reykjavik's main shopping area, I passed the iconic Kaffibarinn. With its frontage of red, corrugated iron and a large London Underground symbol set over the entrance, this is one of the bars which helped secure Reykjavík's reputation as a party city back in the 1990's.

Unfortunately for me, Kaffibarinn's reputation meant that even on a Wednesday evening the bar was packed out. A brief look through the window confirmed it was standing room only, so reluctantly I gave the place a miss and headed for the next place on my list.

This was a bar called Bravo, and it is one of the most popular bars in Reykjavík, due  to its location on the Laugavegur shopping street. According to my guide, Bravo also boasts the longest Happy Hour in the city, but to my chagrin, this honour no longer applied.

On the plus side there was room inside and whilst all the tables were spoken for, there were a couple of free seats at the bar. I made a beeline towards these and plonked myself down on one of the available bar stools. There were taps for five different draught beers; four from Viking and once from Einstök.

I went straight in at the deep end and opted for a Viking Stout. This was an excellent, full-bodied stout brewed in a typically Irish dry style. At 5.8% it packed quite a punch and was by far the best of the three beers I sampled in Reykjavik that evening.

It was a mistake going for this one first, as the Viking Lager, which was the next beer I tried, paled into insignificance in comparison to the stout. This is despite Viking Lager being Iceland's best known and highest selling beer.

I enjoyed sitting at the bar, observing the comings and goings. There were quite a few Americans amongst the mainly young crowd, but with Happy Hour fast drawing to an end, I decided something to eat might be a good idea. A basket of nachos with a bowl of hot and spicy dipping cheese to accompany them.

The bar itself is cosy and atmospheric, helped by gentle lighting and soft-furnishings. I was tempted to stay for a further pint, despite Happy Hour being over, but the sun was still shining outside and I wanted to see a bit more of Reykjavik whilst it was still light.

I took a walk down towards the harbour, in order to get a view of the mountains on the other side of the sound. There was a chilly wind blowing off the sea, but the view of the mountains, lit against the backdrop of the setting sun, was worth feeling a little cold.

By the time I climbed the hill back into the city centre I was feeling more than a little peckish. I tried a couple of cafés first, but they were full to bursting point with all tables and chairs occupied. Instead I found space at the Lebowski Bar, an American-themed establishment designed around a cult film, that I've never heard of, called the Big Lebowski.

The bar seemed to be thinning out, so I had a whole table to myself. I ordered a cheeseburger (without fries), which was really tasty, but cooked a little too rare for my liking. Apparently that is how Icelanders like their meat.  Fortunately it didn't have any after-effects. I ordered a pint of Gull Lager, brewed by the Egill Skallagrímsson Brewery, to go with my burger, and sat there enjoying the food and drink and just being there in the moment.

I left Lebowski's at around 10.30pm, to make my way back to my apartment. The sun was just sinking below the skyline and when I turned in 30 minutes or so later, there was still a twilight glow in the sky. The educated amongst you will know that due to Iceland's northerly position, close to the Arctic Circle, the sun sets quite late in the evening during the summer months. The opposite applies during winter, of course, but it was good to have experienced this effect for myself.

After breakfast, I spent the morning doing tourist stuff. Amongst the highlights, was a look in side the world famous Hallgrimskirkja Church, which is the city's main landmark. Its tower can be seen from almost everywhere in the city, and at 74.5 metres high, it is the largest church in Iceland and one of the tallest structures in the country. I also had a good look around the shopping area of central Reykjavik, which occupies the flat land close to the harbour.

I had to vacate the apartment at midday, so I returned to collect my suitcase and to drop off the keys. I then walked along to the bus station and took the bus back to Keflavik Airport. I had a couple of hours before my flight to Washington was due to leave, so I had some lunch and did a bit of shopping as well. Amongst other things were three bottles of beer from Borg Brugghus

Brewery, which include a Porter and an IPA,

I haven't opened them yet, but I will do before too long. I will then be able to report on a few more Icelandic beers.