I’m sure many readers will remember the piece I wrote a week or so ago, about JD Wetherspoons’s and their charismatic founder and chief executive, Tim Martin. The piece centered on the pro-Brexit beer mats which Mr Martin was distributing throughout his tied estate, which were in the form of a brief manifesto, telling the government to get on with the job, and take the country out of the European Union.
Now I don’t want to re-open the argument which, somewhat predictably, ensued from the post, even though I strongly disagree with Tim’s pro-Brexit views. Instead I want to write about how I once met the Wetherspoon’s CEO, and the part I played in helping the chain’s Tonbridge outlet to obtain its license, in the face of strong opposition.
Let’s go back a couple of decades, to when Wetherspoon’s weren’t nearly as common as they are now in Britain’s towns, and the Spoon’s name, and indeed brand, was not the household name it is today.
My involvement with CAMRA meant I was at least familiar with JDW, even though at the time, the company had no outlets in the part of Kent where I live. I think at the time, the nearest Spoons to West Kent, was either Maidstone, or one of their London pubs, so the news that Wetherspoons’s were planning to open an outlet in Sevenoaks, was welcome indeed.
As I turned out though, the news was not welcome in certain quarters, especially by Sevenoaks LVA (remember the Licensed Victuallers Association? Those cosy associations of local licensees, all looking out for each other). More seriously, the prospect of the chain opening in the town was not welcome by the local constabulary. Both the Sevenoaks LVA and Kent Police launched an objection to the proposed opening, which ended with the matter being referred to the County Court in Maidstone.
A CAMRA friend of mine called Brian, who lived in Sevenoaks, attended the hearing and spoke on behalf of Wetherspoons, as did several other people. It’s a long time ago now, and I can’t remember if the case went to appeal, but the eventual outcome was the objections were thrown out, and Wetherspoon’s duly went ahead and opened an outlet in the town in a converted furniture shop. It was called the Sennockian, and is still trading today, although a few years ago it was on the list of pubs which JDW had been planning to sell off.
My friend, was probably 25 years or so older than me, and was a retired Chartered Surveyor. He was quite a character and spoke with a real air of authority. Sadly Brian is no longer with us, but I remember him saying that prior to the court case, he had met with both Tim Martin and Wetherspoon’s barrister, and how pleased they were that an ordinary member of the public had come along to speak on the company’s behalf. Therefore when a similar situation arose, a few years later, Brian again offered his support to JDW.
The case in question was even closer to home for me, as it involved an application from Wetherspoon’s, to convert the former Crown Post Office building in Tonbridge, into a pub, and once again the local LVA and police were objecting. I offered my support, as did a close friend of mine, who also lived in Tonbridge. Brian also said he would join us and, as he knew the ropes, so to speak, we allowed him to take care of the arrangements.
So, on the appointed day, we presented ourselves at the imposing Crown Court buildings on Maidstone’s riverfront, and were introduced to Tim Martin and the company’s barrister. We were also joined by a member of the Tonbridge Civic Society; an organisation keen not only to preserve the 1930’s Post Office building, but eager to see it being used for a purpose which would benefit the town as a whole. We also learned from JDW’s lawyer, that the LVA had dropped their objection, so it was now just the police who were contesting Wetherspoons’s application.
We were then ushered into the court. This was my first, and so far only time inside a court of law, and it was evident from the start that such places are designed to intimidate and overawe those who find themselves “up before the law”. Even for those like me and my two companions, they appear quite foreboding.
We didn’t have to wait long before the clerk of the court asked for us to “all be upstanding”, as the judge and the respective legal teams filed into the court. Now I mentioned earlier that the case took place some time ago, probably a couple of decades in fact, so I can’t remember the exact order of proceedings, but I do recall that almost from the outset they didn’t go too well for the barrister representing the police.
She was a Dawn French “look-alike”, but without the humour, and one particular remark she made really annoyed the judge, so much so that she was asked to withdraw it. The sole objection put forward by the police, was one of law and order, but the judge was quite dismissive of this argument. The Spoon’s barrister was also quick to point out the company’s good record in controlling their outlets and spotting any trouble before it got out of hand.
The Wetherspoon’s brief fared much better with the judge. He reminded me of Rumpole of the Bailey, and he certainly didn’t receive the same amount of scrutiny as the police barrister. He called the representative from the local civic society as a witness in support of the application, along with my two friends, but after I’d got myself all psyched up, and ready to take the stand, he didn’t call me. So denied my moment in court, I sat down and followed the rest of the proceedings with interest.
