Friday 9 February 2024

Frant & Eridge - two Sussex villages and their pubs, share a common heritage

After escaping from the field and its flock of sinister-looking sheep, that seemed intent on preventing me from finishing last Saturday’s walk, I reached the busy, A26 main road and continued north for a couple of hundred yards. This brought me to the Nevill Crest & Gun, an attractive pub with over 500 years of history.  Set back from the road, and close to the entrance of Eridge Park Estate, the Nevill was the place where I could rest for a while, take the weight off my feet, and relax, over a pint or two of beer.

The intriguing name of the pub relates to its connection with the nearby Eridge Park Estate, home to the Nevill family since 1448. The “Nevill Crest” refers quite literally to the crest of the Nevill family, and it is their coat of arms that adorns the pub and many other buildings in the surrounding area. The “Gun” part of the name arose from a forge on the estate which produced cannons and cannon balls. At one time an ancient cannon, made of strips of metal held together with hoops, was fired on fair days or other days of celebration, and it is this Gun that is referred to in the pub name.  

Eridge Park has been the home of the Nevill family since they inherited the house and estate in 1448. The Nevills were also granted the title of Earls of Abergavenny, and this is reflected by the name of the pub in the nearby village of Frant. I started my walk, last Saturday from the Abergavenny Arms, so it is worth taking a look at this hostelry first, before moving on to the Nevill Crest & Gun. The Abergavenny is an attractive, former coaching inn, which occupies a prominent position overlooking the main A267 Tunbridge Wells- Eastbourne road. The part tile-hung building dates back to the 15th Century, and the age of the building is immediately apparent when you step inside. There are two large, heavily beamed rooms, one of which acts as a restaurant-cum-function room. Both areas are served from a large and well-appointed bar, and as I discovered last weekend, this is the beating hear of the pub.

I entered via the side door, as this was the closest entrance to the bus stop, passing the restaurant on my way to the bar. There were a number of barflies sat at the counter, although there was still room for me to be served. Harvey’s Best was the sole cask beer on sale, but it was in excellent form. The elderly male clique at the bar appeared totally unaware of my presence, although the barmaid was friendly, as was the lone female, perched on a stool, away from the old duffers, but as she seemed engrossed in a book, our conversation was largely to the antics of the pub dog, who was alternating between the log fire, and the possibility of treats at the bar.

If anything, the place embodied middle England on a Saturday lunchtime, where the male customers come to get away from their significant others. As for the girl, I got the impression she was waiting for someone, and was reading a book so as not to feel out of place. The Abergavenny is primarily a diners’ pub, although as witnessed, it does cater for drinkers in the area around the bar.

The villages of Frant and Eridge, both lie beyond the southern fringes of Tunbridge Wells, with the former situated on the A276 road which runs towards Eastbourne, and the latter lying on the A26, which leads down to Lewes, the county town of East Sussex. The villages, and their pubs, are connected by a short section of the Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk, and this was the rather muddy hike reported on in the post before last.

Returning to the Nevill Crest & Gun, this 500-year-old listed building was once part of the aforementioned Eridge Park Estate. Today the pub is part of the Brunning & Price chain and NOT, as stated incorrectly in my post of September 2020, a Whiting & Hammond establishment. For the record, the latter are a small, local chain of pubs, operated along similar lines to B&P, although it is quite easy to confuse the two. The Little Brown Jug, just a short distance away from my workplace in Chiddingstone Causeway, is a Whiting & Hammond pub, as is the Chaser Inn, at Shipbourne, to the north of Tonbridge.

The Nevill Crest and Gun has an interior on two slightly different levels. There are plenty of old beams, as might be expected in a building of this age, whilst at the rear of the pub, a lighter garden room, overlooking the lawns, is popular in summer. In early February, the open log fires were of much more interest to me than the garden, and they helped add to the atmosphere of this lovely old pub.

One feature I was glad about was the flooring of bare brick and exposed wooden boards, especially in view of my muddy walking boots. I took the precaution of placing those disposable over shoes (the type you see in clean room areas) on my footwear, but I still felt a little self-conscious sliding around with these bright-blue coverings over my hiking boots but wearing them was a darn sight easier than having to completely remove my tightly laced boots.

