Which route to market?

I have written before about the seemingly unstoppable rise in the number of new breweries in the UK, and how I consider that for some time, their numbers have reached a level which is un-sustainable. I know I’m not alone in thinking this, but they keep on coming, fuelled either by people “following their dream” or investors out to make a quick buck in what they see as a still growing market.

If proof were needed that brewery numbers have increased exponentially, I picked up a copy of the latest (Summer) edition of “Sussex Drinker” last week, whilst attending a joint social at the Greyhound in Charcott between my own CAMRA branch and a neighbouring one.

The Bru-News section, which gives updates on all current Sussex brewers, now runs to eight pages, and lists 60 separate breweries. A few of these are still in the “start-up” phase whilst, for various reasons, there is no update on several others. One or two are reported as “not currently brewing”, but the overall picture still remains one of un-fettered growth.

The main question to ask in relation to this is where does their custom come from? How do they find outlets wanting to take their beer, and if they do find places, does this involve elbowing another small brewer’s beers off the bar? The overall picture in the on-trade looks less than rosy, with pubs continuing to close, and whilst there are some well-publicised re-openings (see this blog for examples), trying to find sales outlets for these new brewers.

The appearance on the scene of micro-pubs, may have taken up a little of the slack, but given their size and often limited opening times, they are not proving to be the licensed trade’s salvation by any stretch of the imagination. This still leaves a growing number of micro-breweries chasing a dwindling number of pubs and bars, willing or able to take their beers. So what can be done in order to avoid mass carnage on the UK brewing front?

Having recently returned from a trip to Bamberg; a city which is home to nine breweries, I could not fail to be amazed by the variety of good beer available there, not just in Bamberg itself, but in the surrounding towns and villages. For example, the small town of Forchheim, which is a short train ride from Bamberg, boasts four breweries, each turning out a variety of different beers. So how is it possible for a town of just 25,000 people, to support four breweries?

The answer lies in the history of this part of northern Bavaria, which is known as Franconia (Franken in German). Following the end of WWII, and the partition of Germany into East and West, Franconia found itself relatively isolated from its former neighbours by the Iron Curtain, which ran along its northern and eastern flanks. This isolation allowed the region to plod along slowly at its own pace, sticking with the traditional ways and methods which had served it well for many decades.

Nowhere was this more apparent than in brewing, and here beers which have disappeared from other parts of Germany, can still be found; almost as if the whole region had been stuck in a time warp. Many villages in the area still boast their own brewery, and the majority of them are family-owned. They have been passed down through several generations to the present day, carrying on in much the same way as they have done since pre-industrial times.

I have been visiting Franconia on and off for the past decade, so am quite familiar with the region, its pubs and its beers. This interest was sparked after I picked up a copy of The Good Beer Guide to Munich & Bavaria; a CAMRA publication, which appeared in 1994. It was researched and written by former journalist, Graham Lees, who was one of the four founder members of CAMRA.

Lees had produced the guide after spending several years living and working in Munich during the late 1980’s- early 1990’s. Given that Bavaria is by far the largest of the German states, occupying a similar land area to that of Scotland, he obviously carried out an impressive amount of research, and the guide is certainly no light-weight when it comes to recommending the best beers and the best places in which to drink them.

When Graham was researching his book,  Bavaria boasted 750 breweries, which was a fifth of the world’s total at the time, so you really have to take your hat off to the man. Considering its importance as Bavaria’s capital, and the fact that Lees was living there, Munich gets a fair mount of attention, but Lees does make special mention of Franconia which, at the time contained over 450 breweries; not bad for an area the size of Wales!

In the introduction to the chapter on Franconia, Lees opens with the statement, “For the beer enthusiast, Franconia is close to Paradise – and fortunately not so inaccessible.” He then goes on to describe a brewing culture which predates industrial times in both scale and practice. He mentions villages, of no more than 2,00 people, having two or even three breweries; many producing no more than a few hundred barrels of beer a year, most intended for consumption in the family run pub.

And here is the crux of the matter, and the key as to why this rural, almost cottage industry has survived for so long. He elaborates by describing how alongside the brewery and the pun, the family enterprise might also include a small farm, a distillery producing Schnapps, a butcher’s shop, or even a slaughterhouse. No single part of these family is profitable on its own, but lumped together they combine to produce a reasonable income.

