Åndalsnes and the Golden Train

The second port of call on our Norwegian adventure, was the small, and attractive settlement of Åndalsnes, located at the mouth of the river Rauma, on the shores of Romsdalsfjord. The village is approximately 12 hours sailing from Ålesund, so after an early evening departure from the latter, the following morning saw our cruise ship, Ambience, berthed in the calm and reflective waters of the fjord.

The town has a population of just under 2,500 persons in an attractive setting close the end of field small settlement and it is visited every year by many cruise ships, including our own vessel, Ambience. Its harbour, which is within easy walking distance of the moorings, is called "Tindekaia", and looks out across to the small town of Åndalsnes itself.

Åndalsnes is known as the mountaineering capital of Norway, and lies at the start of the Rauma Railway, described as "one of Europe’s most scenic train journeys". The line is the home of the famous "Golden Train", which takes passengers on an unforgettable journey through beautiful Romsdalen, as it moves along the Rauma Railway. On the way it passes Europe’s largest vertical rock face, where the sheer and intimidating 1,100 metre-high Trollveggen (Troll Wall), acts as a magnet for sightseers and climbing enthusiasts alike.

The Golden Train is named after the secret mission undertaken by the Norwegian government during World War II, when the line was used to transport the country’s gold reserves as part of efforts to safeguard these national assets from the German occupiers. The gold was disguised as mundane cargo, and secret routes were used to evade enemy patrols and checkpoints.

 Norwegian resistance fighters played a crucial role in facilitating this secret operation, which saw the gold travelling down the train-line to Åndalsnes, and then on to safer overseas destinations, including such as the United Kingdom, and Canada. The successful evacuation and safeguarding of the nation’s gold reserves held significant symbolic importance for the Norwegian government plus its people and demonstrated resilience against the German invasion. It also helped to maintain Norway's financial sovereignty during the occupation.

The journey followed by the Golden Train is a round trip from Åndalsnes to Bjorli, which allows travellers to experience stunning views of Norway's majestic landscapes. These include the emerald, green Rauma river, the aforementioned Troll Wall, the Kylling Bridge, and the impressive Verma Waterfall. A short break at Bjorli train station, which is the last stop on the line, allows travellers to disembark from the train and breathe in the fresh mountain air, while experiencing a part of the Raumabahn's history up close. Passengers then rejoin the train for its journey back to Åndalsnes. The entire round trip takes about 2½ hours and having written those words I’m wishing now that we had booked tickets for this fascinating ride.

Although we didn't ride on the train, Åndalsnes itself was a real gem in a fantastic setting. The weather was kind, in spite of a slight chill in the air, the only disappointment being the town’s single pub was closed. It was Sunday afternoon, and the place was also closed on Mondays as well - shades of back home! We visited as couple of shops before finding a nice coffee shop, attached to a local bakers, and sitting at one of the outside table, whilst watching the world go by, was a nice way to while away the time. Some children nearby were attempting to catch crabs from the jetty, using a hand-line, an activity both Eileen and I were familiar with from our own childhood.

Before returning to the ship, we watched the Golden Train departing from Åndalsnes, which again left me wishing that I’d booked a ticket on this legendary service. Perhaps I should have carried out a little more research prior to embarking on this cruise, but Hey-Ho! An overnight voyage, further up the Norwegian coast, saw Ambience docking at the city of Trondheim, a city on the Trondheim Fjord, in central Norway.

Dating back to the 11th century, Trondheim is the third most populous municipality in Norway and is the fourth largest urban area in the country. Trondheim is a major land and sea transport link that connects the more densely settled south with the far-northern regions of the country. The city is also a major centre for manufacturing, plus food processing area. It is also home to a number of pubs, one of which turned out to be the surprise find of the holiday, as we shall discover in the nest post.