As in other B&P pubs, a comprehensive food menu is available along with a selection of cask beers, some of them local. I started off with a pint of Harvey’s Best last Saturday, and it was stunningly good. I scored it at 4.5 on Untappd. Also available was Volks ESB from 360° Brewery, a Coffee Stout collaboration beer between Vocation and Adnam’s, plus the “House” B&P Best Biter, brewed by St Austell. I risked a half of the Coffee Stout and was glad it wasn’t a pint. There was nothing wrong with the beer, it just wasn’t to my taste.

There was a nice Saturday afternoon atmosphere in the Nevill, during the duration of my visit. A couple sitting at the bar, commented on my choice of Coffee Stout, having tried it for themselves, but with the Harvey’s as good as it was, anything else would have paled into insignificance. The pub seemed dog friendly too, as might be expected in a country pub.

So, two Brunning & Price pubs in less than a week, (remember my meal at the Hare with our Japanese visitors?)  With its rustic feel and attractive rural setting, I found the Nevill far more to my taste, than the Hare. The latter was pleasant enough, even though it reminded me of a posh Edwardian family home, with its impressive mahogany staircase, and collection of comfortably furnished rooms leading off from the central vestibule. The numerous paintings completed the scene if you’ll pardon the pun.   

So, all in all some interesting, and quite contrasting pubs, all contained within a relatively tight geographical area. What will my next pub visit turn up?

.

Thursday 8 February 2024

Adnam's Old Ale provides a welcome change from Ghost Ship

On Tuesday evening, after dinner, I made a spontaneous and quite uncharacteristic decision to visit a local pub for a couple of hours. The pub in question was the Nelson Arms, Tonbridge’s premier, traditional alehouse, and one of the three runners up in CAMRA’s Pub of the Year competition, 2023. The reason for this decision was a rare appearance on the bar by Adnam’s Old Ale. This seasonal beer is a rarity in itself - certainly outside its Suffolk homeland, but as this lush and mellow dark beer is one, I haven’t tasted, since I can’t remember when, I decided to get myself down to the Nelson, before the cask ran out.

So, how did I know that Adnam’s Old was on sale at the Nelson? It’s all down to a phone app, called Real Ale Finder which, whilst not a particularly well-known app, lists beers on sale at pubs that have signed up to it. In West Kent this includes a handful of well-known pubs, alongside our local JDW outlets. The Nelson subscribes to Real Ale Finder, and regularly updates its entries – a vital point, if these apps are to deliver the service they claim to. The app is certainly useful for someone like me whose pub going isn’t that regular, and in the past, I have been alerted to the availability of a number of “must try” beers, following a quick flick through Real Ale Finder.

In this fashion, I have enjoyed Harvey’s Old, Prince of Denmark, St Austell HSD, and Gales HSB, so after spotting the Adnam’s seasonal dark beer at the end of last week, my intention was to call in at the Nelson and treat myself to a pint or two of it. For a variety of reasons things didn’t quite work out that way, but after noticing the beer still on sale on Tuesday, I decided it was then, or never. I persuaded Matthew to accompany me, and better still, I talked him in to drive me there.  I’m still not sure how I achieved that, although it was well worth me buying him a pint of Dortmunder, in return for the favour.

The Nelson was relatively quiet when we arrived, but this was perhaps to be expected on a chilly Tuesday evening in early February. I was relieved to see that the Adnam’s Old was still on sale, so I ordered a pint for me, plus the aforementioned Dortmunder for Matthew. As expected, the beer was everything it was cracked up to be, but then Adnam’s brew some pretty good beers when they put their mind to it, which makes me wonder why they continue putting all their weight behind Ghost Ship.

The latter is fine when you want something citrusy and refreshing a hot summer’s day, but Ghost Ship, seems to be everywhere. I much prefer Adnam’s Ordinary, known as Southwold Bitter these days, but this is a beer we rarely see in this part of the country. Instead, we’re far more likely to come across Broadside, a malt-driven beer I personally find overtly cloying. I really don’t understand why the brewery dropped the excellent Adnam’s Extra in favour of Broadside, particularly after the former won CAMRA’s Champion Beer of Britain, back in the day.

The Nelson’s landlord, Matt, came over an had a chat, mainly about beer of course, and primarily about dark ales. Matt is someone who really knows his beers and will often go out of his way to source something special, and out of the ordinary. Just recently, he has featured a range of Scottish beers, in celebration of Burns Night, and knowing my appreciation of the dark stuff, very kindly, gave me a bottle of Orkney DRK ISLD RSRV (Dark Island Reserve) a 10% abv strong dark ale, that has been aged in whisky casks. It is presented in an individually numbered, 330ml swing-top bottle, and is definitely a beer for laying down and keeping for a special occasion.

