When you're dying for a pint, but Doom Bar is the only cask available

There are times when you just want a beer, regardless of what it is, or who brews if. You’ve been keeping yourself busy and working hard or, as in my case, been out for lengthy country walk in the autumn sunshine, along a stretch of the North Downs Way.

Three o’clock on a Saturday afternoon was such a time when, having walked from Shepherdswell station to Waldershare House, and then back to Shepherdswell village green, I was gagging for a pint. I was also in a hurry, because I had a train to catch, and as services back to Dover, and then home, were only hourly, time was of the essence.

For some reason, I was convinced there were no pubs remaining in Shepherdswell, an assumption that wasn’t entirely without foundation, thanks to What Pub. This normally reliable source has no pubs listed in the village, and it was only after a quick peep on my phone, when I stopped to eat my sandwiches, and take a much-needed break, that I discovered that What Pub isn’t always infallible.

The spot chosen for my lunchtime break was less than a mile away from the small settlement of Coldred, and for this reason I’d been checking on the Carpenter’s Arms - an unspoilt pub of some repute. I had only been to the Carpenter’s once before, and seeing as I was close by, it would have been remiss not to have made a return visit. Unfortunately, and as is often the wont with “unspoiled pubs,” the Carpenter’s has limited hours of trading and, even on a Saturday, doesn’t open its doors until 5pm.

It was then that I came across the Bell Inn, also listed under Coldred, although a glance at the map indicates the pub is well and truly in Shepherdswell, which is a much larger settlement. So, the village wasn’t pub-less after all, but what on earth is What Pub playing at, and why hasn’t the local CAMRA branch corrected this obvious error?

The next question was where exactly was the pub, and would I be able to locate it on my way back to Shepherdswell station? What Pub has the Bell located in Church Hill, overlooking the green so the presence of a church was the obvious clue as to its whereabouts, but it wasn’t that obvious. This was because on my outward journey from the station, I had followed the route of the NDW, but once back in the village I’d be able to return along the road, which was shorter and more direct.

I noticed the church, as I emerged from the footpath, so stopped to ask a couple, out walking their dog, as to the whereabouts of the Bell. Just there, across the green, was the reply, and turning to my left I could indeed see the Bell Inn, a charming, flint building, on the opposite side. I thanked this couple, and hurriedly made my way across the green, as hinted at previously, I was dying for a pint.

I made my way inside, and found a small group of mainly male drinkers, gathered in front of the bar. I quickly looked back and forth along the counter, disappointed that Doom Bar appeared o be the sole cask offering. It looked as if London Pride had also been on sale, but with the pump clip turned around, it would have to be "Cornwall’s finest." 

Actually, that should read Burton’s finest, because for many years now, Sharp’s brewery, in Rock Cornwall, has not possessed the capacity necessary to turn out the volumes associated with Britain’s best-selling cask ale. This position goes hand in glove with the acquisition of Sharp’s, by global giant, Molson Coors, who turned Doom Bar into the national brand it is today, but in doing so the new owners invariably cut corners and dumbed what had once been a characterful and enjoyable beer into blandness personified.   

Determined not to let my prejudices cloud my appreciation of what would almost certainly be my only pint of the afternoon, I placed my order, although not without first asking whether the Pride might be on. It wasn’t, but the landlady assured me the Doom Bar was fresh on. I paid for my pint, £4.70, and then sat myself down at a table overlooking the large open fireplace, to the right of the bar. The landlady was right about the beer being in good condition, but you can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, and whilst my drink was refreshing, and definitely needed after a long walk, it was definitely lacking something, and a few more hops would have been a good start.

Rather puzzlingly, it was served in a Courage glass, but that’s an aside really, as everything else about the Bell, ticked all the right boxes. A lively and attractive village local, in a picturesque location, that seemed to enjoy the support of the local community, and for a weary and thirsty traveller like me, a most welcome stop on my way back to the station.

Craft Republic at The GoodSheds

I’m sure my wife thinks I do this deliberately, because more often than not, when we have stayed somewhere away from home, there mysteriously happens to be a really good pub or brewery tap in the immediate vicinity. This phenomena has occurred so frequently that It’s worthy of its own blog, but for the time being let’s have a look at the latest example of Paul’s “lucky streak,” and how I hit the jackpot in the most unexpected of places - Barry Island!

You would expect me to have taken a look on What Pub, just to check on the pubs and bars in the vicinity of our hotel, and that is exactly what I did. Whilst not listed as stocking cask, Craft Republic was described as an excellent craft-beer bar, with 14 taps, which included one for cider, plus another for alcohol-free beer. Barry Craft Gin, produced on the premises, is also available, for those who enjoy something stronger.