Bearing in mind when the book was written, the author says that as we approach the 21^st Century, Franconia is gradually sliding into the 20^th, placing much of this centuries old way of life at risk. He warns that in the years leading up to the publication of his guide, more than 50 breweries closed in Franconia, taking with them some excellent beers.

Having read this you can perhaps understand as to why I was first tempted to visit Franconia. I was not alone, as the region is now a Mecca for dozens of other beer enthusiasts including, in recent years, many Americans. The latter group have particularly taken the area to heart, possibly because of past military links. A large contingent of American forces was stationed in Bamberg, in the years which followed the end of WWII, and then afterwards as a result of Cold War tensions. It is also not uncommon to come across fellow beer enthusiasts from closer to home, when visiting the local pubs

Nearly a quarter of a century after Graham Lees’s book appeared, good beer is still widely available in Franconia, perhaps given a welcome boost by the conditions described above. With the increase in “beer tourism” many village pubs have branched out by offering accommodation, and this obviously provides an additional and very welcome source of income.

If this model works in rural Franconia, then why shouldn’t it in a county such as Sussex?  If small breweries can prosper in the former, why can’t the same thing apply in the latter? The answer of course is that most of the breweries in Franconia are well-established enterprises, which often date back many years, whilst nearly all those in Sussex are relative newcomers, devoid of the ties and the back-up which enable their Franconian counterparts to not just survive, but also prosper.

In Britain the traditions of close links with village life and the land have virtually died out; even in rural areas. The disappearance of this way of life was not as long ago as you might think, as just few generations ago it was not uncommon to find the landlord of a rural pub either working on the land during the day, or employed elsewhere, leaving his wife to run the pub during his absence. Several of our now sadly vanished country breweries, started off in a similar fashion, providing beer to thirty agricultural workers, and a handful of rural pubs. Ridley’s and Rayment’s  spring to mind, but I’m sure there are quite a few others.

There is one area though where the new wave of UK brewers could follow their much longer-established Franconian counterparts, and that is in off sales at the brewery. It is quite common in Germany to turn up at the brewery yard, and load up you car with a  crate or two of bottles, to drink at home. I saw evidence of this, a couple of years ago, when I visited the small brewery of Kloster Mallersdorf, where the brewing is carried out by nuns, and last year I saw customers loading crates into the back of their cars at Spital Brauerei, in Regensburg.

This practice has also become increasingly popular in the US, where there has been an unprecedented growth in small breweries. Filling up your “Growler”, as portable and reusable containers for draught beer are called on the other side of the Atlantic is a common occurrence at many breweries, so this is another area where UK breweries could capitalise on.

Quite a few of them have gone down this route and are reaping the benefits. Locally Westerham and Rockin’ Robin, spring to mind, but I’m certain there are many more. Selling your beers in Farm Shops is another source of income, and here breweries are mimicking their German counterparts. Five litre mini-casks are also a good idea, and I have seen an increasing number of local shops offering these.

Although Harvey's of Lewes and Fuller's of Chiswick, are long established breweries, both have impressive and well-stocked shops attached to their respective breweries. Fuller's have only recently re-opened their Chiswick shop, following an extensive re-fit. Fellow blogger BryanB, found  "Growlers" being used this side of the Atlantic for draught takeouts, when he called in the other day, along with much more.

Certainly these options are far better, and also far less risky, than relying on the fickleness of a diminishing free-trade market. The latter is increasingly accompanied by ruthless price-cutting, so if you have a brewery shop, not only do you have a guaranteed outlet for your products and somewhere to showcase them, but you will be able to charge a much more realistic price for them.

George & Dragon - Speldhurst

Here’s a short post to act as a "fill-in" whilst I work on a couple of longer ones. It’s about visiting a pub which you haven’t been to in ages, and being pleasantly surprised when you find that, in-spite of a few changes, it's still pretty much as you remembered it.

Our son Matthew, passed his driving test at the tail end of last year. He finally got round to buying himself a car back in March; although to be fair to him, the delay was partly caused by his mother being laid up in hospital for seven weeks at the beginning of the year, and me not having sufficient time to spend looking at suitable vehicles with him.

Well although he’s now got a set of wheels, he hasn’t been that far with them. He’s somewhat on the cautious side (not a bad thing), and still a little lacking in confidence, so I’ve been accompanying him on some of his drives out.

On Sunday, we took a drive over to nearby Southborough, in order to visit the Majestic Wines outlet situated there. Being a lager fan, Matthew has taken quite a liking to the re-vamped Hofmeister Lager, which was relaunched in blaze of publicity around 18 months ago. This time around, the beer has much more genuine credentials, being brewed in Bavaria under the strictures of the Reinheitsgebot, rather than being just another big-brewery brand, promoted by a “jack-the-lad”  bear.