Whilst we were chatting, a customer came in and asked for his American-style growler to be filled up. I wasn’t sure which beer he went for, although I’ve a feeling it was the Adnam’s Old. I was more interested in his stainless steel “growler” complete with its own swing top cap, and if I hadn’t been talking to Matt, I would have asked him, where the container came from. I haven’t seen many of these robust, US- style steel, take out containers, which are light years away from those brown plastic "Karry Kegs", that you occasionally still see around. We supplies them for take-out cask, when we had our real ale, off-licence, but unless the beer is going to be drunk quickly, it rapidly loses condition, and becomes flat and lifeless. These plastic containers even have a vent cap, and you have to ask for heaven’s sake, why?

There was a second dark ale on the bar, in the form of Storm Surge, a full-bodied stout, from Rother Valley. I gave this one a try, although I much preferred the Adnam’s Old. Rother Valley Brewery are one of those breweries that have been going for a long time, keeping their head down, whilst turning out a well-respected, range of beers, encompassing a wide range of different styles. Based at Northiam, on a hop and dairy farm, just across the border into Sussex, RVBC have been going since 1993. They must be doing something right, but you never hear much about their beers, or see CAMRA giving the company much in the way of publicity

Matthew and I left, shortly before 9.30pm. I had a few items to pick up from Sainsbury’s on the way home, and both of us and work, the following morning. We said farewell to Matt on the way out, and thanked him for an interesting evening.

 

Sunday 4 February 2024

Return to the Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk, but would I make it past those sinister looking sheep?

On Saturday, I pulled on my trusty hiking boots for the first time since last Spring and headed back out on the Tunbridge Wells Circular Walk. Last year I’d set myself the relatively easy task of completing this 28 mile walk which, as its name suggests, encompasses the town of Tunbridge Wells. On the way, the TWCW passes through the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and takes in some attractive villages, which include some excellent pubs. A guide book, published by the Kent Ramblers Association, divides the trail up into four sections of slightly equal length, with the opportunity of dividing these further. Being a circular route, there are opportunities to join the path at a number of different locations, whilst keeping in mind public transport connections at either end.

It should have been an easy task, after all when a friend and I walked the South Downs Way, we were covering distances between 12 and 14 miles, on a daily basis. That was 14 years ago, and unsurprisingly my levels of fitness and stamina have declined somewhat, but even so, just a couple of years ago, I was walking 8 to eleven miles a day, as I completed the quite challenging at times, North Downs Way.

By the end of May, last year, I’d only completed two of the four sections (15 miles) of the Tunbridge Wells Circular, before inexplicably losing interest in the walk. The guidebook was partly to blame, as I took several wrong turns due to a combination of poor signposting, plus scant, and in some cases, incomplete information in the guidebook. Becoming lost in the middle of a wood, is no fun, even though civilisation is never that far away, so I kind of gave up on the TWC – not completely, but the idea was definitely put on the back-burner.

This weekend though, I was determined to do something about it, and following a couple of weeks of dry and relatively warm weather – for the time of year, was determined to do something about it. Up to this point, I had walked in a clockwise direction, from Southborough to Frant, taking in the large village of Pembury on the way. The next stage is from Frant to Groombridge, a distance of just seven miles, although given my decreased levels of fitness, plus the possibility of muddy conditions under foot, I sensibly decided to cut the walk short at Eridge Green. This isn’t quite the halfway point, but with a half-hourly bus service back to Tunbridge Wells, it did make sense. So, on a rather dull and overcast Saturday morning, off I went, taking the bus over to Tunbridge Wells from Tonbridge.

I was lucky with my onward connection to Frant, having just a 15-minute wait, and after a short ride south, out of Tunbridge Wells along the A267, the No. 15 bus dropped me off almost out side the Abergavenny Arms. This imposing pub, dates from the 15th Century, but has seen many alterations since first opening its rooms. It is one of two pubs in the village, but seeing as it was both nearer to the starting point of the walk, and the fact I wanted to renew my acquaintance with the pub, the Abergavenny was my first port of call.

