If I thought
Thursday's weather was bad,
Friday’s was even
worse. At least on the previous morning we had some sunshine and I managed to
get a fair bit done in the garden, although from mid-afternoon onward heavy
rain put paid to any outdoor activities. With
Friday forecast to be wet for
most of the day, as well as several degrees colder, I decided the best thing to
do was to get out of the house, leave
Mrs PBT’s with the year-end tax returns,
and all the other boring, financial stuff she has to do deal with and find a
pub somewhere.
But where to go, especially on a day when the train drivers embark
on yet another strike? Of necessity my day out would have to be a bus trip, but
even then, it took a while to decide exactly where to go. Late last night, I finally
settled on the large and rather picturesque village of Goudhurst, situated on
the brow of a rather steep hill, in the heart of the Kentish Weald. The main
A262 road runs right through the centre of the village and then does a dog leg around
the churchyard, at the top of the hill. It's a road totally unsuited for large
motor vehicles, and I would possibly even include buses here, whilst large lorries,
and anything articulated, should definitely steer well clear!
It's a route I have travelled dozens of times particularly
as it is the most direct route from
Tonbridge to
Ashford, the town where I grew
up and where my parents lived until retiring up to
Norfolk. The
A262 isn't the
quickest route, although it’s certainly much prettier and more attractive than
the route via
Hadlow, Kings Hill and
M20 motorway. So having travelled through
Goudhurst
on many previous occasions I thought it high time I stopped for a look around.
The fact that there’s a free car-park, close to the
village pond, which is just
before the really steep section of the hill begins, means there was no real
excuse for not having stopped before.
Opposite the pond, is the
Vine Inn, an attractive old, weather
boarded pub sited at the junction of two roads leading into the village. Until yesterday,
it was the only pub in
Goudhurst I had visited, but that was over 20 years ago,
and I’m sorry to report that the
Vine is currently closed, and up for sale. Although
I don’t know the reasons for its closure, I’m surprised that it’s shut, The pub
I was making for though was the imposing, and rather striking, half-timbered
Star
& Eagle Hotel, situated on the right-hand side as you ascend the hill, just
before the kink in the road, next to the churchyard. It's a pub with a very
upmarket appearance but after looking online I noticed it had some good reviews,
so I thought I would give it a try.
I also wanted to take a look at
Goudhurst’s attractive
mediaeval church situated right on the brow of the hill. It’s said that the
church tower affords some spectacular view out across the
weald, but quite
understandably, the tower is only open to the public at weekends between
April
and
October. There wouldn't have been much of a view on
Friday anyway, given the low clouds
and rain that were blowing in from the west, but was still well worthwhile having a
look around inside this lovely old church.
As mentioned above, with no trains running I caught the
No.7
bus from
Tonbridge to
Tunbridge Wells, although whatever possessed the bus
company to put a single deck bus on a route that is normally operated by double
deck buses? Even worse was doing so on a day when no trains were running. I
gathered from the crowd of people waiting at the bus stop in
Tonbridge that
one bus had already been cancelled but somehow, when the bus eventually arrived,
we all managed to squeeze on.
Unfortunately, the nearest available seat was next to a rather
large gentleman who not only took up part of my seat allocation, but also stank
to high heaven! I hate to think the last time this person made contact with soap
and water, but the smell emanating from him was overpowering. Perhaps the
little old lady who’d got on after me, and to whom I offered my seat, had noticed the pong
too since she declined my offer. A real shame, as I would gladly have stood all
the way to
Tunbridge Wells just to get further away from this obnoxious individual.
Once we’d all squeezed our way off the bus in
Tunbridge Wells, there
was time for a leisurely flat white plus a bacon roll from
Greggs, before
walking along to the bus stop to await the
297 Hams Travel service to
Goudhurst
and
Tenterden. The bus turned up on time but with only me, plus a couple of other
people getting on, there were very few passengers on board, and most of whom
got off at nearby
Pembury. It's a very pleasant journey through the
Weald of Kent travelling through the attractive villages of
Matfield, Benchley, and
Horsmonden. I was only
person leaving the bus in
Goudhurst, and as was getting off I asked the whereabouts
of the return bus stop. A passenger, who was getting on, told me it was back around the
corner, just passed the junction. He turned out to be the
relief driver, as I
discovered an hour and a half later, when he was driving the bus on its return
journey to
Tunbridge Wells.