Once both sides had presented their evidence, the court adjourned for lunch. Now lunch is a very serious matter for the legal profession, and it is probably no exaggeration to say that in the past, the fate of many a condemned person, depended on whether the judge had a good, or a bad lunch. These days, whilst we thankfully no longer hang people, the severity or indeed leniency of a sentence, might still depend on the quality of His Honour's lunch.
My companions and I also grabbed a spot of lunch, choosing the nearest Wetherspoon's pub of course! This was the Muggleton Inn, across the River Medway and then up the High Street. It is one of two JDW outlets in Maidstone, and to my mind it is the best. The Muggleton is an imposing two-storey building which was once the offices for an insurance company. We made our way upstairs, grabbed a table and ordered ourselves a bite to eat.
We also had a beer each, but mindful that we might be considered "in contempt of court", were we to come back intoxicated, just had the one. We also wanted to ensure we were back in time for the resumption of the case. We all thought the case had gone well so far, so were quietly optimistic that the Tonbridge Spoons would be awarded its licence.
Back in court, the afternoon session passed quickly, with "His Honour" throwing out the objections lodged by the police. Costs were also awarded against Kent Constabulary, but as a gesture of goodwill, the Spoon's brief said he would waiver the costs awarded to him, so as to not place too high a burden on the public purse; in this case the council tax payers of Kent.
After the case, Tim Martin came and thanked us all personally, and told us that plans for the Tonbridge pub could now continue apace. I'm pretty certain the three of us received an invitation to the official opening of the pub, which was named the Humphrey Bean, in honour of the landlord of a pub which once occupied the former Post Office site.
I didn't attend the official opening, probably because it clashed with something going on at work but when, a few days later, I finally set foot in the Humphrey Bean, I was decidedly underwhelmed.
I'm not sure what I was expecting, but whilst it's fair to say the pub is not one of JDW's most imaginative conversions, the architects had a rather mish-mash of a building to work with, and consequently made the best of what was there. There is a smaller and quite cosy section at the front, and this is where the post office counters once were, but leading off to the rear, is a much larger section, which was formerly the town's sorting office. This area still maintains its shed-like appearance, and is where the bar is situated.
To be fair, it is bright and airy, with plenty of tables, and includes a raised area on the left-hand side. This section leads through to a large, attractive and well laid out garden, which looks out across the River Medway to Tonbridge's imposing 13th Century castle. This is without a doubt the Humphrey Bean's best feature.
So there we have it, the story of how I went along to play my part in ensuring that Tonbridge gained a Wetherspoon's and whilst, in the end, my input was not needed, I am still glad that I turned up at court to offer my support.
The Humphrey Bean is now something of a Tonbridge institution, and it is hard to imagine what the town was like before Wetherspoon's came on the scene. So despite me being at odds with Tim Martin over his Brexit ideology, I am pleased that he brought the Spoon's brand to Tonbridge, and I am also pleased that I was able to give him my support.
Beer-related travel, at home and abroad, exploring and indulging my passion for beer.
Friday, 10 November 2017
Tuesday, 7 November 2017
Farewell to Dereham?
My son and I were in the mid-Norfolk town of Dereham last weekend in order to visit my
father, who’s residing in a care-home nearby. Dad has been living there for the
past two years; ever since the Alzheimer’s he is suffering from left him unable
to continue living on his own.
I hadn’t been to see him since the summer, but fortunately
the younger of my two sisters, lives in Dereham so is able to visit on a much
more regular basis. However, that is about to change, as she and her new
husband are moving to the East Midlands, in order to downsize and take
advantage of the cheaper property prices in the area.
Prior to visiting dad, Matt and I met up with her for lunch,
so fancying something cheap and cheerful we opted for the Romany Rye; the local
Spoons. We seem to end up there on most visits, and I get the feeling I have
been in the Romany Rye nearly as often as our own, local Spoon’s outlet back in Tonbridge.
After my recent post about JWD’s charismatic owner, you
might be forgiven for thinking I’d never set foot in one again, but you’d be
wrong, as I can forgive someone their politics, even when I think they are
wrong. So, as on previous occasions, the Romany Rye suited our purpose.
My ham and cheese panini was just right for a lunchtime
bite; especially after having driven most of the way from Kent
through heavy rain, but unfortunately the same could not be said of the beer,
which was one of the “guest ales”. The pint of Little Kahuna 3.9%, from the
Little Beer Corporation, that I had with my lunch, was very poor; not vinegary,
or off-tasting, but flat, totally devoid of confection and chilled to the bone.
I should perhaps have known from the way the pump spurted, on being pulled that the
cask was getting low; either that or I was the first person to have ordered it
that day.
