Wednesday 10 May 2023

Pub talk

I mentioned in a previous post how after one of the driest February's on record, March and April turned out complete opposites, as not only were these months characterised by persistent, and at times heavy rainfall, but temperatures too seemed way below average. I was reminded of this the other evening whilst looking through some photos, trying to find some to help illustrate a post I was writing at the time. From the dates on the photos, it appears March and April 2022 were characterised by plenty of sunshine and relatively warm temperatures. Many trees were also in leaf, and we're talking here about pictures taken in April.

Something seems to have gone horribly wrong this year, because apart from the odd warm day, May has continued in the same vein. The wind has a chill to it which, by right, should have disappeared long before, but it's the rain that's been the most annoying, and with low pressure hanging over the country, drawing in wet fronts from the Atlantic, there doesn't even seem to be any end in sight,

This topic came up last Thursday, when I joined members of West Kent CAMRA at the Nelson Arms, in Tonbridge, for a presentation marking the pub achieving Branch Pub of the Year. One friend I was talking to, said exactly the same thing about the weather, and being a keen walker like me, was equally cheesed off. We’d both concluded that with conditions under foot being far too wet and slippery, the risk of falling over, or becoming stuck in the mud, were sufficient to detract from the usual pleasures of hiking in the great outdoors. Consequently, like me, my friend has done very little walking this spring.

Another topic of conversation that evening, was the news concerning the Black Sheep Brewery of Masham, North Yorkshire, being on the verge of going into receivership. This is bad news for anyone who likes a decent pint, and sad news too for a company which celebrated its 30th anniversary last year. Founded in 1992, by Paul Theakston, of the famous brewing family, Black Sheep became a major force in Yorkshire brewing. Now it is facing a “perfect storm” of post-COVID debt, rising costs, and uncertain demand.

There had been a fair amount of debate on one the local West Kent CAMRA WhatsApp groups, about possible reasons for Black Sheep’s troubles, with one of the younger members stating, that the beers the company brewed weren’t exciting enough to appeal to his generation. Several of us responded that whilst there might be the odd grain of truth in this, not everyone wished to drink beers with a strong citrus flavour. I made the point that with very few pubs of their own, Black Sheep might have placed too much reliance on the free trade, and have now found out just how fickle this section of the market can be, and how cut throat is the competition to get their beers on the bars of Yorkshire pubs.

Another contributor chipped in saying that the lack of a flagship brand within the Black Sheep portfolio, was a serious handicap for the brewery.  He claimed that Riggwelter would fit the bill, but it was a beer that drinkers rarely come across, and one that seems to receive very little promotion, certainly outside of its Yorkshire heartland. I personally think that a flagship brand can be a double-edged sword. In the past, breweries have been purchased by a larger rival, that just wants to get its hands on the better known, named beer.

Theakston’s Old Peculier was one such beer, and after the original family company fell into financial difficulties, the brewery was purchased by Matthew Brown of Blackburn. This turned out to be a bad move for the Lancashire company, as their ownership of Theakston’s attracted the attention of a much larger fish, in the guise of Scottish & Newcastle. The latter didn’t give two hoots about Matthew Brown, its brewery or its beers, they just wanted to add the Old Peculier brand to their portfolio.

Sure enough, following a rather bitter takeover battle, S&N acquired the Theakston brands they were after, Matthew Brown’s Blackburn brewery was closed, and the Brown name very quickly disappeared. If you want to know how quickly, ask how many of today’s drinkers have heard of Matthew Brown? I suspect there is a large proportion of CAMRA members who haven’t heard of the brewery, either.

I’ve laboured things rather on this last point, and we’ve drifted way off topic from my opening remarks about the weather, but this is often what happens with many conversations that take place over a few pints. There’s no getting away though from the point that, like the weather, the brewing industry and pub trades are both in a state of flux, with no-one really knowing what the end game will be. As with all the other bad stuff that is going on in the world at the moment, a little stability, would be most welcome, but whether or not it materialises, is anyone’s guess.

7 comments:

Sheffield Hatter said...

Interesting post, Paul. Do you know for sure that Scottish & Newcastle were after the Old Peculier brand? Even if so, they seem to have quickly tired of it - as this newspaper piece from 2003 seems to show: https://www.thenorthernecho.co.uk/news/7016357.time-healed-rift-tore-theakstons-apart/. This was at the time that the Theakstons brewery was about to be re-established as a family business, I believe.

