Third time lucky - Parts 1 & 2

It was a case third time lucky last Sunday afternoon when, after a spot of shopping in Tunbridge Wells, Matthew and I decided we could do with a drink. It wasn’t exactly serious shopping, but rather an excuse to get out of the house and leave Mrs PBT’s in peace. We didn’t realise at the time, but Eileen was in the early stages of a bout of cellulitis. You might not have heard much about this condition, but if not treated quickly it can be serious, and even life-threatening.

I won’t go into details here, although if you want to know more, then take a look on this link, but what I will say is that between us Mrs PBT’s and I know quite a few people who have had cellulitis, and that most of them are male. Eileen has been prescribed a course of strong antibiotics, so strong in fact that they have left her feeling nauseous, and completely off her food. I’m jumping the gun somewhat here, as on Sunday, whilst suspecting cellulitis was the cause of my wife’s malaise (she’d experienced this condition previously, about, three years ago), we weren’t quite completely certain, and besides, I want to get back to the narrative and tell you more about the three pubs we visited.

Upon reaching Tunbridge Wells, we headed to the south of the town and the area next to the former Tunbridge Wells West station. The site is occupied by a large Sainsbury’s superstore at one end, and by branches of both Lidl and Homebase at the other, and it was the latter shops that we called in at. For the record though, Tunbridge Wells West station still stands, with the large, former booking hall and waiting rooms, surmounted by an impressive clock tower, now home to a Smith & Western, "cowboy-inspired" restaurant, alongside a small hotel.

The Spa Valley Railway, now operate a heritage service of mixed steam and diesel trains along the former BR branch-line to Eridge, and it was the latter station we were heading for, by car though, rather than by rail. The line to Eridge, formerly connected the West station with Tunbridge Wells Central, although following the removal of the rail link, the “central” suffix has been dropped. The line itself closed pretty late in the general scheme of things, after having survived the notorious Beeching cuts of the mid-1960’s, by some 20 years or so.

It was a useful diversionary route, so its cull by the notoriously anti-railway government of Margaret Thatcher, was both unjustified, unnecessary, and almost certainly was driven by the redevelopment potential of the large goods yard and train depot, next to the West Station. As mentioned earlier, the former west yard was snapped up by Sainsbury’s, with the large area of adjacent flat ground forming an ideal car park.

Since those dark days of 1985, the heritage enthusiasts of the SVR have managed to reopen the former line in stages, initially to Groombridge and then eventually to Eridge, where it connects with the Southern mainline to Uckfield. I am mentioning the SVR primarily because their preserved railway line crops up several times in this narrative. Also, as mentioned earlier, it was Eridge we were heading for, in order to visit the Huntsman pub, next to the station.

This former King & Barnes pub, is now a free-house, having been sold on by Dorset brewers, Hall & Woodhouse, who took over, and the closed the much, lamented K & B Brewery, in Horsham, back in the early 2000’s. I’ve soft spot for the Huntsman, which probably dates back to the last time I travelled from Tonbridge to Eridge, on a British Rail train. This would have been shortly before the line closed in the mid 80’s.

I’ve only returned to the Huntsman on a handful of occasions since then, although I’ve been meaning to revisit for quite some time. The last time I set foot in the pub, was on a return from a winter ales festival, held at the Coopers Arms in Crowborough, but prior to that Matthew and I had visited the Huntsman a decade or so previously. On that occasion we were in the company of friends from West Kent CAMRA, and the visit followed on from a ride on the Spa Valley Railway. We enjoyed a decent lunch at the pub, along with some equally fine Badger ales, before walking across country to the picturesque Crown Inn, overlooking the green at neighbouring Groombridge.

This time we headed south from Tunbridge Wells, before turning off the busy A26 road at the bottom of a valley. We then followed the road for a short distance past Eridge station and parked the car. As we walked along to pub, we could see across to the sunken garden at the side of the pub. It seemed deserted, which set alarm bells ringing, and when we reached the entrance, there was no sign of life and just a rather ominous notice on the door.

“Sorry, we are unable to open the pub today, due to a power outage,” or words to that effect, which meant my second attempt, this year, to visit the Huntsman, ended in failure. "Never mind,” I said to Matthew, we can visit the High Rocks instead. Returning to the car, we followed the narrow road from the pub, in a roughly westerly direction, whilst keeping an eye out for a turning on the right, to the High Rocks.

We didn’t see one, and not long after, ended up in Groombridge. We could have stopped at the aforementioned Crown, but parking can be a little tricky there, so we continued up the hill towards Tunbridge Wells, through Langton, and the edge of Rusthall. Plan C was to call in at the Beacon situated along the quaintly named Tea Garden Lane. It must be a decade or more since I last set foot in the Beacon, but back in the day it was a favourite watering hole for local CAMRA members, due to it stocking the then, rather rare, Timothy Taylor’s Landlord.