Unfortunately this guest ale wasn’t the only poor beer of
the trip, as I will reveal later. Concerns about the beer aside, we had a nice
lunch and it was good to catch up with my sister, particularly as I had not
seen her since the summer. I already knew about her planned move, but it seems
that things have progressed much quicker than expected. She and her husband aim
to complete the move before Christmas, even though this will mean living in
temporary accommodation whilst they look for somewhere more permanent.
We dropped her back at her house and then checked into our
hotel, before going off to see dad. We’d booked a twin room at the George; an
attractive 18th Century inn, right in the centre of town. We had
both enjoyed a drink in the George before, but had never managed to stay there, so when I
found the hotel had a room vacant, at a reasonable price, I had no hesitation
in booking it.
We spent about an hour with dad. Unfortunately he was
suffering from a heavy cold and decidedly under the weather. He didn’t move
from his armchair, and kept nodding off. He wasn’t talking a lot of sense, and
I’m not sure he even recognised us. The effects of Alzheimer’s are certainly
devastating and although he is being well looked after, it is obviously painful
to see him like this.
Back at the hotel, we debated as to where to eat for the
evening. Neither of us fancied Spoons again, and the George itself looked a
little pricey. WhatPub came the rescue, in the form of the nearby Kings Head Hotel. I had been in there, just after Christmas, almost a decade ago, with my
American brother-in-law, and it had seemed quite pleasant. The food offering
looked both good and excellent value for money, so we decided to give it a go.
The Kings Head describes itself as a “traditional pub and hotel”,
and is situated at a cross-roads, about five minutes walk from the centre of
Dereham. It is a fine looking old building, with an attractive brick frontage.
I wouldn’t like to guess its age, but if pushed would say early 19th
Century.
It is obviously a locals pub; something I remember from that
first visit. Most were sat at the bar, which is a real nuisance for people
trying to get served, or see what beers are on offer. It was a choice of GK IPA
or Cornish Coast;
a beer which I later found out was a faux “craft-brand” from Greene King.
I ordered a pint, and the beer looked clear,
well-conditioned and nicely presented in the glass. Regrettably, looks can
sometimes be deceptive, and on raising the glass to my lips I found it was
slightly on the turn. It wasn’t undrinkable, although under different
circumstances I might have taken it back. I don’t need to say any more, but the
fact that we had just ordered a meal each meant me sticking with it.
The food, I am happy to say, was every bit as good as the
pub website promised. I had the beef and mince pie (not a proper pie, but
not a casserole with a pastry lid either). Matt had a rather nice-looking Beef Madras
Curry.
In view of the beer situation, plus the fact the staff were
setting up for a disco, we decided to move on, but not before picking up a
leaflet detailing room prices. The Kings Head really is a proper hotel, and the
room rates look very reasonable. I therefore marked it as a possibility for a
future stay.
We went back to the George for the final pints of the evening,
and for the first time the beer was fine, and I enjoyed both the
Adnam’s Ghost Ship and the Broadside (both 3.0 NBSS, but served in those awful
stylised Adnam’s glasses). The hotel bar was busy, and we were lucky to find a
seat (no sitting on an elevated stool whilst blocking the bar for us!) The
George has a real antiquated feel about it, which is genuine rather than
contrived, and for me pride of place goes to a large, original Bass mirror.
You get the feeling that little has changed over the past
200 years, and this was evident when we went down for breakfast the following
morning. The breakfast room looks out on the town, and it was nice to sit there
watching the world go by, whilst enjoying our morning meal. Even nicer was the option of Lowestoft Kipper on the menu, which I naturally jumped at. Mrs PBT’s
has never been keen on serving up this divine breakfast dish; ostensibly
because of the lingering smell, so it was a rare treat to enjoy a freshly
grilled, whole kipper, along with plenty of buttered toast.
After checking out, we drove the short distance over to the
care-home. Dad was fast asleep in the armchair again, and we had trouble waking
him. Apart from a few mumbled comments about his cold, we got precious little
out of him, so after a chat about his welfare with one of the home’s
supervisors, we said goodbye.
Fifteen months ago I bid farewell to Swanton Morely – the
village where mum and dad retired to, a quarter of a century ago. Now with my
sister about to up sticks, there is little in Dereham for me to return to. I
will of course continue to visit dad, but with the opportunity of meeting up
with my sister as well, soon to be gone, I will be a free agent on future
visits; able to stay anywhere within a reasonable radius of dad’s care-home.
This opens up a whole new range of possibilities, ranging
from Breckland in the south, the North Norfolk Coast in
the other direction, and Norwich
and the Broads to the east. There remains plenty of
places to explore in Norfolk,
plenty of good pubs to visit and plenty of unspoilt countryside to enjoy.
