I survived yesterday’s encounter with the “Real Pub Men,”
and thoroughly enjoyed my tour around the pubs of Shifnal, Shropshire.
This was my first trip to the county since a canal boat holiday, back in the
mid-1980’s, so a return visit was long over-due.
Looking at the map, Shifnal is not that far inside Shropshire,
and just a short train ride away from Wolverhampton and
the West Midlands conurbation, but to me it was
somewhere different, somewhere I hadn’t been to before and the chance to enjoy
beers which we rarely, if ever, see in this corner of the country. It was also
the opportunity to visit a few “proper” pubs, in the company of a group of
like-minded individuals.
I don’t intend to write a piece about all eight pubs we
visited, as I expect either Pub Curmudgeon or Retired Martin will do that.
Possibly they both will in their own inimitable way, so what I want to do, certainly in this introductory
post, is to list out a few highlights.
First on the list is the
Codsall Station Bar. This is
situated at
Codsall station, a few stops back down the line towards
Wolverhampton,
and that was our official meeting point. It was also the location of my first
beer of the day, although I later learned that several of the group had started
drinking earlier, and had visited a couple of other nearby establishments.
This unique pub is situated right on the platform occupies
the original station building. The latter is a handsome, brick-built Victorian
building, with several interconnecting rooms. There is also a conservatory,
right at the far end, where customers can sit and watch the trains arriving and
departing.
The pub is owned by
Holden’s Brewery, and offers a selection
of their own fine,
Black Country Ales, plus the odd
guest beer.
Holden’s are a family-owned
brewery, based in
Dudley, West Midlands
and have been brewing for
104 years. They own around
20 pubs, most of which are
located fairly close to the brewery.
Our meet-up at Codsall
Station provided me with the perfect opportunity to renew my acquaintance with
Holden’s beers, and am pleased to confirm majority were in fine fettle. I
particularly enjoyed the Black Country Mild, along with the equally named Black
Country Bitter, although the Special left a little to be desired.
I found the roaring open fire, in the main room – opposite
the bar, very welcoming, along with the stack of pre-prepared rolls, known
locally as "cobs," stacked by the side of the bar, under a protective hood.
Although tempted, I managed to resist, knowing we’d be
stopping for lunch at one of the pubs in Shifnal, so after finishing our beers,
we walked round to the platform, ready to board the 12.42 train to Shifnal.
Unfortunately the rain had set in by the time we arrived, and as the day
progressed, the damp conditions steadily got worse. We visited seven pubs in the town, and the following ones stand
out for a variety of reasons. One though, is worthy of a mention, if only for
the wrong ones! First the good ones.
The
Plough was the second pub on our
Shifnal itinerary and
also our intended lunchtime stop. Its half-timbered frontage is appropriate to its
heritage, as according to
WhatPub, the
Plough’s origins date back to the
17th
Century. The pub is longer than it is wide, and prides itself on keeping up to
eight cask ales on tap. This is possibly too many, and certainly during the
duration of our visit, there seemed far more pints of
San Miguel being ordered
than pints of cask.
Having said that, my pint of
Hobson’s Champion Mild was on top form and worthy of
3.5 NBSS. Also on top form was the fish & chips, which four of us chose
from the menu board. Even if this dish hadn’t been on offer at two for
£15, it
would have represented excellent value, with a good size piece of battered cod,
chunky chips and mushy peas. What really sold it to me was the accompanying
slice of bread and butter; talk about real comfort food!
The Wheatsheaf is on the opposite side of the road, and was
the fourth pub we called in at. It’s a lengthy, three room pub with a welcoming
fire, blazing away; a feature which was very welcome yesterday, given the damp
and rather cold conditions outside.
The
Wheatsheaf is listed on
CAMRA’s National Inventory as a
historic pub, with an interior of some regional importance. There are certainly
plenty of old beams to support this, and along with the flagstone floors and the
intricately patterned
1930s fireplace, in the public bar, it came across as the
most genuinely historic pub of the whole trip.
The beers were from the Marston’s/Banks stable, noticeably
Banks Mild and Bitter, but also Wainwright (now a Marston’s brand), plus
Courage Director’s. The latter was a surprise find, but most of us opted for
one of the two Banks beers.
The next pub was a disappointment, particularly as the potential
was there for it to be excellent. The
Crown has recently been refurbished by
Wood's
Brewery, who
appear to have been spent a
significant amount of money on it. Strangely, the pub isn’t listed on
Wood’s
website, as belonging to the brewery.
The interior has a very contemporary feel to it, with a
central bar surrounded by four rooms. When we first entered we thought a band
was performing, such was the level and the quality of
the sound emanating from
within, but we soon realised that this was just a sound system with the volume
set way too high. The system was obviously of high spec, such was the quality
of the sound reproduction, but played at such a level as to intrude into every
part of the pub.
As it was, we made our way to the room behind the bar, where
the sound levels were fractionally lower, but they were still excessive –
certainly for a practically empty pub. And there lie the rub, as apart from our
party of five, there were only three other customers. Two of these were sat
drinking at the bar, laughing and joking with the barman, and we had the
impression they were the people responsible for the appalling choice of music
IMO, and for the excessive volume it was being played at.
The sad thing was the beers were all in excellent
condition, despite being a little expensive
for the area, so what is it that drives pub managers to act in a way guaranteed
to drive away custom?
This aside, the other six Shifnal pubs we visited were all good in their own
way, and apart from the Crown, were all trading quite nicely, with a wide age range
and mix of customers; certainly for a
cold and damp, late November afternoon.
I had a thoroughly enjoyable day, sharing the experiences outlined
above, with the excellent company of the “Real Pub Men” and look forward to participating
in future, “Proper Days Out.”
Footnote: I have changed the title to something more appropriate. "Shifty" wasn't the correct adjective to be using when writing about the town.