Strange as it may seem, one of the drivers behind my
selection of beers this Christmas, or at least the order in which the beers
were drunk, has been available fridge space. This may seem a little strange,
especially where ales are concerned, as surely top-fermented beers are not
supposed to be served cold? Perhaps not, but as
those vintage Foster's ads famously said, "Well, you wouldn't want a warm beer would you?".
The temperature at which English ale was traditionally
served was a long standing source of both amusement and frustration to visitors
to these shores. With most of the world used to lager-style beers,
traditionally served at significantly lower temperatures than the "cellar
temperatures" normal in these islands, it is perhaps easy to understand why
tourists would be tempted to complain.
Times change of course, and as Brits began to travel more,
and developed a taste for "bottom-fermented beers", they too acquired a taste for cooler beers and started to demand
them when they returned home.
We're all familiar with the rise of lager in the British
Isles, from a beer enjoyed by a tiny minority during the early 1960's, to the
most popular style of beer a couple of decades later. The rise in lager's
popularity was said to have been helped by a series of particularly hot
summers, when a cold beer would have been especially welcome, and lager, of
course, is always served chilled.
It was probably around this time that a feature known as the
"cold shelf" first appeared behind the bars of many UK
pubs. This was a refrigerated shelf used to keep bottles cool. Such shelves
were commonplace for a while, but were eventually superseded by the chill
cabinets and glass-fronted coolers which are such a feature of pubs today.
The growing popularity of chilled bottled beers was mirrored
by the use of chillers for the dispense of keg-type beers, and of course
lagers. Cask-beer (real ale ) on the other hand, had none of this and devotees
had to make do with a pint served at "cellar temperature". This was
fine during the cooler months of the year, but during the summer a warm and, by
association, insipid pint was often the
order of the day.
A number of solutions
to this problem were found, starting with chiller units for pub cellars.
These were heat-exchangers, similar to air-conditioning units, which control
the temperature, and often the humidity in the cellar. Cellar cooling was a
great step forward and resulted in a huge improvement in the keeping qualities
of cask beer. The resultant lower temperature at which the beer was served, was
also welcomed by many customers; but not all.
There were rumblings from within CAMRA that "real
ale" was being served at too cool a temperature. The low temperatures were
masking the subtle flavours associated with cask beer, resulting in a pint
which was bland and tasteless. This may have been true to a point, but was probably
due to licensees being over-zealous with the cellar thermostat, rather than
inherent problems with the system itself.
Over-chilled cask ale was a problem long before
cellar-cooling was ever heard of, and I can remember the “joys” of
drinking beer in the middle of several
particularly harsh winters. The pints
served in some pubs were nearly as cold as the ice and snow outside, and
certainly rattled ones teeth! One Tonbridge pub of my acquaintance, famously took to giving customer’s pints a
quick 30 second zap in the microwave, in order to restore the beer to a more
palatable temperature.
These days, many pubs serve beer which is chilled at the
point of dispense, and providing the temperature is properly regulated, this is
to be welcomed. Another positive development is the use of beer lines with a
narrow bore, as it means there is less beer sitting in the lines between
sessions, and less chance of this beer becoming warm. The introduction of
beer-engines with a quarter of a pint pull, again lowers the chance of
customers being served a warm pint.
The main consequence of all this is customers have gradually
become use to a cooler pint, and I am no exception. Years ago I wouldn't have
dreamt of sticking a bottle of ale in the fridge for any length of time, whereas nowadays I much prefer my bitters and
pale ales to be chilled, in the same manner as a lager. I even prefer darker
beers, such as porters and stouts to be served cool; but it is important here
to distinguish between cool and chilled (cold).
There are various guidelines and recommendations to the best
temperatures for the dispense of different styles of beer. The ones I have
reproduced below are from the US,
so they may appear a little on the cool side:
Mass market lagers 2–4°C; Czech and German Pilsners, Bavarian Helles, wheat beers, Kölsch. 4–7°C; IPAs, American pale ales, porters, and most
stouts 7–10°C; Belgian ales, sour ales, Bocks, English bitters and milds 10–13°C.
In order to
experience all the aromas and tastes that the brewer has carefully crafted into
the beer, cask ale does need to be dispensed at the correct temperature. If the beer is too warm
unpleasant and unplanned aromas will be given off, too cold and the clean,
fresh, vibrant tastes will be lost.
Cask Marque and most brewers, recommend between 11 – 13°C, with the former organisation working to
a range of 10-14°C, when carrying out its inspections; thereby allowing a little leeway.
Even
lagers should not be served too cold, and despite the appeal of an ice cold beer,
lager should actually be served at a warmer temperature than you might imagine.
Pilsner Urquell, for example, recommend serving their classic “original”
Pilsner at 7 - 8°C, and I have seen this temperature
displayed on a monitor, in the enormous beer-hall, beneath the brewery, in
Pilsen.
There may be a reason then for mass market lagers being served at just 2–4°C, and that reason is to disguise their lack of
taste. So were the Foster's ads correct, or were they just trying to put across the macho
Australian image typically associated with the beer?
Intriguingly the answer is both yes and no; as whilst
no-one in their right mind would want a warm beer, one which is cold enough to
set your teeth on edge is equally undesirable. As we have seen, the temperature
at which beer is served is very much style dependent and whilst good pubs and
bars know this, and use it to their customer’s advantage, there are plenty who
unfortunately do not.
If this is the case, perhaps more of us should carry a
digital thermometer around with us; as one well-known beer blogger is reported
as doing!!