A few steps up the hill from the bus stop was a rather nice-looking
baker's. I'd already clocked the place on
Google Street View, so I popped in and
bought a cheese and tomato baguette, to eat later, whilst waiting for the bus
back. I knew from the website and from photos of the
Star & Eagle on social
media, that the pub was rather upmarket, and that a simple item, like a cheese
roll, would either be non-existent, or cost an arm and a leg, so the local
baker’s made perfect sense.
With lunch settled for later, I crossed the road and headed
off up the hill. I walked around the church first, with this extensive
graveyard that extends across to the other side of a small lane where again there
would be some rather splendid views, but not on that particular
Friday. Afterwards
I stuck my head inside the church and had a good look around. I half expected
someone to appear, asking whether I was in need of salvation, or just wanted to
pray, but as no one did, I had a nice look around, enjoying the peace and quiet
of this lovey old church.
Afterwards, I walked back down the hill for a quick look at
the pond, before retracing my steps up to the
Star & Eagle. I was right in
thinking the pub would posh, and whilst it was upmarket, in a nice sort of way,
it very much reminded me of
Rye.
The
general layout of the pub was the bar occupied the middle section of the building,
with a restaurant leading off to the right. There were also a number of other rooms
to the left. On sale at the bar, were
Harvey’s Sussex Best, plus a
coronation ale
from
Brakspear’s. The latter company, appear to own the pub, and as with the
George & Dragon at
Speldhurst, plus the
Leicester Arms at
Penshurst, they have
acquired some rather prestigious and historic pubs, in this part of
Kent.
I took my pint of
Sussex, plus bag of
Piper’s Crisps – total
cost
£7.10, so work that one out! and sat at a table, overlooking the rainswept
garden at the rear of the pub. It was nice and cosy inside, but for a while, I
was the only customer. Later on, a couple turned up, and ordered themselves a
meal, sitting at a window at the front of the pub. I imagine, the unseasonably
cold weather had put a stop to much of the passing trade that an attractive village
like
Goudhurst, normally attracts, but it’s also worth noting that the
Star
& Eagle has ten bedrooms, for those contemplating a longer stay. There is
also a reasonably-sized car-park at the rear of the pub, accessed by the appropriately
named
Back Lane.
One rather fascinating aspect of the
Star & Eagle, is
that it also owns the adjoining building, which formerly housed the
Eight Bells
pub. The latter always gave the impression of a far more basic and down to
earth sort of place, which I’m sure it was. I'm not sure when it closed, as like
the
Star & Eagle, it was a pub that I never managed to visit. However, as a
rather neat twist to this tale, the
Eight Bells does open occasionally, for
private hire events such as pop-ups, parties, and music events. As a former
pub, it still contains a bar, dart board and pool table, plus a large open
fire. The
Eight Bells is separated from the
Star & Eagle, by a narrow
passage, at ground floor level.It would have been nice to see inside, although I imagine there
would have been various keys to find and security alarms to deactivate, and that’s
assuming the two girls behind the bar had the authority to open the place up
for a casual onlooker, such as me, but it’s nice to learn that this former pub
is still functioning, albeit in a somewhat limited capacity.
After leaving the pub, I crossed the road, walked down the hill,
and found my way to the bus stop. I was glad of the shelter behind the stop, as
I sat there enjoying the cheese baguette I’d bought earlier. I was the only passenger
on the bus as far as
Matfield and was glad at the progress the bus was making.
There was a rather tight connection at
Pembury Hospital, for the bus back to
Tonbridge, and we would probably have made it, if the driver hadn’t decided to
pull up outside a convenience store in
Pembury village, to pick up some lunch!
I can’t really begrudge him for that, but missing the
connection meant a 25-minute wait, in the freezing cold, for the next bus. I did
toy with the idea of nipping into the hospital reception area, and waiting
there, but hospitals aren’t the healthiest of places, so steeling myself against
the cold I waited for the next 218 Arriva bus, to Tonbridge. Several bus routes
include the hospital on their routes, so it does form a handy interchange that
avoids the need to travel in and out of Tunbridge Wells. Consequently, despite
the wait, I was back indoors by 2.30pm, glad that I had finally made the effort
to experience a piece of Goudhurst for myself.