In March 2020 I traveled to the Midland town of Burton on Trent to join up with some fellow beer enthusiasts on what was known as a “Proper Day Out.” It was only the second such outing I’d attended at the time, but as events were soon to prove, it was my last pub crawl, and trip away from my Kentish home, for many months.
Burton of course is often referred to as the home of British brewing, with the town gaining its fame from the quality of the local water. Being rich in naturally occurring calcium sulphate, otherwise known as gypsum, Burton water enabled the production of clear and sparkling pale ales, of the highest quality, and in large quantities. Before it became possible to artificially adjust brewing water (or “liquor” as brewers prefer to call it), brewing companies from other parts of the United Kingdom set up shop in Burton, in order to take advantage of the water.
They were trying to emulate two of the most famous Burton brewers, namely Bass and Co, plus Samuel Allsopp. The former, at one time were the largest brewing company in the world., whilst the other firm ran them a close second. Both companies were pioneers in the production and subsequent export of pale ales to India, where the style soon became known as India Pale Ale.
The reason for that Proper Day Out, was to sample Burton’s most famous product in the form of Draught Bass - a beer that was once the UK’s biggest selling cask ale, and a survivor from the glory days of the 19th Century. With some of the town’s best pubs at our disposal we really were spoiled for choice, and what’s more we were blessed with a glorious sunny day, as well. The sunshine was especially welcome after weeks of torrential rain and it certainly helped lighten everyone’s’ mood. What we didn't realise was that this happy and carefree state of mind would not last, because looming large and threatening on the horizon, was the start of the most serious global pandemic since the so-called Spanish Influenza of 1919. Looking back some clues were already there. Italy had been particularly badly affected as the virus that caused the disease known as Covid-19, spread steadily westward from its origin in the Wuhan province of China. Even then, few of us realised how serious this condition would become, and that in just a few short weeks, we would all be incarcerated in our homes. The threat from this novel corona virus was in the back of my mind, as I journeyed to Burton, by train, from my home in Tonbridge. That morning, on the underground traveling between Charing Cross and Marylebone, I noticed one or two people wearing masks, but at the time I wasn't going to let any pessimism spoil my day out, and I'm sure my companions all felt the same. You can read all about our day out by clicking on the following link, but for now I want to concentrate on a very special bottle of beer that I purchased on that day in Burton. In view of the distances that some of us had traveled, we didn’t meet up until midday, and after enjoying some Draught Bass at the Devonshire Arms, we headed off for a spot of lunch. The choice of somewhere to eat, for several of us was, the National Brewery Centre & Museum, formerly known as the Bass Museum of Brewing. We called in at the Brewery Tap, attached to the NBC, where along with a selection of tasty and well-presented food (a fish-finger sandwich for me), we enjoyed a couple of beers brewed at the NBC’s Heritage Brewery. As its name suggests, the brewery was set up to replicate old Bass and other former group company recipes, back when the NBC was operated by Bass. Along with the two draught beers I sampled – replicas of Charrington IPA and Oatmeal Stout, I also bought a bottle of “Czar’s P2 Imperial Stout.,” The latter is a recreation of a beer once brewed for export to Czarist Russia, where it was much appreciated by the imperial court.As I wrote at the time, being bottle-conditioned, and with a strength of 8.0%, it should last quite a while, so there was no need for me to open it any time soon. Then, when Coronavirus arrived on the scene, and we were all forced into lock-down, I decided not to open the bottle until the pandemic was over. I’m not sure whether Covid-19 is officially over, although I suspect not, but as just over two and a half years have passed, following that trip, I finally decided to crack that bottle open. It seemed an opportune time to sample the beer, especially as it was showing a best before date of October 2021, but despite the passing of 13 months since that date, the beer was fine.
It poured with a thick creamy head, and was packed full of rich dark roasted flavours, balanced by an intense hop bitterness. The long maturation period had mellowed the beer somewhat, but it remained well conditioned, with the 8% strength coming through, but without it being overpowering. There were certainly no signs of deterioration, despite this satisfying and enjoyable imperial stout being over a year passed its best before date.Sadly, that bottle of P2 Imperial Stout, might be the last available for some time, as the National Brewery Centre & Museum closed its doors to the public at the beginning of November. The reasons behind the closure are described in detail in this article by veteran beer writer, Roger Protz, but basically the museum’s lease has been terminated, by the site’s owners, global brewing giant, Molson Coors. Potentially, this move could also leave the Heritage Brewery looking for a new home as well, but that story will have to wait for another time, and for further clarification, before airing.
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