Friday, 3 November 2017
Five Points Brewing at Fuggles Tonbridge
Stepping back from the controversy of my last post, and onto
safer territory, I spent an enjoyable three and a half hours on Thursday evening at Tonbridge Fuggles.
The occasion was what used to be called a “tap-takeover”,
but which now seems to be referred to simply as a “takeover”, by Five Points Brewing Co. Based in Hackney, Five Points have been brewing “beer that is
unfiltered, unpasteurised and full of flavour”, since March 2013.
As well as showcasing five Five Points cask ales, plus four
of their keg beers, the brewery chose Tonbridge Fuggles as the place to launch
their new Green-Hop beer. This was quite a coup for Fuggles owner, Alex Greig,
and for us beer lovers the evening provided the perfect opportunity to enjoy
the excellent Five Points beers.
I met up at the bar with a couple of CAMRA friends, who
suggested I go straight in on the Green Hop beer, as it was selling like hot
cakes. I was glad I did, as it turned out to be one of the best
Green Hop beers I have tasted this season.
The beer was only 3.7% ABV, but was packed full of flavour,
with the resinous bitterness from the Bullion hops, perfectly matched against a
background of sweet juicy malt. The hops
are grown locally by Hukins Hops; a fourth generation farm that has been
specialising in hops for over 120 years, and the hops used in the Five Points
beer were taken straight from the bine to the brew-house.
I had the pleasure of meeting Ross Hukins a couple of weeks
ago, when we were both judges at the Spa Valley Railway Green Hop BeerCompetition, so it was good to sample the firms wares in the finished beer.
After the Green Hop, I moved onto the 4.0% Five Points XPA
(Extra Pale Ale). This was another excellent beer, pale in colour and with lots
of citrus and tropical fruit flavours from the Citra and Galaxy hops used.
Fuggles itself was pleasantly busy, but still with enough
seats for those who wanted to sit down. My two friends and I held an impromptu,
post-event discussion on the SVR Beer Festival, which we were all heavily
involved with. The consensus was it had been a success, with both
attendance and beer sales well up on last year. There are still areas which
need looking at and issues which need addressing, but all in all, we can pat ourselves on the back for pulling off another successful and highly enjoyable festival.
For my third pint of the evening, I went for a further pint
of Green Hop, but the cask had already sold out. Instead, I opted for a
complete contrast in the form of Brick
Field Brown 5.4% ABV, the brewery’s take on a traditional English Brown Ale.
Described as “well balanced, full bodied and packed with earthy aromas and
flavours of Demerara and hazelnuts” The beer is brewed with British barley and
Golden Naked Oats, and bittered with Willamette hops
from the USA.
It certainly was a fine beer to finish on, although rather
cheekily, I still had room for a half of the keg Five Points Pale 4.4% ABV,
before time was called at the bar, and I made my way home through the fog.
Wednesday, 1 November 2017
A knight in shining amour?
With the government’s disastrous Brexit strategy disintegrating
before their very eyes, who better to come charging to the rescue than
mullet-haired Tim Martin; arch Brexiter and chairman of J D Wetherspoon.
Martin, of course, was one of the few British business
leaders to back the Leave Campaign, and during the EU referendum campaign distributed
hundreds of thousands of pro-Brexit beer mats to the group’s pubs. So today’s
announcement, via Twitter, that, “We've placed 500,000 beer mats in our pubs
with a hard-hitting message on Brexit to parliament”, hardly comes as a
surprise. The mats list three points in what the group describe as “The
Wetherspoon Manifesto”.
It states that the UK
should unilaterally grant rights of citizenship to legal EU immigrants.
Additionally, it points to the fact that the EU currently charges taxes on food imported from outside the EU, and that from 2019 the government can and should eliminate these import taxes- which will also mean that EU food imports will continue to be tax-free. Wetherspoon argues that this will result in a reduction in food prices in shops and pubs.
The manifesto also says that from March 2019 the government should stop paying the EU £200 million per week, stressing that the money disappears into EU coffers which have not been audited properly since 1994.
Additionally, it points to the fact that the EU currently charges taxes on food imported from outside the EU, and that from 2019 the government can and should eliminate these import taxes- which will also mean that EU food imports will continue to be tax-free. Wetherspoon argues that this will result in a reduction in food prices in shops and pubs.
The manifesto also says that from March 2019 the government should stop paying the EU £200 million per week, stressing that the money disappears into EU coffers which have not been audited properly since 1994.
