Rotherfield, at last

On Friday, I finally crossed Rotherfield off from my list of pub places to visit. This followed one reconnaissance visit, whilst on the return journey of a bus trip to neighbouring Mayfield, and then a failed attempt, two weeks later as part of a CAMRA bus outing. The latter was the result of the dreaded, “essential” roadworks – notice how such disruptive activities are always “essential” but as I wrote in a blog post at the time, “the driver advised that due to road works, narrow country lanes, and a not quite so narrow bus, the 51 would not be calling at Rotherfield until the works were finished.”

So, with Mrs PBT’s up to her arms, in a pile of VAT returns for her clients in the construction industry, I was free to go off exploring, despite volunteering to make a start on the next kitchen-refurb project. My bus journey from Tunbridge Wells, still wasn’t all plain sailing, as services were running late due to, you guessed it, yet more roadworks. This time it was the Pantiles area of the town where the first holdup occurred, followed by yet more holes in the road and more temporary traffic lights causing mayhem on both sides of Frant – a two-pub village on the A267. Consequently, I arrived in Rotherfield some 25 minutes later than I should have done.

No matter, I was finally in the village, and there were two pubs waiting for me to walk through their doors and sample their wares. Before describing the pubs, here’s some background information about the village. Rotherfield was originally a Saxon settlement in an area generally covered with oak forest. It stands on high ground, surrounded by areas of cleared woodland, and the hill on which the village stands is the source of the River Rother, which drains much of East Sussex. The river bubbles up from a spring, before commencing a 30-mile journey along the Kent-Sussex border to the sea at Rye Harbour.

Rotherfield is one of the largest parishes in East Sussex and encompasses the neighbouring villages of Mark Cross and Eridge. In modern times it has been eclipsed in size and importance by the neighbouring settlement of Crowborough, leaving Rotherfield as something of a backwater. Today the village has a population of 1,222 persons and is generally considered a nice location to live. From personal observation, Rotherfield seems much more workaday than nearby Mayfield, which I visited back in August. The latter seems to be a place where plenty of money abounds, giving it a more upmarket feel. I also wrote, following my late summer visit, that the Mayfield had a slight “alternative” feel to it.

None of this was evident on a cold, but bright November day, as I walked up the hill from the bus stop, into the centre of Rotherfield, to the T-junction at the top of the hill separates the village's two remaining pubs. These are the slightly upmarket Kings Arms to the left, and the more down to earth, Catts Inn to the right. I opted for the latter hostelry to begin with, in the knowledge that this “wet-led” pub, would provide that welcoming, first pint. I could then gravitate to the Kings Arms for a second pint, plus a bite to eat.

The Catts Inn is a community village local, with a quiet bar at the front, for conversation and general socialising, plus a separate games and TV room at the rear. It was bought by a family-owned, independent pub company in 2019 from Enterprise Inns, and being free from the constraints of this large pub chain, is now free to stock a range of beers to suit. Having said that, Harvey’s Best was the only cask option available at the time of my visit, although it was in excellent form. The building is said to date from 1741, and its bare wooden floors, plus plain unadorned walls, mark it out as a pub of character. As mentioned above, food is no longer available at the Catts Inn, but customers are encouraged to order in take away food when plates, cutlery, etc will be provided.

There was just one other customer sitting at the bar, when I entered the bar, but after I’d ordered my pint, of Sussex Best, and inquired about bus times with Lee the barman– see photo at top, I was drawn into conversation with the pair, who wanted to know (in a friendly sort of way), what had brought me to Rotherfield, and the Catts Inn. I explained that I was semi-retired and enjoyed the occasional bus trip out to hard to get to pubs. Satisfied that my intentions were honest and that I wasn’t there to steal their wives and daughters, the conversation opened up. The chap sitting at the bar had lived in the village all his life, and had attended the nearby, prestigious Matfield College, as a daybed. His father had been the village butcher, and whilst there are still a number of shops in Rotherfield, including the village stores, with its post office, plus the inevitable antiques shop, commercial activity has declined, as in so many rural settlements.

I mentioned that I was after something to eat, so was advised to head over to the Kings Arms, before the pub stopped taking food orders at 2pm. It seemed that a healthy relationship exists between the two pubs, which is good.  There used to be a third pub in Rotherfield, called the George, but this 700-year-old pub closed its doors for the last time in 1998, and is now a private residence. Also closed, but not in the village itself, is the quirky sounding, Bicycle Arms, at Argos Hill, a mile or so to the south of Rotherfield.  Fortunately, the Kings Arms is still trading, and it was literally a short hop across the road to this 17^th Century former coaching inn, but before departing the Catts, my new-found friend at the bar, insisted on taking a photo of me, on my own phone. It’s reproduced at the top of this post.

After pushing open the heavy wooden entrance door to the Kings Arms, I encountered a heavy curtain, suspended from a circular rail. Obviously designed to keep out the cold, the curtain reminded me of pubs in the Czech Republic and Bavaria, where freezing-cold winters are the norm, and such protections against icy draughts are essential. The pub’s heavily beamed ceilings, walls of exposed brick, and open hearth, complete with a blazing log fire, were just what I expected. The beer offering was also welcoming with Dark Star Hophead, and Long Man Long Blonde complementing the ubiquitous Harvey’s Best. I went for the Long Blonde, which was pale, cool and refreshing, although perhaps not the ideal beer for a cold winter’s day.

Conscious that the kitchen might soon be closing I ordered myself a BLT baguette. It arrived with the seemingly obligatory chips, but with nice fresh, crusty bread, bacon that was well-smoked and equally crisp, it was a welcome, but not too filling spot of lunch. The young couple behind the bar were professional and engaging, and their efforts were seemingly appreciated by the handful of diners in the pub. There is a larger room, behind the serving area, but I didn’t explore further, as I was keeping an eye on the time. The No. 51 bus operates an hourly service, and I didn’t want to miss the next departure to Tunbridge Wells. Fortunately, the Stagecoach website gives real time departure information, so I was able to finish my food and drink and walk down to the bus stop in sufficient time for the 14:40 departure. 

My route to the bus stop took me through the extensive terrace and garden area at the rear of the Kings Arms. With its views over the High Weald, it’s the perfect spot for al-fresco dining during the summer months, and there’s even an outside kitchen, bar and toilets - points worth remembering for future visits. So, that’s another High Weald village and it pubs ticked off, although I'd like a return visit to explore Rotherfield a bit more thoroughly. But where to next?