Fortunately, planned industrial action by TFL workers was
called off, so there were no issues travelling between the two London terminals
via the Bakerloo line, and after Oxford Circus I even got a seat. There was a
bit of time to kill at Paddington, so I inquired about switching my ticket to
an earlier train. The answer was I could do so, but it would incur a rather
costly surcharge. I dropped the idea, grabbed a cup of coffee and just enjoyed
sitting there, observing the comings and goings that typify a busy railway
station. All the time I was keeping an eye on the nearby departure board,
waiting for the departure platform of the 10:30 train to Bath to be indicated
on the board. Once on board there were plenty of seats to choose from, despite
having reserved a seat it wasn't really necessary. As it happened someone was
sitting in the actual seat, I'd reserved but as there was plenty of room
opposite, I didn't say anything and settled down to enjoy the journey to Bath.
A
fact here for train buffs, the GWR service on this part of the network, was bimodal,
as although it was powered by over-head electrified wires from Paddington for
the majority of the journey, the train switched to diesel power, once we’d
arrived at Chippenham. You could tell by the noise, and the vibration. This
change in power source surprised me, as I’d assumed the GWR mainline had been
electrified all the way to Bristol and beyond. Talking to former rail workers (Jon & Tracey), who were on the trip shed, some light
on this anomaly – difficulties in running power cables through the tunnels into
Bristol Temple Meads. Despite these anomalies the train pulled into Bath Spa
station on time, which allowed sufficient time to walk to the first pub on the
itinerary, whilst stopping to photograph those city landmarks that I’d missed
from the 2022 trip, as it was pouring down with rain on that occasion. .
I then found my way to the cosy snug bar at the front, and it was there that I found the initial three members of the party – Stafford Paul, in his trademark, shirtsleeves attire, Jon Benger plus his wife Tracey. Soon after we were joined by Will, aka Sheffield Hatter. The arrival of Retired Martin, 15 minutes or so later, completed the group for the initial part of the tour, although our numbers were swelled further by the appearance of Mrs RM, when we reached the Bell, the last pub on the official list, and the penultimate one on the revised tour.
With an important work meeting the following morning I had to pace myself, which was difficult given the impressive beer section. The pale-coloured, and well-hopped, Pitchfork, an old favourite from 20 or so years ago, certainly did the trick, although if we had stayed a little longer at the Old Green Tree, I would probably have succumbed to a swift half of Old Slug Porter – for old times sake. Incidentally, Wednesday mornings SWOT analysis meeting dragged on for three hours, so it was just as well that I took things easy, in Bath! Next up was the Raven, a famous Bath institution, housed in a multi room building, spread out over three different levels. Our group had made a brief visit to the Raven, 18 months previously, towards the end of our March 2022 tour, but this time around the pub was our almost universally agreed designated lunch stop, something I will jokingly take credit for. I said, “almost universally”, because Will used the lunch break to take a bus trip out to the famous Larkhall Inn, a pub with a two-star listing on CAMRA’s National Heritage register. The Raven proved a wise choice for the rest of us, with all five of us enjoying an excellent meat pie with mash and veg. I was under the slightly naïve impression that the pies were made on the premises, but Martin thought (correctly as it turned out) that the pies at the Raven are bought in from Bristol-based, Pieminister Pies. Whatever its source, my steak and Raven Ale Pie was excellent, and whilst most of us chose the same option, Stafford Paul went for the classic beef and ale, Raven Stew, which was reported as equally good. There was a nice and easy-going atmosphere at the Raven, with a largely student and young person’s crowd. That said, us codgers certainly didn’t feel out of place, and, unlike our previous visit, which admittedly took place on a Friday evening, when people were out celebrating the end of the week, there were plenty of seats, as well as room to move around. The only caution I would use, is the old wooden, Victorian staircases are both steep and narrow, so remember that when heading down to the basement toilets. Reluctantly, we bade farewell to the Raven, and wandered the short distance around the corner, to pub No. 3, The Salamander, where Will was waiting for us, outside. The Salamander is a Bath Ales pub - a brewery that has some sort of tie-up with St Austell, and this was evident from the line-up on the bar – three from St Austell (Proper Job, Autumn Bronze and Anthem). Bath Ales also had two hand pulls, but they were both for the same beer, the ubiquitous Gem. I went for the Anthem, which was a new one for me, a 3.8% English Pale Ale, smooth and hoppy but, as Will, who kindly bought me a half of this beer found out, it was priced at £6.50 for two halves!The sole server behind the bar also broke off midway though serving us, to convey a plate of food to a group seated elsewhere in the pub – an act which resulted in a rebuke from Will, on one of the online beer and pub forums. It’s not good asking me which one, but Will was well within his rights to remark on this very strange behaviour. The Salamander was pleasant enough, and quite cosy, but Martin summed the place up nicely, as “a small-town pub running on upmarket food trade.” So, a disappointment, as was pub No.5, but you will have to wait for the next installment to find out what it was about the Curfew, a former Wadworth pub that didn’t really float my boat.