Unfortunately for Matthew, only a handful of local pubs are stocking the beer, and as far as we can make out, the bottled version is only available by mail order. It was therefore something of a fool’s errand to drive over to Majestic, in expectation of them stocking it, but it was an excuse for a drive out, and it gave me a break from digging over our rather weed-infested borders.

Well Majestic was a nicely laid-out store, with friendly and helpful staff, but it is much more of a wine merchant’s than a beer stockist. So needless to say, Hofmeister was nowhere to be seen, although Matt did pick up a case of Radeburger, and I acquired a pack of "King Hop Lager", brewed specially for the chain by Meantime Brewery.

So what to do after was the question? I wasn’t in a hurry to return to my digging, and Matthew fancied a slightly longer drive. We decided to  carry on towards the village of Speldhurst and take a look at the George & Dragon, a rather splendid looking half-timbered building which can trace its origins back to the 13th Century.

The G&D is situated opposite the village church, towards the top of a rather steep hill. Going back to when I worked in the High Brooms area of Tunbridge Wells, it was one of my favourite pubs for a lunchtime drink, even though it was a bit of a drive. Lunchtimes in those days, were slightly more flexible,  so arriving back late on the odd occasion, didn’t raise too many eyebrows.

Matthew wasn’t born in those days and has never set foot in the G&D,  and since work had taken me in other directions, it was quite a few years since last visit. I was aware that, for a while, it had been acquired by a company from Tunbridge Wells, who attempted to turn it into an upmarket eatery, but thankfully in more recent  times it has reverted to much more a traditional village.

According to the website, in May 2017 the pub was acquired by Silverlake Leisure, with the aim of providing  local bitters,  good wines, simply cooked  local and seasonal food using the bountiful produce from the surrounding heart of Kent. 

We pulled into the car park, which was around two thirds full, and headed for the bar. Before entering, I stopped to take some photos and noticed the pub sign which indicates the establishment as a Brakspear’s house. After entering, via a lobby, we went through the right hand door which has always led to the Public Bar. 

Nothing much seemed to have changed, which was re-assuring, with the same old flagstone floor, worn smooth over the course of the centuries by the passage of many feet, and the massive inglenook fireplace opposite the bar. There were three cask ales on tap; Harvey’s Sussex, Larkin’s Traditional and Brakspear’s Oxford Gold. I went for the Harvey’s and was glad I did, as it was in fine form, scoring 4.0 on the NBSS.

The bar was virtually empty, as most people were sitting outside enjoying the fine weather. There are areas both in front of the pub, as well as behind, where customers can enjoy their drink or their meal out in the fresh air. Matthew and I opted for the former, and from our table in the shade of the front of the pub, we could see across to the Parish Church of St Mary's. 

Despite having known the pub on and off for the past 40 years, I have never been upstairs, but the upper floor is home to a 70 seater restaurant, set beneath the ancient oak beams of the rafters. There is also a much smaller private dining room, which can hold up to 14  people.


Obviously a building of this age is full of character, so it is pleasing to see that many of the ancient features have been retained. The beer range is not as extensive as it was in the early 1980's, when I first became acquainted with the pub, but given the known quality issues associated with stocking too many casks, this is no bad thing.

So if you fancy a trip back in time, then do yourselves a favour and pop in. You won't find food at "Pub Grub" prices, but if you do feel like pushing the boat out, then the George & Dragon looks like the ideal place to do so.

An afternoon in Wunderburg

A short distance east of Bamberg, along the line of the Main-Donnau Kanal, lies the suburb of Wunderburg. It is almost a self-contained community with its own church and shops, but of more interest to the beer lover, it is also home to two breweries. What’s more the breweries are on opposite sides of the same street. On the second full day of our stay in Bamberg, and on a day which was perfect for drinking,  our tour group visited both establishments

Many UK beer enthusiasts will be familiar with the name Mahr’s, and it was in the courtyard beer garden which fronts the brewery that we later ended up but, as the beer garden doesn’t open until 4pm, our first port of call was at the lesser known Keesmann Brewery.

We sat outside in what in effect is the brewery yard, where there are a number of tables and benches laid out for those who
enjoy al fresco drinking during warm weather. There was a bit of disgruntlement from a  couple of group members, as they wanted to sit inside, but they were persuaded by the majority of the group that they should join us out in the sunshine.

