In previous years the third weekend of September has seen me visiting the Canterbury Food & Drink Festival, in order to sample some of the Kentish Green Hop Beers on sale there. A group of friends (the same crowd who have attended for the past few years), went along along today, and following a day of warm sunshine, I wish now I had joined them. However, with the need to clear my desk before going away, and also not wishing to use up too much annual leave, I reluctantly went into work. You will therefore have to read about Nuremberg, instead.
I have been to Nuremberg several times. Most of these visits were when I was passing through, as I have used the city’s airport as a convenient gateway to several destinations in Germany; most notably Bamberg, but also Forchheim and Regensburg. I have also visited Nuremberg’s famous Christmas Market, whilst on a coach tour.
My visit at the beginning of June 2015 though was the first time I had actually stayed in the city, and I have to report that I really liked what I saw. My family-run hotel was conveniently situated just a short walk away from the Hauptmarkt and just slightly further from the massive Imperial Castle which towers over the city. The latter, of course, was the venue for the Fränkisches Bierfest; which was the main reason for my visit to Nuremberg.
The weather was fine throughout my stay, with plenty of sunshine and temperatures peaking at around 30˚ on the Saturday. Like most German cities, Nuremberg has a fully-integrated public transport system, meaning that with a valid ticket it is possible to transfer easily between trains (both over-ground and underground), buses and trams. Day tickets are available, covering several different zones which radiate out from the city centre.

I have walked along the north-west section, and there are two massive stone walls separated by a deep and wide ditch. I am not sure if this would have been filled with water during the medieval period, but the defences would have been sufficient to deter even the most determined of invaders. The inner section of wall is covered in places, to provide shelter for the defenders. A number of the old city gates remain, and these are fortified with various towers etc.
After the war, much of the old city was rebuilt in a modernised version of the original style, with the most important buildings re-built true to the originals, but walking about it is still possible to spot the original medieval buildings which survived the raid.
I have only drunk in a handful of Nuremberg’s pubs, and on my most recent trip, only one. I had singled out a pub called Hutt’n as the ideal place for a meal plus a few drinks on my first evening in the city. Not only did the pub offer one of the best ranges of beer in town, but the menu also looked enticing. The first thing I discovered was Hutt’n has moved to larger premises, near to the castle. The second though was it was absolutely packed; both inside and out, so there was no chance of a table. Not to worry, I wandered along to the beer festival instead.
Although perhaps not quite as smoky as that of Schlenkerla, the most famous and best known Rauchbier, the example from Fischer still packed in plenty of smokiness and certainly hit the spot so far as I was concerned. It was good sitting there under the shady umbrella watching the world go by, and seeing people struggling up the hill in the 30˚ temperatures, but tempted as I was to stop for another, I had a potentially heavy afternoon's supping ahead of me, so decided to call it a day.

You can read about my experiences of the festival here, but as it happened Hutt’n was the only Nuremberg pub I visited on that trip. The rest of my drinking took place at the festival, in Bamberg or as part of the excellent tour of some of Franconia’s finest Bierkellers which Erlangernick took me on.
It was too cold to spend time walking around the stalls, so I headed up the hill to the Schwarzer Bauer, which is the tap for the tiny Altstadthof Brauerei next door. It was nice and cosy inside the pub, and after enjoying a couple of mugs of the house-brewed beer, I was loath to step back out into the cold. However, I wanted to see Nuremberg's magnificent Imperial Castle, and can report that this massive structure, is well worth visiting.

Gasthaus Schranke now appears to be owned by Augustiner of Munich, but 10 years ago it sold, amongst other beers, Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier from Bamberg. Despite having enjoyed this magnificent "smoke beer", earlier in the day, at the Schlenkerla Tavern, in Bamberg itself, I just had to have one last glass, before rushing back to board the coach.
It seemed a fitting way to end this whistle-stop tour of Bavaria's second largest city.