13 comments:
Great write up. Love when you guys write up the same visits.
Paul,
Your Kentish ticket for London will be the same as my London NorthWestern ones for London later this week ( £14.60 return ) where I’ve never thought “No specific seat reserved” negates “Specified train”.
As for “a bit of time to kill at Paddington” on the way to Bath I had a hundred minutes spare which I well used in the Monkey Puzzle and the Victoria.
Before the 10:30 train to Bath you could have had a pint of ESB, or maybe a Vintage Ale, in the Mad Bishop and Bear rather than just a coffee.
It’s a shame you missed the Huntsman where the Pride was drinking well despite it being the first one of the day and the last one out of the cask.
Yes, the Raven’s stew was very good, a wise choice I realised on seeing pies on top of, rather than besides, the mashed potato.
Great reading this, Paul. We should compare notes on trains and tubes. I also took a deserted Bakerloo carriage to Paddington, and was hanging about there weighing up coffee v beer just before your 10:30 ish train.
The departure board for my 11::00 train had no platform number allocated till 10:58, had only 2 working ticket barriers, but somehow left at exactly 11:02, so empty was it.
I’m pleased you enjoyed the write-up, Dave. I’ve got quite a bit of catching up to do regarding the second instalment, following the weekend’s marathon kitchen refurbishment.
Paul, whilst in Bath last week, Jon and Tracey were trying to explain to me, the machinations of the advanced ticketing system, although I still can’t work out why “specified train” applies to what, effectively is an outer suburban, commuter route. As for a pre-train beer, I was trying to restrict my intake, in view of the busy workday ahead of me on Wednesday.
I walked past the Huntsman, after leaving the station, and its name brought back memories of its former owners, Eldridge Pope. This was confirmed to me by the local, Somerset contingent, as I thought it was the pub where I enjoyed a pint of Royal Oak, during a visit to Bath, many years ago.
Paul,
Jon and Tracey will know much better than me, especially Tracey who worked in Bath ticket Office ( and sold me a Day Return to Bristol five years ago ), but it's complicated with all sorts of anomalies. Worst I've experienced this year is LNER with their so called "Simpler Fares" which are "Advance" available up to five minutes before departure, "70 min Flex" or "Anytime", no Day Return and complicated and less flexible and dearer now. No matter whether it's "an outer suburban, commuter route" or any other, I take “specified train” to mean the one whose date and departure time are printed on the ticket. I find most guards to be very helpful but would avoid getting on a different train for fear of him or her having got out of the wrong side of bed that morning and issuing me with a £100 penalty fare - which would take my beer money for the day !
Martin, having to sprint, to catch one’s train, seems to be the new sport at many of the major London termini. Euston is the worst, and also the worst station as well. The sooner the powers that be get on with building the new one, the better!
I know what you mean Paul about placing yourself at the mercy of a grumpy ticket inspector, even though most are very helpful – as you rightfully point out.
The problem seems to be the connection times, allocated by the ticketing system, especially when purchased online, whilst allowing some leeway, don’t take account of hold-ups and disruptions that are more common than you might think. The number of times I’ve sat on a train, stuck at a red signal outside London Bridge, are both numerous and frustrating, especially when there’s a connection to make. Hence my willingness to chance my arm, so to speak, by taking an earlier train, up to London.
Paul,
I have to take things easy at my age and so disregard "connection times" whether or not I have booked "Advance" tickets which I usually do when travelling a distance.
Last week Monday was for travelling to Bath ( and having a couple of pints with Will ) and Thursday was for travelling home from Swanage. Good pubs near the mainline stations means time is never wasted in London.
I won't be rushing to and from Smithfield on Thursday for the "Pub Research Trip" organised organised on that Discourse and £78 for Off-Peak Advance tickets and a bed for two nights isn't a lot more than Peak tickets on the day would be.
Just curious. How many pints in a year do you men drink? It can cause health issues you know. You must like trains. I find they are a bit crummy, like these old pubs.
Made a brief stop at the NI listed, Hand & Sheers in Smithfield, earlier today. A marvelous, multi-room pub, untouched by time, and Draught Bass on tap, as well.
Paul, three days ago the Landlord was drinking well on handpump.
We each drink as many pints in a year as is physically possible to save pubs, but it doesn't seem to be working.
Post a Comment