Sitting in the courtyard brought back memories of that first visit in 2010, when Matt and I sat there watching the brewery staff getting things ready for the local Wunderburg Kerwa; an annual celebration which has religious origins, but nowadays seems just an excuse for a get together accompanied by plenty of beer drinking. This time though the  activity in the yard seemed much more workaday, although that routine was shattered when several cases of bottled beer came crashing to the ground, due to the actions of a careless fork-lift driver.

Keesmann are best known in Bamberg for their Herren Pils brand, which probably is one of the best pilsners in the local area. I also enjoyed the brewery's Helles and their Gold. We had eaten earlier, at the nearby Fässla Keller (more about that another time), but some of our party were getting impatient, and having drank their way through the Keesmann range, were keen to move across the road to Mahr’s Bräu and start on their beers.

An advanced party were therefore sent over, with instructions to secure a table with sufficient space for all 13 of us. Matt and I wandered over later, with the stragglers, and

found the other ensconced at a long table, sheltered from the fierceness of the afternoon sun, at the far end of the courtyard. The garden was relatively empty when we arrived, but by the time we departed, it was packed.

We joined our comrades and got stuck in with the sampling of several of the excellent Mahr’s Bräu beers on offer. This obviously pleased the “Untapped” contingent, who had several more beers to tick-off electronically. As I hinted earlier, Mahr’s are quite familiar to UK beer enthusiasts, and the brewery has even gone as far as launching a collaboration with an English brewery.

The pub attached to the brewery is also well worth a visit, although it was deserted whilst we were there, as everyone was outside enjoying the sunshine.  I popped inside a couple of times, in order to visit the toilets, and managed a look around and also took some photos.

I have been inside the Mahr’s pub during the depths of winter, and it is a lovely old, comforting sort of place, with a real timeless feel about it. During that visit, in late December 2010, one of the beers “Ungespundetes”, was being dispensed direct from a wooden cask, perched up on the bar counter, but I understand this practice has unfortunately ceased.

The temperatures during May’s visit were at the opposite end of the scale and we were glad of the large, square umbrellas which provided adequate shade for the entire table. I enjoyed both the Mahr's Ungespundete Lagerbier, known as "U" and the Helles.

As the late afternoon gave way to early evening, most of the party headed back to the hotel. Matt and I still had some beer left in our glasses and not wishing to rush decided to make our own way back. The only trouble was that despite having been to Mahr’s several times, we couldn’t find the bus stop.

We decided to follow the course of the Main-Donnau Kanal back into the city centre, but rather than walking along the bank, we kept to the road which runs parallel with the canal. We eventually came across a bus stop, but discovered that it was only two stops away from the central bus station. It still provided some welcome relief from the sun which, even at 7pm was still very fierce.

Later that evening Matt and I joined three of our companions for an Indian meal. It was an old friend’s birthday, and instead of pork knuckles and Schnitzels, he fancied a curry. We’d been discussing this earlier, whilst still at Mahr’s, and the consensus was that Germans didn’t really do hot and spicy food; how wrong could they be!

It was quite a hike to the curry house; the Germans haven’t really taken to curry in the same way that us Brits have, so there are only a handful of Indian restaurants in Bamberg. With one of our party following the route indicated by Google Maps on his phone, we found our way to the restaurant via a maze of back-streets which afforded a totally different view of Bamberg.

Indisches Restaurant Swarg was certainly worth finding, and looking back at the map, it wasn't far from Bamberg's main shopping area. As it was Monday evening, it was virtually empty and we almost had the place to ourselves. We were handed English menus, although I imagine the German version would have been quite easy to decipher.

Matt and I both went for a Jalfrezi; lamb in my case, chicken in his. The waiter asked how spicy we wanted it, so we both said "mild". Our companions are seasoned curry lovers, so opted for chicken vindaloo each. They also decided to share a bottle of Burgundy between themselves, but Matt and I stuck to beer - Schlossbrauerei Reckendorf.

We should have gained a hint from the curry paste which accompanied the poppadom starter, as it was exceedingly hot. That cold glass of Helles was already coming in handy. When our main course arrived, it was anything but mild, although I have to say it was extremely good. It certainly put paid to the myth about Germans not liking really hot curries!