There will be more about the Abergavenny in a subsequent post, and the same applies with the strangely named, Nevill Crest & Gun at the end of the walk in Eridge. For now, I want to concentrate on the walk, apart from saying that the walk I was about to undertake, was a repeat of the one I made with a group of friends, on August Bank Holiday Monday, 2020. This was during the period when COVID restrictions were first lifted, only to be re-imposed three month's later with that ridiculous 4-Tier system, devised by the hapless Matt Hancock. The bonus, at the time was our meal qualified for a 50% reduction, under the then Chancellor, Rishi Sunak’s “Eat Out to Help Out” scheme. Rishi is now Prime Minister, and Hancock thankfully, is nowhere to be seen, but three months later, we were to look back at those halcyon days when lock down was first lifted, with a sense of longing.

It's worth noting that my friends and I had walked to the Abergavenny from Tunbridge Wells earlier that day, and after our meal hiked a similar distance to Eridge. On Saturday, after leaving the pub, I continued along the A267 for some distance, concerned that I might have missed the spot where the TWCW deviates from the main road, and descends into Eridge Park. I hadn’t missed it, even though the turnoff seemed much further away than I remembered from 3½ years ago, but the drop down into the park was every bit as steep as I recall. The path was slippery as well, and contained umpteen trip hazards, in the form of exposed tree roots.

Worse was to come, in the form of mud and lots of it, and my initial optimism that it might be reasonably dry underfoot, soon vanished. I was warned about the mud by a group of ramblers who were making their way up to Frant, after having walked over from Eridge. One look at their muddy boots and trouser bottoms said it all, although it was some way down before I reached the really muddy areas. These were found in the relatively flat bottom of the hollow, where a series of lakes, topped up by a number of streams, makes this an idyllic spot in summer.

The area didn’t look anywhere near as attractive in early February, but I kept plodding steadily on, only to reach a sign which said “Halfway ish.”  Discovering there was a similar distance still to walk, was rather dis-heartening, because whilst this section of the trail was only three miles in length it seemed much longer, thanks in no small part to the muddy conditions underfoot, which made for slow going. A walk which should only have taken an hour, ended up taking nearly two because of the constant need to make ones way around the worst of the muddy areas.

I almost got lost again, although the guidebook did hint that one should bear right, across a stream, and then continue steeply uphill. Having to leave the mud-free, metalled road I’d been walking along, didn’t seem right, but fortunately salvation appeared in the form of a young couple, who knew where they were going. They suggested that I follow them, which I did, but they soon disappeared from sight, being much faster walkers than me. This didn’t matter too much, as after looking at both my map and guidebook, I could see I was on the correct path.

Getting left behind, seems the story of my rambling life, as I am quite a slow walker. This is the principle reason I prefer to walk on my own, as it ends up quite embarrassing when walking companions end up having to stop and wait for me, at the brow of every hill, or area where the path splits in two. And Mrs PBT’s thinks I’m a fast walker! Fortunately, I was on the final straight, and at the top of the final hill I could hear the noise of the traffic on the busy A26.

There was one last hurdle to contend with, and that was a field of sheep, or rather two fields, as they were interconnected. A field full of livestock doesn’t normally bother me, and I have

walked through herds of cattle (including one containing a rather large bull) as well as flocks of sheep, without any trouble. This lot had a look about them though which was far from friendly, and when several sheep came bounding towards me, I had to scare them off by waving my rucksack in front of them. That worked for a while, but as I continued towards the second field, further woolly beasts made their appearance and didn’t look like giving up on me.

Again, waving my backpack and my stick along with raising my voice had little effect, so foolishly or not I made my way towards them making as much noise as possible. They backed away, but then their mates in the second field came funnelling through the gap in the hedge to join the others. Once they were all through the gap, that was my cue to make my way as quickly as possible towards the kissing gate at the far edge of the field, and escape.

I recall a work colleague claiming that sheep can, if alarmed, charge at people with the objective of headbutting them to the ground. This is where the danger lies, because should you find yourself in this unfortunate position, the herd will take great delight in trampling you, possibly with serious and even fatal consequences! Knowing this and determined to show these normally docile creatures who was boss, my tactics of waving things around, shooing them away and looking them directly in the eye worked, and I escaped from the field unscathed.