A lot can change in 10 years, or even in four, because the pub was last surveyed by the local CAMRA branch in January 2019, but since that time the Beacon appears to have morphed into a very upmarket, wedding venue. It was all very pleasant, but the place is no longer a pub catering to the casual drinker. We walked up the steps leading to the terrace bar, passing through what looked like the reception area, as the Beacon now offers accommodation.

At the bar, we directed through to the terrace, by a member of the waiting staff. I said that we only wanted a drink, to which the reply was, “That’s fine, I will bring you the drinks menu.” This duly arrived, but it seemed to be wine only. When I mentioned the Beacon’s former reputation for “real ale,” the young man gave me a look that straight away said he didn’t have a clue what I was talking about. “It it’s beer you want, we do have Coors,” he said, with a faint hint of expectation in his voice.

I politely declined his offer and told him we’d be heading elsewhere.  This was a shame, as the view from the Beacon’s terrace was stunning, with vistas right across what is known locally as "Happy Valley," and it is this natural feature through which the Tunbridge Wells- Eridge line runs – (Spa Valley Railway!). As if to illustrate the point, we heard the whistle of a steam train as it passed through the wooded course of the River Grom below us.

I called this piece, "third time lucky," and indeed we both were when we made our way to the third hostelry of the afternoon. However, despite the title of this post, I shall have to leave describing the “lucky” third pub, until next time, as I’ve waffled on rather too long with this one. To be continued.

Footnote: It appears that a communication problem was responsible for the perceived “no beer” situation at the Beacon, as following the post, a friend phoned the Beacon and was told, by the manager, that they currently have on two Cellar Head keg beers, English Pilsner, and Session IPA, plus a few of their "lovely" bottles.

I also discovered that the “drinks menu” given to Matthew and I, was a photocopy of just one side of the menu, and was missing the bulk of the information relating to the snacks, charcuterie, lunch, cocktail and the "Draught.” The latter, of course was the beer. So full apologies to the Beacon, even though this mix-up could easily have been avoided.

Further details can be found in the extensive correspondence between Stafford Paul and me in the comments section.

No More "Disgusted - Tunbridge Wells". Pt. Three

Royal Oak - well worth making a detour to visit

Looking back at previous posts I realised I have yet to finish my series on the pubs of Tunbridge Wells. So without further ado, here is the third and final part. We will be starting from the same place as last time; namely the town’s railway station.

The main focus of attention for this post is the Pantiles area of Tunbridge Wells; the historic area around the Chalybeate Spring from where the town gets its name and from where the town originally grew and expanded out from. However, before heading down the High Street towards the Pantiles, there is a pub, slightly off the beaten track which we need to visit first.

The Royal Oak is an attractive pub which stands on the crossroads of Prospect Road and Calverley Road. It is well worth the 10 minute hike up the hill from the station to reach this tardis-like Victorian era pub with its island bar, secluded areas and comfortable seating, as not only does it offer an excellent range of interesting beers, but it is also quite quirky in nature with a character all of its own. The Royal Oak is ably run by Yvonne, who is also a fully qualified chef. As well as the excellent beer, the Oak regularly stages live music evenings featuring local bands and musicians. Another feature is the popular"film afternoons", which normally take place on a Sunday.

Sundial - King Charles the Martyr

Harvey’s Best is the regular beer, but Yvonne often has beers on from the likes of Larkins, Dark Star, Whitstable, Turners and various other brews drawn from either  Kent or neighbouring Sussex. Traditional ciders from Biddenden or Dudda's Tun, are also available.  Mini-beer festivals, often complemented by live acts, are another feature well worth looking out for and another good reason to visit the pub.

From the Royal Oak, head back down towards the station and then turn left and continue along the High Street. Alternatively, if you are feeling confident try your luck at navigating through the maze of narrow, but rather charming back streets which make up the “Village” area of Tunbridge Wells. Either way we are making for the Pantiles, and if you follow  these routes downhill you will reach this historic part of the town. On your way down, take some time out to look at the Church of King Charles the Martyr; the town’s oldest church and also the oldest permanent structure in Tunbridge Wells. It is the only church in the country to be named after  the hapless Charles Stuart , who of course least his head following defeat in the English Civil War.

Pantiles on a summer's evening

Formerly known as The Walks and the (Royal) Parade, The Pantiles is a Georgian colonnade which leads along from the well that gave the town its name. The area was created following the discovery of a chalybeate spring in the early 17th century and is now a popular tourist attraction. The Pantiles today includes a variety of specialist shops, art galleries, cafés, restaurants and bars.

The first pub you will come to is the Ragged Trousers; a former shop which only became a pub in 2006. Housed in one of the historic colonnaded building which line the upper side of the Pantiles Walk, the “Trousers” is a long narrow building with an entrance at both ends. Majoring on well-kept cask-ale, the pub is a keen supporter of the South Downs based Long Man Brewery, but also regularly features local legend Larkins. 