The first point makes perfect sense, as it is high time
Theresa May’s government stopped using the large number of EU migrants who
have, quite legitimately, made their home in Britain, as "bargaining chips" in
their increasingly fraught Brexit negotiations with the European Union. These people have contributed to the UK
economy, as well as paying taxes here, and the uncertainty they have faced as a
result of “Call me Dave’s” reckless referendum gamble, is unacceptable in a civilised
society.
The last point about the EU accounts being un-audited, it
blatantly untrue, but continues to be bandied about by increasingly desperate pro-Leave
Campaigners.
According to the BBC, “The EU's accounts are
scrutinised by the Court of Auditors, which checks whether they correctly reflect the spending of the EU budget. The
latest report, published in 2015 for accounts in 2014, explicitly said that the auditors were
"signing off the accounts" as they have done every year since 2007”.
The middle point about food prices seems
totally at odds with a claim made by the chairman of Sainsbury's, who recently
told the Sunday Times that imported food prices could rise by 22% without a
'deal' with the EU. Similar claims have been made by the CBI and other
organisations.
Whatever views they might have on Brexit, many have called
into question the wisdom of mixing beer with politics, as numerous comments on
Twitter have pointed out. The cynics amongst us might also argue that the
largest two groups amongst Mr Martin’s customers (pensioners and the work-shy),
are also those who voted in large numbers for Brexit.
Tim is, in effect, preaching to the converted, but is no
doubt anxious to keep these two groups on board, in spite of the obvious hit
the UK economy
and living standards have already taken, since last year’s referendum result. It’s
difficult to say what his motives are, but like those of the government, they’re
probably not altruistic.
The final words on this matter can be neatly summed up by
the man who started this nonsense, and whose memory is commemorated by the Blue
Plaque above.
Tuesday, 31 October 2017
Old Family Brewers of Britain. Part Eleven - Fremlins of Maidstone (& Faversham)
I was prompted to resurrect this article, which I first
wrote some time ago. It appeared, in part, in the “Gateway to Kent Pub Guide”,
produced by my local West Kent Branch of CAMRA, in conjunction with the
neighbouring Maidstone and Gravesend branches. It concerns Fremlins of
Maidstone who, in their heyday were the largest of the breweries in Kent.
The story begins in 1861, when Ralph Fremlin acquired an almost derelict
brewery, in Earl Street Maidstone, from the executors of Mr John Heathorn. Ralph
was a deeply religious man and his beers were produced for the family trade
only. This was because his principles ruled out the purchase of public houses.
Ralph Fremlin became a pioneer in the supply of beers in bottles and gallon
jars, and the brewery's range of products was remarkable.
Fremlins main product was pale ale which became an increasingly popular
drink, as public demand changed away from the dark porter style beer, and in
order to facilitate the sale of the company’s beers, branch offices were opened
in London and other towns in the South-east of England. By 1881 Fremlins had
stores in London, Brighton, Rochester, Hastings and Guilford, and had a
workforce stood of over one hundred including eight coopers.
New up-to-date premises were built in 1883 and a few years later Fremlins
began supplying pale ale to the Courage brewery in London, becoming one of the
largest brewers of pale ale in the country. From the 1890`s the firm were also
brewing lager and this became a success in its own right.
In the mid 1920’s the company, which was now known as Fremlin Brothers
Ltd, started to acquire its own public houses. This began with the lease of the
tied estate of Leney & Company of Dover and Flint & Company of
Canterbury. This was followed by the acquisition of their Maidstone neighbours,
Isherwood, Foster & Stacey in 1929.
Fremlins then cast their net further afield, taking over Adams' Brewery
in Halstead, Essex in 1939 and Harris, Browne's Hadley Brewery at Barnet a year
earlier. Their biggest acquisition though occurred in 1949, when they purchased
Faversham-based George Beer & Rigden, and adopted the company’s slogan of
“Kent’s Best”. The former Rigden brewery in Faversham was closed in 1954, with
all brewing taking place in Maidstone, but the plant reopened in 1961 to meet
increasing demand.
In 1960, following a deal with
Whitbread, Fremlins started supplying the 189 pubs belonging to Frederick Leney
& Sons of Wateringbury, although Whitbread remained in control
of the Wateringbury brewery.
The Fremlins elephant lost its freedom seven years
later, when Whitbread bought the business with its 800 or so licensed
properties. Fremlins, in common with many other regional breweries, had gone in
under the “Whitbread Umbrella”; the organisation set up by Whitbread to offer
security and protection from takeover. In 1967, Whitbread acquired a
controlling role, and the company assumed the title of Whitbread Fremlins.