I double checked the way mark signs plus my map, and was definitely on a public right of way, so technically I wasn’t at fault. One possible explanation for the sheep’s intimidating behaviour could be the lambing season is fast approaching and these expectant mums would soon be giving birth. It makes sense, wanting to protect their unborn from a nasty man, even though his sole aim was to get across their field, to the other side of the road, where a nice welcoming pint of beer was waiting for him.

The Nevill Crest & Gun was indeed just a few minutes’ walk away, and next time I shall tell you about the pub, and how it served me one of the best pints of Harvey’s I’ve had in a long time. 

Footnote: the second sheep picture belongs to another time and another place, but they still look quite menacing, don't you think?

 

Friday 2 February 2024

Farewell to January

The second half of January has been rather hectic, especially on the work front, featuring a supplier audit, followed by a major re-certification audit. The latter took place over two days and was conducted by three auditors from three different countries, on behalf of our notified body, TÃœV Süd. Fortunately, we ticked all the right boxes, and our CE accreditation was renewed for a further two years. We can therefore continue selling our products to the rest of the world. 

Did the Johnson administration seriously think industry would go along with their ridiculous, copy-cat UKCA Mark accreditation?  Especially given the additional costs their “world-beating” scheme would impose on UK companies? Leaving the EU was supposed to be about removing “red tape," not adding an extra layer! Unlike my previous position, as head of Quality Control, I wasn't involved with the audit, although I still ended up pointing my successor, plus our Regulatory Affairs Manager in the right direction, a few times. There’s life in this old dog yet, as well as proof that there’s nothing like the experience of nearly two decades in the job!

Following on from the audit, we had visit from our Japanese directors. They were here primarily for a board meeting, but also to go over our plans for expansion and see for themselves the alterations and site improvements carried out since their last visit. I’ve been heavily involved in both the planning and implementation of these improvements, and I’m pleased to report the visitors were impressed by what they saw. Despite not being involved in the meetings, I was still invited out for a farewell meal on Tuesday evening, along with a handful of fellow managers. 

Our Japanese colleagues do like to let their hair down, once the business is over, and we all enjoyed an excellent meal at the Hare, Langton Green, just outside Tunbridge Wells. The Hare is a large former Courage pub, which is now a Bruning & Price outlet, and as our visit the other evening was the first time I’ve set foot inside the pub, I’m unable to say what it was like under its previous owners. 

It’s obviously a popular place, as when I arrived with a colleague the car park was already full, leaving us to park some distance away, down a side road. The interior was spacious, and quite palatial, with a number of different rooms radiating out from a serving area. I'm glad the company was picking up the tab because items on the menu were quite pricey, although I have to say the quality of the food was beyond reproach. But what about the beer I hear you ask? I ended up having to drive to the Hare that evening, even though son Matthew had quite valiantly offered to run me over there and pick me up afterwards. This would have meant four car journeys for him, so I declined his kind offer, particularly as I’d rather chivalrously offered a colleague a lift to the pub.  She was unable to drive, due to a badly sprained wrist, so was pleased at being able to attend the event.

The choice on the bar was the usual Greene King line up of IPA, and Ruddles Best, along with two guest. These were Purity Mad Goose plus an offering from By the Horns called, Stiff Upper Lip. I opted for the Mad Goose, as did most of my colleagues along with our Japanese visitors. I ticked it on Untappd as light, crisp and refreshing and was the right choice for the two fish courses I’d selected from the menu. It was also my sole beer of the evening, but a couple of colleagues who weren’t driving, decided to give the By the Horns offering a try.

The look on their faces spoke volumes for the quality (or lack of it) of Stiff Upper Lip. Our General Manager passed his pint across for my opinion, and one sniff was enough for me to to confirm the beer was way passed its best. This action amused my French colleague who didn't realise you could sniff beer as well as wine. I told her that using one’s nose was an equally good guide to the quality of a beer as it is to wine, and in this case the sharp taste of the beer confirmed it was off. 

The beer was changed with good grace, although I didn't check afterwards. to see whether the pump-clip had been turned round. The clue though is in the type of pub we were in, and as many people know Bruning & Price is an upmarket, gastro-pub chain, patronised by what Retired Martin would describe as well-to-do “gentlefolk.” Despite this minor hiccup, the staff were friendly and the service exemplary.

I've now got four very welcome days away from the office, although today’s midday, visit to the Optometrist did rather eat into the day. However, it is important to check that my glaucoma-related, "pigment dispersion syndrome" is being kept in check, and that my eyes are functioning normally. Yes they are, although I’ve been asked to return in six months’ time, rather than the usual twelve.

