Continuing the narrative from last
Saturday’s walk along the
North Down’s Way, we
were reluctant to
leave our comfortable vantage point at the
Wrong Turn, but with a lengthy walk
ahead of us we decided we ought to press on. Our route took us through the tiny village of
Barfrestone, with its picturesque thatched cottages and
12th Century Church of Saint Nicholas Church; the second oldest
Norman church in the UK, before heading out into the open countryside.
We then passed through the much larger village of
Eythorne
which is only about a mile from the long closed
Tilmanstone Colliery; one of the
four main pits of the former
Kent
coalfield. Besides the church and the village shop, Eythorne still has a
pub - the
Crown, although the former
White Horse is now a
bed-and-breakfast establishment.
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Eythorne station - EKR |
On our way out of the village, we passed one
of the restored stations of the
East Kent Railway (EKR). This was a
light railway, constructed between 1911 and 1917, in order to serve the Kent
Coalfield. We had noticed another former station at
Shepherdswell,
close to where the
EKR once connected with the mainline railway. Today, the
EKR is a
heritage railway, operated by volunteers.
After leaving Eythorne our walk took us through an area of
woodland, before leading us up through fields of wheat, onto a ridge. We then
passed into parkland characterised by some of the largest sweet chestnut trees
that any of us had ever seen. The park forms the surroundings to Waldershare
House, an impressive and attractive Georgian mansion which dates from 1712. Looking at some of these magnificent trees it
was impossible not to admire the vision of the men who planned and set out
these sweeping landscapes two centuries ago, even though they knew they would
not come to maturity in their lifetime, or even their grandchildren’s lifetime!
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Ancient yew tree |
We then made our way down from the ridge and out of the
landscaped parkland, passing through the churchyard of All Saints, Waldershare. The church is no longer used for regular worship, and is in the care of
the Churches Conservation Trust, but I imagine that at one time, it would have
been used by estate workers from the big-house. As is often the case with
churchyards, there was a magnificent yew tree growing there, quite close to the
church. Because of its massive girth, one of my companions reckoned the tree
could be over a thousand years old!
After crossing the busy A256 by mean of a road bridge, we passed
through the small village of Ashley;
a settlement which seemed devoid of anything apart from bungalows. We then
turned off down a grassy track and headed off in a southerly direction with the
aim of reaching Dover some time
between 6.30 and 7pm.
This is where the walk became more of a route-march, and
where it gradually became lass and less enjoyable. The countryside was pleasant
enough; alternating between open fields and wooded areas, but we knew that
fairly soon we would come to the main A2 trunk road, where the NDW makes a
lengthy diversion in order to find a suitable crossing point.
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What does the lower sign designate? |
This was also where our party became separated, as the two
stronger walkers were striding on ahead, leaving me and my friend Don, further
and further behind. Now I’m sure Don could have kept up with the other two, but
he very kindly hung back in order to keep me company, and this was just as well
as I was running out of steam.
We walked the final three mile stretch into Dover at a much
reduced pace, but fortunately most of the route was now along paved roads and
downhill, eventually becoming more and more built up.
The agreed plan had been to make for the Thirsty Scarecrow
micro-pub, at the top end of the High Street, before continuing on to another
micro in the form of The Lanes. Don and I however, decided to head straight for
the latter, as we knew it was only five minutes walk away from Dover Priory
station and our train home. We sent a text to the advance party telling them of
our intentions, and pressed on through a rather nice residential area of the
town.
By this time my knees and the tops of my thighs were telling
me to stop and rest, but with the town centre in sight we carried on,
eventually reaching The Lanes just before 7pm.
This was my first visit to this excellent micro-pub, situated on a street
corner, on a side road, just off the pedestrianised town centre. It is carpeted
throughout and comfortably furnished with a mix of high tables and stools, plus
settees and low tables.
The pub is named after its owners
Keith and Debbie
Lane, who opened the venue in
December 2014. The
couple provide a warm and friendly welcome to all who step inside, and I was
certainly glad of a place to sit down and rest my weary feet and enjoy a beer
or two. The pub offers up to five cask ales from microbreweries (two from Kent)
along with around ten ciders. All are served on gravity dispense from a
temperature controlled cellar room complete with its own viewing window in the
bar.
The Lanes makes a feature of stocking all that is good with Kentish ales,
ciders, wines and mead, along with soft drinks from local producers. The pub
also stocks a range of speciality gins.
The Lanes was voted
Pub of the Year
2017, by the local
CAMRA Branch (Dover,
Deal & Sandwich), and has also gone on to win
East Kent Pub of the Year as
well. It will now go head to head against the winner for
West Kent
– the Flowerpot in Maidstone.
Landlady Debbie, guided us to one of the comfortable sofas, although I opted
for the adjacent, slightly higher arm chair. A beer was definitely in order, so
Don and both I went for the
Gadd’s No. 5, from
Ramsgate Brewery. Not long
after, the other two members of our party arrived, having enjoyed a couple of
ciders at the
Thirsty Scarecrow, on the way into town.
The Scarecrow is unusual,
certainly in this part of the country, because it specialises in cider, rather
than beer. Up to 20 ciders are stocked, with just one or two casks of ale to
please beer lovers.
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A well-earned pint |
We stayed at
The Lanes for a couple of hours, but the strange thing was none
of us drank that much. I think we all pretty exhausted, and in my case
suffering the effects of too much sun. This was despite wearing a sun hat and
slapping on plenty of sunscreen.
I remained with the
Gadd’s for my second pint, this time the summer-themed
She
Sells Sea Shells - a lovely pale and well-hopped beer, which shows off all that
is good about a Kentish summer, spent by the sea. I removed my boots (but not
my socks!),
allowing the air to get to
my feet. I felt much better by the time we left, and had no trouble in walking
back to the station, or indeed walking the mile or so back to my house, once we arrived back in
Tonbridge.
So all in all, a good day’s walking in a part of
Kent
I am not at all familiar with, combined with some excellent beers in two really
good micro-pubs. The fact that one was rural and virtually in the middle of
nowhere, whilst the other could not have been more urban in its location,
proved once again that it’s the pub and the people who are important, and
not its actual location; although the latter obviously plays a part.
As for
"White Cliffs Country", this is the name given by the
local tourist authority for the area which encompasses
Dover,
Deal and Sandwich. It is a unique place where coast
meets country, beauty meets history and
England
meets the
Continent.
We obviously, only scratched the surface of this corner of
East
Kent, and it is an area which is definitely worth a visit and
spending more time in.