Whitbread had began a policy of association with local and
regional brewers ‑ the so‑called "umbrella" policy, a decade or so earlier. Under this
arrangement companies concerned about the possibility of take‑over became
associates by offering Whitbread a minority share-holding (usually between 25
and 35 per cent). Whitbread were normally asked to nominate a representative to
sit on the company's board, and in return for the protection offered, together
with technical and marketing advice, the company agreed to stock certain
Whitbread products, notably bottled beers.
Having to stock Whitbread bottled beers had an immediate effect on
Fremlins own range of bottles which, at the time of the takeover numbered nine
bottled beers. The range of draught beers was also cut back (more on that
later), although for a while things continued much as they were before.
The brewery entrance 1980 |
It therefore came as a bit of a shock when, in 1972 the closure of the Pale Ale Brewery in
Maidstone was announced, along with the transfer of all brewing operations to
the former George Beer & Rigden Brewery in Faversham. The reasons behind this
decision were unclear, but in his autobiographical account of his fifty years
at Fremlins, entitled “Under the Elephant”, former brewery worker, Percy
Jeffrey writes that the original plan had been to re-build the Maidstone
brewery. This was later cancelled in favour of transferring brewing to
Faversham.
In 1977, the brew-house and much of the infrastructure connecting the
Pale Ale Brewery to the River Medway, was demolished, in order to construct the A229 diversion around Maidstone
town centre, along with the new St Peter's Bridge. Then in 1981, the fermenting block;
the remaining sizeable building, was demolished.
Fremlins Maidstone Brewery - in its heyday |
At the same time as the transfer of brewing to Faversham
the range of Fremlins beers was drastically cut back. Most of the bottled beers
disappeared, as did virtually all the draught beers. The latter were replaced
by Whitbread Trophy. The idea behind Trophy was that it was varied from region
to region, supposedly being brewed to suit local tastes and palates. The Trophy
produced at Faversham, for example, was loosely based on the former Fremlins
Three Star Bitter.
In its heyday though, Faversham-brewed Trophy was an
excellent beer; the phrase “well-balanced” springs to mind, but would not
really have done the beer justice. On form it was one of the finest session
beers around. I remember knocking back eight pints of it in the village local
one night, and feeling as right as rain the next day!
I spent the years 1974-1979 living away from Kent;
initially as a student in Greater Manchester, and after that living and working
in London. When I returned to the county I was pleased to discover that
Whitbread had re-styled their Faversham-brewed Trophy as Fremlins Bitter, in an
effort to promote a more local image. Pubs were re-painted in Fremlins livery,
and the famous Elephant trademark was brought back. Finally a new stronger beer
called Fremlins Tusker (named after the elephant) was introduced to compliment
the bitter.
Tusker was a superb beer, being full-bodied and malty, yet
well-hopped at the same time.
Unfortunately sales did not live up to expectations. A
combination of high-pricing, a recession, plus resistance to strong beers from
consumers, especially in rural areas where it was often necessary to drive to
the pub, led to slow turnover of the beer in many outlets. This in turn led to
poor quality beer and hence even slower turnover. Tusker became increasingly
more difficult to find, especially in good condition. Eventually the beer was
discontinued, barely five years after its launch.
A few years later, Fremlins Bitter also went through a bad
patch. The brewery blamed the brewing water, but eventually the problem turned
out to be one of yeast infection. By the time the problem had been sorted out,
the beer had become a shadow of its former self. Things got so bad that at one
stage most Kent drinkers, myself included, refused to touch it.
In 1991 the closure of the Faversham Brewery was
announced. The reasons trotted out, by Whitbread, at the time were the usual
big-brewery double-speak, and probably had more to do with the property value
of the quite substantial town-centre site, than anything else. Once again I
felt extremely saddened by this act of corporate vandalism, especially as I had
been privileged to have toured the brewery twice. On both occasions I had seen
for myself what an interesting place it was, with some very traditional brewing
plant and equipment.
The closure of the Faversham Brewery not only deprived
Kentish drinkers of a favourite local brew, but also brought to an end Whitbread’s
own direct involvement with the county’s brewing industry. For Fremlins, the
closure marked the final chapter in a history that began during the latter half
of the nineteenth Century and which at one time, saw them achieve the
distinction of being Kent’s Premier Brewers.
The brewing of Fremlins Bitter was initially transferred
to Cheltenham, and then to the former Nimmo’s brewery at Castle Eden, County
Durham. During the latter half of 1997, the brand was dropped altogether, along
with a number of other “local” Whitbread beers. The beer that was promoted as
“A part of Kent life” was thus no more.
It is one of my biggest regrets that I never managed to
sample the original Maidstone-brewed Fremlins beers. The 1972 closure of the
brewery took place at a time when although I was becoming more appreciative of
what constituted a decent pint, I still had much to learn about beer and brewing.
