After departing from Southampton at
around 5pm on Friday, and sailing
through the night, our cruise ship, the Queen Elizabeth, docked at the Belgian port
of Zeebrugge early on Saturday
morning. Neither Mrs PBT’s or I were in a hurry to get ashore, particularly as
our ship wouldn’t be sailing until the early evening.
We’d both enjoyed a good night’s sleep, so much so that I at
least had forgotten that my good lady wife had ordered breakfast in bed. She
was in the shower, when a knock came at the door and one of the waiting staff arrived with her tray of bacon and eggs.
I say “her,” because I was not partaking of such
frivolities, even though room service, if wanted, was included as part of our
package. Unlike Mrs PBT’s, I’ve never been a fan of eating in any bedroom,
whether in a hotel or onboard ship, so as soon as she’d reappeared I left her
to enjoy being pampered, and set off to
locate the buffet on one of the Queen Elizabeth’s upper decks.
There was a choice of at least two buffet and dining areas,
so I picked the least crowded. After scanning what was on offer, I loaded my
plate up with a couple of rather tasty Cumberland
sausages, a few rashers of back bacon and a good helping of scrambled eggs, and
sat down at a vacant, port-side window seat. I was just wondering what to do
about an accompanying hot drink, when the waiter turned up with a most welcome jug of coffee.
From my vantage point, nine decks up from the waterline, I
had a good view of the comings and goings on the quayside below. There were
various groups of passengers disembarking, in order to board the coaches,
waiting to transport them away on a number of pre-booked, shore excursions, but
myself, Mrs PBT’s and our two travelling
companions had a more leisurely day in mind.
I mentioned in a previous post that the excursions were
expensive and, apart from the trip to Ghent,
were heading off to places I’d been to before. Our plan was to make a short
trip ashore, have a look around, buy some Belgian chocolate and a few Belgian
beers, and then come back onboard in time for that most British of institutions
- afternoon tea.
As well as the various coaches, I noticed the appearance of
red, single-deck buses at regular intervals, and quickly sussed out these were
the means of leaving the port. I’d already read that no pedestrian traffic is
permitted in the port area, and that passengers wishing to make their own way
ashore, were required to use the buses, so after finishing my breakfast, and a
second cup of rather strong coffee, I set off back to our cabin to collect my
good lady wife.
She in turn had gathered our fellow travellers – her sister
and her brother-in-law, who were staying in the adjacent cabin. After donning
our coats as protection against the rain, we set off to leave the ship. It’s
worth mentioning here that everything onboard the
Queen Elizabeth is controlled
by means of electronic cards, issued to all passengers, and unique to that
particular individual. The cards are pre-charged against the owner’s credit
card, and as well as providing proof of identity, can be used for all purchases
onboard ship.
With an all-inclusive package, the only things to buy are
alcoholic drinks, luxury items (perfume and jewellery), an upgrade to one of
the more exclusive restaurants and the service charge added in lieu of tipping
individual stewards or waiters. On leaving the ship your card is scanned, and
it is scanned again on return. Additional airport-style security checks are
also carried out on all returning passengers.
Once on terra-firma we boarded a bus, which transported us
the short distance to the
cruise terminal. I was expecting a
passport check to
be carried out, but with our passport information already linked to our card,
there was no need. Apart from a souvenir shop, plus a series of desks offering
various excursions, there was very little at the cruise terminal. It was also
very windy outside, which did not please my wife – something about messing up
her hair!
I discovered at the terminal that we could have instead
taken a bus to the nearby seaside town of Blankenberge,
where there is a lot more in terms of shops, cafés and bars. Unfortunately my
companions seemed much less keen on the idea of a couple of hours in
Blankenberge than I did, and my suggestion to Mrs PBT’s that I could shoot off
there on my own, met with one of those real old-fashioned and very disdainful looks.
Directly opposite the terminal, and overlooking a marina,
there was a factory-outlet shop, selling a large variety of keenly priced,
Belgian chocolates. We dived in, and my wife and her sister bought more chocolate
than they could possibly eat (some of the boxes were gifts, apparently). I
resisted the temptation, although I did succumb to a few of the
strategically-placed freebies.
On the way into the shop, I’d noticed the tell-tale canopies
of a bar, further along the marina, so when Mrs PBT’s went to pay for her
purchases, I enquired, all innocently, as to the whereabouts of the nearest
café. Just a short distance along the marina said the lady at the till. “Would
you recommend it?” I asked. “Certainly,” was the reply.
My suggestion of a short walk and a coffee met with
universal approval, and a few minutes later we piled into the
American-themed,
Café Chevvy's. There were a group of locals sitting at tables close to the door,
(typical dour-looking
Belgians as my wife later described them), but the
proprietress was friendly enough and told
us we were welcome to sit wherever we liked.
After ordering either coffee or hot chocolate for the rest
of the group and a Westmalle Dubbel for me, we sat there enjoying our drinks
and taking in the atmosphere of this typical and rather pleasant Belgian café. There
wasn’t a huge variety of beers on the menu, but what was available was quite
respectable. I tend to prefer the dark Dubbel-style beers, to the paler, but
stronger Trippels, and I have always enjoyed Westmalle’s version
Naturally my Westmalle was served in the correct badged
glass, which came as no surprise to Eileen, but quite impressed her sister. Café
Chevvy's was a lucky find in an area consisting largely of modern apartments and
unused yacht berths. It was also a good place to spend some time with our
travelling companions and to enjoy the excellent Trappist ale.
All good things come to an end and having another beer would
have been pushing my luck, and to be honest one strong
Trappist beer was
sufficient at lunchtime. I paid the bill and we made our way back to the
cruise terminal. Before boarding the
shuttle-bus, I called in at the souvenir shop, which was actually offering a
range of reasonably-priced beers.
I came away with a
Brugse Zot Dubbel, from
De Halve Maan
Brewery, plus a selection from
Fort Lapin;
an artisanal brewery located just outside the centre of
Bruges.
After that, it was back on the bus and back on the boat, ready for afternoon
tea.