The Ragged Trousers

The pub is really popular and can get very crowded, particularly at weekends. During the summer months it is nice to sit outside, under the veranda-like colonnade which runs the length of the parade of shops and businesses; indeed I can think of few better places in Tunbridge Wells to enjoy a beer or two, with friends, on a warm summer’s evening.

Almost opposite the Ragged Trousers is the Duke of York. Now owned by Fullers, this former Whitbread pub is an attractive Grade Two-listed building which fronts onto the square at the centre of the Pantiles. Quite a small pub, with an “L” shaped bar and a bright and airy feel, the Duke of York is a good place to enjoy a few of the rarer beers from Fullers, and is also a good place to generally watch the world go by. If you want to get up right close to the action going on outside, then there is plenty of outdoor seating; a feature which is useful when the pub gets really busy.

Duke of York

In the centre of the aforementioned square, and overlooked by the Duke of York, is one of the newest drinking establishments in Tunbridge Wells. Housed in the former South East England Tourist Information Office, Sankey’s  Champagne & Seafood Bar is not strictly a pub, but is nevertheless a welcome addition to the local drinking scene. Said to be based on traditional London-style Oyster bars, the bar features marble table tops and antique hanging lights. Drink takes the form of Champagne and wines by the glass, and food is defined by the finest lobsters, crabs and fresh wet fish. I haven’t visited myself, as I’m not a fan of champagne or oysters, although I am rather partial to crab.However, it is easy to see in to Sankey's through the large, plain glass picture windows, and the punters inside all seem to be enjoying themselves.

Sankey's Champagne & Seafood Bar

It’s a short walk around the corner to the Pantiles Tap, the penultimate pub on this tour, and although the newest one in terms of opening, probably one of the oldest in relation to its age. Sited in the former beer cellars of what was reputed to be Tunbridge Wells’s oldest hotel "The Gloster Tavern" , the Pantiles Tap is partly underground, and with its stripped-back, bare-brick walls, tiled floors and old original fireplaces, reminds me of a couple of pubs in Prague.

Despite some on-line research, I have been unable to discover anything about the Gloster Hotel; particularly when  it closed and why, but as the buildings above the cellars appear much more modern, I would imagine this subterranean section is all that remains of the original hotel. Last year, the Grade Two-listed cellars were turned into the current pub by Geoff Wentworth and his partner Jo, with the “Tap” opening for business late in November 2014. It appears to be doing well, with 6 cask lines, 6 keg lines and 2 ciders, to tempt local drinkers and beer enthusiasts, and is another welcome addition to the local beer scene.

Interior - Pantiles Tap

The final pub on the Pantiles is the Sussex Arms, tucked away down Sussex Mews behind the local auction house. I have written before about this once legendary pub, which thanks to its former licensees, Dennis and Barbara Lane, had a unique character all of its own.  Indeed up until 1987, when the Lane’s left the pub, no visit to Tunbridge Wells was complete without popping into the "Sussex Shades" as it was known locally.

The Sussex was a freehouse in the true sense of the word. Along with a variety of different beers, Harvey’s PA was always available, together with XXXX Old Ale in winter. During such times, a welcoming coal fire was kept burning in the grate. The pub wasn't a classic so far as architecture was concerned, although it did date back to the 17th Century. It was furnished with artefacts purchased from the nearby auction rooms; the collection of chamber pots was legendary. So too were the number of locks on the front door - alleged to number 27 in total!


In 1987 the Pantiles area was earmarked by the local council for what amounted to "gentrification", and with the redevelopment work going on all around them, Dennis and Barbara decided to call it a day, and sold up in the autumn of that year. The Sussex ended up by being completely gutted, and turned into a trendy pub aimed at the youth market. Plans for it to brew its own beer came to nothing, and eventually the pub was sold to Greene King. The area immediately surrounding the pub was opened up, and it is now no longer "tucked away" in the way it once was. Back in December 2012, I posted about the Sussex Arms, in some detail, here.

Sussex Arms

The re-developed Sussex has definitely mellowed over the last quarter of a century, and today the pub has a pleasant, covered outdoor drinking area, plus a rarely used basement function bar, reached via some rather steep stairs.  The toilets are down here as well.  The ground floor has a large U-shaped bar with a games area to the right. The latter includes a rare bar billiards table. The combination of three open fires and traditional wooden flooring makes for a very cosy feel in the winter months. The beer choice is from Greene King, plus a number of regularly changing guest ales, which typically include offerings from breweries such as Long Man or Ramsgate.

This is effectively the end of the tour, but a quick mention should be made of the Grey Lady Music Lounge, which is right at the far end of the Pantiles. If you’re a music fan, then this establishment offers jazz, blues and other music genres from top class professionals in attractive and interesting surroundings.I can't vouch for the place personally, but my wife has been there a couple of times and enjoyed both the food and the music.