I have talked to several older drinkers, all of whom remember Fremlins. Some
even remember County Ale.
According to a guide to Kent Pubs, published in 1966, as
well as Three Star Bitter, Fremlins produced an ordinary bitter, a mild, a Four
Star Bitter, plus the revered County Ale.
This was a strong beer which surely would have given its namesake from Ruddles
a good run for its money!
Fremlins County Ale did continue as a bottled beer for
some years after the closure of Maidstone, but according to one local report
was produced in Portsmouth. This hardly made it worthy of the title “Kent’s
Best” - the advertising slogan Fremlins inherited, along with the brand, from
George Beer & Rigden, the former owners of the Faversham brewery.
Wednesday, 25 October 2017
Something to whet the appetite
You come across all sorts of interesting things on blogs,
and quite often the most fascinating can come from a single paragraph, or even just a couple of sentences.
Take this snippet which I came across on Pub Curmudgeon’s blog, “I’m a regular buyer of the Good Beer Guide, and the main
purpose for which I use it is to find interesting pubs to visit when I’m away
on holiday or out on day trips. One of the key things I’m looking for is pubs
to have lunch when out and about. It can be very valuable in taking me to pubs
that I wouldn’t otherwise have found.”
Now the main article was a mild ticking off for those CAMRA
branches who select pubs for the Guide, based on their own personal
preferences, or are sometimes influenced by internal branch politics, rather
than choosing pubs which are of benefit to those who buy and use the GBG It was also a rallying cry for branches to remain focussed on what the Guide is all about.
My main point of interest though is the fact Mudgie obviously likes his pub-grub, especially at midday; and so do I. The daytime trips which my
own local West Kent CAMRA branch arranges from time to time, will inevitably
include a suitable pit-stop, so that members can get a decent bite to eat, and
it goes without saying that careful thought will be put into making sure the
lunchtime stop is at a pub which offers good food, alongside equally good beer.
This is well in tune with my own thinking, as when I am
drinking, I like also to have something more solid to soak up the beer. In
short, I don’t like drinking on an empty stomach. Evenings are a little
different, in that I will normally have my dinner when I arrive home from work,
and then ideally will allow a couple of hours to pass before heading off to the
pub.
Holidays are again different as the evening meal will
invariably be in a local bar or restaurant, where I can enjoy a few pints with
my meal. I have written previously about how, during the week I normally shy
away from a pint at lunchtime, particularly during the working week. This is
largely due to the soporific effect which even a single pint can have on me
when I return to the office, but at weekends, and especially whilst on holiday,
I still prefer something solid inside, even if it is just a couple of rolls or
a pie.
I’m not sure where this habit came from, as neither of my
parents were drinkers, and both were certainly not pub-goers, but being despite being the “black sheep of the family” something must have clicked,
relatively early on in my drinking career, which brought on the hunger pangs if
I was to sit down in a pub at lunchtime, for anything more than a pint.
Some might argue that beer stimulates the appetite, whilst
others would say that the distending of the stomach, by all that liquid, is the
stimulus responsible for the feelings of hunger.
Not everyone feels the same of course, and I know some
drinkers who remain content to enjoy lunch in a purely liquid form. The two
people I am thinking of in particular, are both heavy drinkers, and I get the
feeling that stopping to eat some how interferes with their drinking.
This may be true, and each to their own of course, but for me, especially when I am off on a CAMRA outing, or have spent the morning walking around a picturesque or historic town, there is nothing finer than stopping for a few pints, along with a bit to eat. The same applies when out for a ramble, and probably more so, as the combination of exercise and all that fresh air, are guaranteed to have worked up an appetite as well as a thirst.
This may be true, and each to their own of course, but for me, especially when I am off on a CAMRA outing, or have spent the morning walking around a picturesque or historic town, there is nothing finer than stopping for a few pints, along with a bit to eat. The same applies when out for a ramble, and probably more so, as the combination of exercise and all that fresh air, are guaranteed to have worked up an appetite as well as a thirst.
I am certain I am not alone in thinking this, and would be interested
to hear what other people’s thoughts are, on this matter.
ps. Having met Pub Curmudgeon in person, I can vouch for him
being a far more amiable and affable soul than the persona he sometimes
projects on his blog. I am particularly pleased to learn that, like me, he
enjoys a bite to eat with his lunchtime pint.
Monday, 23 October 2017
Spa Valley Railway Beer & Cider Festival 2017
Well that’s the Spa Valley Railway Beer & Cider Festival
over for another year, and no doubt once everything’s been totalled up, the
suppliers paid and the accounts all balanced, the branch (West Kent)
will be getting a full report on how it all went.