On the beer front, Friday and Saturday night, sees Tonbridge Juddians Rugby Club holding their annual Winter Beer Festival at the clubhouse. There are 20 different casks to choose from, but with matches from the first weekend’s play of the Six Nations Championship showing in the bar, the clubhouse is likely to be rammed.  For this reason, I’ve decided to give the event a miss especially as I've rather gone off beer festivals. Last weekend’s Dark & Delicious Beer Festival in Crowborough was an exception, being a pub festival although I'm still of the opinion that too much choice leaves one wanting less.

My recent post about my first ever brewery visit, which just happened to be Marston’s at Burton-on- Trent, attracted a lot of comment, but more so with people trying to guess the pub selling Bank’s Bitter that our coach party stopped at, on the way back to Salford, from Burton. 50 years on I'm unable to recall the name or location of this pub, and despite the best efforts, of some of the most knowledgeable pub goers in the area, I'm still not convinced that we cracked it.

The trouble is we tend to recall events or locations far better when there's something memorable or worth remembering, and whilst I’m confident that the beer was good, (pubs were shifting much higher volumes of cask back in those days), there was nothing that memorable or out of the ordinary that jumped out in front of me. So, try as I might, the only recollection I have is the pub was close to a roundabout and on the very edge of a town, somewhere between Burton and Greater Manchester.

Another thing I've been doing over the past few weeks, is laying some tentative plans for some days out by rail.  Initially I wanted to take advantage of the government's Great British Rail Sale promotion, and whilst there were a number of bargain, half-price tickets available, none of them were to places I wanted to go. Furthermore, if they were, they were at the wrong time or on the wrong date. Despite this I have pencilled in a day trip to Newcastle upon Tyne – a city I passed through several times on journeys to Edinburgh, but have never spent time at, or taken time to explore.

Other places on my wish list include Leeds, plus a few Midland destinations, including Tamworth, to visit this year’s CAMRA Pub of the Year, winner, (see below), plus the Black Country Walkabout, postponed from last August, due to my third brush with COVID. A lot has been happening as well on the brewery front, although other bloggers have covered these events far better than me. Pride of place here goes to Chris Dyson, whose latest post on his very readable, Real Ale, Real Music site – History Repeating Itself, is well worth looking at.

Moving on, the news that Tonbridge’s Nelson Arms failed to scoop the top award in CAMRA’s National Pub of the Year, is probably old hat by now, although the pub did make it to the final four. The Tamworth Tap, in the town of the same name, picked up the top award, for the second year running, so the pub must be doing something right. I haven't been to the Tamworth Tap, although I'm seriously contemplating paying it a visit. Having seen the pub’s website and taking in all that the Tap has to offer, I appreciate the features which must really have appealed to the judges. 

I haven’t spoken to Matt at the Nelson, since the award was announced, and whilst the pub would obviously have been disappointed, reaching the top four in the country was an achievement in itself. That's it for the time being, and there should be plenty to follow in February which, as I’m sure you’ve realised, has already begun.

 

Sunday 28 January 2024

Dark and Delicious Winter Beers at the Cooper's Arms

The Dark and Delicious Winter Beer Festival, held at the Cooper’s Arms, Crowborough, is an annual event hosted by the pub at the end of each January, and normally features a dozen or so strong, “winter ales”, most of them on the dark side, although not exclusively so. This year’s festival was the first I have attended since before the pandemic, and it largely followed, the pattern set by previous events.

The Cooper’s Arms is an attractive 19th Century pub perched on the side of a hill, in an affluent residential area to the west of Crowborough. It is constructed partially from brick and local stone, and is situated in a quiet side road, which falls away sharply as you turn into it. As the road starts to descend further, there are some quite spectacular views towards the edge of Ashdown Forest; a reminder, if one was needed, that at 787 ft above sea level, Crowborough is the highest town in South East England. 

The Cooper’s is a former Charrington’s tied house, and back in the day, served a very acceptable pint of Draught Bass. It also offered good food, as I discovered when I was taken there for lunch by Brian, the owner of the printers my company used at the time. After working closely with Brian, we both realised our mutual appreciation of good beer and good pubs, and because of this he was keen to show off his local. Straight away I could see why he liked the Cooper’s, although after 35 years, there has been quite a few changes.