Theakstons Best Bitter (a beer that I have thought in recent years had been sadly - or do I mean badly? - misnamed) seems to sell in vast quantities in the Yorkshire Dales and all over the north of England, whereas Old Peculier is most often seen on supermarket shelves in 3 for £5 deals.

Hardly seems worth breaking up a family for.

Ian Worden said...

Matthew Brown was not bought for any 'brands' but for the pubs. It had overcapacity at it's Manchester brewery and had bought Home which was in the same situation. It needed to transfer some production to Home to justify that purchase and Brown fited the bill. They originally offered about £100 million for Brown but ended up paying £185 million, at which level I suspect that they struggled to make any profit on the outlay. The whole issue is well documented since both were public companies, and there is also a thorough dissection of events in Hansard for 22 November 1990, on api.parliament.uk (found via a Google search). I can't find any mention there of Old Peculier and indeed when I lived in Yorkshire around 1980 it was a beer that was hardly ever seen although often mentioned for it's strength - more as something to avoid. My employers had shares in Brown and we were one of those that forced S & N to pay up, but it's hard to remember all the detail at this point.

Ian Worden said...

Just to clarify that the Manchester brewery I mentioned was the one owned by S & N.

Paul Bailey said...

The answer to your question Will, is I don’t know for sure that S&N were after Old Peculier, during their long takeover battle to acquire Matthew Brown, but I do know that CAMRA, at the time, strongly believed this was the reason. The fact that they quickly tired of the Theakston’s business, is proof of the fickle nature of the way large companies operate, where investment decisions that seemed a good idea at the time, are often reversed, especially when there is a change at the top, at board level or sometimes just a reshuffle amongst senior management.

Whitbread were notorious for this, especially when they started running down and closing the numerous regional breweries acquired as a result of their infamous “umbrella.” Their Wateringbury brewery, just a few miles down the road from here, is a prime example. New fermenters installed, along with a new plant to treat effluent from the brewery, then, a couple of years later, the brewery was closed, as surplus to requirements.

I’d definitely agree that Theakston’s Best Bitter is a misnomer, but there were many “best bitters “during the 70’s and 80’s that were undeserving of the prefix “best.” It’s surprising to learn that the beer sells well in free trade accounts, when their Masham neighbours are struggling. Perhaps it’s the family name that’s the attraction?

Paul Bailey said...

Ian, I accept what you say about S&N needing to expand their tied estate, as they were always by far the smallest of the “Big Six” in terms of the number of pubs owned. Old Peculier has never been a session beer, so I’m not surprised that you rarely came upon it, during your time in Yorkshire, but it is a prestigious brand, and one that acquired legendary status during the early days of CAMRA.

I can’t recall much about Matthew Brown’s beers, as their tied estate, and distribution, seemed confined to a tight area around Blackburn, and the surrounding villages. During the time I lived in Manchester, I don’t think I ever saw their ales on sale, even in towns to the north of the city, such as Bury, where their Blackburn neighbours, Thwaites, had quite a few pubs.

The question is that apart from CAMRA and the people employed by the company, did anyone seriously mourn their passing?

John Lester said...

I drank a fair bit of Matthew Brown's beer in the 70s and early 80s, but I really can't remember what it tasted like - so my conclusion is that it was nothing out of the ordinary (to be fair, there are several breweries' products from that time that fall into that category). I think you're right, Paul, that Matthew Brown was not a brewery that was much missed - but I would love to have a chance to revise my opinion!

Paul Bailey said...

I would too, John, and the same applies with regard to a lot of beers that are no longer with us. Off the top of my head, I’m thinking, Oldham, King & Barnes (before the new brewhouse came on stream), Tolly Cobbold, Eldridge Pope, Devenish, Buckleys, Border Ales, plus umpteen others.

I would also like to travel back in time and sample Grays and Melbourn Bros, both of which closed within months of me acquiring that first CAMRA Good Beer Guide. The beers I would most like to sample, would be those brewed at the original Fremlin’s Brewery in Maidstone, before its closure by Whitbread in 1972? I’ve read that Fremlin’s County Ale was the stuff of legend!