We spent an enjoyable couple of hours at Restaurant Swarg, reminiscing over old times and having a good laugh remembering shared experiences. We made our way back to the hotel, by a slightly different route, joining the rest of the group in reception for a couple more beers. They had dined at Cafe Abseits; Bamberg's premium beer cafe, just a short distance away on the other side of the tracks. It had been a good day, but I certainly felt that curry the following morning!

Turning the Page

Following the fallout from the Campaign for Real Ale’s recent AGM, which saw the organisation moving to support  types of beer which don’t always meet the criteria for “Real Ale”, CAMRA finds itself mired in another controversy.

This follows the recent resignation of Chief Executive, Tim Page, who has been at the organisation’s helm for the past three and a half years. Tim was appointed in 2014 to succeed Mike Benner, who without doubt was the most successful CEO in CAMRA’s history. Mike moved across to the independent brewer’s organisation  SIBA, in order to take on the role of Managing Director.

Mike Benner was always going to be a hard act to follow, so Tim Page was almost certainly on a hiding to nothing when he stepped into Mike’s shoes. Coming as he did from the Charitable Sector, Tim had little experience of campaigning, although he did have considerable skills in fundraising and signing up new members to the charities he worked with.

His appointment certainly raised a few eyebrows at the time, and ruffled a few feathers as well, but by concentrating too much on increasing CAMRA membership, there were concerns that Tim was missing the bigger picture. There was also criticism, which was not entirely unfounded, of a lack of direction within the organisation and, on a more personal level, he was accused of having too cosy a relationship with the Pub Companies.

Just over a year ago, I wrote a post entitled “It’s more than just a numbers game,” in which I criticised CAMRA’s obsession with increasing membership numbers and asked just how many of these new members would play an active role within the Campaign? Unsurprisingly there have been no answers to this and other questions, which does rather turn the spotlight onto the departing Chief Executive’s decision to step down after just three and a half years in the role.

Page is reported as seeking to return to the Charitable Sector for the last few years of his working life, so that he can help those most in need, and in a statement, CAMRA’s National Chairman, Jackie Parker said, “Tim has made a considerable impact during his time as our Chief Executive. The past three years have seen the Campaign engaged in a major strategic review of its purpose and positioning within the sector, and Tim has provided advice and support to the volunteer leadership throughout that process”.

The national press were not so charitable, if you’ll pardon the pun, and pinned the blame for Page’s departure on the failure of getting all six of the Special “Revitalisation”  Resolutions passed at April’s AGM.

Away from the press spotlight, Ms Parker was also rather more forthright. In an email to members she said, that whilst Tim had been instrumental in executing a major strategic review of CAMRA, this action had aroused strong passions and unsettled many members.

She countered this by saying that, “The decisions taken at last month’s AGM and Members’ Weekend mean that the Campaign will be in a stronger position to recruit active members, and to continue to campaign effectively.” Jackie went on to thank Tim, on behalf of the National Executive for his contribution to the Campaign during his time with CAMRA and wished him all the very best for the future.  

So where now for CAMRA? There are those in the Campaign who will be glad to see the back of Tim Page, as he certainly aroused strong passions. On the other hand there are many who are grateful for the drive and determination he showed in championing the “Revitalisation Project”, which was aimed at modernising CAMRA and bringing the organisation into the 21^st Century.

So let’s leave the final words to Mr Page, who said in a statement, “I am very grateful for having had the opportunity to be part of CAMRA, which is a truly remarkable organisation. The past 42 months have seen the Campaign maintain its effectiveness in campaigning and lobbying for real ale, cider and perry to be available in every community across the UK; and for those communities to continue to be served by pubs, which provide wide range of benefits for individuals and society as a whole”.

“I am grateful for the friendship and support that I have enjoyed from people across the sector, and look forward to keeping in touch with friends within and outside CAMRA”.

 

Klosterbräu - Bamberg

Well after that longer than intended interlude, we return to Bamberg for a look at another of the city’s pubs. Like the previous example, this one too is a real cracker.

There’s another Bamberg watering hole which is well worth mentioning as well as visiting, and this was where Matt and I headed after leaving Greifenklau.  Klosterbräu is the oldest surviving brewery in Bamberg and also one of the smallest. The brewery is located in the Mühlenviertel area, close to the River Regnitz, in a maze of quaint and narrow lanes.

The picturesque brewery, which is one of Bamberg's oldest timber-framed buildings,  has been brewing for over 450 years, and can trace its history back to 1333. This is when the premises were first recorded as a brewery. Klosterbräu was named after a nearby Franciscan monastery, and was founded as a "dark beer house" in 1533. Until 1790, the Bierhaus was owned by the Prince-Bishops, who were the city's religious rulers.

