Red Lion re-visited

So finally we come to the legendary establishment that is the Red Lion at Snargate; a pub whose fame and reputation has spread far beyond the quaint corner of south-east Kent which is Romney Marsh.

I have written two previous posts about the pub, the most recent of which was in 2016, following the sad passing of long-serving landlady, Doris Jemison. You can read that post here. The post before that was written in 2010, and looking back I realised that was the last time I'd visited the Red Lion. Fortunately last Saturday's trip to Romney Marsh allowed me to make amends, and I'm pleased to report that little has changed at this unspoilt gem.

Before going any further it is worth trotting out a few excuses for leaving such a lengthy gap between visits, but the truth is a wonderful pub like the Red Lion is not the sort of place to drive to, (for obvious reasons). Equally, because of its isolated situation, it is not somewhere which is readily served by public transport,. However, with a little forethought and slightly more effort, it is quite possible to enjoy more than a few pints in the Red Lion without getting behind the wheel and breaking the law.

The Marsh-Link rail-line runs from Ashford, across Romney Marsh, down to Rye and eventually on to Hastings. I have walked to the Red Lion from both Hamstreet and Appledore stations; across country from the former and along the road from the latter.

However, the 30 minutes walk, from Appledore station, along the busy B2080, is not particularly recommended as at times it requires quick-witted action to avoid speeding motorists who seem to regard the road as a race track. An OS Map though, will allow the keen walker to take the longer, but far safer scenic cross-country route from Hamstreet station.

The Red Lion features on CAMRA's National Inventory of unspoilt Heritage Pubs, and is believed to date back to 1540. However, unlike many old pubs of a similar age, the inside has not been modified leaving a series of inter-connecting rooms. The walls are decorated with a series of original World War II posters (none of your fake "Keep Calm and Carry On" tat here), and other memorabilia.

Although there is a set of three hand pumps on the marble bar top, they have not been used for many years. Instead all beers are served direct from casks stillaged behind the bar. Local beers feature prominently on the menu, with Maidstone brewer's Goacher's being a firm favourite.

There were two Goacher's beers available last Saturday; Dark Mild and Imperial Stout and I can personally vouch that both were in good form. Doris's daughter Kate and her partner were behind the bar, and were pleased to see us. They'd been expecting our party of course, but I think one or two of the regulars were a little taken aback by  what looked like an invasion.

We spread ourselves out though, with most people decamping to the largest of the pub's three rooms, which is at the front of the building. A small group of us stayed close to the bar, swapping tales of previous visits. A couple of decades ago, several MMK CAMRA members had been involved with a Dad's Army re-enactment group, known as the "Barmy Army Film Club", and because of its 1940's appearance, the Red Lion had been used as a setting for a couple of the period films the club produced.

Mrs PBT's and I had a small role in the second film, and I remember turning up at the Red Lion, in full Home Guard costume, on a freezing cold winter's morning, having diced with death after walking from Appledore station. A dozen or so of the cast met at the pub for a rendezvous with a film crew from London Weekend  Television (remember them?), to shoot a few period scenes with presenter Danny Baker, who was then a reporter on the station's Six O'Clock Show.

After recording interviews, inside the pub, with some of the principal cast members, filming was due to move outside. The TV company had gone to the trouble of hiring the period butcher's van which belonged to Corporal Jones in the Dad's Army series, and this was to feature us lot getting into the back, complete with our de-activated Lee Enfield rifles, and re-enacting the part of 1940's Home Guardsmen.  

Unfortunately the day chosen by LWT for the filming, was the day that Margaret Thatcher decided to step down as Prime Minister. This was obviously a far bigger story than a group of CAMRA members, dressing up as members of the Home Guard. Much to his annoyance, the TV company despatched a fast car to collect Danny Baker and whisk him back to London, where they wanted him out on the streets, interviewing people about their reaction to the Thatcher resignation story.

I won't repeat his exact words, but Danny Baker was not at all pleased that national events had overtaken the fun he was having sinking a few pints at the Red Lion with the Barmy Army Film Club, whilst preparing to go out "on manoeuvres".

That little episode took place in November 1990, but standing at the very same spot in the bar the other Saturday, I'm certain that little has changed at the Red Lion over the past 28 years.

Saturday's visit wasn't solely one of nostalgia, as with new licensees in charge at the Red Lion, albeit from the same family, there is much to look forward to. The pub's exterior has been given a new coat of paint, the outside Gents now was a Perspex roof so you don't get wet whilst taking a pee, and  there is now running hot water and an electric hand-dryer.

There aren't many other changes though, as apart from crisps and nuts, the Red Lion still doesn't serve food. Doris was always quite happy for people to sit in the games room and eat their own sandwiches and in summer time, there was always the sheltered garden behind the pub. I didn't check, but I imagine this arrangement is still pretty much the case.

I'd like to think that I've sold the appeal of this unspoilt gem to you, and if I have, you are probably wanting to make a visit. The easiest way of course, is to drive there, but unless you have a willing, non-drinking driver, or are prepared to strictly limit your consumption, this is  not something I'd recommend.

Providing the weather is fair, and the going underfoot good, then public transport is your best bet. The No. 11 Stagecoach service from Ashford, will drop you at Brenzett, but this still involves a walk along the busy the busy B2080, which I mentioned earlier.

My preferred option would be to take the Marsh-Link  train from Ashford, leave the train at Hamstreet, and then head south and west of the village towards Warehorne. You can then strike out in a roughly southerly direction, across the fields to Snargate. Make sure you've got a decent, large-scale map with you, as I've ended up getting lost before.

Whichever way you choose, I'm certain you will enjoy your visit to the Red Lion, and the step back in time which goes with it. Make the most of it though, because as far as I am aware, there are no obvious successors for when Kate and her partner decide to call it a day.