On
Friday, in the company of three members of
West Kent
CAMRA branch, I visited the
Dovecote Inn, situated in the tiny hamlet of
Capel.
Two of us travelled by bus, taking the
205 Autocar service from
Tonbridge, and
then alighting at
Five Oak Green – a linear village, close to
Paddock Wood.
From there, it was a 20-minute walk, along the lanes to the
Dovecote, which
along with the adjacent row of
Victorian houses, forms part of a rather
isolated settlement.
Capel must have been a larger settlement at some time in the
past, as half a mile up the road is the church of
St Thomas a Becket, which
dates back to
Norman times.
Becket himself is said to have preached at this
church, and the tower was partly rebuilt following a fire in
1639. The church contains
some extensive wall paintings, which cover most of the nave, which I haven’t
seen, although I shall make the effort to do so, when I have a bit more time. The
building is now in the care of the
Churches Conservation Trust.
Returning to the
Dovecote, the pub is holding a
Green Hop
Ale Festival this weekend, and with 14 different beers on sale, as well as the pub’s
usual stalwarts of
Harvey’s and
Larkin's, it would have seemed rude, not to have
paid a visit. It also provided, for me, the ideal opportunity of sampling a few
of 2023’s crop of
GHA’s for the first time. I had missed out on the launch of
Kent
Green Hop Beer Fortnight, for a variety of reasons, and shortly after the promotion’s
launch, I was out of the country for three weeks. The event at the
Dovecote therefore
presented an opportunity to redeem the situation, in a small, but quite
significant way.
The significance derives from a school of thought which says
that although
Green Hop Ales are intentionally brewed using freshly harvested
hops, the finished beers benefit from a period of maturation and storage. This
idea, and the principles behind it, is slowly gaining traction, and when one
looks back at the concept over its relatively short history, it begins to make
sense. The very first
Green Hop Ales were of necessity experimental, as no one
really knew how many hops needed to be added at the start of the brewing
process, or how the finished product would turn out.
Hops, of course, are normally dried and from experience
gained over many years, the brewer knows the correct weight of hops to be added
to each brew, in order to achieve the desired result and a consistent end
product. Freshly harvested hops are not dried and are added
“wet” – or
“green”
and whilst some might think it a simple matter of extrapolating back the dried hop
weight for the wet one, in theory it doesn’t always work out like that.
Consequently, many of the original
GHA’s were unbalanced,
and rather over-hopped, to put it mildly! I remember some of these beers possessing
a rich resinous taste, alongside an almost oily
texture. In many cases you could actually feel the hops oils coating your
tongue and the roof of your mouth. This feature was obviously apparent
to the brewers of these beers, and gradually, they
now seem
to have cut down on the amount of wet hops used. As mentioned earlier, the
suspicion was green hops were being added to the brew-kettle at the same rate
that would have been used for normal dried hops.
Appropriate adjustments were
made, but many lovers of these beers felt that the pendulum had swung back too
far in the opposite direction. This was apparent in 2019, when I attended the
launch of that year’s Kent Green Hop Beers Fortnight, at the Canterbury
Food & Drink Festival. I wrote at the time that whilst all the
green-hopped beers I tried that day were good, there was little to distinguish
them from their normal dry-hop counterparts.
Several of my companions said the
same thing, and we all decided this was because the brewers of
GHA’s had become
more adept, over the years, at using hops in their natural
“wet”
state.
So, by cutting the amount of green hops
used to brew this uniquely seasonal type of beer, the brewers inadvertently removed
the very characteristics that attracted drinkers to green-hopped beers
in the first place. In effect, a unique and very time of year dependent beer, had
been turned into just another run of the mill and rather ordinary one.
Fast forward four years,
and in response to this, and with an eye to perhaps rekindling some of the hoppy-resinous
character that was a salient feature of those early,
GHA’s, the aforementioned idea
of allowing the beer to age, and mature, has come about. A chance to sample
some of them presented itself at the
Spa Valley Railway Beer Festival, a collaboration
between
West Kent CAMRA and the
Tunbridge Wells - based,
heritage railway. As in
previous years the event included a dedicated
Green Hop Beer Bar, featuring one
of the widest range of
GHA’s in the country.
The beer festival took place last weekend, which unfortunately
clashed with our return from holiday, especially as there was lots to do on the
home and domestic front. In a small, but still significant way, the
Dovecote’s Green
Hop Beer Festival acted as a replacement for the main event, at least for me.
There were
17 GHA’s on sale, the majority racked on a stillage, occupying an
alcove, close to the front door of the pub.
I think I am correct in saying that this was the
Dovecote’s
first event involving green hop beers, and the selection they put on was a
mixture of old favourites alongside a few newcomers. The majority of the beers
were from brewers based in
Kent and
Sussex, although there was one from north
London-based Redemption using hops freshly harvested from
Townend Hop Farm, in
Herefordshire. The latter was an important feature, as
the counties of
Herefordshire and
Worcestershire, have now overtaken
Kent in
terms of the acreage of hops grown.
I kicked off with
Gadd’s
Green Hop from
Ramsgate, described as a pale ale high in bitterness,
with floral hops through and through. This
4.8% beer didn’t disappoint, as I knew it
wouldn’t, especially as
Gadd’s have a reputation amongst local drinkers for the
quality of their beers. Next up was the
4.3% Cascade Green Hop from
Bexley
Brewery. Brewed, as its name suggests, using fresh
Cascade hops, I wasn’t sure
at first whether or not to go for this one.
Bexley Brewery beers always seemed
a bit hit and miss to me, but after my
CAMRA friends informed me, the company
had upped its game, I bit the bullet and went for it.
It was a decent and refreshing session bitter, so I was pleased
not to have let past prejudices affect my choice of beer.
I only had time for one final beer, as I
needed to be back at
Bailey Towers before 3 pm. You might have seen me mention
the decorators we had in, whilst we were away. Their brief was to paint the
walls, ceilings and exposed woodwork on our stairs and landing, a task we had
only half-heartedly undertaken during the past three decades. I’d also asked
them to remove the stair carpet, and with
Mrs PBT’s keen on having a new one laid,
a surveyor from
Carpetright was booked to call.
This meant having to leave to leave the Dovecote at 2.15 pm,
in order to catch the 205 bus back to Tonbridge. Before leaving the pub, I
squeezed in a swift half of Wantsum Bullion, a 4.6% green hop stout brewed
using Bullion hops. I written previously that the concept of green hopped dark
beers doesn’t really work. This offering from Wantsum Brewery did little to change my
mind, but sometimes you have to give these things a try.
I left my three friends to enjoy a few more
GHA’s, plus some of the
Dovecote's delicious looking food, and made
my way back to
Five Oak Green and the bus home. On my way to the bus stop, I
realised I had left my umbrella in the pub. There wasn’t time to go back for it,
so after a quick phone call with the licensee, to confirm its presence, I shall
have to call in for it, some time over the weekend. It will be a good excuse to
discover which
GHA’s are left, and to grab a quick one for myself.