The brewery was secularised at the end of the 18th Century and passed into private hands. It has been owned by the Braun family since 1851, but just over a year ago was sold to Kaiserdom, who operate the largest brewery in Bamberg. The annual output is about 4,000 hectoliters. 

It is perhaps surprising that despite the obvious age of the building,  there was no brewery  tap until 1998. The pub, which was created in stages,  is just around the corner from the main bulk of the brewery.

 The sign Lagerhaus Klosterbräu is painted on the stonework above the ancient wooden door, but ignore this and turn the corner into Concordiastraße, where you will find the pub, plus a couple of areas for outdoor drinking.

The entrance to the pub is though a wide arch, which formerly provided access to the brewery at the rear. There is a room on either side, but the larger room to the right is where the bar counter is situated and is where Matt and I headed that afternoon.

The interior is simply furnished, with dark-wood panelling, a wooden floor and furniture to match. On an overcast day, with the ever present threat of showers, it was the perfect place to sit. Apart from an American couple who popped in looking for smoked beer, we more or less had the place to ourselves. I persuaded the Americans that they ought to stay and enjoy at least one of the Klosterbräu beers, and they heeded my advice.

We ordered a beer each, with me opting for the Kellerbier; a relative newcomer to the Klosterbräu portfolio, whilst Matthew opted for a Gold Pils. The friendly waitress asked if we wanted to eat, but I told her we'd eaten a short while ago. I purchased a bottle of Schwärzla, which is a dark lager, to take home with me, but writing this I'm wondering why I didn't go for a bottle of the seasonal Maibock instead.

Before leaving I needed to use the toilets, which were further along the passageway. On the way back I took a peek inside the brewery, which is situated behind the main bar.  As mentioned above,  I knew that Klosterbräu had recently been acquired by Kaiserdom, so I wanted to check that brewing was still taking place at the Mühlenviertel site. I am pleased to report that it is, and the brewing process appeared to be in full swing.


It's worth recording that Matt and I visited Klosterbräu on our first to Bamberg in July 2010. On that occasion it was a baking hot day so  we sat outside, at some tables (with pub umbrellas), just around the corner. Later on the same trip on a very humid evening, following a thunderstorm with torrential rain, we sat inside and enjoyed an excellent meal of Schnitzel and chips. Gold Pils and Schwärzla were again our tipples of choice, but Klosterbräu also produce an interesting Braunbier, as well as a number of seasonal specials.

Like Greifenklau, Klosterbräu comes highly recommended, and like the former, it takes a bit of finding, despite being in the heart of the city. However, if you want to escape the crowds, and it's food and a friendly welcome you are after, then it's well worth making the effort to find what is probably the most picturesque of Bamberg's many pubs.

Dry run

Here's something a little bit different as it’s a post without any beer. There might have been beer, and it was my every intention that there would have been beer, but the best laid plans and all that!

To elaborate, it was the Late Spring Bank Holiday Monday, and I decided to take my bike for a ride. The household chores were up to date, it was too hot for gardening and whilst we were planning a barbecue for later on, it seemed a good idea to get out into the countryside and enjoy a slice of the great outdoors.

There’s a new cycle-way opened locally; actually there are two cycle-ways, as I discovered earlier. To set the scene it’s worth looking back to the long-awaited opening of the new section of the A21; the London to Hastings trunk road. For years motorists travelling between Tonbridge and Tunbridge Wells had to put up with a two and a half mile section of single carriageway. Seeing as the aforementioned settlements are the largest towns in the area, this was not a good state of affairs, and the congestion along that stretch of the A21 was never good, and often appalling.

Starting with the Blair government in 1997, successive administrations  played political football over widening the so-called “missing link”. A scheme would be agreed, the necessary planning consent approved, funds were made available, and then there would be a change of government. The project would be cancelled, as part of a spending review and it would be back to square one.

So when work started back in 2015, there was some optimism locally that at last it would be possible to drive between Tonbridge and Tunbridge Wells, along a decent, dual-carriageway road, free from any hold-ups. After a few delays, the new section of road finally opened late last year, and straight away it brought a massive reduction in congestion and a significant reduction in journey times between the two towns.