Friday 25th saw myself and a group of friends boarding the No. 29 bus at Five Ways in Tunbridge Wells, alighting in the centre of Crowborough at the Cross. As mentioned earlier, the town is the highest in the south-east, and it is also one of the most spread out. Despite the welcome winter sunshine, there was a rather keen wind blowing as we crossed the road, and I was certainly glad that I’d donned an extra layer of clothing before leaving the house.

It’s quite a trek to the Cooper’s from the centre of Crowborough, and if you are on foot, it’s one of those walks where you keep thinking the pub is just around the next corner, or just over the brow of the next hill. It’s mainly downhill as well, passing through a mixed residential area of quite substantial modern houses, interspersed with older, and rather posh looking Victorian dwellings. Around virtually every corner there are splendid views out towards the flanks of Ashdown Forest, but eventually after about 20 minutes of brisk walking, a turning on the right (Cooper’s Lane), leads to the pub which the road is named after.

I stopped to take a few photos, before entering, and was pleasantly surprised that the place had been given a long overdue makeover. Internally there is one long and quite narrow bar, which opens up at both ends. Arriving on a Friday, meant there were plenty of unoccupied chairs and tables, so after laying claim to a spot close to the wood burner, we approached the bar to see what beers were on sale.

There was a dozen carefully selected beers, most of them dark in nature, such as porters, stouts, brown or old ales. Breweries that featured prominently, included Burning Sky and Goacher’s, with contributions from Arkells, Kernel and Tonbridge. Tucked away, in a narrow alcove on the customers’ side of the bar, was another bank of four hand pumps, dispensing the stronger stuff, with a couple of aged casks from Dark Star (Critical Mass) and Moor Beer (Old Freddy Walker). More on that later.

Our party of six, had grown to ten with the presence in the pub of another group of local CAMRA members, and after we’d all settled down, got stuck into the beers, and were deep in various interlinked conversations, that thoughts turned to something to eat. According to the pub’s website, food would be available between midday and 3pm. But with no sign of  anything to eat,  I asked the landlord as to when some solid sustenance might be available. He said that whilst there would not be any hot food, a selection filled rolls would be forthcoming, although with time wearing on, and no sign of any rolls, most of us had decided to make do instead with the old fallback of crisps and peanuts.

The lack of anything to eat was in sharp contrast to the event that took place in 2016 when, as reported here, there were stacks of wrapped and pre-prepared cheese and onion rolls at each end of the bar, and the kitchen staff were kept busy serving either pasties or sausage and chips. I'm not sure what happened this time around, although as the landlord was there on his own, it may well have been down to staffing issues. Comments the next day, on social media from a number of CAMRA members who attended the festival on Saturday, reported the presence of a food truck parked at the rear of the pub, which at least solved the issue of something solid, to soak up the beer.

Beer-wise, there was an excellent selection of mainly dark beers, served in good condition and sold at reasonable prices. There was a nice and convivial atmosphere inside the pub,  although the clientele was almost exclusively male. As far as I was concerned, Burning Sky delivered the outstanding beers of the festival, in the form of their Porter, plus their 5.9% Blended Export Stout. For the connoisseurs amongst you, the latter had a touch of Brettanomyces - "Brett" which imparts a slight sour touch to the beer which, in small quantities, and when set against the main background flavours of the finished beer, gives it a refreshing edge.

I’d never really got the "Brett" thing before, but I certainly did this time around, and for this reason this Blended Export Stout was “beer of the festival” for me. I didn’t get to try the Old Freddy Walker from Moor Brewery near Bristol, a full-bodied, rich, and dark, 7.3% abv strong ale. As at previous festivals, mine host had laid down a cask of this beer to age in the pub’s cellar, for a year. I didn’t try this year’s version, but the example sold in 2016 was a stunning beer, and I was not the only one to state, back then, that it was the best beer of the day.

Apart from at special events, such as festivals, the Cooper's has limited weekday opening times, and is closed altogether, from Monday through to Wednesday. I imagine this is a sign of the times, although it is in sharp contrast to that occasion, 35 years ago, when my printer friend treated me for lunch at the pub. The Cooper's opens at 5pm Thursday-Saturday, and 3pm on Sundays, although  possibly that may change, come the summer. Unfortunately, its current restricted opening does rule out a daytime visit, with the exception of Sunday afternoon, which is a great shame, but perhaps reflects changing times and changing social habits.