A look on the bar’s website, sent out all the right signals, so let’s take a closer look at Craft Republic’s credentials. Owned and run by, husband-and-wife team Tim and Claire, who are Barry residents. The couple pride themselves on being totally independent, with no investors, and no tie-ins with breweries or distributors. The location they chose was the GoodSheds, which is the brainchild of a local developer whose vision was to create a modern, urban development, with a strong community at its heart. This matched the ethos of what Tim and Claire wanted to achieve with their new bar.

The couple conducted most of the fitting out of the bar themselves, with the lion’s share of the work taking place during the Covid lock-down. Craft Republic opened to the public in August 2020, but was then subject to the various, and restrictions that followed, from the autumn of 2020, right through to spring, the following year. Remember the hapless Health Secretary, Matt Handcock, with his totally illogical “tier system” that mystified and frustrated drinkers and business owners alike?

Thankfully, these restrictions are now just an unpleasant memory, although there is still a need for vigilance. Fortunately, the health service seem well prepared for a potential increase in Covid cases this winter, with a new Covid booster vaccination being rolled out, as I type. For the record, Mrs PBT’s and I are due our shots at the beginning of next month, along with a flu vaccination at the same time – one in each arm?

Returning to Craft Republic, the good news was the bar was less than 5 minutes’ walk from the Premier Inn we were staying at, so what not to like? On the second night of our stay in Barry, we took a stroll along to the GoodSheds – spoiler alert, Matthew and I had already taken a peep after breakfast that morning. As the name suggests, the complex is housed in some former railway storage buildings, and these have been supplemented by what is described as a “container village.”

As most of us know, shipping containers can be adapted for a wide range of uses – two of the building contractors that Eileen does book-keeping work for, operate from fully-fitted offices, housed in such units. Continuing the railway theme, there are a number of former train carriages said to be former Gatwick Express rolling-stock. They have been painted black, in common with the majority of the surrounding buildings, and look quite striking in their new livery.

Upon arrival, we were shown to a table, and after a quick run through the beer selection, the food offering was explained. Craft Republic doesn’t offer food, but the owners are more than happy for customers to bring food in with them. For those wishing to order from one of their GoodSheds neighbours, an App was available which, after scanning a QR code, enabled customers to select, order and pay for their food, and then collect, when ready from the takeaway point outside the main GoodSheds entrance.

The food was best described as “street food,” and there was a good selection of different options available. The Bailey family went for the burger option, and the friendly bar staff member, guided us through the process. 

Unfortunately, I couldn’t get my payment to go through, so he directed me into the labyrinth of different food stall, inside the containers, where I was able to order and pay in person. Not long afterwards, I received a text, advising my order was ready for collection, so I popped along to pick it up. So, with everything we needed, served on compostable cardboard trays, with wooden knives and forks, the chicken burgers, served with lime-pickle dressing and chilli-jam, plus fries to die for, it was “finger-licking good,” as the Colonel would have said, and the perfect accompaniment to the craft beer offerings on tap.

I started with a pint of DEYA Steady Rolling Man, a 5.2% New England IPA, and followed it with a brew, with a rather long name, from Cloudwater. It was certainly extremely cloudy, and not particularly enjoyable. Fortunately, I only ordered a half, but “The Interior Life and the External World," reinforced my view that Cloudwater are seriously over-hyped, and matched the premonition which led me to order a half in the first place. I fully expect now, to received hate mail from Cloudwater fans, and whilst I should perhaps have known better than to order a NIPA, brew I started off with from DEYA was fine, with just the merest hint of “murk.” This was in stark contrast to the turbid-looking Cloudwater offering! If you don’t believe me, check out the photos as “pond water” would be a more apt name.

A beer that was not to my liking is no reflection on Craft Republic, but fortunately my last beer of the evening, came up trumps. Much like I knew I was on potential dodgy ground with Cloudwater, I somehow knew that Night Swimming, a 6.8% coffee stout from Tenby Brewing, would come up trumps. It certainly ticked all the right boxes, as did Craft Republic itself. During the course of our stay, the bar started filling up nicely, with a good mixed crowd. There were a couple of families we could see sitting outside, complete with children and dogs.

Speaking of our canine friends, Darcy the pub dog made a beeline for our table, as soon as he smelled the food. He hovered around, under our feet, waiting for the occasional chip to be dropped – as invariably happened.  All in all, our visit was an extremely positive experience, made all the more enjoyable by the helpful and knowledgeable staff. As we left, we were thanked by owner Tim, who was sitting at a table, tapping away on his laptop, whilst enjoying a beer.

To sum up, I can thoroughly recommend a visit not just to Craft Republic, but to the entire GoodSheds complex itself. The same recommendation applies to Barry Island, as the Bailey family found the town a lot nicer than we thought it would be. With sandy beaches, a High Street with plenty of independently owned shops, attractive looking and affordable houses, plus friendly Welsh people – I would say that, given my ancestry. I would also say that Barry Island is well worth a visit, even if you’re not a fan of Gavin & Stacey!