Driving along the old road, and watching the new one slowly taking shape, did show the construction of what looked like some sort of “service road” running alongside the new dual-carriageway, and it was later revealed that this was to be a new off-road, cycle path, between the two towns. Actually, the path runs from the edge of Tonbridge to the top of the North Farm Industrial Estate - Tunbridge Wells Retail Park.

Once the landscaping work along the road had been completed, news broke that the cycle-way was now open, with the official opening taking place a couple of weekends ago. The MP’s from both towns, were photographed at the opening ceremony, riding their bikes at least part of the way along the path' although I wonder how far they actually went, once the photographers had disappeared!

If they could do it, then so could I, so on Bank Holiday Monday, I set off on my rather basic hybrid bike which I bought 20 years ago from Halfords, to see how far I could get along this new, and very welcome local amenity.  The sun was shining, and with hardly a cloud in the sky, temperatures were already in the mid-twenties by midday. Fortunately, there was a bit of a breeze blowing, but in sheltered spots the sun felt really fierce.

The cycle-way begins a short distance away from the Vauxhall roundabout, and almost straight away it starts to climb. As mentioned above, the path follows the A21, and as this road passes Tonbridge, it climbs steeply up Castle Hill; the site of a former Iron Age Hill-Fort. Monday was the first time this year that I’ve ridden my bike, so I was a little out of practice. I therefore don’t mind admitting that there were at least three occasions when I dismounted and pushed.

Despite the noise of the traffic, just a few feet away but behind either an embankment or a fence, it was great being able to cycle without fear of being tailgated or even getting mown down by irate motorists in a tearing hurry. As the route took me nearer the summit of Castle Hill, I turned round to enjoy the view back towards the outskirts of Tonbridge.

Eventually I reached the top, where the path flattened out and then began to slope away slightly. At this stage I was on the old part of the A21, which is now used solely as access to the farms and cottages which look out onto the road. With the new dual-carriageway hidden behind an embankment, the occupants of these dwellings  must surely be enjoying a much deserved boost in the quality of their lives.

I carried on until I reached a newly created underpass, which allows access from both sides of the carriageway, to a side road which leads down towards Capel. Rather than carry on to the end of the path at North Farm, I decided to dive under the carriageway and see where the route led.  This was because the first option meant a downhill ride thereby losing  much of the height I’d gained.

Taking the second option led me to an alternative, off-road route first to Pembury Hospital, and then to the large village of Pembury itself. In the future this would be a good route to follow, especially as there are three reasonable pubs in Pembury. Yesterday though, I decided I’d come far enough and it was time to retrace my route and head back down towards Tonbridge. I had a few items of shopping to pick up in the town and after my exertions, I also really fancied a beer.

I turned the bike around and sped off, confident in the knowledge that the vast majority of the route home would be downhill. You get a real smug feeling when free-wheeling downhill, especially when you meet people puffing and blowing, as they struggle uphill in the opposite direction. To give some idea of how good the return journey was, it took me just over 5 minutes to get back to the Vauxhall roundabout, compared to over 35 minutes on the uphill, outward stretch!

I headed towards the centre of Tonbridge, via the “mini-bypass”, using the completely pedestrian-free pavements as an impromptu, off-road cycle-way. There are plans to extend the new cycle-path into the town centre, but for the time being I’m completely at ease in breaking a rarely-enforced, 19^th Century law, than risk disappearing beneath a juggernaut.

Once I reached Cannon Lane Bridge, I used the tow-path which runs alongside the River Medway to take me into the heart of Tonbridge. The developers have been at work here, with rows of expensive-looking houses lining the opposite bank. Fortunately the massive gas-holders, and the old gas works site on my side of the river, preclude, for the time being at least, further houses being built.

After a brief pause to admire the scene at Town Lock, I made my way to Tonbridge Castle, fully expecting the town’s Food & Drink Festival to still be in full swing. Fuggles had a stall there, so I was really looking forward to enjoying a nice refreshing pint in the courtyard beneath the ancient castle walls.

Imagine my disappointment then at discovering the festival had finished the previous day. All the tents, stalls and other associated items had been cleared away, leaving nothing in the way of refreshment or sustenance for a tired cyclist to enjoy. There was nothing for it, but to pedal across the busy Sports-ground to the Nelson Arms, which I was sure would be open.

It was a double whammy then to find the pub well and truly closed, but at least there was a note on the door informing thirsty customers that the place would be opening at 4pm. I was 90 minutes too early, so gave up. I could have cycled back to Wetherspoon’s, but Bank Holiday Monday in a garden full of screaming kids and loutish blokes stripped to the waist, had about as much appeal as a wet weekend in Bournemouth.

