I’ve been to
King’s Lynn a few times, but never really had
time for a proper look around the town. The town’s direct rail connection to
London provided a convenient and cheap means of travel up to Norfolk,
especially when the route formed part of
British Rail’s Network South-East division.
Back then I had a
Family Railcard, which entitled me and the family to a one
third discount over the entire
south-eastern rail network.
This proved handy for visits to my parents, who’d recently
retired to Norfolk. I’d purchase a discounted ticket; we’d take the train to
King’s Lynn and my father would collect us from the station. Mrs PBT’s also used the route to drop off and
collect son Matthew, when he spent time away with his grandparents.
Most of the time it was straight into dad’s car and then
off, for the 40 minute drive to
Swanton Morley, but I do remember one occasion
when mum accompanied dad, and we spent a while looking around
King’s Lynn,
stopping for a coffee somewhere in the town centre. Last weekend’s brief
stop-over therefore, provided the perfect opportunity to capitalise on my
fleeting acquaintance with the town, and get to know the place better.
Matthew and I drove up to King’s Lynn last Sunday, and after
checking into the bargain-priced Premier Inn on the edge of the town shortly
after 2.30 pm, set off to explore the town. A look at the map revealed a
40-minute walk – eminently doable, apart from Matthew’s aversion to exercise,
so we ended up taking the car.
Despite it being
Matthew’s vehicle, he was also reluctant to
drive – the excuse being that he didn’t know the roads.
“Well neither do I,”
was my stern reply,
“but I can follow road signs and I have a reasonable sense
of direction, and that’s all that’s needed.” I must be growing soft with age,
as I still gave in, and drove us into the centre of
Lynn, using the method described
above.
There was the occasional wrong turn, but we arrived at a
suitably empty car park, behind the High Street, without incident. I made him
pay for the parking though, but surely only a tight-wad council would charge
motorists to park on Sundays and Bank Holidays.
We had a stroll around, the shops having all closed by this
time, admiring the attractive buildings at the north end of the
High Street,
especially those grouped around the quaintly named
Tuesday Market Place. I made
a mental note of a couple of pub possibilities for later, before heading for
the waterfront and a look at the
River Great Ouse.
I remembered this view from that previous visit with my
parents and although the tide was out, exposing banks that are part sand and
part mud, the Ouse is still an impressive site. Much of the water collected
inland from the Fens, drains into the Wash; a large and wide inlet of the North
Sea. King John reputedly lost some of his royal jewels there, when his baggage train
became trapped by the rapidly rising tide.
The much-maligned king had a special relationship with the
town, which was then known as
Bishop’s Lynn, granting in
1204, a charter allowing
the merchant guilds to govern themselves. On
12th October 2016, 800
years to the day after the king lost his jewels, a life-size bronze statue of
King John was unveiled in the town.
I thought I’d throw in that piece of local history, but
perhaps more importantly is the fact that King’s Lynn was one of the most
important ports in the country during the 12th and 13th
centuries, after establishing links with the powerful Hanseatic League. This
association of traders and merchants from Northern Germany and other countries
bordering the Baltic Sea, was an early type of “common market” which contributed
greatly to the town’s prosperity. It left a legacy of medieval buildings
including two former Hanseatic League warehouses, which have now been adapted
for other purposes, (one houses a pub and a restaurant).
It was now time for a drink, and where better, aesthetically
at least, than the attractive, brick-built
Maid’s Head Hotel, overlooking the
Tuesday Market Place. Separated by an alleyway from its larger, and more
grandiose neighbour the
Duke’s Head, the
Maid’s had a cosy and welcoming look about it. I’m
not sure about the authenticity of the two large oval advertising signs,
proclaiming the virtues of
Bullard’s Ales, between some of the upstairs
windows, but the
Maid’s Head is certainly a quirky old building, that is full
of character.
I’d wanted to sit outside, but all the table at the front of
the pub were taken. Instead, we approached the front door where one of the
barmaids was enjoying an afternoon ciggie. She showed us inside and allowed us
to approach the bar. There were two hand pulls, one of which was for Ringwood
Brewery Boondoggle. I opted for that, especially after the barmaid answered my
question about it selling well.
Matthew had an international lager of some description
(probably
Kronenbourg), and we walked across the spacious and virtually empty
bar area, towards the table that was furthest most from the bar. There was a
reason for this, as there were two customers sitting close to the door arguing,
admittedly in friendly sort of way, but with raised voices and rather too much
swearing for my liking.
I don’t what it is about those who have taken too much
drink, but it seems to do something to their voices. The more they have to
drink, the louder they become, but fortunately my choice of seating, in an
alcove away from the bar, did muffle their drunken ramblings, somewhat. So, the
lad and I still managed to have a good chat and made some progress in trying to
map out a way for him to get a rung on the housing ladder.
The
Boondoggle was in fine form too, pale in colour, smooth,
well hopped and topped with a fluffy white head, but as I was driving, I just
stuck with the one pint. Rather annoyingly, as we left the pub, we noticed that
two of the outside table were now free, meaning we missed out on
30 minutes or
so of looking at people and generally watching the world going by. Never mind,
but it’s good to take advantage of the fine weather whilst it lasts.
After leaving the Maid’s Head, there was time for a walk to the
other end of the High Street, in order to view this well-preserved medieval
part of the town. There were some rather attractive looking buildings,
including King’s Lynn Minster (St Margaret’s). We also noted a place called The
Wenns, which is described as a “Chop & Alehouse.” This was an establishment
I had briefly considered for a Sunday evening meal, until I discovered it specialised
in “sharing platters” – something we don’t really do in the Bailey household!
There were quite a few people milling about, but it’s hard
to say how many were locals and how many were visitors. The warm weather may
well have persuaded people out from their homes, but for towns such as
King’s
Lynn, that rely on tourists, things still aren’t looking particularly good.
After seeing the sights, we drove back to the Premier Inn,
where we were staying for the night. Knowing the difficulty of finding a pub
serving food on a Sunday night, I’d taken the precaution of booking a table at the
adjacent Freebridge Farm, Brewer’s Fayre.
It wasn’t offering the full menu, because of the
Corona
situation, but we both had some sort of chicken burger with
“skins-on” chips.
There was no cask available, and no decent lager either, so I made do with a
couple of bottles of
Brew Dog Punk IPA. They were good, but expensive, but
sometimes it’s worth paying that little bit extra.