Wadhurst to Tunbridge Wells on foot

On Sunday I took the opportunity to don my walking boots and head off into the clear blue yonder, for a walk in the beautiful Kent and Sussex countryside. I joined up with four friends who all live locally and three of whom are members of my local CAMRA branch.

The plan was to take the train from Tonbridge and alight four stops down the line, at Wadhurst. From there we would take a scenic walk back to Tunbridge Wells, along a number of rural footpaths, stopping off at a couple of pubs on the way.

This was the first ramble I’ve been on for some time, although to my credit I did a fair amount of walking whilst I was in the United States. During my six day stay at my sister’s, I accompanied my brother in law, on a three and a half mile walk every morning. There is a “country park” close to where they live, so every morning, after breakfast, the pair of us would head off to this attractive, wooded recreation area to do a circuit.

I was pleased to have kept this regime up for the duration of my stay, and whilst I have continued with my daily lunchtime walk (weekdays, at least), a mile and a quarter is substantially less than what I was doing in the US. It was good therefore to have the opportunity to be heading out on this ramble.

We caught the 11:10 train from Tonbridge and 20 minutes later were alighting at Wadhurst station, deep in the Sussex countryside. Our initial route took us through woodland, before opening out into some undulating countryside. This was home to several herds of cattle and the odd flock of sheep, but apart from the odd isolated settlement, we encountered very few humans along the way.

One and a half hours, and three and a half miles later, we walked into the hamlet of Bells Yew Green, home to Brecknock Arms. This small Harvey’s pub has long been a favourite amongst local branch members but has changed hands recently, following the departure of Sally and David Fawcett, who had ran the pub for the past four years.

We arrived just after 1pm, to find the pub very quiet, apart from a couple of families who seemed intent on allowing their children to run around inside. We escaped to the garden, where we sat out enjoying our beer in the mid-September sunshine.

Despite the lack of customers, the beer was on top form and I scored my pint of Sussex Best at 4.0 NBSS. According to my friends, the Hadlow IPA was also very good. Given the Brecknock’s  former reputation for good food, we were surprised not to see anyone eating there, which led us to wonder whether or not the pub has a chef at present.

We only stayed for the one pint, as there was still a fair amount of ground to cover between Bells Yew Green and  Tunbridge Wells.  Our route took us along the road at the side of the pub, towards the village of Frant; a distance of one and a half miles.

On the way, we passed the former brewery of George Ware & Son which is now divided up into a number of light industrial units, but still very much retains the appearance of a traditional, Victorian tower brewery. The brewery closed in 1950, following the acquisition of the company and its 16 pubs, by E & H Kelsey of Tunbridge Wells.

Frant is quite a large village with a substantial village green, which faces onto the main A267 Tunbridge Wells to Eastbourne road. Fronting onto the road and just to north of the

village centre, is the Abergavenny Arms Hotel. This 15^th Century, former coaching inn, is an attractive, part tile-hung building with a large and well-appointed bar which serves two large beamed rooms.

Both are primarily given over to dining, but one has an area for drinkers, with comfortable sofas and an open fire. There is also a smaller dining room that can be used for functions. At the front of the pub, there is an outside patio- type garden for use in warmer weather, and this is where we made ourselves comfortable.

Somewhat ironically, my wife and I had driven past the Abergavenny the previous weekend, on our way to Eastbourne. I remarked at time that it had been an age since I had last set foot inside the pub, and there I was, just a week later, enjoying a drink there. I have to say that despite the emphasis on food, I was impressed with this lovely old pub. The food looked and smelt good, and was being enjoyed by plenty of appreciative diners; unlike at the Brecknock, just down the road.

The beer was good too, with Long Man Blonde and Dark Star Hophead joining the ubiquitous Harvey’s Best. I went for the Long Man Blonde, awarding it a 3.5 NBSS. Two members of our party opted for the Hophead, and thought they detected a slight alteration in the taste of the beer, now that Fullers are brewing it. Some might argue this could have been pure imagination, but as seasoned Hophead aficionados, I am pretty certain my friends were correct in their judgement.

Again, we just stayed for the one pint, before leaving to walk back to Tunbridge  Wells. We skirted the village green, passing Frant’s other pub, the George, just before the  church. I don’t think I have been in this pub before, but from the this attractive white-painted building, looked quite busy from the outside. What surprised me the most was just how large a village Frant is, as I have only ever seen it from the main road.

After passing through the churchyard, we descended through an area of dense woodland, before slowly making our way into rear of Tunbridge Wells. It was a further  three and half miles on top of what already walked, and my knees were starting to play up. The left one especially was giving me some gip, particularly whilst going downhill.

Once we reached Tunbridge Wells the plan was to visit a couple of the pubs which were participating in the town’s Beer Weekend – see earlier post. There was the possibility that the strong, 6.0% ABV beer called “Big Bad Trad,” specially brewed by Larkin’s for the Beer Weekend, might still be available.

However, despite the promise of this intriguing beer, I decided not to join my friends in walking up to Sankey’s, especially as it would have meant a further walk downhill to the station, for the train home. In addition, I knew that son Matthew would be knocking off work fairly soon, and if I timed things right, he could give me a lift home from Tonbridge station.

I therefore said farewell to my friends and thanked them for their company. There was  20 minutes to spare before my train, so I popped into the Bedford, opposite the station where I had a swift half  of Gadds Seasider. Matthew was waiting to pick me up outside Tonbridge station which, given my sore knee and aching limbs, was most welcome.

The walk from Wadhurst station to Tunbridge Wells, was just under eight and a half miles, with the ground underfoot, very hard. I was sufficiently recovered after a nice roast pork dinner, to bash out the majority of this post, and also get things ready for work the following morning.

The scenery and the company were both excellent, and I was also very impressed with the Abergavenny Arms. The only downside was finding the Brecknock so quiet. Until the Fawcett’s came on the scene four years ago, the pub had been struggling, and with them now gone there is now concern for the pub’s future. I don’t want to end this post on a downer, so I will keep my fingers crossed that the new licensees make a go of the place. I wish them well, especially as the previous tenants will be a hard act to follow, and trust that Harvey’s will give them all the support they may need.