Instead I called in at Waitrose, for few bits of shopping, picking up my “free” cup of coffee on the way out. So as you can see, there should have been beer, and a nice, long, cool and refreshing pint (or two) of beer would have been the perfect way to end my cycle ride; but there’s always next time.

For the statistically-minded amongst you, my bike ride was 9.16 miles in length and my average speed was just under five miles per hour. However, it did peak at 23 mph on the long downhill stretch. I also gained 350 feet in height, and burnt off  1,000 calories.

These stats come from an App on my phone, called Map My Walk. I use it regularly to monitor my lunchtime walks. It’s a bit of fun really, as I don’t take it too seriously, but it’s a useful guide, all the same.

Brauerei-Greifenklau - Bamberg's hidden gem

We left it until our final day in Bamberg to visit what I regard as one of the city’s best pubs, and one of my favourite drinking establishments as well. Situated slightly out of the city centre, on the old road to Würzburg and right on the summit of the Kaulberg, Greifenklau is a lovely old pub and it is well worth taking the bus (or walking, if you’re fit enough), in order to spend a few hours there.

Greifenklau was the nearest pub to the rented apartment which Matthew and I stayed at back in 2010, when made our initial visit to Bamberg. We called in on our first night and sat out in the attractive and shady beer garden behind the pub, and put away a few mugs of the tasty Lagerbier brewed on the premises.

The pub, and brewery, is named after its founder, Freidrich von Greifenklau, and the present building dates back to 1719. The name Greifenklau, comes from the founder’s coat of arms, which depicts a griffin’s claw. Much to son Matthew’s annoyance, I sometimes refer to the pub as Gryffindor, after the Harry Potter novels.

Greifenklau has been owned by the Brockard family since 1914, and is now run by the fourth generation of the family. Until the opening of the Ambräusianum brew-pub in 2004, Greifenklau was for many years, the smallest brewery in Bamberg. The brewery itself was re-built in the 1950’s, and whilst Rauchbier was produced up until the 1930’s, this is no longer the case – or at least it wasn't until just a few years ago.

Greifenklau produce a very tasty pale Lagerbier, and also brew a Weizenbier and a Bock. The latter appears for a short season from November to December. As mentioned above, they have just re-introduced a smoke beer, known as Grief-R, and we were able to enjoy a couple of glasses on our recent visit.

As mentioned above, we left that visit until our final day in Bamberg, stopping off there on a bus journey back into town. We’d travelled out to the village or Bug, about three kilometres from the city centre, in order to visit the Buger Hof Gasthaus. Like many Brits, we found the name of this establishment highly amusing, but it’s the setting of this pub, overlooking the River Regnitz, which is the main attraction; that and the beer from Schlossbrauerei Reckendorf.

The threat of rain had been in the air all morning, and when we reached Greifenklau’s beer garden, the waitress advised us to sit at the tables closest to the pub, as these were protected with some large umbrellas. Her advice was well heeded, as shortly before finishing our meal (Bratwurst mit Pommes), the rain began and we had to move, taking our mugs, plates and thoughtfully provided cushions with us.

The garden can accommodate up to 500 people, and is very popular on warm summer evenings. I find it particularly pleasant as there are a number of mature trees, which provide just the right amount of shade, and the garden overlooks a wooded valley behind the pub. From your table, you can see right across the valley to the picturesque, old Altenburg castle, on the other side, right on the crest of the hill.

Apart from walking through the hallway, in order to access the garden, I have only once actually drunk inside the pub. That occasion was during my visit to Bamberg in late December 2010, when the snow was several inches deep and temperatures were well below freezing; definitely not beer garden weather!

After finishing our meal and our drinks, we reluctantly left. There was one other Bamberg brew-pub that I wanted to re-visit, and I also desired to pick up some bottles of Rauchbier, from Schlenkerla, to take home with me. Before we paid the bill, I bought a couple of Greifenklau from our friendly waitress. One was the brewery’s standard Lagerbier, whilst the other was a bottle of their recently introduced Helles. I haven’t opened them yet, but I’m sure I will do soon.

To sum up, if you ever find yourself in Bamberg and have visited all the "must-do" beery attractions the city has to offer (Schlenkerla, Mahrs, Spezial, Klosterbräu etc), do make time for a visit to Greifenklau. If you do, then I’m sure that just like me, you will be smitten with the place.