I did a stint behind the bar on Saturday, and apart from a
half hour break to grab something to eat, worked pretty much non-stop from 2pm through to 10.30pm.
To say it was manic in the engine shed at Tunbridge Wells West, would be
an understatement, but it was a great team effort put in by all those present,
which ensured everything ran as smoothly as possible and there were no hold-ups
or indeed hiccups.
I say this because as well as the obvious front-facing roles
of serving the hordes of thirsty customers, there were other equally important
jobs, all essential to keep the place running. There was a constant stream of
new arrivals at the glasses stand, and the same could be said of the cash desk;
where the folding stuff is exchanged for tokens, to enable people to buy their beer or
cider.
Then there were the people constantly re-filling and then
emptying the glass washer, plus the equally important job of collecting the
high denomination tokens from behind the
bar and ensuring there were sufficient low value ones to give in return as
“change”. The whole thing was a continuous cycle which, as I said above, worked
well.
Despite being extremely busy, I actually enjoyed my time
behind the bar and my interaction with the paying public. I didn’t have a
single awkward customer, and whilst some did dither by asking for too many tasters, I was able to leave them to deliberate for a short while whilst
serving those who knew exactly what they wanted.
I was able to offer recommendations to those unsure exactly
what they were after, or those disappointed to find their chosen beer had
already sold out, and in the main people were pleased with my suggestions.
Beers running out became an increasingly more common occurrence as the
afternoon rolled on into the evening, and I was disappointed to have
missed Larkin’s Porter and Harvey’s
Bonfire Boy.
Both beers were on sale by special dispensation of the
brewers; Larkin’s Porter is not normally released until November 5th
and the same applies to Bonfire Boy. The story circulating amongst the organisers
was that sanction had to be obtained from Harvey’s
MD Miles Jenner, in order for the supply of the latter; and then it ran out
before I could enjoy so much as a sip!
It was that busy behind the bar that there
was literally just time for a quick glug, before the next thirsty punter
appeared waiting to be served. Now I know many CAMRA festivals have a policy of
not allowing staff to drink behind the bar., but fortunately West Kent CAMRA have
always followed a more relaxed approach, and providing people don’t "take the
piss", staff are allowed a beer or three whilst on duty.
I think this is only fair, as we are all volunteers who have
given up our time to help but, as I pointed out above, things were that busy
there wasn’t time to even re-charge one’s personal glass, let alone drink much
of the contents!
I mentioned being
able to assist people in choosing a beer which suited them, and I think this is
one of the most important parts of a CAMRA-run beer festival. Of course there
were the people who went straight in on the loony juice, but the festival
policy of restricting the sale of the few 10% ABV and above beers, to third of a
pint measures only, paid off and ensured these casks lasted longer than they
might otherwise have done. More importantly, this stopped the loony brigade from
becoming inebriated too quickly.
I made a point of wearing the hat I brought back from
Oktoberfest behind the bar, and this acted as the perfect ice-breaker and
conversation starter with many customers. A number of them, and especially the
ladies, confused it with the hats worn by pupils at Hogwarts, so I had a little bit of explaining to do!
As well as the main bar selling cask-conditioned ales
(including Green Hop beers), there was a craft-keg bar opposite, offering domestic
and imported key-keg beers. This was operated by local Beer Café proprietors -
Fuggles, but as things were so hectic, I never got the chance to visit this
bar.
There was also a good selection of traditional ciders and
perries, all sourced locally from producers within a 40 mile radius of the
festival. Food was provided in the form of a barbecue (burgers, hot dogs and
bacon rolls), plus a Thai food stall which served me up a most welcome
vegetable chow mien, drizzled with hot chilli-sauce.
Unlike previous years, I didn’t get the chance to journey
down the line and try some of the beers on sale at either Groombridge or Eridge
stations, but the reports were that both locations were equally busy. There
were a couple of live bands playing in the engine shed from late afternoon
until 10pm, and these helped to really get the party atmosphere going.
Things had quietened down by the time the band stopped
playing and I was finally able to enjoy a few beers. The photos, scattered
throughout this post, illustrate those beers I was able to sample. The ones
which really stood out, included Burning Sky Plateau 3.5%, Elland White Prussian 3.9%, Black Edge India
Pale 4.7%, and Brentwood Chockwork Orange 6.5%.
By close of play on Saturday, I estimated that
three-quarters of the beers had been sold, and many other casks were close to
running dry. I understand that the Friday had been nearly as busy, although
Sunday was reported as quiet.
From the point of those who attended, as well as those
working at the festival, it’s safe to say the event was a success. We will find
out at the so-called “wash-up” meeting, which will take place later next month.
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